Just put my 27.5 x 3.0 back on my 2018 Fuse this morning and will ride at some point this weekend. I have been running 29 2.3 Fast Tracks and with 1,500 miles on them, they are pretty worn down and need to be replaced soon.

For those still wondering, and its been mentioned by others here, this bike in 29er mode is fantastic. If you can pick up a set of wheels, its great to have the option of swapping back and forth.

 

New 2020 Fuse Expert Alloy (29 2.8) vs New Fuse 2018 Comp Carbon (27 5 3.0)?

Just put my 27.5 x 3.0 back on my 2018 Fuse this morning and will ride at some point this weekend. I have been running 29 2.3 Fast Tracks and with 1,500 miles on them, they are pretty worn down and need to be replaced soon.

For those still wondering, and its been mentioned by others here, this bike in 29er mode is fantastic. If you can pick up a set of wheels, its great to have the option of swapping back and forth.

Can get either of these bikes for around 2200. I am a 60 year old road bike cyclist transitioning to some recreational trail riding in local state parks (forested, rolling, some roots and rocks, not much technical stuff). Think I will like the bigger tires in terms of comfort and traction (and the carbon frame, which I have for my road bike), but if Specialized in 2020 is moving towards the 29/2.8 with advanced geo maybe that is the way to go. Would definitely like to test out the 29 vs 27 5 options before buying (which I will probably do), but for now there is obviously a slowdown for such things (and the 2020 expert is also currently out of stock). Anyway, in the meantime I thought I would solicit some advice from experienced riders/fuse owners on this thread-thanks-

 

Rear tire clearance, early Fuse alloy vs. Fuse carbon frames: does the carbon frame have less, more, or about the same rear tire clearance?

I ride '16 Fuse alloy w/29 x 2.6 Bontrager XR2 (like Chupacabra) on carbon rim 36mm wide ID. Rear tire clearance is slightly lacking.

29 x Wide Trail (about 2.4 to 2.8) is my all time favorite tire/wheel size.

Remember circa 2010, all the hoopla searching for frames w/clearance for the widest 650b tires? The contest winner was whomever posted the most clearance for a 650b x 2.4 or 2.5. Members would have traded a small body part (someone else's) for a frame w/clearance for 650b x 2.6.

Now a complete 27.5 x 3.0 bike is $1500...And 29 x 2.6 is the new thang...

 

I'm using the same tire on my S-Works carbon Fuse and there is re 2-3mm clearance. Tight!!!!

 

Your mud photo album is lacking, yes? LOL

 

I don't take this bike anywhere near mud!!!

 

Appreciate the detailed info. Definitely seems that the 29 (2.3) is the best overall choice in your experience, especially for handling. That helps a lot —thanks—

 

I posted here a couple of times already about the Fuse Comp I got in March, but I've been riding almost every day and really love this bike. I've ridden close to 1,200 miles gotten a lot faster and lost almost 20 pounds.

So far I've had to refill the tubeless tires with sealant after the rear tire developed a slow leak (a great way to experiment with tire pressure without even having to get off your bike!), switched back to clipless, got new shoes, and replaced the stock Stout crank and bottom bracket with SRAM SX Eagle Crank with 32 tooth ring and a SRAM DUB Bottom Bracket. On the stock crankset, the non-drive crank arm would come loose from the spindle and make terrible creaking sounds. The only way to fix it was to put lock tite in there to hold it all together (not an ideal solution).

 

I posted here a couple of times already about the Fuse Comp I got in March, but I've been riding almost every day and really love this bike. I've ridden close to 1,200 miles gotten a lot faster and lost almost 20 pounds.

So far I've had to refill the tubeless tires with sealant after the rear tire developed a slow leak (a great way to experiment with tire pressure without even having to get off your bike!), switched back to clipless, got new shoes, and replaced the stock Stout crank and bottom bracket with SRAM SX Eagle Crank with 32 tooth ring and a SRAM DUB Bottom Bracket. On the stock crankset, the non-drive crank arm would come loose from the spindle and make terrible creaking sounds. The only way to fix it was to put lock tite in there to hold it all together (not an ideal solution).

Good on ya man! Sounds like you are having a blast.

I'm also considering going back to clipless for a while, mostly for the summer months where I am just pounding out desert XC miles.

 

Took my Fuse out for some bikepacking this past weekend.

It was quite wet and foggy on Friday for the ride out. Got the tent set up in the rain.

Fully loaded with the bags. My backpack (not pictured) had my food and change of clothes.

The next morning was rewarding with beautiful views.....

Another morning view of my campsite.

 

I'm going to need to replace my tires soon on my fuse. Currently still has the original tires on it - 27.5x3.0. It seems like the current trend is a little skinnier and taller - like 29x2.6 or so. Will that size fit my Fuse? Any particular recommendations?

I suppose I should have clarified, if I was ever going to change out my rims, now would be the time, that's why I was asking

 

I've gone smaller to 27.5x2.8 tires at one point, didn't enjoy them due to drop in BB but more importantly the loss of that plush feeling, and to some extent traction. I doubt going to 29x2.6 would result in the same ride 27.5x3.0 provides.

I started with purgatory/ground control combo. Tried the Nobby Nic front (hated it). I've settled for now on a rocket ron 3.0 rear and Maxxis high roller II 3.0 front. Carbon wheels really helped lighten the bike, may have lost a little compliance/traction, but improved that feeling of tires rolling over when cornered hard the alu rims had. Hasn't slowed me down any though.

I've definitely read about people going to 29 and liking it, and of the 29ers a 2.6 would be the closest to what you have now. I've also read about guys going 29, then going back to 27.5 because of the stiffer ride and loss of plush.

YMMV

 

I went 29er, 2.5 front Minion, 2.6 Rekon rear. More pedal clearance, more traction, rolls a little faster. May ride a little harsher- doesn't bother me. Thinking of trying a little narrower.

 

Currently running 29 x 2.4 Ardent front and 29 x 2.2 Ikon rear. This set up rolls slower then my Fast Track 29 x 2.3 front / rear. I will be going back to that after I wear down these tires.

 

Also - bike going in to shop this week for new cassette, chain, brake bleed and tune. I considered going to GX Eagle drive train, but decided just to replace the worn out 11 speed bits.

What have you all done with your drive trains? Mine came stock with GX 11speed and with a 28t on the front. I should bump that to a 30t.

 

Also - bike going in to shop this week for new cassette, chain, brake bleed and tune. I considered going to GX Eagle drive train, but decided just to replace the worn out 11 speed bits.

What have you all done with your drive trains? Mine came stock with GX 11speed and with a 28t on the front. I should bump that to a 30t.

I have GX 11 speed on mine too. Very, very happy with it. It's durable, and I don't want the weight of 12 speed cassette.

I like my 28t on front. I like having the low gearing, and don't mind topping out when going 'fast'. Bias towards low gearing is much more valuable to me than high.

 

I'm still running the stock SunRace 10 spd cassette (11-40) with a 32T chainring up front. Somehow this still hurts on steep climbs, yet spins out when going for V-max

 

2016 Fuse Expert, replaced the GX 10 sp drivetrain to 11 sp XT. 30 upfront and 46 low on the Sunrace cassette, loving that extra gear. In general, I think the shifting is better with the XT.

 

Since we’re talking tires, mine came with 3.0 Specialized Purgatory. I have no complaints at all. I really like them.

I’m sure I’ll wear them out eventually, so the question is—is there something better I should try? Or stick with with what I know works (Purgatory 3.0)? What do you think of Ground Control 3.0?

My daily ride is 23 miles or so. 10 on the pavement to get there and back, and 13 miles sandy singletrack with a few rooty pine forest sections, and several short, steep climbs and descents.


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Since we're talking tires, mine came with 3.0 Specialized Purgatory. I have no complaints at all. I really like them.

I'm sure I'll wear them out eventually, so the question is-is there something better I should try? Or stick with with what I know works (Purgatory 3.0)? What do you think of Ground Control 3.0?

I have Purgatory up front and Ground Control at the back. This works pretty well, more aggressive front and lower rolling resistance rear. The noise on pavement is interesting as the tread distancing is different from pattern to pattern, my boys think my bike is louder than a car when I'm following them

 

It's a shame they discontinued them but the WTB Trail Boss 27.5 x 3.0 Light Fast Rolling is a surprisingly good tire. They are quite heavy but somehow they roll very well while offering great traction on a wide variety of surfaces and are quite durable. I have mine mounted to 35mm internal rims. If you can still find some I would highly recommend them.

 

Hi All, on the topic of drive trains, I am looking into changing the cranks at the same time as the bottom bracket (2016 fuse).

The stout xc cranks have quite a large spacer between the bottom bracket and the crank arm (13mm of so on the non drive train side)

When changing the cranks what fills this gap on the spindle of the new cranks? or is it simply that new cranks have a shorter spindle?

 

Almost 3yrs now on the fuse, the only change that was made was to rotor cranks due to my wife’s nx cranks failing, so I swapped the turbines over to her monkey to get a lower Q factor. The 2yo is now 5 of course and is ripping it up on her own.

 

Fuse frame design was way and still is ahead of it's time. After 4 years the chain stays are still shorter than anything that's come since.

A few years prior to Fuse, several threads here rabidly plead for ever wider and lower pressure 650b rims and tires, dumpster diving for old rare frames (with awful geometry) that would accept those tires/wheels, etc. 2.4-2.5 rim/tire width combination was considered the holy grail.

If you had posted images of a Fuse back then, enthusiasts would barely believe their eyes: 650b x 3.00, 15 PSI, split ultra-short chain stay, modern geometry everywhere, stock dropper post, killer 11 speed, etc.

Now that Fuse is another mass market commodity, it's as easy as it is wrong to lose track of what a big deal this frame is and was when it splashed on the scene. It's cool when a yuge, mass market company like Specialized knocks it out of the park, as is the case with Fuse. Good on Specialized.

 

I was hoping to get some recommendations on replacing the crankset on a 2017 Fuse Comp in size Large. I read through this thread, but unfortunately many of the links to products are now a few years old and don't work.

The goal is to upgrade the components and reduce some weight if possible while keeping the same (or similar) gear ratios. I'd like to keep this repair/upgrade between $250-$550 if possible. (I plan on doing the repairs myself.)

Here are the specs from Specialized's website.

REAR DERAILLEUR	SRAM NX, long cage, 11-speed
SHIFT LEVERS	SRAM NX, 11-speed, trigger
CASSETTE	SRAM PG-1130, 11-speed, 11-42t
CHAIN	SRAM PC-1130, 11-speed w/PowerLink
CRANKSET	Specialized Stout XC, forged alloy, 30mm Cr-Mo spindle, 76mm BCD spider
CHAINRINGS	28T
BOTTOM BRACKET	BB30, sealed cartridge bearings

 

Aloha Lewal,

Sorry I'm late to the party. I'm just now seeing this. Been busy and haven't logged in a while.

Here's the set up I have on my Fuse. I think it's the same year.

I'm using a Race Face Turbine crankset with the 30 mm Cinch. Stock (none fat, normal MTB spindle length). My one big gripe with the Fuse is the chainstay can't clear the chain for smaller chainrings.

Here's the spacer set up. None-drive to drive side:
Cane Creek preload adjuster
2.5 mm spacer
12.0 mm spacer

15.25 mm spacer.

Another view of the spindle with the spacers on it. I hope this helps.

 

I got a SRAM SX Eagle crankset (32) to replace the crappy Stout cranks that came with it. The stock crank had an issue where the left crank arm would come loose from the spindle.

I know SX isn't high end but I wanted to keep the cost below $100 and it's got to be better than what I had.

I also replaced the stock BB with a SRAM PF 30 DUB unit. The reason I replaced the BB is because I didn't realize the crankset I bought wasn't compatible with the stock BB. I did the work myself and I'm no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. It's been almost a year and over 3,500 miles and everything is still spinning smoothly and quietly.

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I got a SRAM SX Eagle crankset (32) to replace the crappy Stout cranks that came with it. The stock crank had an issue where the left crank arm would come loose from the spindle.

I know SX isn't high end but I wanted to keep the cost below $100 and it's got to be better than what I had.

I also replaced the stock BB with a SRAM PF 30 DUB unit. I did the work myself and I'm no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination.

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That's great info. Thanks. Is there a specific reason you went with the "DUB" version?

 

Need new rear wheel/hub

I have a 2016 Fuse and need to replace the rear WTB scraper rim and stout hub. Currently running 27.5+ x 2.8 fast traks. Any recommendation for rear wheel/hub? Dont need carbon. Im in Texas. Suggestions/links to purchase greatly appreciated.

 

I have a 2016 Fuse and need to replace the rear WTB scraper rim and stout hub. Currently running 27.5+ x 2.8 fast traks. Any recommendation for rear wheel/hub? Dont need carbon. Im in Texas. Suggestions/links to purchase greatly appreciated.

Why do you need to replace it? I'm just curious because I had to replace mine last year (also a 2016) because the rim was cracked around some spokes. Ended up finding a set of take-offs but had to buy both rims so I guess I have a spare now.

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The hub is messed up. Bike guy told me it would be cheaper to buy a new wheel than try to fix/replace hub in existing.

 

Agreed, especially since the hub is a 28 hole and it seems like the newer stuff typically runs 32. Hopefully others on here can proved some help and please post what you finally do. I'm going to have to upgrade eventually. [emoji846]

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Chainring Help!

Hi all, I need some help with identifying my chain ring standard. I have a 2018 fuse comp with specialized stock Stout cranks and 28t DM ring. Cranks were replaced as part of recall. Back of the ring has three bolts and teeth, looks like SRAM standard. I asked specialized and they said Cinch but Cinch has no bolts to my knowledge.

I want to out on a OneUp Oval but the one up SRAM switch the shape of the teeth is not squared off like line or like a SRAM ring. (Absolute Black looks line OneUp). Attached a bad photo of my setup and the different tooth Charles

Please help!

 

Gaspo08 - The interface standard you want is "Direct Mount for SRAM", and 3mm offset if you're Boost, which I think you are.

FYI, I believe the vast majority of "Direct Mount" is for SRAM but I've seen some random cases where chainring is labeled "Direct Mount" but doesn't have the three bolts like SRAM does.

Curious... did you ask a Specialized bike shop or their email customer service?

 

Thanks, I asked Spesh customer service. Why does the interface look different in the ovals from the eagle ring I wonder