Awesome bike. Looking hard at the Rovals myself.
Probably transform the bike.

 

Tyrich88 - may I inquire what is your height? Need to decide on frame size. Leaning towards medium at 5' 6.5".

Thanks in advance!

 

I'm 5'8 with stumpy little legs (as can be noticed from my seat height).
This is a medium and fits me well. I could have also gone with a small and been just fine with a 90mm stem or so.

At your height, i would probably say go with a small. I'm on the very bottom end of what i would recommend for a medium. You get a lot more possibility of adjustment with a smaller frame.
I have just ridden mediums for a long time so i have my positioning down.

 

And now for my next trick...

27.5 x 2.8

Front is obviously dependent on the forks, so lots of room there.
The rear just had enough room to fit a Schwalbe Nobby Nic (new addix). Don't think I would actually run it with that little clearance. Other tires may vary of course.

 

And now for my next trick...

27.5 x 2.8

Front is obviously dependent on the forks, so lots of room there.
The rear just had enough room to fit a Schwalbe Nobby Nic (new addix). Don't think I would actually run it with that little clearance. Other tires may vary of course.

View attachment 1154681 View attachment 1154682 View attachment 1154683

I have some 27.5 wheels coming. It looks like a 2.8 Rocket Ron will fit with room. Does that sound reasonable?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

Makes me feel dumb for having bought a Epic HT Di2. My frame costs almost as much as that build. It's like organic free range eggs compared to 45 cent a dozen

 

Go ride one of these. If you have the left over cash, go buy a frameset and try it out. I am in love with my chisel already. Might be fun to swap all your di2 and other bits from your epic ht if you like it enough! Or just do a complete build and have a back up or training bike thats aluminum. This thing is phenomenal.

 

Stock the xl comes with a long stem - 100 or 110 from memory and without looking. I'm tempted to try a 70 or so.

I can't say I've noticed much flex in the xl frame though. However, I do know that riding with a buddy who I am slight quicker at on our road bikes, he is faster than me on his custom build on-one 29er with carbon frame and lighter Hope wheels. I suspect it is the wheels that slow me down.

 

Ive got a 70 on my XL. Unless someone had complete monkey arms or was 6'7" the 100/110 would be very long.

Glad to hear your comment about flex too. I rode yesterday and did not feel the same thing I did on Sunday, different trail though.

 

Going with I9 Ultralites and XT 11spd. Ill probably use 2.2 Icons which arent the lightest but ive been extremely happy with them on my other hardtail

 

I went with some good parts that are decently light and i know will hold up. My tires are 2.3 fast traks and they're great tires, not the lightest, but the volume is great to have.

 

So the 2018 Expert level comes with the regular 22mm IW Control Carbon wheels, not SL 2017, not older SL.
~$1,200 w/DT Swiss 350 internals, 1,580gr.

I think this is the compromise I may have to make, unless I can't get them for some reason. Is the extra 3mm IW that noticeable? The regular Control carbons also do a 32H/32H as well, I think.

 

The expert level chisel does not come with carbon wheels. It comes with aluminum wheels and crappy hubs. The wheels weight almost 2000g.

The expert level epic and epic HT come with carbon rims and the same crappy hubs on the aluminum chisel wheels.

The pro level epic and epic HT come with DT 350 hubs.

Upgrading to those $1200 control carbons with dt 350 hubs would be a great idea, but they ride noticeably different (nowhere near as good) and they are not sold in boost configuration currently.

The boost configuration combined with the new rim profile of these control SLs is a very noticeable improvement over the previous versions of carbon wheels from Roval.

 

In terms of upgrades, what would you guys recommend for a new sub $1000 wheel set and tires?

I ride with the wife a lot. Casual paved towpaths, hardpack, light duty stuff. Just want the best bang for the buck weight savings.

Was thinking for wheels crest mk3's or American classic racing. I can't find anything else in the $600-$800 range at 1400g-1600g. For tires ikons 2.2 3c/tr at 580g each.

SRAM X1 or xx1 cassette.

 

In terms of upgrades, what would you guys recommend for a new sub $1000 wheel set and tires?

I ride with the wife a lot. Casual paved towpaths, hardpack, light duty stuff. Just want the best bang for the buck weight savings.

Was thinking for wheels crest mk3's or American classic racing. I can't find anything else in the $600-$800 range at 1400g-1600g. For tires ikons 2.2 3c/tr at 580g each.

SRAM X1 or xx1 cassette.

in my experience the crests are too flexy, but i'm 175lbs.
I personally am a roval fan. I like their aluminum and carbon wheels.
I've heard american classic wide lightening wheels are pretty awesome.

 

I'm 165lbs and the Crests were too flexy with even light duty. They're on the wife's hard tail now.

 

Avoid Crest wheels if you can. I have had two front wheels taco in fast but not sharp turns. Agree with COMTBR with the flex issue also. I am in the market for wheels for my Chisel and am enjoying the process but not going with Stan's this time.

 

Being 215lbs, I have never even attempted to ride Crests. LOL
However, don't give up on Stans. I have used custom built Flows in the past and now have a set of Stans built Arch MK3s. Never had an issue with any Stans rims.
I got the 6 pawl freehub for my current set and they are fantastic.
I realize they may be heavier than you want, but Im sure you can build them lighter with some 240s.

 

I have been looking at the Arch wheels.

 

My Arch wheels are factory from Stans with the NEO hubs. Upgraded to the 6 pawl XD driver. Weight with tape and vavles is 1750 for the pair (no rotors or cassette obviously).

These also served as my part time wheel set on my Hightower when I wanted to go 29er. Plenty strong and stiff to take the beating of more aggressive trail riding. Maybe a little overkill for XC? Again, at 215 Ill take what I can get. The price was right as well...even at retail they are a great wheel set.

I love the Roval stuff, but unless you are looking to spend $1200+ these would be a good alternative.

 

Some mavic wheels might not be a bad way to go either.

But like i said above, i've had some good luck with every pair of roval wheels i've owned thus far.

 

I've swapped the standard 110 stem off my XL and replaced with a 75mm. Only ridden around the driveway but it is transformed, feels way more comfortable and snappy.

 

Test rode a Chisel on Saturday. Felt extremely nice but not "gotta have it now" nice compared to my "vintage" GT Xizang TI. Also, test rode a Camber and... wow. The full suspension seed got planted. I think i need to expand my experiences and get a FS. Thanks for all the info... currently researching Santa Cruz Bronson Carbon 650.

 

You might try the new full suspension Epic as well. It's pretty outstanding.

 

The Chisel is a simple knock around bike in its origin. You can, with your own parts, make it quite special as others have profiled here. But to compare it with dual suspension bikes seems a stretch. I have two full suspension 29er Specialized bikes along with my Chisel--- I ride the three of them for three very separate and not comparable circumstances. My own little thesis is that for us people wanting a simple hardtail the Chisel is a better bike than the former SJ hardtail 29er, the lower end model of course.

 

I did MTB 25 years ago and stopped for soccer. Started back up 2 months ago on a Fuel EX8 29er to be forgiving of errors. It's a tank.

However, from my initial demo's of the Epic and Anthem X, I wanted a 2nd bike, an XC, that ascends a little better for my light workout days on less technical trails or greenways/gravel. I rode a bunch of cheaper Giant and Specialized XC bikes in the $500-900 range and then looked at the $1500 range of Fathom and Chisel. I didn't ride the Giant, by then I knew I wanted the Specialized and bought the Chisel after a demo.

I have platforms for my EX8 but for this I chose clipless which I've not had a problem getting used to. No falls yet from them. I've taken it on some of the more technical trails to learn better line choices and cornering technique. After a good 5 spills, where the back end slipped out (and I clipped out no problem) I'm a bit concerned about the weakness of the rear tire to hold on a corner OR my ability to corner well. Probably a bit of both, since a rear suspension masks poor choices and my 2.4" rear tubeless can corner anything it seems.

I am looking to replace the rear tire for a good XC roller that has some grippy side tread for cornering, and will practice weight shifting for cornering this week.

On one spill I bent the right Deore easy shifter lever. I bent it back, but it's not working 100% so I'll be replacing it with a Deore XT when the part comes in to match the derailleur which I also have on my Fuel. The Deore shifts OK, but also feels cheaply made. The gear changes seems to make a lot of noise before getting to cross-chaining almost like the front derailleur can't handle the 2x10 very well. This is NOT an issue at all on my EX8 which mostly has XT except for the Front D. which is an SLX. So I'll probably replace the front D soon. Why not go 1x10? I'll wait until I have 5 months training before making decisions on taking away my easy gears.

What I like about the Chisel is.. It ascends noticeably faster, snaps up to speed, is much lighter than my EX8, simpler bike w/no rear suspension or drop seat. But I'm less confident going DH and way less confident cornering, yet, I'm posting faster times on all but downhill segments my first 2 times out.
So the straight and uphills are gaining a lot of time (and I continue to get in better shape) but my heart-rate is noticeably lower on this bike. It's much more efficient.

The bottom line is between them (Full Suspension vs Hardtail): I fell like I can take on most anything on my EX8, but long ascents are a slog on low pressure 2.4" tubeless XR3 Experts. I won't say the Fuel is more "fun", I'd say I'm just more "daring/confident" on it. It eats up my mistakes and pays the bill for me. The Trek is a tank under me, but in a good way. It rolls well enough if the climbs aren't long or too steep. But the Chisel definitely feels like more "fun", as if it's a part of me, although I'm also more "anxious" on it DH and when cornering so far. I'm almost tempted to go clipless on the Fuel because of the ease.

Help me, please, with a rear tire choices? I like the speed of this Specialized Gripton 29x2.1, but want to corner with a little more grip, and not add weight in the bargain. You know, keep it XC, but aid in my cornering confidence.

 

Put the same tire as on the front -- 2.3 Fast Track.
Nothing wrong with running same size F and R. The Fast Track is a great tire; fast, light and reasonably durable.

In the Specialized brand, the Ground Control would be the next "more aggressive" tire, could also give that a try in the rear. (never liked them as a front tire though)

Or, why not but the XR3 that you like on the Chisel? Just do a 2.2 or 2.3.

 

Honestly, the fast trak is one of my absolute favorite tires.
What kind of pressures are you running? And are you running tubeless on the chisel as well?

I would recommend bumping up to a 2.3 fast trak though, it'll help with being able to run similar pressures to your trek and give some better compliance as well as tire volume for traction.

 

Pressures:
Currently the Chisel is tubed. I run 30 on gravel and was doing 25 on the MTB trail, but was concerned about a pinch flat.

I'd like to go tubeless. Maybe at the next Trek store class (free)
I'd like to learn more about setup and adjustments and annual maintenance. The good part is the Trek store (Cyclingspokenhere) adjusts breaks and shifters for the life of the bike, so I can mess with those and have them fix my errors if I go beyond my ability. The Chisel store (Allstarbikes, Cary NC) says they'll do it for a year.

On the Trek I roll at 30 on greenways/gravel and 23-25 on the trail. I've tried 18/20 on that bike but it feels too low for comfort.


I'll get the 2.3 fast trak then. I like the look of the tread. It seems like it would roll better than the Bontrager XR3 in the center tread which is rather bumpy.

As to the diff between the Bontrager XR3 Expert 29x2.4 and the Specialized Fast Track 29x2.1 the speeds on gravel are 13.5 vs 18 mph on flat road cruising, and downhill max has been 24.5 and 30 mph respectively.

How much speed will I lose going 2.1 -> 2.3? Seems like a very small difference in size, mostly dependent on the Fast Track center tread, yes?

 

Pressures:
Currently the Chisel is tubed. I run 30 on gravel and was doing 25 on the MTB trail, but was concerned about a pinch flat.

I'd like to go tubeless. Maybe at the next Trek store class (free)
I'd like to learn more about setup and adjustments and annual maintenance. The good part is the Trek store (Cyclingspokenhere) adjusts breaks and shifters for the life of the bike, so I can mess with those and have them fix my errors if I go beyond my ability. The Chisel store (Allstarbikes, Cary NC) says they'll do it for a year.

On the Trek I roll at 30 on greenways/gravel and 23-25 on the trail. I've tried 18/20 on that bike but it feels too low for comfort.

I'll get the 2.3 fast trak then. I like the look of the tread. It seems like it would roll better than the Bontrager XR3 in the center tread which is rather bumpy.

As to the diff between the Bontrager XR3 Expert 29x2.4 and the Specialized Fast Track 29x2.1 the speeds on gravel are 13.5 vs 18 mph on flat road cruising, and downhill max has been 24.5 and 30 mph respectively.

How much speed will I lose going 2.1 -> 2.3? Seems like a very small difference in size, mostly dependent on the Fast Track center tread, yes?

OK, thought at first I'd not share this but now I will. I did a duo 6 hour event with a 40 year old friend who is a Cat 3 roadie and former Cat 1 mtn. bike racer. He is a hyper active guy who is a rare case in that he is truly almost oblivious to the preciseness most have relating to bikes, weight, parts, etc. Got to the event and I had tamen my race bike and my Chisel. His Felt was ghost shifting and low and behold it had a bent chain link. So he rode the Chisel Expert stock/tubeless and produced the 5th best average lap times in the event. I was as usual mid fleet average with my times. How much speed do you lose with the stock bike and 2.3 tires? Evidently for recreational riders not much as that's where he generally places.

 

Or...

Should I go tubeless, work on cornering technique, and see where that gets me? I don't want to give up the feel on acceleration and climbing ease.

 

Dont change tires just yet.
Go tubeless first. It will significantly help the handling and traction abilities of the tire.
Then do some work in corners. It sounds like you're relying too much on the suspension to sink you into the corner. That's a useful skill, but you shouldn't be sliding out in corners. The fast traks are more than sufficient in that area.

Go tubeless. Mess with tire pressures (i am 175 and run mine around 22-23). and work on some cornering with the new set up. I bet all of it improves significantly with those changes.

 

Agree with Tyrich88 that the Fast Trak is a super tire, one of my favorites. I do like the Renegade too. You can tell a LOT of difference running them tubeless as the tire is simply softer at all pressures. I am 165 lbs and run my 2.3 Fast Trak's and 2.3 Renegades on the trail at 20 lbs. I ride several days a week and have not flatted or burped in about two years. I used to burp the smaller volume versions of both tires, but not the 2.3's.

 

Tubeless it is, thank you Tyrich88!

 

Recently picked up a chisel expert for my kid. That came with 2.3 fast track griptons front and rear, although somebody at spesh had a brain fart that day and put the rear on backwards. Haven't gotten around to flipping it yet, and my kid's not complaining about anything.

 

Btw,

I can't really Register the bike on the Specialized website because they don't have an option for "Chisel".

I did one anyway under "Epic Hardtail" since that was closest, but still. I emailed them about it, no response.

The store told me they did a national registry for theft purposes, and I assume Specialized keep records of purchases from these stores, but I'm also sure they look to get you if you have a frame issue and didn't technically "register" it.

 

On another note, I crashed and bent the Deore trigger on the right handlebar shifter. I hand bent it back to get off the trail. It works, but it's loose, bent in 2 directions and needs replacing.

I asked several shops about upgrades to a Deore XT and they said it's possible but no one yet can tell me what the part number is. They are confused by the i-shift aspect. Whether it's an i-shift A or B or whatever.

One store, REI said it would be THREE MONTHS to get the part in! Another shop I had them order it, they said it would be $70 (online it's half that, but ok) and when I walked in, wow, did they give me a hard time. They told me to drop it off Thur and when I showed up it was "What is this?" I said I'm dropping off a bike. They asked "Do you have an appointment?" and I said "I assume so, you told me to drop it off" and they look, see no workup sheet, check the order then say when the part comes in they can do it, might be the weekend, might be longer, because I don't have an appointment. On the phone they said it would be done in 2 days from dropoff Thur, but the walk-in tells me 3-5 days because I don't have an appointment.

I asked why 3+ days since they said on the phone it would be 2 at the latest, and the woman actually replied "How would I know, I'm not the shipper."

I walked right out of there. Wow. I figure I can fix my own bike with attitudes, costs, and unreliable shop info.

Any advice on where to learn about adjusting/installing the Shimano XT groupset that is on both my bikes (or will be)?

And how to figure out what part upgrades/replaces this Deore M160 to an XT on the Comp model? TIA.

 

As long as you find the shifter you need online, i would just order that one since your shops are being a pain.
If you want to PM me I can try to help out with how to adjust and install if you'd like.

Also, youtube is a wonderful place. There are sure to be some tutorials and such on there that can help.

 

I assume I can just leave the cable and reattach it to the internals of the new shifter (I hope)

But ok, once I figure out the correct part, I'll PM you if I run into trouble, thanks, man!

Most shops here are great. The one for my Trek is awesome. I just need to learn this on my own. I had setup issues with my other bike (ie the fork came with 160 psi after setting it up for my 175lbs and I quickly learned how to setup the suspension)