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Specialized Chisel discussion

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#1 ·
#2,309 ·
My NOS 2021 chisel size small

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2021 chisel SATIN SMOKE / GLOSS TARMAC BLACK
Small

1.RockShox SID SL Select Charger RL Suspension Fork - 29", 100 mm, 15 x 110 mm, 44 mm Offset

2. Bontrager Line Elite MTB Pedals
3. One Up 90mm V2 dropper post and remote

with the above it weighs 25.6lbs. That rs judy silver was a major boat anchor! Found this nos 21 base modeland grabbed it for the all shimano component. Got it for $1600. Super fun fast and nimble bike Compared to my 18 spesh enduro. Only three rides on it so far. The first was pre riding the mammoth pedaalpalooza xc course. Second ride was the race the following day! Solid solid bike!
 

Attachments

#2,333 · (Edited)
My NOS 2021 chisel size small

View attachment 2054116

2021 chisel SATIN SMOKE / GLOSS TARMAC BLACK
Small

1.RockShox SID SL Select Charger RL Suspension Fork - 29", 100 mm, 15 x 110 mm, 44 mm Offset

2. Bontrager Line Elite MTB Pedals
3. One Up 90mm V2 dropper post and remote

with the above it weighs 25.6lbs. That rs judy silver was a major boat anchor! Found this nos 21 base modeland grabbed it for the all shimano component. Got it for $1600. Super fun fast and nimble bike Compared to my 18 spesh enduro. Only three rides on it so far. The first was pre riding the mammoth pedaalpalooza xc course. Second ride was the race the following day! Solid solid bike!

Where did you find it? I found a NOS 2021 model but it's a comp and is therefore effectively $2,100.
 
#2,310 ·
Anyone having issues with the stout cranks coming loose? Just had to tighten them up for the second time yesterday. the threads on the aluminum cap were a bit wiped like it got over torqued or something. I was able to get it torqued to spec which is only 2-2.5nm (22 inlb). Well see if it holds if it keeps doing it ill probably replace them
 
#2,312 · (Edited)
I have a question regarding sizing. (I apologize in advance if this was already covered: it's a huge thread) Can I rely on Specialized's RetĂĽl guide for the current model Chisel? Although I am pretty sure I need a size small, Specialized's guide is recommending an XS.

Edit - I played around with the shin measurement and found that a +0.5 inches / +1.27 cm adjustment changed the results to MD... so I am not sure I can rely on this. In fact, now that I try yet again, I realize I cannot even purposefully make it recommend me a size S. But what I do know for a fact is that I am within the range for size S, per Specialized's basic size chart. Should I simply go by this chart?
 
#2,315 ·
Hi all,

I'm having the same problem as several guys from here with a clicking noise coming from the alloy split crown on my new Specialized Chisel 2023.
The bike was build with a Fox 34 2023 SC 100mm.

I want to change this crown with something better from Cane Creek 110-Series ... but I don't have any idea which one will work.

Could someone please give some advice ?

Many thanks,
Hi guys,
I have replaced the headset with ones from Cane Creek 110, and I still have that click noise.
It seems the click noise is coming from bottom cup where is presset into the frame, and not from crown race.
Could someome please help me what can I do in this case ?
Is there any special grease or product that could solve this noise and not damage the frame ?

Many thanks !
 
#2,316 · (Edited)
My Chisel has been prone to more creaks and clicks as well. I have the same click in mine and have tried everything. Does yours do it only when charging hard or going deeper in travel? How mine seems. I have tried different headsets as well, messing with paying extra attention to preload when setting stem, switched out everything cockpit wise but fork. No luck. Beginning to thing either my fork CSU is doing it or just the finish job on the lower headtube against the lower headset cup is not perfectly aligned all the way around.

Until I get around throwing another fork on just to rule that out, here my possible theory looking at the frame. My frame is a size medium, if you look at the backside of the headset cup, the spot where it presses against the frame, there is not much room between the flat spot of the bottom of the headtube and when the welds start for the downtube. Almost look like that particular part of the headset cup is not sitting as flush as if you look at the front of the headtube because the headtube seems not as smooth as the front side. Wonder if causing movement when you put lots of force riding hard between cup and frame at that spot. Wonder if the bigger frames have more room on the headtube bottom and when that weld starts stays more flush looking all the way around the headtube and not as prone to this clicking?
 
#2,317 ·
I had a similar sounding creak on another bike, and it was the CSU in the fork. Might be worth dripping a bit of loctite in there to see if that helps. It's a temporary solution, but if that fixes the creak then you've found the source. I don't remember the details on how to go about doing this, but you can probably find more details by searching for "CSU creak loctite" or something. Seems like an easy/inexpensive thing to test at home.
 
#2,320 ·
Got another question. I noticed that sizes below size M are still 29" rather than 27.5". Is there a reason other brands specify 27.5" for smaller frame sizes? Does it not make sense to ride a 29" bike if you're of short stature? I personally have nothing against either diameter, but I am wondering if 29ers are too much to handle for shorter riders. I've only ever ridden a 29er on pavement, but in that scenario it felt perfectly fine.
 
#2,322 ·
Frame geometry plays a big roll on how the bike handles on each frame size and with 29 wheels. IMO the Chisel is very well dialed (only issue being it does not have a mech to prevent handlebar hits, but AFAIK only two brands have that) and I am confident the small sizes ride very well with their large wheels. Yeah, other frames have issues sizing up and down. Join the fun. Get your Chisel!
 
#2,324 · (Edited)
Does anyone know if the hub on a current Chisel's stock rear wheel can be converted with a Micro Spline free hub body? My plan is to purchase a Chisel, but I'd prefer it have a full Shimano group set... and I also really do not want to change out the whole wheel set. I've heard that Specialized uses DT Swiss hubs, but that may only be for their higher end wheel sets. I'm suspecting the Chisel uses Formula hubs, per what I researched. Not sure if those are convertible.

The only alternative I could find is a Garbaruk 12-speed Shimano-compatible HG cassette, but that's 270 USD on its own. I could instead run an 11-speed Shimano cassette w/ a spacer, as that cassette uses the HG standard, but I'd first need to determine if that's enough range for me.
 
#2,328 ·
Noticed quite a few long seat posts on Chisels exposed - makes me think these are going with smaller size frames?

On XL I end up with 225mm seat post clamp to seat, does this look like the frame is too big for me? Understandably, there are other factors at play, so just from the sizing and proportions' point:

View attachment 2060163
Its just that the top tube drops significantly from the head tube. This is VERY good for standing clearance.
 
#2,329 ·
Does anyone know if the hub on a current Chisel's stock rear wheel can be converted with a Micro Spline free hub body? My plan is to purchase a Chisel, but I'd prefer it have a full Shimano group set... and I also really do not want to change out the whole wheel set. I've heard that Specialized uses DT Swiss hubs, but that may only be for their higher end wheel sets. I'm suspecting the Chisel uses Formula hubs, per what I researched. Not sure if those are convertible.

The only alternative I could find is a Garbaruk 12-speed Shimano-compatible HG cassette, but that's 270 USD on its own. I could instead run an 11-speed Shimano cassette w/ a spacer, as that cassette uses the HG standard, but I'd first need to determine if that's enough range for me.
My Chisel came with SLX-Deore. The original wheelset comes with a simple shimano hub. If I wanted a new Chisel and wanted it with all shimano (I like it better, much better brakes, just to name one element), I would either shop the second hand market for one with shimano drivetrain, or get a frame and build up.
 
#2,331 ·
What are your thoughts about 100 vs 120 mm travel? Has anyone tried both on the same chisel frame? How afects steering and angle?
I am wandering between the two. Used Raba 100, now running Fox 32 Float SC 100, Difference in the dampening feel is huge. I like the looks of the Sid more and am thinking for going 120. My personal perference is weight and speed, but now i se WC racers are going for 120mm. Is there a big difference?
 
#2,332 ·
I went from 100 to 120 and like the way the bikes rides better. It feels slightly more planted on the trail and did not seem to have any real negative effect on steering. If I recall it slackened the steering angle by about 0.8 degrees. If you are looking for a 120mm SID Select I have a new take off fork that I was going to use for another build that I decided to not go forward with. PM me if your interested.
 
#2,343 ·
Hey Question for chisel owners .

I am looking to buy a Chisel to have a light XC bike to compliment my Stumpy .

I found a good deal on FB marketplace for a 2021 , barley ridden but the guy put a rhythm 34 and isn’t sure how much travel the 34 has . I want to check out the bike . Two questions

Any quick way to determine travel by measuring the stanchions ? Not sure the 34 is at 130 , 140 or omg 150 . That wouldn’t be crazy .

What would you look for on the frame to ensure over forking it with a 34 didn’t compromise it ?
 
#2,344 ·
Hey Question for chisel owners .

I am looking to buy a Chisel to have a light XC bike to compliment my Stumpy .

I found a good deal on FB marketplace for a 2021 , barley ridden but the guy put a rhythm 34 and isn’t sure how much travel the 34 has . I want to check out the bike . Two questions

Any quick way to determine travel by measuring the stanchions ? Not sure the 34 is at 130 , 140 or omg 150 . That wouldn’t be crazy .

What would you look for on the frame to ensure over forking it with a 34 didn’t compromise it ?

You could purchase an air shaft assembly for 100mm or 110mm of travel, if you wish to reduce the travel. Alternatively, resell the fork and put the money towards something else (ex. Fox 32 SC). I do not know how to look for signs of stress in an over-forked bike, besides looking for obvious cracks by the head tube. If the bike was not ridden hard, I would not worry about it. As for determining the current travel of the fork, you can measure the exposed stanchion length and arrive at the answer, but just be careful if measuring with something sharp to not accidentally scrape or gouge the stanchion.
 
#2,348 ·
Noticed quite a few long seat posts on Chisels exposed - makes me think these are going with smaller size frames?

On XL I end up with 225mm seat post clamp to seat, does this look like the frame is too big for me? Understandably, there are other factors at play, so just from the sizing and proportions' point:

View attachment 2060163
Nah, I think you're fine, judging by the stem length. Some people just have longer legs in proportion to their height and need more exposed seatpost. I ran a ton of seatpost out on mine, but I was probably on a size too small.

I went from 100 to 120 and like the way the bikes rides better. It feels slightly more planted on the trail and did not seem to have any real negative effect on steering. If I recall it slackened the steering angle by about 0.8 degrees. If you are looking for a 120mm SID Select I have a new take off fork that I was going to use for another build that I decided to not go forward with. PM me if your interested.
Hah, I went from 120 to 100 and liked it better on the chisel, front end lift on climbs completely disappeared and I didn't think descending was any worse.
 
#2,352 · (Edited)
Well, I was afforded a lengthy test ride of a new Chisel (not Comp), size S, in both an urban setting and on paths and park space. My initial impressions are that I would definitely need to get used to the wheel size. I do love the smoothness of 29ers, but I am coming from 26ers and have to play catchup. By the way, it's worth mentioning I was riding on cheap test pedals that looked and felt quite vintage.

* The riding position was interesting. I felt very upright, legs suspended. I felt like I needed to get up out of the bike to get it going. And, this could be my bias, but I felt like 60mm is too short a stem even for the size S. Medium and up get a 70mm stem. Opposite, the 170mm crank arms were a surprise to me. On my old bikes, 170mm is the sweet spot, but on this bike the crank arms felt somewhat long. It's possible I had the seat a little too high, though. I notice size XS has 165mm cranks and I do wonder if I would switch to those if I was to buy the bike.

* The SRAM drive train was surprisingly quiet and smooth in shifting, but there was this weird sort of kickback feeling when I would abruptly stop pedaling. Also, it liked dropping at least one gear upon backpedaling. The rear hub is loud to an annoying degree. I appreciate the higher POE than what I am used to, but the noise got to me.

* The cockpit was fine, brakes are nothing special but they bite well. The handle bars are a little wide, at 750mm. Anything wider than 740mm seems too wide. The lock-on grips were awful, but I won't count those against the bike nor Specialized, because bikes don't usually come with amazing grips. The SX shifters felt nice and crisp and I liked the single direction up/down shifting and the multiple clicks allowed at once for downshifting.

* The Rockshox Judy was pretty good, for a 100mm fork with 30mm stanchions. It helps that the modern riding position is more centered on (or in) the bike. A similar fork on an old bike wouldn't have felt as nice. That said, the lack of adjustable compression damping made me just reach for the lockout when necessary. It's also a fairly heavy fork, and that's really the main reason I would change it out.

* The bike felt very planted, albeit somewhat heavy, when rolling. That must be part of massive feeling of 29ers, which is something entirely new to me. But, when the tire(s) left the ground for a very brief moment, the bike felt like it was flying. It does take a little effort to get 29ers going, but the bike turned into a rocket by the time I was finished with rapid initial acceleration. The frame feels strong yet pretty much as compliant as an old aluminum frame is and very comfortable overall. The seat was somewhat less comfortable, but not bad at all for a stock seat. (I might have needed it adjusted further back on its rails.) The tires the wheels were wrapped with felt both wonderfully grippy and fast rolling, and I would feel no reason to change them out. I would very much like to try them tubeless, though. No complaints about the wheels themselves.

* The bike's group set does not do its frame justice, but we all know this. I would not go crazy with upgrades, but I would definitely change out the group set (minus the brakes) and the fork.


In conclusion, I know it's a lengthy review, but hopefully it provided some good insight. I would very much like to know if anyone else here finds the crank arms (170mm for size S, 175mm for size M-XL) a bit too long.


As a "TL;DR" here is a summary of what I personally felt bothered me the most: for a size S, the bike's cranks should really be 165mm (the default for size XS) instead of 170mm.

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#2,356 ·
Ok , need some help . I bought a 2021 Chisel last week got a great deal . Swapping out a Fox 34 that was on it for a Reba . 34 has way too much travel .
I removed the Rhythm 34 last week , but can’t figure out where this silver piece went . See pics. Does that go on the bottom of the steerer tube like I put in the pic ?

Any help will be appreciated? Thanks you .
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#2,357 ·
Ok , need some help . I bought a 2021 Chisel last week got a great deal . Swapping out a Fox 34 that was on it for a Reba . 34 has way too much travel .
I removed the Rhythm 34 last week , but can’t figure out where this silver piece went . See pics. Does that go on the bottom of the steerer tube like I put in the pic ?

Any help will be appreciated? Thanks you .
That is the bearing that goes in your lower headset. Put a little grease on it and put in in the lower headset cup before you put the fork back on the bike. Is is also directional, make sure the taper goes into the headset cup.
 
#2,359 ·
Just bought a 2021 Chisel and my stock wheelset came in 1996 grams . I swapped it out for a Stans Arch MK4 set I already had as a XC wheelset to my trail bike . Those weigh 1774 .

I was a little surprised at weight of the stock set . I expected them to be heavier . If I didn’t have the other wheelset I would probably run with them until I have something in the 1600 range .

the X1900 Weigh about 1870 , but at a good price they are an upgrade. I wouldn’t pay the MSRP value for them , but there are deals out there

 
#2,361 ·
All right next issue . Swapped the heavy stout crankset with an SLX I replaced on my Stumpy . Good weight savings . I was running the one up switch on that bike and had an extra carrier and chainring , 30 T oval , so I put it on this bike . So went from 32T round to 30 T oval . Read on line and many people say it shouldn’t make a difference in chain length. But it shift like crap on highway and lowest cogs . I actually get skip in highest .

I played with the b tension , to ease the slack in highest gear , but that it doesn’t go to lowest gear . I am thinking I should remove a chain link .

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#2,363 · (Edited)
Hi, have a stock 2022 Chisel with SRAM 12sp - hoping to upsize the chainring.

From 32t, can I go to 34t / 36t / 38t? In any case, am I staying with the 3mm offset (I understand this is non-boost)? Would I need to get a longer chain?

I've read through earlier posts but wasn't sure this same question was referring to the pre-2021 frame and/or Shimano set.
 
#2,367 ·
Hello all. I managed to get hold of a Chisel Base at a great price - 50% off RRP, and then a further 39% off of that via a tax incentive scheme we have in the UK. I am not a huge fan of the smoke satin colour, but it was a good deal.

My current plans are:
  • Replace wheels with something lighter and with more engagement (Silt MTB XC alloy 29ers)
  • Swap out SX groupset for GX eagle
  • Carbon flat handlebars and carbon seatpost
  • Better saddle (likely a Prologo dimension).
I appreciate that it looks like I have bought a frameset with all of these changes (!), but with the price and trading up from SX to GX via eBay, I should have built a great bike for a fantastic price.

Are there any recommended changes you would make to the bike, as a priority? One thing I am considering is riding (grinding) out the SX over winter in the UK before putting on GX next year. But, I had terrible experience with NX before so might want to go to GX straight away. The new wheels I have ordered are on an XD freehub so I have to change the cassette if I swap to the new wheels straight away.

Will look into forks next year (Reba?). Any tips welcome. Will post a photo when I am happy with the setup.
 
#2,370 ·
Hello all. I managed to get hold of a Chisel Base at a great price - 50% off RRP, and then a further 39% off of that via a tax incentive scheme we have in the UK. I am not a huge fan of the smoke satin colour, but it was a good deal.

My current plans are:
  • Replace wheels with something lighter and with more engagement (Silt MTB XC alloy 29ers)
  • Swap out SX groupset for GX eagle
  • Carbon flat handlebars and carbon seatpost
  • Better saddle (likely a Prologo dimension).
I appreciate that it looks like I have bought a frameset with all of these changes (!), but with the price and trading up from SX to GX via eBay, I should have built a great bike for a fantastic price.

Are there any recommended changes you would make to the bike, as a priority? One thing I am considering is riding (grinding) out the SX over winter in the UK before putting on GX next year. But, I had terrible experience with NX before so might want to go to GX straight away. The new wheels I have ordered are on an XD freehub so I have to change the cassette if I swap to the new wheels straight away.

Will look into forks next year (Reba?). Any tips welcome. Will post a photo when I am happy with the setup.
I'd sell the SX groupset and get the GX. People are not willing to pay much for a used-low tier parts, but new ... not bad.
I'd put carbon bars and seatpost much lower in the priority list. I don't see much performance value on that.
Hope the color grows on you.