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Did you ask them to remove the stickers from the rim?
I didn't. Together with my lbs we decided to set a max budget for the wheels alone. And it should be DT Swiss 350 hubs.

Rims were open for change due to changing costs and pricing lately.

According to my lbs he normally uses DT Swiss 392 or 391 rims for XC rims.

Overall the wheelset really does what i wanted from it tho. Stiffness and a better quality wheelset overall compared to the stock wheelset.
 
I didn't. Together with my lbs we decided to set a max budget for the wheels alone. And it should be DT Swiss 350 hubs.

Rims were open for change due to changing costs and pricing lately.

According to my lbs he normally uses DT Swiss 392 or 391 rims for XC rims.

Overall the wheelset really does what i wanted from it tho. Stiffness and a better quality wheelset overall compared to the stock wheelset.
That is sketchy. I wouldn't accept a wheelset that supposedly had DT rims that didn't come with the vinyl decal. Decals are definitely valuable if you're ever trying to resell them and 350 hubs laced to either rim could easily outlast your bike frame.

Worth noting that the 391 is $107 a rim and the 392 is $57 a rim. Those prices are listed on DT's website and I've never had an issue with a local shop being able to match that price.

I'm sure some Sun Ringle MTX 33 rims laced to DT Swiss 350s would feel better than the stock wheels but it's still weird. I recently bought a used DT Swiss 1501 rear wheel for $80. It had been on Craigslist for nearly a month. It's got a 28 hole 240S straight pull hub with the 22.5 mm 1501 rim. I would have been a bit more concerned about its history if the rim was unmarked. Just letting you know as cautionary advice.
 
Yeah maybe it had been a mistake working like this. Ive relied on my lbs for advice and a proper set / instructions to their wheelbuilder (they outsource it) because it was simply my first time spending money on another wheelset.

Always ridden with stockwheels and never felt the need to upgrade.

The service my lbs provides outside this issue is top notch. So i am not so harsh about it simply because all other service i get from them is outstanding (might not be the best "excuse" but still)

I have to go back for some stuff later on, and will ask what rims are used. And place some pictures here later to see what you guys make of it.
 
That is sketchy. I wouldn't accept a wheelset that supposedly had DT rims that didn't come with the vinyl decal. Decals are definitely valuable if you're ever trying to resell them and 350 hubs laced to either rim could easily outlast your bike frame.

Worth noting that the 391 is $107 a rim and the 392 is $57 a rim. Those prices are listed on DT's website and I've never had an issue with a local shop being able to match that price.

I'm sure some Sun Ringle MTX 33 rims laced to DT Swiss 350s would feel better than the stock wheels but it's still weird. I recently bought a used DT Swiss 1501 rear wheel for $80. It had been on Craigslist for nearly a month. It's got a 28 hole 240S straight pull hub with the 22.5 mm 1501 rim. I would have been a bit more concerned about its history if the rim was unmarked. Just letting you know as cautionary advice.
Haven't been to the LBS yet, but after checking the rims online, or what i could find (there is some sparse info around):

Basically the rims are unmarked because they are sold by DT Swiss to bike brands to make their own wheels.

Specwise they are 23 mm internally and 27 mm external. 28 spokes per wheel.

Also did a longer ride, and i really loved the feel of the wheels.
Longer chattery sections werent as harsh on the hands as the stock wheels.

But that might come down to tire pressure aswell since the rim is a tiny bit wider so i could drop pressure a bit.

Furthermore i could really feel that the wheels responded a lot better, with acceleration or when cornering.

Overall: great set of wheels for the price and the upgrade i was looking for.

Lesson: for the next wheelset: be specific about what i want and do more research beforehand. Instead of leaving things "open".
 
hi, been reading this post and ended buying an L size comp 1x11 shimano:D, liked chisel frame since it came out. As will be used as training bike don´t want to spend much on it, a bit heavy out of the box, almost 12kilos, now with pedals is 10.8k. Had a fox fit performance fork, went tubeless, carbon bar and seatpost and schwalbe tires. Love East Sierras color.


 
Has anyone here done the internal routing on their Chisel? I bought a frame and it came with some soft rubber tubing that I'm not sure what to do with. Is it supposed to going around the internally routing cables? This is my first bike with internal cable routing. It looks easy compared to a lot of options out there. I'm just not sure what to do exactly.

Picking up a 2020 Fox 32 SC 100mm travel with Boost 110 spacing today. Final piece of the puzzle. Decided against a rigid fork for now.
 
Im thinking the rubber you're are referring to is the "churro", that specialized sends with their internally routed frames. On my Tarmac it was designed to be placed on the brake cable in the downtube to prevent rattling.

Has anyone here done the internal routing on their Chisel? I bought a frame and it came with some soft rubber tubing that I'm not sure what to do with. Is it supposed to going around the internally routing cables? This is my first bike with internal cable routing. It looks easy compared to a lot of options out there. I'm just not sure what to do exactly.

Picking up a 2020 Fox 32 SC 100mm travel with Boost 110 spacing today. Final piece of the puzzle. Decided against a rigid fork for now.
 
Im thinking the rubber you're are referring to is the "churro", that specialized sends with their internally routed frames. On my Tarmac it was designed to be placed on the brake cable in the downtube to prevent rattling.
Makes sense. Any particular way it is secured?

I saw that there's a PDF from Specialized regarding routing their Epic frame but it's a bit different. Hoping to turn up a PDF for the Chisel.
 
What happened to your fork? Original Reba?
Original Judy. Started rattling/clunking quite badly. Disappointed to find that the new replacement fork is almost as bad from the get go.

Reba is much better. If I decide to use the Chisel for more than just commuting and gravel, I'll need to upgrade that fork. Shame, as the bike overdelivers on everything else!
 
Here's my Chisel. I assembled the bike. I'm surprised I don't see more of this bike among bikepackers. This thing rips. I've done just 3 rides and 51 miles on it, going for another 30 today. I'm glad I went out of my way to get the Fox fork.


fork: MY2020 Fox 32 factory SC Boost 100mm travel 51mm offset.

stem: Paul Component Boxcar 50mm
saddle: Brooks
brakes:XTR M988/M985 (oldest part on the bike)
handlebar: Salsa salt flat cut to 750mm
inboard bar ends/mini aero bars: Ritchey with ESI chunky grips
grips: Ergon GP3 Biokork
shifter: GX


rear wheel: DT Swiss XR1501 spline 22.5 (scored it for $80 on Craigslist)
front wheel: some Sram takeoff
crankset: Sram GX Dub
derailleur: GX
chain: GX
cassette: Sram NX (had a spare hyperglide freehub and wanted to save some $)

tires: Maxxis Ikon 3C/EXO/TR 29 x 2.2"
sealant: Orange Seal

snack bag: Revelate Designs Mag Tank 2000
left hand Lezyne bottle cage and Zipp bottle

stock seatpost and headset. steerer tube still uncut and I haven't routed the brake line.
 

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Does anyone else have a problem with the bottle cage location on the seat tube? No matter what cages I use, my bottle rubs on the downtube (and has actually rubbed a good little divot into the aluminum).
What size frame? I don't have this issue on my XL. Using a King Cage Ti water bottle cage and a Camelbak Podium bottle and a mitutoyo vernier caliper to measure, there's 9 millimeters of room between the bottom of my bottle and the downtube. I'm into filing multi tools to save grams but would be concerned about wear in a downtube. I'd reach out to your local dealer and Specialized.
 
Discussion starter · #959 ·
Never had that issue on my Epic Hardtail but the water bottle boss mount wore out and essentially couldn't use a bottle cage without the thing being loose all the time
 
I've had this issue on my old Trek. I sourced a "Nutsert" tool and was able to tighten the thread back into the frame. As far as bottle rubbing, I only have the one cage on my Chisel downtube and haven't noticed any rubbing.

Never had that issue on my Epic Hardtail but the water bottle boss mount wore out and essentially couldn't use a bottle cage without the thing being loose all the time
 
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