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Can anyone check out their front wheel end caps on their factory offering bikes. Mine are pretty loose and the larger rings that sit on the outside never get tight when properly torqued into the fork. Like I can hear a slight rattle coming from the front and the culprit is the rings on the “torque cap”. Is this normal or do I need to make the hr drive to the bike shop.
 
No rattle on mine yet. But I did have a loose derailleur bolt. It should be user practice to go over your bike with torque wrenches and such and make sure things are tight after the first ride and each month of riding (sooner if you put many miles)

Or go to the bike shop, which often will tune-up your bike for free for the first year after purchase.

They're mechanical, things come loose. And shops aren't always the more expert at assembly. Usually it's the least experienced mechanic, or often a salesman that is asked to do the task of assembling the bike. Do you think they follow torque specs? I'm not putting my money on it.

And this was true of my Trek bike with the Mino links wanting to come loose. Some times you need lock-tite to keep them in place for sure.
 
My 17 fuel ex 8 was sooo annoying with bolts and what not coming loose.

I know exactly where it’s coming from. I don’t have the upmost confidence in the bike shop I got it from diagnosing the problem. They just take care of me when it comes to making a purchase lol
 
My problem with the EX8 is, typical of Trek, they make these HUUUUGE frames that are all but guaranteed to creak!

My Chisel hasn't creaked once and I've taken parts off, put them back, and I'm sure I wasn't pristine about it. But I do clean my bikes after almost every ride. 2 rides at most. Mostly because I enjoy throwing them up on the rack and working on them. But the shops are surprised at how clean they are when I get any work done I don't do myself. That said, there are many chips n scratches from at least 18 spills on both bikes the past year. I've learned to tone it down now that I'm 50, haha!
 
The big set screw directly opposite of the front derailer Mount was always the culprit for creaking for me. Once I figured it out and got loctite on it so it stayed I never had another issue. That bolt isn’t righty tighty tho! Sorry For for the hijack folks lol
 
Can anyone check out their front wheel end caps on their factory offering bikes. Mine are pretty loose and the larger rings that sit on the outside never get tight when properly torqued into the fork. Like I can hear a slight rattle coming from the front and the culprit is the rings on the "torque cap". Is this normal or do I need to make the hr drive to the bike shop.
Same problem for me. What I think is that the big S put a boost adaptor (2x5mm rings) on a 100mm hub. No problem at all on the trail but the noise is quite annoying... Sorry for my english, I'm Italian :)

Inviato dal mio HUAWEI VNS-L31 utilizzando Tapatalk
 
Can anyone check out their front wheel end caps on their factory offering bikes. Mine are pretty loose and the larger rings that sit on the outside never get tight when properly torqued into the fork. Like I can hear a slight rattle coming from the front and the culprit is the rings on the "torque cap". Is this normal or do I need to make the hr drive to the bike shop.
Pop the torque cap adapter rings off and try riding it again. THe fork will work fine without them.
 
Strange journey.

I got the Chisel because I wanted to do Gravel/Greenway with the option of jumping onto an MTB trail (which around here are mostly XC with some occasional technical) I was steered well to this bike. I had and MTB bike, so I didn't want to spend much, thinking of it as a training bike.

Jump ahead a year. I mostly stay on greenway/gravel and do road/sidewalk. Hard surfaces 90% of the time. So I thought "get a gravel bike or a road bike and avoid the gravel". SO I tested a Diverge. I jumped on a Ruebaix and a Domane. Even tried a cyclocross bike (Crux) I didn't like the road bikes that had little clearance (what if a rock gets caught there?) The cyclocross gearing was too limiting. So, back to the Diverge. But maybe I should just avoid gravel and get the bike I liked the most: Ruebaix (and I liked the Domane steering a lot)

Well, this is a bad time to buy a bike. Little stock, new year about to drop but not yet. So I took off the Fast Track 3.1/3.3" and put on Trigger Pro 38c to test out the "Do I really want gravel tires or slicks?" to help me find the bike I want. I even, for shits and giggles got on a $5k Roubaix with Di2 and Ultegra set that had me DREAMING of Di2, haha.

So I put on the Trigger and went out. Blew my previous times away, hands down. Went for a looong ride today. PRs all over the place. Interestingly, PR's over my Demo runs with the Diverge AND the Roubaix. (On a hill, the Roubaix was 8 seconds faster, but I was also fresher) but the ability of the Chisel with it's shock to just roll over root bumps in the greenway, bridge bumps, etc had me going faster overall. It climbs pretty good.

Damn. I NEVER expected my Chisel to be within 10 seconds of the Roubaix. I BOOKED on that Roubaix when I tested it. I was about 1.5 hours into my ride today when I beat that time away with the Chisel. Which tells me, they are close enough for greenways. I just don't have the higher gears for the road (hence higher road speed)

Maybe, one day, I'll want a Roubaix for a road bike. But for now, it seems the Chisel is an entirely new bike that rolls much faster with less effort, but also can handle so much with confidence, because of that shock.

So now I'm thinking of re-reading this forum and just upgrading some parts here and there.
Nothing like STRAVA times to get past your "new bike" desires with some cold hard facts: Your old bike with better wheels is pretty darned good.
 
The Chisel is a great bike. The only thing that would make it better, imho, would be a 40T or 42T chainring.
According to Specialized, they only tested it with a 38/28T.
Have someone tried a 40T or 42T on it?
 
The Chisel is a great bike. The only thing that would make it better, imho, would be a 40T or 42T chainring.
According to Specialized, they only tested it with a 38/28T.
Have someone tried a 40T or 42T on it?
I'd like to know about how big of a single ring will fit too.
 
Really like the rocket red but will be building up a frameset. Current bike is carbon FS stumpy in matte carbon so a bit tired of the dull look. Opinions on glass black/hyper vs. satin black/cali fade?
 
If it's a triple the outside ring should be far enough out to fit, since the middle 30t ring is about where a single would be. Boost is usually 51-53 chain line, Shimano XT triple is set up for 50mm, should work ok.

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If it's a triple the outside ring should be far enough out to fit, since the middle 30t ring is about where a single would be. Boost is usually 51-53 chain line, Shimano XT triple is set up for 50mm, should work ok.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
Can spacers or something be used instead of the two other rings? To reduce weight by eliminating the two rings that would not be used.
How about chain alignment? Any with dropping the chain?
 
Can spacers or something be used instead of the two other rings? To reduce weight by eliminating the two rings that would not be used.
How about chain alignment? Any with dropping the chain?
The 40 would be so far outboard that using the lowest 4 or so gears would be terrible I think. I imagine that you could only mount the one ring, but I've never actually seen a current gen triple in person.

Maybe you could look at an e*thirteen cassette with the 9 tooth cog to get the high gear you want with a 38. 38x9 is close to 42x10.

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