Just ordered my frame. Parts are ready, some moved from the existing bikes and some are new. Hope to achieve below 10.5kg. By paper calculation, the weight is around 10.3

The frame to be built with:
1. Fork: Fox 32 SC Performance Grip
2. Crankset : Rotor Rex 1.2 with 25/36 QRing
3. Cassette : XTR M9000 11- 40
4. XT Di2 Kit, single shifter. Synchronize Shift
5. Seatpost: KS LEV Integra
6. Saddle: Fabric Scoop
7. Handle Bar: Renthal Fatbar Lite Carbon
8. Stem: Renthal APEX
9. Brakeset: SRAM Guide Ultimate with 180 F/R rotor
10. Hub: Hope Pro 4
11. RIM: Stan Arch MK3 with DT Swiss Spoke
12. Grip: Revolution Suspension Grips
13. Gamut Podium Pedal

 

Hey all! There are some nice builds on this thread. Can any chisel owners comment on the largest chainring that would fit on the 1x model? 38?

 

I emailed Specialized and they replied saying a 38 would be fine for sure. I am wondering if a 40 would fit.

 

I emailed Specialized again and they replied saying that they have not tested anything larger than 38.

 

I'm thinking about getting one - as it's always good to have a 29er HT in addition to whatever else one has. I was going to get a Rockhopper Pro - but I want thru axles.

Anyway, question - maybe somewhat of an "obscure" question, but maybe it can be answered here. I might email Specialized as well - the headtube is short and the fork steerer tube is cut short, so there aren't any spacers available to set up controls so - in event of a crash - or maybe even just putting bike in a hatchback car- that controls will clear top tube. Any Chisel owners flipped the 6 deg rise stem up and rotated controls u a bit to get top tube clearance, and/or went to bit higher rise bar?

 

Got a question,

Looking into some stickers for my wheelset.
For 2 reasons:
1: i would want to match the wheels better to the bike with some rim stickers.
2: since i will keep this wheelset till the end of the season and then getting a hand built set from my LBS at the start of next season / year.

But the big issue with buying rim or wheel stickers on the internet is all about the type of rim / sort of rim.

Anyone know on what wheelset the wheels are based?

And how does the sticker measurement work? some sites explain it clearly, others not so much

Thanks in advance!

 

I use this bike more for greenway & gravel (I have a Fuel EX8 for trails) and am wondering if I should put on different tires. Less knobby, something that can scoot along better. But not something too thin that I spin out on gravel for a steep hill.

Advice on the size and type of tire (tyre haha)? TIA

 

See if you an find some of the 29x1.9 Specialized Renegade tires. Those are fantastic.
Or something like a Maxxis Ikon, Schwalbe Racing Ralph, etc..

 

Good tires choices. The Maxxis Ikon is a popular tire.

 

Some great looking Chisel buildups in here.
I am actually thinking about getting a frame and transfer the parts that I currently have in my 2013 Epic Comp FSR. This is basically my spare bike, since I mostly ride my 2017 Stumpjumper.
I was thinking it would be nice to have a light hardtail for the days when I don't feel like hauling my 30 pound Stumpy around...
Question is, would I be able to transfer most of the parts from the Epic to the Chisel frame? Most parts are stock, although I did change to a 32 single ring and a 10 speed 11-42 Shimano casette, and replaced the stock brakes with Shimano XT. The fork is the Reba that came with the bike.
Anyway, I'm not sure what the weight difference would be between the 2 bikes, Epic Comp and Chisel, given that the parts will be basically the same...

 

Yes most parts easily transferable and weight difference about 3 lbs. Probably different bottom brackets and you may need a brake mounting spacer or two for the rear. Chisel is 15 axle - 148 boost rear spacing so my guess is your Epic is of the pre boost era thus likely the back wheel will not work.

 

Are the wheels that come with the expert tubeless ready and just need valve stems? Going to order a black/hyper green tomorrow and would like to make sure shop has everything I will need or need to order. Thanks!!

 

I believe most Specialized wheels and tires can easily be converted to tubeless by adding new valve stems, tape and sealant. I'm sure the shop can do that for you when you pick up your bike.

 

Thanks. It’s mostly a roady shop and doesn’t deal a whole lot with nicer MTB stuff a whole bunch so Im just trying to dot my i’s. They are the closest Specialized dealer and they are pretty good to me, so I don’t mind giving them business. Probably going to order a 32T c’dale green absoluteblack oval and either a Whisky or FSA SLK Carbon seatpost at the same time. I have some very lightly used Maxxis skinwalls Ikon’s 2.2’s from a bike I just sold I’m going to throw on there as well. Should look good at least!

 

Yes the wheels can go tubeless very easily.

 

Large Frame, set up tubeless with Maxxis 2.2 Ikons and changed factory chainring (holy heavy!) for WT 32T oval. With cages and pedals it weighs just shy of 24 lbs.

 

Large Frame, set up tubeless with Maxxis 2.2 Ikons and changed factory chainring (holy heavy!) for WT 32T oval. With cages and pedals it weighs just shy of 24 lbs.
View attachment 1200028

Nice looking machine. I think I like it better than the red one. Thinking very seriously about getting one myself...

 

Mine is the black / hyper green version aswell.

Somehow it just doesnt get dull. and i look at it every day, due to limited storage options it is part of my living room

 

What are the smallest tires the Specialized Alloy 29, 25mm internal will take?

And what rims/tires do people usually use for Gravel/Greenway, some road connectors?

 

I used to race my Crave as a gravel bike as well as MTB. The wheels I had for gravel usage were 23mm internal and I used to run the specialized renegade 29x1.95s as well as some 700x40c Vittoria Terreno Dry tires.
I would not go any smaller than a 700x40c on the 25mm internal, the tire will �square out� pretty quick if you go smaller.

I really like the Vittoria terrenos, but you can look at all the various gravel tires in the 700x40 (and larger). They will fit just fine on the stock chisel rims.

If you really want wheels, that�s a whole other can. Lots of great �gravel�wheel sets out there for $400-$600 if you want new. Just remember you need them with Boost hubs.

I need some help with specs for new tires or rims for tires.

Btw, the "buy a bike from your local shop" under the auspice that they can help you figure out what you want is not entirely true. For my Trek bike shop, yes, quite willing to give advice. Bad advice. The rims they would have me get apparently broke during the review that I read. I got rims on the advice of a guy I met on the trails and his Roval Traverse SL's on my Trek have been fantastic. But for the shop I got the Chisel at, well, I asked the question below and was told to buy another bike. No info on doing what I want.

I use my Chisel mostly for Greenway & Gravel (I use the Trek Fuel EX8 for MTB trails)
So I might as well give in and get thinner tires. How thin? IDK. How thin a tire can one put on a Specialized Alloy 29, 25mm internal diameter that comes stock with the Chisel Comp?

Also, if that's not optimal, what rims should I get and recommended tires for Gravel/Greenway and sometimes roads that connect those paths that can still fit my disc brakes, 10 speed for the Shimano XT derailleur?

Thanks so much, I learn more on here than in any shop, frankly. They just don't seem willing to offer advice on gear they don't stock, nor are the willing to part with fixing info. (except one woman at the Trek shop who is fantastic on advice and fix info. She used to work the Trek phone lines at corporate. +1 Women! haha)

Ideally I SHOULD buy a dedicated bike, sure. But this is what I have to work with, the Chisel frame should be capable of this type of riding (I like the straight handle bars, and some of the gravel trails are tricky with washout, rocks, steep incline/decline, and the occasional hill I ride down between things on my adventures.

 

I also read that thinner doesn't always mean faster, so it's really just 2 issues:
- lower gravitational weight of thinner tire makes acceleration a tad easier
-Tread, tread, tread...

That said, many thanks!

 

Hello
I am currently riding stan's ZTR crest 23mm internal and Compass 32 mm Stampede Pass clincher tires - slicks.
These are top quality tires for gravel and I would say ideal for what you are describing. Very supple and hence fast. For 25 mm internal, you should maybe go on a safe side and choose a 35 mm Bon Jon tire.
They are expensive, so a good alternative would be something from panaracer - they are producing the compass tires, but to higher specifications.
Hope that helps

 

[DELETED] Found answers above...

 

Can anyone check out their front wheel end caps on their factory offering bikes. Mine are pretty loose and the larger rings that sit on the outside never get tight when properly torqued into the fork. Like I can hear a slight rattle coming from the front and the culprit is the rings on the “torque cap”. Is this normal or do I need to make the hr drive to the bike shop.

 

Can anyone check out their front wheel end caps on their factory offering bikes. Mine are pretty loose and the larger rings that sit on the outside never get tight when properly torqued into the fork. Like I can hear a slight rattle coming from the front and the culprit is the rings on the "torque cap". Is this normal or do I need to make the hr drive to the bike shop.

Same problem for me. What I think is that the big S put a boost adaptor (2x5mm rings) on a 100mm hub. No problem at all on the trail but the noise is quite annoying... Sorry for my english, I'm Italian

Inviato dal mio HUAWEI VNS-L31 utilizzando Tapatalk

 

Can anyone check out their front wheel end caps on their factory offering bikes. Mine are pretty loose and the larger rings that sit on the outside never get tight when properly torqued into the fork. Like I can hear a slight rattle coming from the front and the culprit is the rings on the "torque cap". Is this normal or do I need to make the hr drive to the bike shop.

Pop the torque cap adapter rings off and try riding it again. THe fork will work fine without them.

 

No rattle on mine yet. But I did have a loose derailleur bolt. It should be user practice to go over your bike with torque wrenches and such and make sure things are tight after the first ride and each month of riding (sooner if you put many miles)

Or go to the bike shop, which often will tune-up your bike for free for the first year after purchase.

They're mechanical, things come loose. And shops aren't always the more expert at assembly. Usually it's the least experienced mechanic, or often a salesman that is asked to do the task of assembling the bike. Do you think they follow torque specs? I'm not putting my money on it.

And this was true of my Trek bike with the Mino links wanting to come loose. Some times you need lock-tite to keep them in place for sure.

 

My 17 fuel ex 8 was sooo annoying with bolts and what not coming loose.

I know exactly where it’s coming from. I don’t have the upmost confidence in the bike shop I got it from diagnosing the problem. They just take care of me when it comes to making a purchase lol

 

My problem with the EX8 is, typical of Trek, they make these HUUUUGE frames that are all but guaranteed to creak!

My Chisel hasn't creaked once and I've taken parts off, put them back, and I'm sure I wasn't pristine about it. But I do clean my bikes after almost every ride. 2 rides at most. Mostly because I enjoy throwing them up on the rack and working on them. But the shops are surprised at how clean they are when I get any work done I don't do myself. That said, there are many chips n scratches from at least 18 spills on both bikes the past year. I've learned to tone it down now that I'm 50, haha!

 

The big set screw directly opposite of the front derailer Mount was always the culprit for creaking for me. Once I figured it out and got loctite on it so it stayed I never had another issue. That bolt isn’t righty tighty tho! Sorry For for the hijack folks lol

 

Strange journey.

I got the Chisel because I wanted to do Gravel/Greenway with the option of jumping onto an MTB trail (which around here are mostly XC with some occasional technical) I was steered well to this bike. I had and MTB bike, so I didn't want to spend much, thinking of it as a training bike.

Jump ahead a year. I mostly stay on greenway/gravel and do road/sidewalk. Hard surfaces 90% of the time. So I thought "get a gravel bike or a road bike and avoid the gravel". SO I tested a Diverge. I jumped on a Ruebaix and a Domane. Even tried a cyclocross bike (Crux) I didn't like the road bikes that had little clearance (what if a rock gets caught there?) The cyclocross gearing was too limiting. So, back to the Diverge. But maybe I should just avoid gravel and get the bike I liked the most: Ruebaix (and I liked the Domane steering a lot)

Well, this is a bad time to buy a bike. Little stock, new year about to drop but not yet. So I took off the Fast Track 3.1/3.3" and put on Trigger Pro 38c to test out the "Do I really want gravel tires or slicks?" to help me find the bike I want. I even, for shits and giggles got on a $5k Roubaix with Di2 and Ultegra set that had me DREAMING of Di2, haha.

So I put on the Trigger and went out. Blew my previous times away, hands down. Went for a looong ride today. PRs all over the place. Interestingly, PR's over my Demo runs with the Diverge AND the Roubaix. (On a hill, the Roubaix was 8 seconds faster, but I was also fresher) but the ability of the Chisel with it's shock to just roll over root bumps in the greenway, bridge bumps, etc had me going faster overall. It climbs pretty good.

Damn. I NEVER expected my Chisel to be within 10 seconds of the Roubaix. I BOOKED on that Roubaix when I tested it. I was about 1.5 hours into my ride today when I beat that time away with the Chisel. Which tells me, they are close enough for greenways. I just don't have the higher gears for the road (hence higher road speed)

Maybe, one day, I'll want a Roubaix for a road bike. But for now, it seems the Chisel is an entirely new bike that rolls much faster with less effort, but also can handle so much with confidence, because of that shock.

So now I'm thinking of re-reading this forum and just upgrading some parts here and there.
Nothing like STRAVA times to get past your "new bike" desires with some cold hard facts: Your old bike with better wheels is pretty darned good.