[slidey]

Perhaps the biggest "downfall" of the Chisel is that it's only offered with lower end components. I'm a little surprised that Specialized doesn't offer at least a GX build for sale. Maybe they're worried about it cannibalizing sales from Epic HT or something.

I think they assume either of the two will be built up by plenty of their individual owners for the purpose of racing.

 

[sa12]

From my research, the stock wheels are heavy. This is by no means accurate, but I did a rough calculation of the weight savings I'd have if I were to take a base model Chisel and go XT or XTR 12 speed for the group set and put a basic SID fork on it, including pedals and tubes. The theoretical number I arrived at is somewhere between 11.4 and 11.8kg. That's good but honestly not amazing for the money. I would definitely ditch the stock wheels and maybe lose at least .5 kg if replacing with a good aluminum set.

Yeah, if you're being weight-conscious (and if you have the budget) then you'll be best off replacing all the components. The downside of these inexpensive builds is that everything weighs a little bit more than it probably should. Gotta keep the cost down, right? So the wheels are probably heavy, and I think the cranks are relatively heavy, too. Replacing the full groupset (including cranks) and wheels should help with some weight savings.

With regards to your other post (I'm too lazy to quote it here), I do agree that people will be happy with the relatively low price for the complete bike, and they people can replace components as they desire. I don't mind this approach at all, just a bit surprised that they don't do a bit more with this frame.

 

[makemann]

From my research, the stock wheels are heavy. This is by no means accurate, but I did a rough calculation of the weight savings I'd have if I were to take a base model Chisel and go XT or XTR 12 speed for the group set and put a basic SID fork on it, including pedals and tubes. The theoretical number I arrived at is somewhere between 11.4 and 11.8kg. That's good but honestly not amazing for the money. I would definitely ditch the stock wheels and maybe lose at least .5 kg if replacing with a good aluminum set.

I built up my size large 2021 Chameleon Green Chisel with Roval wheels, GX AXS, SID fork and got it down to 23.1 lbs. (10.48 kg). The stock wheels and fork make up the majority of the weight.

I just converted my 2023 Chisel Comp to singlespeed, but kept the Judy fork, which is really heavy, and only got it down to 23.6 lbs (10.7 kg). I have the same Roval wheels. I expected it to be lighter than the 2021, but every stock component remaining on the bike, makes a difference!

 

[Kevin Matherne]

If you are going for lightweight the thing to do with the chisel is buying the frameset and building it up. Don’t mess around with chasing weight by changing stock components as its harder to sell the takeoffs than you think. With well thought out parts it can get to 20lbs flat with no dropper and much lower if setup as a ss and/or with a rigid fork.

 

[slidey]

I built up my size large 2021 Chameleon Green Chisel with Roval wheels, GX AXS, SID fork and got it down to 23.1 lbs. (10.48 kg). The stock wheels and fork make up the majority of the weight.

I just converted my 2023 Chisel Comp to singlespeed, but kept the Judy fork, which is really heavy, and only got it down to 23.6 lbs (10.7 kg). I have the same Roval wheels. I expected it to be lighter than the 2021, but every stock component remaining on the bike, makes a difference!

Thanks for sharing your builds! I was told wheels are an item you outgrow and I wasn't initially sure what was meant by that. The stock group set is quite heavy from what I've read, but the stock wheels clearly are as well.

On a different note, how does the bike ride when built with carbon wheels? Does the apparent compliance of the frame more than make up for the stiffness of the wheels?

 

[sselhtrim]

Think my reserve 28s felt slightly less comfy compared to stock. But the pirelli xc rc 2.4 I'm using now feel more comfy/softer and less buzzy than the previous barzos I had.

 

[makemann]

Thanks for sharing your builds! I was told wheels are an item you outgrow and I wasn't initially sure what was meant by that. The stock group set is quite heavy from what I've read, but the stock wheels clearly are as well.

On a different note, how does the bike ride when built with carbon wheels? Does the apparent compliance of the frame more than make up for the stiffness of the wheels?

The Chisel handles so smoothly. It feels like it wants to accelerate on its own with the carbon wheels. I have an Epic HT that I race with, but I love taking out the Chisel for everyday training rides.

 

[sa12]

I've been very happy with my Chisel w/ Roval carbon wheels.

CONTROL 29 CARBON 6B XD 1000185720

Elevating Weekend Hot Laps to World Cup XC StatusFrom weekend hot laps to World Cup XC finals, the Control Carbon combines the low weight and strength f...

www.specialized.com

This past summer I swapped in some aluminum wheels from another bike. They're a bit heavier, and the bike felt a tiny bit more sluggish. I don't remember a huge difference in ride quality, but I only rode them once or twice.

 

[WobbleEye]

There are a few tarmac trails near me - Chisel's stock T5's tyres seem to be ok on the asphalt but I'm considering Smart Sams for better rolling but in 2.1 - similar weight as the original 2.35.

Smart Sams in 2.35 are 150g heavier - not sure if this would be noticeable?

Would I lose much air volume going from 2.35 to 2.1? I know the diameter would be reduced by ~12mm, so there's the gearing ratio to consider too...

Would Smart Sams be much better on the tarmac than originals?

Would you go with 2.1 or 2.35 Smart Sams? Or for what it is - keep the stock tyres on?

 

[slidey]

... I'm considering Smart Sams for better rolling but in 2.1 - similar weight as the original 2.35.

Not sure about 29" Schwalbe but in the past I tried Schwalbe tires on a 26er and felt they ran a bit narrow. I know your intention is to go narrow on the tires to begin with, but just know it's possible they may be narrower than you anticipate. If you're set on the Schwalbe it might be a good idea to buy both widths and compare. By the way, just how are the Specialized tires on pavement? For what I'm reading about weight, grip, and durability they look hard to beat at their price for XC riding.

 

[WobbleEye]

Not sure about 29" Schwalbe but in the past I tried Schwalbe tires on a 26er and felt they ran a bit narrow. I know your intention is to go narrow on the tires to begin with, but just know it's possible they may be narrower than you anticipate. If you're set on the Schwalbe it might be a good idea to buy both widths and compare. By the way, just how are the Specialized tires on pavement? For what I'm reading about weight, grip, and durability they look hard to beat at their price for XC riding.

The stock T5's are not overly lumpy or heavy but they're bulky. I had Schwalbe Marathons 2.0" on my old 26er, so I'm looking from that viewpoint.
As for the XC side of things - I don't think I'm "qualified" to judge the T5's, went on a few short rides in the local parks - to me they feel very good and grippy but obviously they're not made for the pavement, although bearable.
Realistically, for now, I can see 60% paved roads and the rest - parks, so thinking about going "sleeker" and narrower.

 

[slidey]

As for the XC side of things - I don't think I'm "qualified" to judge the T5's, went on a few short rides in the local parks - to me they feel very good and grippy but obviously they're not made for the pavement, although bearable.

That's fair enough. And since you already have experience running Schwalbe tires, I'm sure you expect to find they may be on the narrow side. More than anything, determine if the stock wheels (if that's what you're running) will match up acceptably with a narrow tire.

 

[Hokku]

The stock T5's are not overly lumpy or heavy but they're bulky. I had Schwalbe Marathons 2.0" on my old 26er, so I'm looking from that viewpoint.
As for the XC side of things - I don't think I'm "qualified" to judge the T5's, went on a few short rides in the local parks - to me they feel very good and grippy but obviously they're not made for the pavement, although bearable.
Realistically, for now, I can see 60% paved roads and the rest - parks, so thinking about going "sleeker" and narrower.

I have Renegade S-Works on the front and Schwalbe Thunder Burt at the back. I had Smart Sams on a rental bike during holiday and feel that TB & Renegade roll lot better. So I would suggest TB at the back if rolling resistance is the main concern. Then the front based on the grip requirements you have.

 

[Jeremy05]

If anyone is looking for a dropper for their chisel I have a 125mm PNC Loam dropper that I'm not longer using on my chisel. I'll sell for a good price to someone on MTBR. If you interested send me a PM.

 

[slidey]

Has anyone here tried both the Cannondale Scalpel HT Carbon 4 and the Chisel? I know one is carbon and the other is aluminum, but I can't help but notice the value associated with the former. For 2,300 USD you get what is claimed by reviewers to be a very comfortable carbon frame - with a XT/Deore 12 speed build and a Rockshox SID SL. I think buying that fork alone for a SRAM SX based Chisel would be about $700. I'm still trying to make an informed decision before I spend my budget.

 

[lloydrm]

Based on geometry it wouldn’t be my choice, yet I can see it is very nicely specced. While I have not ridden one of those, it shares geometry with one or two I consider nice bikes, but I like the geometry of Specialized mtbs better. Personal preferences.

 

[Catmandoo]

Santa left me a set of new Race Face Next SL carbon wheels, for my Chisel. Other then swapping to XT Di2, this is really the only upgrade I have felt like doing to the bike, got it down to 25.7 lbs, which is a nice weight. I'm sure if I lightened up the tires (currently Nobby Nics) and swapped to carbon things like bar, seatpost and crank, I could get the weight down further, but likely will not. Test ride tomorrow once I master getting a tubeless tire inflated, LOL. EDIT: boy do I suck at installing tubeless. I think this is my 3rd or 4th time installing new and I always get one tire inflated no issue, sometimes with a floor pump, have issues with 2nd tire using a compressor and Presta head. My problem is getting one side seated on the ledge and against the rim wall. I need to watch some more YT’s. Finally got both tires with sealant and inflated, but what a PITA

 

[sselhtrim]

My experience with stans and reserve rims is that they inflate from the get go with a floor pump easy, no more difficult than a tube. But once my mucoff tape had issues and it wouldn't hold air and I went back to stans. So it could be thing with the rims rather than with you.

 

[sa12]

You can also try removing the valve core and blowing air straight in that way. Once you hear both sides pop into place stop inflating. Then double check that the bead is set, then add sealant, and then put the valve core back in and inflate.

At some point in this 120 page discussion I learned that the stock wheelset is pretty heavy. Upgrading the wheelset is probably the best way to improve the bike's performance.

 

[Catmandoo]

You can also try removing the valve core and blowing air straight in that way. Once you hear both sides pop into place stop inflating. Then double check that the bead is set, then add sealant, and then put the valve core back in and inflate.

At some point in this 120 page discussion I learned that the stock wheelset is pretty heavy. Upgrading the wheelset is probably the best way to improve the bike's performance.

Yes, tried the trick with removing valve core to initially seat. Worked, but then the bead unseated itself and would not inflate. I was using an air compressor and Presta valve adapter. I finally resorted to using a tire lever to reach under the bead and get it to sit closer to the rim wall, then blew air back in and got it to seat. I’m not good at it mostly as I really only deflate the tires in occasion, usually to add sealant.

On test ride, wheels felt good. Certainly lighter, easier to get up to speed. Not a huge weight improvement. I weighed the OEM wheels with no tires/cassette or rotors at 1920 grams. The Race Face wheels are 1573, so 350 grams or so, or 3/4 pound. Enough to feel the difference'. They do feel literally stiffer when cornering at speed.