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Hey Question for chisel owners .

I am looking to buy a Chisel to have a light XC bike to compliment my Stumpy .

I found a good deal on FB marketplace for a 2021 , barley ridden but the guy put a rhythm 34 and isn’t sure how much travel the 34 has . I want to check out the bike . Two questions

Any quick way to determine travel by measuring the stanchions ? Not sure the 34 is at 130 , 140 or omg 150 . That wouldn’t be crazy .

What would you look for on the frame to ensure over forking it with a 34 didn’t compromise it ?
 
Hey Question for chisel owners .

I am looking to buy a Chisel to have a light XC bike to compliment my Stumpy .

I found a good deal on FB marketplace for a 2021 , barley ridden but the guy put a rhythm 34 and isn’t sure how much travel the 34 has . I want to check out the bike . Two questions

Any quick way to determine travel by measuring the stanchions ? Not sure the 34 is at 130 , 140 or omg 150 . That wouldn’t be crazy .

What would you look for on the frame to ensure over forking it with a 34 didn’t compromise it ?

You could purchase an air shaft assembly for 100mm or 110mm of travel, if you wish to reduce the travel. Alternatively, resell the fork and put the money towards something else (ex. Fox 32 SC). I do not know how to look for signs of stress in an over-forked bike, besides looking for obvious cracks by the head tube. If the bike was not ridden hard, I would not worry about it. As for determining the current travel of the fork, you can measure the exposed stanchion length and arrive at the answer, but just be careful if measuring with something sharp to not accidentally scrape or gouge the stanchion.
 
You could purchase an air shaft assembly for 100mm or 110mm of travel, if you wish to reduce the travel. Alternatively, resell the fork and put the money towards something else (ex. Fox 32 SC). I do not know how to look for signs of stress in an over-forked bike, besides looking for obvious cracks by the head tube. If the bike was not ridden hard, I would not worry about it. As for determining the current travel of the fork, you can measure the exposed stanchion length and arrive at the answer, but just be careful if measuring with something sharp to not accidentally scrape or gouge the stanchion.
Thank you . Good points . According to seller it was barely ridden bought new and doesn’t have the time to ride. Probably newer rider to which would explain the 34 on this type of bike .

Searched internet looks like commons suggestion is to check head tube for cracks . Hopefully if is was barley ridden I should be fine . Going to take my measure tape to measure stanchions . My Factory 34 on my stumpy measure exactly 140 MM on the stanchions and is 140 travel . Not the best exact science , but should give me an idea .
If it looks good I’ll probably buy it and sell the 34 after I buy a Reba to put on
 
I found a good deal on FB marketplace for a 2021 , barley ridden but the guy put a rhythm 34 and isn’t sure how much travel the 34 has . I want to check out the bike . Two questions

Any quick way to determine travel by measuring the stanchions ? Not sure the 34 is at 130 , 140 or omg 150 . That wouldn’t be crazy .
No idea how you can go about measuring by hand, but if you can get the "tune ID" or serial number printed on the fork then you can put it in the website below and it'll tell you the length.

 
Noticed quite a few long seat posts on Chisels exposed - makes me think these are going with smaller size frames?

On XL I end up with 225mm seat post clamp to seat, does this look like the frame is too big for me? Understandably, there are other factors at play, so just from the sizing and proportions' point:

View attachment 2060163
Nah, I think you're fine, judging by the stem length. Some people just have longer legs in proportion to their height and need more exposed seatpost. I ran a ton of seatpost out on mine, but I was probably on a size too small.

I went from 100 to 120 and like the way the bikes rides better. It feels slightly more planted on the trail and did not seem to have any real negative effect on steering. If I recall it slackened the steering angle by about 0.8 degrees. If you are looking for a 120mm SID Select I have a new take off fork that I was going to use for another build that I decided to not go forward with. PM me if your interested.
Hah, I went from 120 to 100 and liked it better on the chisel, front end lift on climbs completely disappeared and I didn't think descending was any worse.
 
Anyone able to help me locate this Chisel frame in size XL? Would be very happy if someone knows about one :)

Colorway:
SATIN BRUSHED SMOKE LIQUID METAL / GLOSS METALLIC WHITE SILVER

specialized.com/us/en/chisel-frameset/p/199642?color=319944-199642&searchText=71722-7005
 
No idea how you can go about measuring by hand, but if you can get the "tune ID" or serial number printed on the fork then you can put it in the website below and it'll tell you the length.

Update , so I bought the bike . Looks sparkling clean , looks like it was never ridden .

Weight came out to 27.6 for a size medium . However , that includes the Fox 34 Rhythm on there and tubes as the guy never went tubeless.

haven’t ridden it yet , went right to work swapping parts . Took off the stout cranks and installed my SLX cranks if took off my Stumpy two years ago .

Than removed the fork and stuff got interesting.Thanks to @sa12 , I used your link and it gave me this info on my fork below . Basically saying it’s a 120 travel . But the stanchions are huge . My 140 on my stumpy measure exactly 140 , factory fork 34 . This one measures about 150 . So really having a hard time confirming what travel this fork is . I believe someone might have adjusted the travel to at least 140 .

Anyone have any good recommendations to figure out the travel on this fork ? I removed it , took out the air and pushed the stanchions down , but they really struggled to go all the way down . Then the pops back up to the top . Not sure I am doing that correctly. I want to sell it anyways , but rather have the proper travel information listed when selling .
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.... This one measures about 150 . So really having a hard time confirming what travel this fork is . I believe someone might have adjusted the travel to at least 140 ....
Adjusting travel exposes more stanchion, meaning there's more extension. It does not mean that the uppers get any closer to the lowers upon maximum compression. The travel on these forks was adjusted to something unrealistic for the frame it's attached to. If you intend on replacing the forks, just make sure they're functional and get full travel so that you can describe them in a listing accordingly.
 
Well, I was afforded a lengthy test ride of a new Chisel (not Comp), size S, in both an urban setting and on paths and park space. My initial impressions are that I would definitely need to get used to the wheel size. I do love the smoothness of 29ers, but I am coming from 26ers and have to play catchup. By the way, it's worth mentioning I was riding on cheap test pedals that looked and felt quite vintage.

* The riding position was interesting. I felt very upright, legs suspended. I felt like I needed to get up out of the bike to get it going. And, this could be my bias, but I felt like 60mm is too short a stem even for the size S. Medium and up get a 70mm stem. Opposite, the 170mm crank arms were a surprise to me. On my old bikes, 170mm is the sweet spot, but on this bike the crank arms felt somewhat long. It's possible I had the seat a little too high, though. I notice size XS has 165mm cranks and I do wonder if I would switch to those if I was to buy the bike.

* The SRAM drive train was surprisingly quiet and smooth in shifting, but there was this weird sort of kickback feeling when I would abruptly stop pedaling. Also, it liked dropping at least one gear upon backpedaling. The rear hub is loud to an annoying degree. I appreciate the higher POE than what I am used to, but the noise got to me.

* The cockpit was fine, brakes are nothing special but they bite well. The handle bars are a little wide, at 750mm. Anything wider than 740mm seems too wide. The lock-on grips were awful, but I won't count those against the bike nor Specialized, because bikes don't usually come with amazing grips. The SX shifters felt nice and crisp and I liked the single direction up/down shifting and the multiple clicks allowed at once for downshifting.

* The Rockshox Judy was pretty good, for a 100mm fork with 30mm stanchions. It helps that the modern riding position is more centered on (or in) the bike. A similar fork on an old bike wouldn't have felt as nice. That said, the lack of adjustable compression damping made me just reach for the lockout when necessary. It's also a fairly heavy fork, and that's really the main reason I would change it out.

* The bike felt very planted, albeit somewhat heavy, when rolling. That must be part of massive feeling of 29ers, which is something entirely new to me. But, when the tire(s) left the ground for a very brief moment, the bike felt like it was flying. It does take a little effort to get 29ers going, but the bike turned into a rocket by the time I was finished with rapid initial acceleration. The frame feels strong yet pretty much as compliant as an old aluminum frame is and very comfortable overall. The seat was somewhat less comfortable, but not bad at all for a stock seat. (I might have needed it adjusted further back on its rails.) The tires the wheels were wrapped with felt both wonderfully grippy and fast rolling, and I would feel no reason to change them out. I would very much like to try them tubeless, though. No complaints about the wheels themselves.

* The bike's group set does not do its frame justice, but we all know this. I would not go crazy with upgrades, but I would definitely change out the group set (minus the brakes) and the fork.


In conclusion, I know it's a lengthy review, but hopefully it provided some good insight. I would very much like to know if anyone else here finds the crank arms (170mm for size S, 175mm for size M-XL) a bit too long.


As a "TL;DR" here is a summary of what I personally felt bothered me the most: for a size S, the bike's cranks should really be 165mm (the default for size XS) instead of 170mm.

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Ok , need some help . I bought a 2021 Chisel last week got a great deal . Swapping out a Fox 34 that was on it for a Reba . 34 has way too much travel .
I removed the Rhythm 34 last week , but can’t figure out where this silver piece went . See pics. Does that go on the bottom of the steerer tube like I put in the pic ?

Any help will be appreciated? Thanks you .
Image

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Ok , need some help . I bought a 2021 Chisel last week got a great deal . Swapping out a Fox 34 that was on it for a Reba . 34 has way too much travel .
I removed the Rhythm 34 last week , but can’t figure out where this silver piece went . See pics. Does that go on the bottom of the steerer tube like I put in the pic ?

Any help will be appreciated? Thanks you .
That is the bearing that goes in your lower headset. Put a little grease on it and put in in the lower headset cup before you put the fork back on the bike. Is is also directional, make sure the taper goes into the headset cup.
 
I've seen the DT Swiss X1900 wheel set on a few Chisels now and I'm wondering, are they a noticeable improvement over the stock wheel set?
Just bought a 2021 Chisel and my stock wheelset came in 1996 grams . I swapped it out for a Stans Arch MK4 set I already had as a XC wheelset to my trail bike . Those weigh 1774 .

I was a little surprised at weight of the stock set . I expected them to be heavier . If I didn’t have the other wheelset I would probably run with them until I have something in the 1600 range .

the X1900 Weigh about 1870 , but at a good price they are an upgrade. I wouldn’t pay the MSRP value for them , but there are deals out there

 
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