[geo2007]

It clicks after I compress the fork, than with pressed front brake, forward+backward the bike. Regarding the preload, I've tried with different stems, to tighten hard or loosy the top cap screw, it doesn't make any big difference.

I also tried with another Rockshox fork, same result ... clicks, clicks ... so the fork was not the problem.

Regarding the backside of the headset cup, the spot where it presses against the frame, the cut is very nice made in the frame, it cuts the welds a little bit ---- I don't see a problem here. The were no space between original headset (and the new one Cane Creek 110) and the frame. My frame is also size medium, but yes, is a very good question if other sizes have the same clicking
sounds.

I think this problem with clicks between the bottom cup headset and the frame is similar with creaking noise on the BB30 where in some frames the bearings are directly pressed into the BB.

I sprayed today some WD-40 specialist silicone inside the headtube on top of the bottom headset cup where it joints, and the noise is a bit louder than before.
Next step will be to use some WD-40 specialist dry lube or specialist penetrant or specialist white lithium grease --- don't know yet, I have to decide what to buy.

I used the WD-40 specialist penetrant but it didn't work, maybe because of the grease that was there when I installed the headset cup, even though I tried to clean it.

Eventually I removed the bottom cup headset, and I found what's exactly the issue ---- the frame bottom headtube is ovalized a little bit, but enough to create the clicking noise (friction between frame lower headtube and headset cup) during front braking or compressing hard the fork.

I hope this will be covered by warranty Specialized, and they will replace the frame, this is a faulty frame in my opinion.

So for all you guys who have issues with a brand new Chisel bike or frame and heare clicks/creaking from the front of the bike, and you eliminate all other possibilities (fork, wheel, brakes, handlebar, stem, spacers, fork crown race) take some time and try to remove the bottom headset cup and measure the inside diameter of the headtube and if it is ok than go to the upper side with similar steps (remove cup and measure).

I hope this will help !
Thank you all for the involvement !

 

[lloydrm]

Got another question. I noticed that sizes below size M are still 29" rather than 27.5". Is there a reason other brands specify 27.5" for smaller frame sizes? Does it not make sense to ride a 29" bike if you're of short stature? I personally have nothing against either diameter, but I am wondering if 29ers are too much to handle for shorter riders. I've only ever ridden a 29er on pavement, but in that scenario it felt perfectly fine.

Frame geometry plays a big roll on how the bike handles on each frame size and with 29 wheels. IMO the Chisel is very well dialed (only issue being it does not have a mech to prevent handlebar hits, but AFAIK only two brands have that) and I am confident the small sizes ride very well with their large wheels. Yeah, other frames have issues sizing up and down. Join the fun. Get your Chisel!

 

[slidey]

Frame geometry plays a big roll on how the bike handles on each frame size and with 29 wheels. IMO the Chisel is very well dialed (only issue being it does not have a mech to prevent handlebar hits, but AFAIK only two brands have that) and I am confident the small sizes ride very well with their large wheels. Yeah, other frames have issues sizing up and down. Join the fun. Get your Chisel!

That's a good point. I have noticed that some frame designs look dramatically different between, say, size S and size L. It must be a combination of what a given brand does to size their frame down, and maybe saving on developmental costs by not figuring out how to fit a 29" wheel set on a size S. Marin was able to fit a 29" wheel set on their size S Team Marin 1, but they took away from the aesthetics of the bike and gave the top tube an odd curvature. The Chisel on the other hand is gorgeous regardless of the size. You'll probably see a "new bike day" reply from me soon.

 

[slidey]

Does anyone know if the hub on a current Chisel's stock rear wheel can be converted with a Micro Spline free hub body? My plan is to purchase a Chisel, but I'd prefer it have a full Shimano group set... and I also really do not want to change out the whole wheel set. I've heard that Specialized uses DT Swiss hubs, but that may only be for their higher end wheel sets. I'm suspecting the Chisel uses Formula hubs, per what I researched. Not sure if those are convertible.

The only alternative I could find is a Garbaruk 12-speed Shimano-compatible HG cassette, but that's 270 USD on its own. I could instead run an 11-speed Shimano cassette w/ a spacer, as that cassette uses the HG standard, but I'd first need to determine if that's enough range for me.

 

[marcoaml78]

only issue being it does not have a mech to prevent handlebar hits,

Just FYI, the size small chisel has no issue with handlebars hitting the top tube. I have a small chisel and can turn the bar all the way with good clearance.

 

[slidey]

View attachment 2025744

New Specialized Chisel build! 10.5KG without pedals, tubeless

I'm curious to know how those DT Swiss wheels are. Is yours the one with or without the LN ratchet system? How do the wheels feel compared to the stock ones, and are they as compliant or are they stiffer? Do they upset the balance of the bike, or is the weight similar? (From what I am reading, the weights seem similar though slightly heavier in front.)

I'm considering picking up a new Chisel soon, but I want to convert it to Shimano, and I am assuming I can't convert the existing hub. I saw online the X1900 wheel set with MicroSpline free hub body and thought it might be a good way to go Shimano. With that said, the set I saw did not include the LN ratchet system, which is about 120 USD as an upgrade. The degrees of engagement for the stock hub is 20 degrees, which seems quite low and I would probably want to change it. What I am wondering is if the wheels are worthwhile. Finally, what else did you do to get the bike down to 10.5KG?

Thanks in advance!

 

[WobbleEye]

Noticed quite a few long seat posts on Chisels exposed - makes me think these are going with smaller size frames?

On XL I end up with 225mm seat post clamp to seat, does this look like the frame is too big for me? Understandably, there are other factors at play, so just from the sizing and proportions' point:

 

[lloydrm]

Noticed quite a few long seat posts on Chisels exposed - makes me think these are going with smaller size frames?

On XL I end up with 225mm seat post clamp to seat, does this look like the frame is too big for me? Understandably, there are other factors at play, so just from the sizing and proportions' point:

View attachment 2060163

Its just that the top tube drops significantly from the head tube. This is VERY good for standing clearance.

 

[lloydrm]

Does anyone know if the hub on a current Chisel's stock rear wheel can be converted with a Micro Spline free hub body? My plan is to purchase a Chisel, but I'd prefer it have a full Shimano group set... and I also really do not want to change out the whole wheel set. I've heard that Specialized uses DT Swiss hubs, but that may only be for their higher end wheel sets. I'm suspecting the Chisel uses Formula hubs, per what I researched. Not sure if those are convertible.

The only alternative I could find is a Garbaruk 12-speed Shimano-compatible HG cassette, but that's 270 USD on its own. I could instead run an 11-speed Shimano cassette w/ a spacer, as that cassette uses the HG standard, but I'd first need to determine if that's enough range for me.

My Chisel came with SLX-Deore. The original wheelset comes with a simple shimano hub. If I wanted a new Chisel and wanted it with all shimano (I like it better, much better brakes, just to name one element), I would either shop the second hand market for one with shimano drivetrain, or get a frame and build up.

 

[slidey]

My Chisel came with SLX-Deore. The original wheelset comes with a simple shimano hub. If I wanted a new Chisel and wanted it with all shimano (I like it better, much better brakes, just to name one element), I would either shop the second hand market for one with shimano drivetrain, or get a frame and build up.

If anyone here has their stock take-off wheel set with Shimano hubs, even just the rear wheel, that would be worth the purchase in my opinion. I can't find a new 2021 Chisel in my size, but I am able to get a current model at a discount that makes it worth the effort of converting to Shimano.

 

[Preso]

What are your thoughts about 100 vs 120 mm travel? Has anyone tried both on the same chisel frame? How afects steering and angle?
I am wandering between the two. Used Raba 100, now running Fox 32 Float SC 100, Difference in the dampening feel is huge. I like the looks of the Sid more and am thinking for going 120. My personal perference is weight and speed, but now i se WC racers are going for 120mm. Is there a big difference?

 

[Jeremy05]

What are your thoughts about 100 vs 120 mm travel? Has anyone tried both on the same chisel frame? How afects steering and angle?
I am wandering between the two. Used Raba 100, now running Fox 32 Float SC 100, Difference in the dampening feel is huge. I like the looks of the Sid more and am thinking for going 120. My personal perference is weight and speed, but now i se WC racers are going for 120mm. Is there a big difference?

I went from 100 to 120 and like the way the bikes rides better. It feels slightly more planted on the trail and did not seem to have any real negative effect on steering. If I recall it slackened the steering angle by about 0.8 degrees. If you are looking for a 120mm SID Select I have a new take off fork that I was going to use for another build that I decided to not go forward with. PM me if your interested.

 

[slidey]

My NOS 2021 chisel size small

View attachment 2054116

2021 chisel SATIN SMOKE / GLOSS TARMAC BLACK
Small

1.RockShox SID SL Select Charger RL Suspension Fork - 29", 100 mm, 15 x 110 mm, 44 mm Offset

2. Bontrager Line Elite MTB Pedals
3. One Up 90mm V2 dropper post and remote

with the above it weighs 25.6lbs. That rs judy silver was a major boat anchor! Found this nos 21 base modeland grabbed it for the all shimano component. Got it for $1600. Super fun fast and nimble bike Compared to my 18 spesh enduro. Only three rides on it so far. The first was pre riding the mammoth pedaalpalooza xc course. Second ride was the race the following day! Solid solid bike!

Where did you find it? I found a NOS 2021 model but it's a comp and is therefore effectively $2,100.

 

[csf]

Where did you find it? I found a NOS 2021 model but it's effectively $2,100.

Showed up in a google search. At Incycles pasadena for 1600.

 

[slidey]

Showed up in a google search. At Incycles pasadena for 1600.

You got lucky. It seems they are sold out of everything but XS.

 

[csf]

You got lucky. It seems they are sold out of everything but XS.

I sure did!

 

[slidey]

.

 

[slidey]

Bought the frame earlier in the year & never got around to building it, finally got it together & have been ripping on it this week.

Mostly a spare parts build:

• Chisel frame - Medium (purchased second hand, previous owner never used it); Ride-Wrapped it (Gloss)
• Sid Select+ 120mm (purchased second hand)
• GX 12spd drivetrain, 10-50t, 175mm cranks (new take-off)
• RaceFace Turbine stem/bars (new take-off)
• PNW grips (parts bin)
• Deore 4-pots (parts bin)
• Specialized Phenom saddle (freebie from a friend)
• DT Swiss M1900 w/ 370 hubs (new take-offs). Added the 54T ratchet; sound clip: DT Swiss 370 with 54t ratchet
• Vittoria Barzo/Mezcal XC-Race 29x2.35's (parts bin)
• Wolftooth dropper lever (parts bin)
• RaceFace Aeffect R dropper (Had to be a new one because the used dropper I had was sticking).

Weighed in at 27.5 lbs as you see it. Not the lightest, but not bad considering I used what parts I had. This thing really eats up singletrack & is a ton of fun. I was thinking about picking up a gravel bike, but may just use this & throw a larger chainring on.

Those are 30mm ID rims, right? I am curious how they feel with 2.35s (which incidentally the stock tires are). Also, did the wheels come with the 36T ratchet or the 18T ratchet?

 

[kramonut]

Those are 30mm ID rims, right? I am curious how they feel with 2.35s (which incidentally the stock tires are). Also, did the wheels come with the 36T ratchet or the 18T ratchet?

Yep, pretty sure they are 30 ID... To be honest, they don't feel great with the 2.35's...it's just not enough tire. I end up having to run more PSI than I'd like to avoid banging the rims...but I'm also heavier at about 215'ish geared up.

Hmm...I can't remember if the hub came w/ the 18 or 36. These were stock wheels that came on my YT Izzo. I dropped in the 54T ratchet.

 

[slidey]

Yep, pretty sure they are 30 ID... To be honest, they don't feel great with the 2.35's...it's just not enough tire. I end up having to run more PSI than I'd like to avoid banging the rims...but I'm also heavier at about 215'ish geared up.

Hmm...I can't remember if the hub came w/ the 18 or 36. These were stock wheels that came on my YT Izzo. I dropped in the 54T ratchet.

Thanks for the reply. I do think I plan on keeping 2.35s, so I guess I'll just run the stock 25mm ID wheels.