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Discussion starter · #41 ·
I still use gasoline because it's so easy to get and cheap. I use the dirty gasoline to start fires in the winter.
We used to mix it with used oil to slow down the ignition speed and make it burn a bit longer. Great kindling substitute.
 
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There is a difference between BENZENE and BENZINE.
Benzene is a nasty chemical known as a cancer causing agent.
Benzine is a hydrocarbon solvent much like gasoline.
Some might want to confirm what they're playing with.
Gasoline is "Benzin" in German, so yeah, there may be confusion. However, gasoline contains benzene, a known carcinogen and triple double-bond hydrocarbon, aka "the benzene ring." So in other words, same thing!

Wiki:
"Benzene is an organic chemical compound with the molecular formula C6H6. The benzene molecule is composed of six carbon atoms joined in a planar hexagonal ring with one hydrogen atom attached to each. Because it contains only carbon and hydrogen atoms, benzene is classed as a hydrocarbon.

Benzene is a natural constituent of petroleum and is one of the elementary petrochemicals. Due to the cyclic continuous pi bonds between the carbon atoms, benzene is classed as an aromatic hydrocarbon. Benzene is a colorless and highly flammable liquid with a sweet smell, and is partially responsible for the aroma of gasoline. It is used primarily as a precursor to the manufacture of chemicals with more complex structures, such as ethylbenzene and cumene, of which billions of kilograms are produced annually. Although benzene is a major industrial chemical, it finds limited use in consumer items because of its toxicity. Benzene is a volatile organic compound.[14]

Benzene is classified as a carcinogen. Its particular effects on human health, such as the long-term results of accidental exposure, have been reported on by news organizations such as The New York Times. For instance, a 2022 article stated that benzene contamination in the Boston metropolitan area caused hazardous conditions in multiple places, with the publication noting that the compound may eventually cause leukemia in some individuals.[15]"

In other words, don't fuckin' use gasoline as a solvent! There are MUCH BETTER choices out there. Mineral spirits and citrus degreaser are good choices. Alcohol is also a good option - a good "finisher" as it leaves no residue. And then there are all sorts of detergents you can use. Still, reduce contact with any solvents or spirits whenever you can. Flammability is a concern with many, so be careful.

Starting fires with gas is stupid. BOOM! Lots of YouTube victims you can watch. If you MUST use an accelerant, lighter fluid is a much better option.
We had a kid in grade school who burned her face severely. Parents left a can of gasoline near the campfire that she got to and she was horrifically scarred for life. Poor thing.

Gasoline? Do you wanna die???
 
I wrote the following on another thread a couple of months ago, I've updated it per your questions
(credit to MSW's instructions & ZFC & Silca)

Where do I start?
  • For simplicity, it's hard to look past the Silca system - Josh has done an amazing job of innovating to make the process quick and simple. The easiest way is the buy the Silca Chain Waxing System, and the Strip Chips, the immersion wax, and some drip wax.
    • N.B. If using a cheap slow cooker, or an Instant Pot as the device for immersion waxing, there's a LOT more that I would write below. BUT, if starting from scratch, I can't see a good reason** to NOT use the temperature controlled Silca device that was specifically developed for chain waxing. Follow the Silca instructions, check out the Silca vids.
      * unless money is really, really tight, which is a different use-case where one would be using a $5 2nd hand slow cooker, Gulf wax, and not topping off with a high quality drip wax.

How do I start?
  • The Slica waxing unit, the strip chip & wax will get you an initially waxed chain OR purchase a pre-waxed chain to make it really easy
    • If you don't want to use the strip chip, Silca & UFO make proven liquid cleaners, and there's the more involved & messy process using degreasers/solvents then alcohol.

  • It's FAR easier to start with a new chain & drivetrain. It's a LOT, LOT of effort to clean a used chain (~3-4 litres of solvent to fully clean one...!!), it's a bit of effort to clean a used cassette, though it's easy to clean mechs & chainrings.

What if I have an ultrasonic cleaner
  • I don't do this...see the videos from ZFC and Silca. Here are some that I've seen:
    • Should I use a UC to wax?
    • How to clean using a UC?
  • The cleaning process should result in extremely clean chain with dry, metallic, loose feel. Your chain should not feel tacky or sticky to the touch.

What immersion wax do I use?
  • MSW OR Silca OR Rex.
    • A 'single application' will last longer if additional "special chips" are added to the Silca or Rex waxes.

What drip wax do I use to top off the immersion wax?
  • Silca drip OR UFO drip (some people e.g. in Colorado have a better experience with UFO)

How long between re-waxings?
How to wax?
How to clean after the initial waxing...do I even need to clean?

  • Some start with an immersion waxed chain, then top off with some drip wax a few times, then re-immersion wax.
    • If using drip wax, it needs to be applied the night before a rid in order for the 'carrier' to evaporate.
      • I don't "top off", but if I did, I'd probably start by doing it about halfway to the number of hours before I re-immersion waxed. e.g. If I immersion waxed at 6 hours, I'd top off at 3 hours.

  • Otherwise, re-immersion wax when the chain starts to squeak/sound dry, which might be ~6->10 hours
    • If the chain is re-waxed with a good amount of wax still in it, it can be wiped with a microfibre cloth then rewaxed.
    • Else, if the wax treatment is low, and dirt may have found its way inside, then either:
      1. clean it via pouring some boiling water over the chainring while rotataing the cranks, or,
      2. clean it via giving it a few rounds of dunking it in a pot of hot water & swishing it around on a bend coat-hanger... MSW sell a great swisher. Wax melts at ~60 degrees C, or,
      3. clean it by pre-waxing using the 2-pot method; dunk the chain into the first wax pot, swish it around and most of the contaminants will exit, then dunk it into the 2nd pot. This is a great method for the time poor. If Gulf wax was used in the first pot, it would make it easy & cheap to keep this first pot clean by replacing the wax often.
      4. N.B: A dirty chain can put put straight into the wax post, but, the wax will have to be renewed sooner. This is also a great method for the time poor

Installing an immersion-waxed chain
  • Once waxed off the bike, the dried wax on the chain will stop the links from moving against each other (you might be able to hold the chain in front of you like a sword!!). So, the ‘immobilized links’ need to mobilized so that the chain can be easily installed. There are several ways to do this, some are: running the chain over a protected round hand-rail, or a piece of dowel in a vice, or whatever clever way you devise.
  • For a 1x narrow-wide chainring, it's necessary to push the chain down on the chainring with your hand one complete rotation of the entire chain length to push out excess wax from between the inner links. Once the wax has been pushed out the chain and teeth will mesh properly and efficiently.

Waxing and water
  • Also, if a chain is wet at the end of a ride, dry it with a microfibre cloth to prevent it from rusting. If the chain has been around enough water for dirty/gritty water to get inside the chain, clean the chain off the bike by swishing it around in some hot water (per above).
  • Some people don't have success with wax if their environment is wet, other have no issue. It seems to be a regional issue.

Quicklinks
  • Yes, if you take the chain off the bike, quicklinks are a factor. Wipperman make ones that can be used indefinitely. SRAM & Shimano can be used until they no longer "snap" into place (typically 5-6 times). YBN & KMC make multi-use ones.
  • The quick link doesn't need to be waxed.
    • IF you wax the quick-link, when installing it, push the pin on the master link through chain link hole a time or two to clean wax out of hole. Note how wax can collect in groove on end of pin; remove with fingernail. It is also important to rotate each master link halve back and forth against chain inner links a few times (use some force here) to smoothen and flatten wax layers between two links. Doing so will make it easier to lock the master link into place.

Can I mix brands of waxes?
  • High-end waxes can be mixed e.g. top-off Silca immersion wax with UFO drip.
  • The cheaper, less effective, less pure, lubes such as Squirt & Smoove can be applied over the better waxes, but, the chain should ideally be cleaned before re-immerision waxing . Cheaper "slack" waxes contain much more oil...so over time use will "pollute" the pot of immersion wax.

Should I have more than one chain per bike?
  • Some swear by it, I have at least 2 chains per bike.
  • It makes it easy to swap in a fresh chain if one needs to ride before re-waxing, or if road-tripping
  • Also, rotating 2 or 3 chains means that the cassette lasts for 2-3 chains, because they wear together. If only using 1 chain, this won't be an issue IFF the chain is replaced well before it's too worn....BUT, given how expensive high-end cassette's are...rotating 2-3 chains is cheap insurance.
  • The more expensive the cassette, the more chains I'd rotate...they're cheap relative to the cassette.

Wax build up over time on the cassette & chainring & pulleys
  • I generally ignore the buildup on the chainring
  • I wipe the the pulleys occasionally
  • BUT...
    ...some wax build-up can occur in valley between two smallest cassette cogs (for example, between 10 and 12 tooth cogs. Inspect this area each time you install a freshly waxed chain. If you see wax beginning to accumulate here, simply scrape off with toothpick (toothpick won’t scratch surface minimizing potential for rust). Over time, wax build-up in this area can cause shifting issues.

What else?
  • If you use the Silca system, there's not much more to it.
  • If I've forgotten something, someone else will add it if I don't come back
  • Here's a doc I prepared back in 2020, based on MSW's instructions, and using a slow cooker, and solvents to clean the chain. It has some some great additional info that's good background context in the era of Silca Simplicity. PDF also supplied for those who are security conscious

* Here's a video about a X01 chain on a gravel bike that was replaced at 15,000km, but it still had life in it... It was lubed with Silca wax

** ZeroFriction Cycling is a resource, the website and on YouTube. He's produced great data on wear-life and cost-to-run. See the tables in the 2nd half of this page...they're not as easy to read as they could be...you may remember that Josh has made a few vids about how to interpret Adam's data...though Adam has stepped up since :)
 
I wrote the following on another thread a couple of months ago, I've updated it per your questions
This is excellent and should be a sticky post. Do we do that here? I do have one minor suggestion on the installing waxed chain section, instead of saying “break the links” just explain that the wax will make the chain stiff and it needs to be worked to loosen it up. I can see a newbie thinking chain break tool here.
 
This is excellent and should be a sticky post. Do we do that here? I do have one minor suggestion on the installing waxed chain section, instead of saying “break the links” just explain that the wax will make the chain stiff and it needs to be worked to loosen it up. I can see a newbie thinking chain break tool here.
Good find…thinking from the end-users perspective, even better if the end-user is inexperienced. I’ve edited to incorporate your feedback 👍
 
Way to go, PuddleDuck! Impressive! Thanks.

Critique: "3-4 liters" to clean a dirty chain?
Nah, not at all. I think that's total overkill. I've had really good luck using four solvent baths of about 16 oz. of solvent in each.
1 initial mineral spirits bath. This gets dirty.
Second mineral spirits bath. Gets less dirty.
Initial 91% isopropyl alcohol bath. Gets dirty.
Second 91% isopropyl alcohol bath. Stays pretty clean.

I blow out the chain with compressed air between baths. This does a good job dislodging a lot of gunk so you aren't re-introducing it to your bath(s). Oh and I obviously wipe down the chain before even submerging. I've even used Q-Tips to get the accumulated gunk out from between the link plates. That helps reduce the solvents I need to use.

I let my baths sit for a few days so I can extract the clear liquid from the gunk collected on the bottom. Just common sense that allows me to use less solvents overall.

I do admit looking forward to the day when I've finally converted the family's collection of bikes over to wax. To not have to deal with dirty chains will be really, really nice.

I'd add one caveat: don't let this lengthy, impressive, detail-filled post intimidate you.

It's just wax!
Get the grease off you chain and soak it in hot wax!
Sure, there are a few details to know.
And yes, it's good to do it right.
But ultimately, it's pretty straightforward.

I made my own home-brew wax mixture of candle wax and tungsten and molybdenum disulfide powders. $40 for a lifetime supply of wax. I did, however, order some higher-grade Gulf food-grade wax for my next recipe.

So it doesn't even have to be expensive at all.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
I don't own a charcoal grill. I keep a quart of lighter fluid in the Expy. And burn the fire nice and hot, with a couple rounds of fresh sticks, before the marshmallows and Graham crackers roast.
You know they kick you out of Idaho for not owning a real BBQ. Commie.
 
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Discussion starter · #52 · (Edited)
I know it is hard to imagine, but this went from simple to, well I have gone this far, better do it right. As such, I went looking to see what I had to use for containers and heating the wax. Great, turns out we have spare canning jars I can use for solvents and degreaser. Oh yeah, have a mini crockpot that don't use, so money saved there too. Then it happened:
  • Better get some mineral spirits. It costs twice as much for a gallon instead of a quart. There goes $22.
  • Well need something to rinse the mineral spirits and my chemist son insists that Acetone is the right choice. $24 a gallon, because again, it is $12 a quart.
  • Oh yea, my mini crock pot doesn't get hot enough, so an adjustable temp wax holder from Amazon. $25.
  • Can't forget the Silca wax. $42.
  • Can' forget the secret drip wax for in between. $25.
  • Better buy some paint filters so those cleaners last long. $9.
Well at least I already have a bunch of citrus degreaser for the cassette, derailleur and chainring. I suppose for about $250 all in including a 10l ultrasonic cleaner, I shouldn't be too unhappy. Assuming it works well, should last year across all the bikes.
 
Way to go, PuddleDuck! Impressive! Thanks.

Critique: "3-4 liters" to clean a dirty chain?
Nah, not at all. I think that's total overkill. I've had really good luck using four solvent baths of about 16 oz. of solvent in each.
1 initial mineral spirits bath. This gets dirty.
Second mineral spirits bath. Gets less dirty.
Initial 91% isopropyl alcohol bath. Gets dirty.
Second 91% isopropyl alcohol bath. Stays pretty clean.

I blow out the chain with compressed air between baths. This does a good job dislodging a lot of gunk so you aren't re-introducing it to your bath(s). Oh and I obviously wipe down the chain before even submerging. I've even used Q-Tips to get the accumulated gunk out from between the link plates. That helps reduce the solvents I need to use.

I let my baths sit for a few days so I can extract the clear liquid from the gunk collected on the bottom. Just common sense that allows me to use less solvents overall.

I do admit looking forward to the day when I've finally converted the family's collection of bikes over to wax. To not have to deal with dirty chains will be really, really nice.

I'd add one caveat: don't let this lengthy, impressive, detail-filled post intimidate you.

It's just wax!
Get the grease off you chain and soak it in hot wax!
Sure, there are a few details to know.
And yes, it's good to do it right.
But ultimately, it's pretty straightforward.

I made my own home-brew wax mixture of candle wax and tungsten and molybdenum disulfide powders. $40 for a lifetime supply of wax. I did, however, order some higher-grade Gulf food-grade wax for my next recipe.

So it doesn't even have to be expensive at all.
Hi TB, thanks for your compliment.

You are spot on that it doesn't have to be expensive. I started with inexpensive food-grade wax, and an inexpensive slow cooker, and re-using coffee jars for doing my cleaning.

I tried to keep the process as simple as possible by offering tips to remove uncertainly, and by "chucking down" the elements. I tried to "lower the bar" to action. Hence, From my perspective, for someone who states that they don't want to read too much, and wants to keep things simple, dealing with used chains is a rabbit warren that raises the bar to action (especially compared to using a strip chip).

As background, the context in which I wrote what I did is that I'm very wary of polluting my expensive wax, and that affecting 8+ chains for 4 other bikes...

Our differing experiences in "cleaning" used chains, and the many other things I mention below are why I'd recommend that the inexperienced start with a new chain if they don't wish to do a LOT of reading & research beforehand.
This is especially true if they are space limited.
This is especially true if they're using expensive wax.
This is especially true if they want simplicity.

One reason that I didn't mention for starting with new is that if there's any water in a chain, and it's left to soak for long enough in mineral spirits, hydrogen embrittlement will occur....and the chain will probably break under load...

As an aside, I let new chains soak, and I leave them on top of an active clothes washer to give them some free agitation 😎
...I've even considered putting them on top of the engine cover of my car...never done it though. 🤔​

Another reason is that chain wear isn't linear due to the hard/special coatings on chains. A chain might be half worn in 1000 miles, but fully worn in the next 500 miles....so unless the chain is almost brand new, and is expensive, it's probably not worth cleaning it.

Another reason is that the amount of cleaning required will vary with:
  • the brand of chain,
  • how old it is (which impacts on how rough the internal surfaces are...the rougher they are the more surface area for crud to stick to...the longer that "cleaning" will take),
  • what cleaning was done previously, and
  • what lube(s) were used previously.

Anyway, how did I clean my used chains?
What does clean mean to me?

  1. I used the MSW method in the linked doc in my post.
  2. My chains were never initially stripped, were lubed with BeoShield T9, and were cleaned regularly with a Park Tool scrubber.
  3. I scrubbed used chains in a pan to remove the exterior gunk, then did
  4. I used multiple solvent baths, wiping the chain between baths, until wiping the chain left almost no residue on the rag.
  5. It took 3-4 litres of solvents (which aligns with ZFC's experience), and the whole process took hours
Aside from the fact that it was a leaning experience, it was a waste of time and money for the over half worn 9 and 10 speed chains on my old bikes


SO, from my perspective, there are too many variables and complications to make "cleaning" used chains SIMPLE for the user...
...where one of the criticisms of waxing is that it's too complicated, takes too long, and needs too much dedicated equipment.
THIS is why I am such a huge fan of Silca's approach, Josh solves problems that users didn't even realise that they had...which is gold standard product innovation.
 
Even more great info, PuddleDuck. Thanks!

I understand and appreciate that chain wear is non-linear. Once the hard surface is compromised or gone and the bearings are worn, wear happens faster and faster. This is why it's recommended to switch to wax with a fresh chain. I get this.

However, I'm switching 20+ bikes over to wax. Three have 2 1/2 chains, so that's 25 chains I'd have to replace. And most of them are on the very low to brand new wear condition spectrum. Not throwing away $875 ($35 each, being generous) worth of chains just to "start 100% fresh."

That being said, my mountain chain was at halfway through its wear life when I switched last June. 1/32" stretch in 12". And even though I have a few brand new replacements on hand to use, I decided to continue using it.

Yesterday it was time for another wax. So before removing it, I measured it: 1/32" wear. So in over nine months of use, it hasn't elongated any since switching to wax. And in that time, I waxed the chain 3-4 times. So at "worst," that's 2.25 months between waxing. And to be clear, I add no drip-on lube in-between. Seems silly to go to all that trouble (again, part of my motivation is to get away from the "post-ride chain maintenance double-step" in the first place!). I admit that I haven't put as many miles on the bike over the last nine months, but it's still noteworthy.
 
Might want to revisit the Mineral Spirits assumption
Not that I'm leaving my chains in spirits for weeks, but are you saying there's no issue with hydrogen embrittement with them? I guess I can just Google...

"While some degreasers and petrols may cause hydrogen embrittlement, the consensus is that mineral spirits are generally okay to use 12. In Australia, mineral turpentine is considered organic and will not cause hydrogen embrittlement if left for a long soak 34. Mineral spirits are a low toxicity solvent that doesn't cause hydrogen embrittlement, is easily recycled, and leaves little film behind 4.
Hydrogen embrittlement is the reduction in a metal's ductility due to absorbed hydrogen 5. Hydrogen atoms can permeate solid metals, lowering the stress required for cracks to initiate and propagate, resulting in embrittlement 56."

(y)
 
oz cycle is kinda the OG chain waxer, I think his video from a month ago pretty much covers everything learned over the past few years quite in depth.


For the chain prep part, you don't need to buy the silca strip chip to simply dump a new chain in a wax pot and it magically comes out prepped and waxed. It's just stearic acid.
 
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