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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I recently got a new bike with 1x10 drivetrain. With my old bike and 2x10 setup, when riding trails with rolling hills, as I approach a transition I shift up two gears to build momentum and then switch the chainring from big to small and I'm able to keep my momentum and fly up the hill.

With my new 1x10 bike, with a single ring up front, I'm just down shifting several gears at the beginning of the hill. I usually lose my momentum and have to mash to get momentum back. Am I doing something wrong or this part of the 1x experience?

Also my 2x10 bike is a 30lbs 140 travel trail bike. My 1x10 bike is a 33lbs 160 travel AM bike. This is probably a big factor too.
 
not sure what drivetrain you're using as you conveniently didn't reveal that information,

however, you can downshift two gears at once on any modern 1x11 drivetrain out there, just press the lever a bit further with your thumb to make full use of its capabilities. I don't see any other options here apart from riding more forward looking and shift ready before a steep accent arrises instead of being surprised and loosing momentum.

I doubt that weight is a real issue here apart from maybe your own weight of course
 
shifting on the front of a 2x10 is like going up or down about 4 gears if you have an 11-36 cassette. more if you have 11-34 or 11-32.

steel calf is right.

it seems very likely you can downshift 2-3 gears at once with your 1x11. do it one pedal stroke before you normally would, and then do it again if necessary.

probably, the seat tube angle is less steep on the new bike, and possibly the front end is higher. things like that can make climbing harder as well.
 
With my new 1x10 bike, with a single ring up front, I'm just down shifting several gears at the beginning of the hill. I usually lose my momentum and have to mash to get momentum back. Am I doing something wrong or this part of the 1x experience?
I think it's just a matter of timing and 'getting used to' period. If you think you're shifting and pedaling is smooth from a 2x10, get the gear that you're using there and compare it with the 1x and aim for it. Again it boils down to correct timing and looking ahead even if you got the gears right as you might need to shift down several gears in a 1x compared to a 2x.

in my case my shifter (m8000) can shift down up to 4 gears in one push, but i only spend up to a max of 3 but very rarely (ie unprepared most of the time). i do shifts by 2's most of the time and just add 1 more depending on how much energy is left :p

i have to admit that i sometimes shift lazily (still) even if i am already using 1x. so i just stand up some long'sh/short'sh steep'sh segments (even if ridable sitting down) and just shift later on specially on non-racing non-event days when i just want to push myself.

fwiiw, one of the reasons why i moved to 1x is yea, i'm lazy on shifting.
 
Whether SRAM or Shimano, you should be able to shift multiple cogs up the cassette with one deep push. If I'm transitioning from down to up...I usually move two cogs up to keep momentum. Then move up one at a time till I find my cadence or till I'm at the end of the cassette. Once I crest...I'll fast click three or four times to get me into the middle of the cassette.

When I had my 2x, I'd have to drop into the small ring...then shift the back down the cassette a few clicks to keep my legs from spinning out.
 
I don't see how there is any shifting technique required with 1x...you just push the lever and it goes (that is the "simplicity" of it). "Technique" was always about dealing with a f. der. and the dance you had to do that was described above...a few in the back before dumping the front....which is the whole point of going 1x....which is why 1x is so popular.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Ironically I am smoother with a 2x. But it's not apples to apples. My beast of an AM bike with sticky tires isnt going to accelerate like my trail bike. Getting used to that fact. Thanks guys, I was just checking.
 
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