I use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer. You can remove the crown race by getting under it with the screwdriver and gently working it up. Install I take the screwdriver and just hammer it down very lightly around the inside edge of the crown race.

 

you can make a bearing press with a length of threaded rod, fender washers and nuts.

removal? cut four parallel cuts on one end of a pipe with an angle grinder.

 

^ You're thinking headsets, that does work fine for headsets.

A sharp knife works a little better than a screwdriver, it gets more surface under the race to pry it off. You can tweak the race and gouge up the fork with a screwdriver pretty easily, but it does work if you're careful. I prefer using a knife.

 

^ You're thinking headsets, that does work fine for headsets.

A sharp knife works a little better than a screwdriver, it gets more surface under the race to pry it off. You can tweak the race and gouge up the fork with a screwdriver pretty easily, but it does work if you're careful. I prefer using a knife.

You are correct. I missed that.

I removed a crown race with a screw driver. The advice above is correct. I would add, a dull knife works better than a screwdriver to start the job.

Tap in the knife between the fork crown and the race to get the it up the steerer enough to slip in a screw driver. Otherwise, you may scratch the paint on the fork crown. Tap the race off, do not pry it by twisting the screw driver.

Use grease to install a new race.

 

I use utility knife blades and a small hammer. I put the utility blades in by tapping them with a hammer, on opposing sides of the crown. Then I create more space by stacking them on top of each other...Works great and they are very thin and flexible..unlike hardened screwdriver tips which can snap easily.

 

Flat screwdriver only and the palm of my hand. Never had an issue.

 

To set a crown race, get a bit of 4x2 longer than the fork vertical, and put the base of the crown on top (so the dropouts don't touch the ground).

Next, put the race on the fork, then get two smaller bits of wood (1x2, 12 inches long or similar). Hold them with one hand with each resting on the race with the steerer in between. (Gently) whack the ends alternately with a hammer. It will seat the race perfectly without warping as the wood will deform before the metal race.

Hope this makes sense, will try to get photos if needed.

C

 

to set the race, i typically use a PVC pipe that fits barely the OD of the steer tube, with a PVC cap on the end, set the race by hand and then tap down on the PVC pipe until the race sits flush to the crown

 

:thumbsup:
That's my method too. Removal with a screwdriver and patience as others have recommended.

 

Hammer + thin flat screwdriver to pop it off, and a PVC pipe to set it back in place worked for me just fine.

And removing it was pretty easy, I fail to see how the previous owner managed to scratch up the CSU so bad with my last used fork purchase.

 

If you do go the screwdriver route, try to alternate tapping on each side, so that you slowly work the race up evenly. Also, be careful not to drive the screwdriver into the steerer tube, especially if the ST is aluminum. I've seen someone gouge one to the point where it looked unsafe (potential stress riser) to ride.

-D

 

Thin screwdriver and light tapping around race to remove. PVC pipe to install. Works great but use a little finess, its not a monster truck.

 

Screwdrive rto remove, PVC pipe to install.

Get a length of PVC that is a couple inches longer than the steerer.
Set the crown race by hand, put the PVC pipe over the steerer, turn the fork upsidedown and by grabbing it by the crown or stanchion tubes slam (carefully) the PVC pipe/steerer on the floor until perfect flush.

No potential damage to anything on the fork or crown race.

 

Use a little household or kitchen torch to heat up the race. This will make it expand and very easy to remove or install. Clean and fast.

Not to much heat, wear gloves and use pliers to hold. No joke!

 

Use a little household or kitchen torch to heat up the race. This will make it expand and very easy to remove or install. Clean and fast.

Not to much heat, wear gloves and use pliers to hold. No joke!

Not a bad idea heating it up, not sure I like the idea of torching my fork though. A malet and putty knife have worked well for me as well. Need a much larger PVC pipe for the larger 1.5" steerer though

 

Good tips! Not my thread, but this will help me out next week! :thumbsup:

 

screwdriver

I like the screwdriver/hammer removal, and pvc pipe assembly method. Looks like many satisfied customers do as well.

 

I'm happy that we all find our little ways to do the things that we love. It would be a boring world if we all had to follow protocol. Cheers, I'll grab an other little glass of Talisker whiskey on that (friday night 22:11 up here, so it's ok). Ride hard tomorrow boys and girls!

 

Honestly the the pvc pipe is the easiest, most damage proof way I've ever used.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

 

Honestly the the pvc pipe is the easiest, most damage proof way I've ever used.

I agree on the PVC pipe. That is also what I use to install a crown race. I am referring to removing the crown race with a brass punch.

I remove the crown race with a brass punch. Since brass is softer than steel, it will not mess anything up when removing.

 

I was on this thread last night and didn't have anything mentioned on here available. I ended up using 2 wood clamps on each side and it went on really easy.

 

I used a butter knife with the pvc pipe as a mallet / hammer to get it started, then a screwdriver with the same pvc pipe as a mallet / hammer. Removed with no damage to the fork.

 

Just tried the razor blade trick to remove the crown race. You guys are awesome! Works well.

 

Yup, I use the utility razor blades until I can get a flat blade driver in there, then use the razor blade to protect the crown as I lever the race off, little by little. No marks on the crown and race...and use the screw driver to tap in the razor blades.

Used to use 2x4s to set race, but recently paid a visit to Home Depot for some PVC...$1.50 later, setting crown race is a 15 sec job.

 

I've installed a few crown races by cutting them on one side with a jeweler's saw. Slides on (or off) easily without tools, and the angular part of the lower bearing race keeps it solid and play-free when everything is assembled and pre-loaded.

 

Yup, I think most of the headset guys have figured out split races are the way to go, especially with all the screw ups bashing away with a hammer and screwdriver. This thread has been entertaining if nothing else...

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

Older thread, but very helpful! Anybody see a problem using a hair dryer to warm the race before popping it off? It might be easier to control the heat compared to a torch, and doesn't get that hot.

 

Yes old but useful thread. After scratching my head on how to get off the bottom pressed bearing race I decided search was my friend. The advice about the razor blade (used the blade from a utility knife) was the trick, warmed the race up just a bit with a torch and a few taps of the hammer on the blade jarred it loose. When I put it back on I heated it back up and it just dropped into place.

 

Had luck with the techniques described here last time I replaced a fork, but not so much today.

Was trying to remove the old race from my son's fork, but instead of sliding underneath the crown race the blades just chipped / dented (even tried heating up the race).

Any additional tricks to try, or should I just give up and take this one in to the shop?

 

I've had good luck using a thin blade putty knife to slide under the crown race. Make sure the end of the putty knife blade is sharp. You can tap the handle of the putty knife with a plastic mallet.

 

Couldn't find any putty knives with a sharp enough edge, but was eventually able to clamp it down in a vise and get it started with a hammer & chisel.

At least the new race is split, so that was much easier going on (and should be much easier if I need to take it off).

 

I didn't realize you had a new CR. I thought you were trying to save the old CR to use on another fork. Glad you were able to get it off.