Lmk how it works for you as I'd like to try it in my m8120 also.

 

I can't see how it would cause a problem, it is just oil after all.

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Sub'd

 

Greeting from Osaka (near Sh!tmano town).

I switched to to Red Line "Like Water" for my BR-M8020 and BR-M7000 this spring...For 8 months no problems for me, I can still feel "bit" better lever response and not "so much" wandering bite point.
If I can find any Putoline HPX 2.5wt I'd like to try it, but so far I have no complains for "Like Water".

-Aki

 

I got likewater installed in my rear brake last night. I made a huge mess of things but it hasn't exploded yet. I'll keep you all updated after the first ride.

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First ride with the fluid had a super steep 15 minute sustained downhill. Nothing exploded and I had no fade. I'll need some more time, but I don't think the bite point really changed.

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What method are you using to bleed your brakes? I used to use the syringe method on my Shimano setup but was still getting the wandering bite point sometimes.

I came across a YouTube video where the syndicate showed how they do a gravity bleed - complete with making a mess all over the caliper to help lubricate the pistons.

Tried it and that set has not had bite point issues . Eventually did the gravity bleed on the three other sets of bikes I maintain and have had the same result - wandering brake point gone.

Maybe I just got lucky - don't know. But if it wanders again I will consider trying the redline solutions.

 

I used the method in Shimanos manual. I would bet that a bubble free bleed is easier with redline because it is so thin that the bubbles move quicker.

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Is it being so thin that it causes all the messes?

 

No, forgetting the bleed block and pushing the piston out of the caliper causes all the messes... That and the srynge tubing slipping off of the caliper.
It was a disaster all around.

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Rear brakes (8120) were wondering on yesterday's ride. It was about 50*F. Got home and ordered Redline LikeWater. Should be here Monday. Can't wait to try it to see if it reduces the wondering bite point.

 

Flushed and bled both front and rear brakes with Redline Like Water and on today's ride (50°F), no wandering bite point. The brakes never entered into my mind once I left the parking lot, which means the levers felt as they should had been from the beginning.
I did a gravity bleed and then a syringe from the caliper up to the lever into the funnel.
Time will tell how it holds up.

 

Update: Mine haven't exploded yet.

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They still haven't exploded.

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My brake finally exploded! I have a leak in the master cylinder of my rear brake. I only bled the rear with likewater. The front brake used Shimano fluid and is fine. Did the likewater cause it? Who knows!
Now I'm going saint.

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Seeing as they eventually do that with shimano fluid and that it’s due to the scoring of the master cylinder bore, unlikely. Eventually your saints will fail at the MC too.

 

I couldn't find a right xt 8120 lever anywhere so I bought a xtr9120 lever instead. I'm pretty excited at all the free speed I'll get due to the lower weight.

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rain--- did you use redline likewater in the new 8120?

 

rain--- did you use redline likewater in the new 8120?

I put redline fluid in the 8120 brakes back in dec 2020. I have not gotten my new 9120 lever yet, but I will probably just use Shimano fluid first to see if I have a pump up problem.

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doohh... I meant your 9120... I just setup my shigura's last night with redline LW... Before i used the Putoline HPX R 2.5w ... Worked great.. But just thought id try out the redline..

 

OK so after riding my ripmo around with shigura's and redline front brake and putoline in the rear... So far.. I cant really tell a difference between the two.. Maybe a VERYYYYYY slight faster feeling pull/return on the fronts.. But i could also just have it in my mind that it should be faster because its 0 weight vs 2.5 , and that is all im sensing.. One thing im hoping/thinking is that the redline (being synthetic) might be able to handle heat a bit better due to the fact that its synthetic... Time will tell..

As for wandering bite point... Im very familiar with it and i noticed no wbp on either the putoline or the redline..

also.. just a fyi-- i put mtx pads on (red front and gold rear) and these pads really have very good power and good bite, without toooooo much bite... Others have said the same thing-- im just adding to the consensus..

 

OK so after riding my ripmo around with shigura's and redline front brake and putoline in the rear... So far.. I cant really tell a difference between the two.. Maybe a VERYYYYYY slight faster feeling pull/return on the fronts.. But i could also just have it in my mind that it should be faster because its 0 weight vs 2.5 , and that is all im sensing.. One thing im hoping/thinking is that the redline (being synthetic) might be able to handle heat a bit better due to the fact that its synthetic... Time till well..

As for wandering bite point... Im very familiar with it and i noticed no wbp on either the putoline or the redline..

also.. just a fyi-- i put mtx pads on (red front and gold rear) and these pads really have very good power and good bite, without toooooo much bite... Others have said the same thing-- im just adding to the consensus..

Rear brakes are always less crisp IME due to the longer lines.

 

I thought the magura brake lines were 5.5mm and kevlar lined.. So they are supposed to be pretty good lines.. That is why your supposed to use the magura barb on shiguras-- cause the shimano is only 5mm -- so the barbs can push out..

Also.. I needed to order up a new magura brake hose with the banjo on it... 70 bucks.... I realized i could order a whole mt30 brake for 94$.. So for 24 bucks i ended up with a extra mt5 caliper/pads/olive and barb (as well as a master cylinder albeit mt30 mc)... Seemed like a good way to go..

 

Why would the bleed method fix or cause Shimano's wondering bite point problem?