[AMCAT]

Yea the ring selection is questionable for sure- I tried to stick with Shimano to avoid any additional variables, and they may not be ultra bling but they should do-

I hope you don't run into spacing issues, not a huge issue but not ideal either, I saw in this thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=615985

Here is a summary...

"Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ-X
You could try the TA Specialites rings 42t middle and 28t inner for under $100 for a 64/104 BCD crank. I've spoken to the Blackspire people directly and they say that the SuperPro 970 rings in 28t are spaced specifically for Shimano M970 cranks. They won't play nice with others because the spacing and offset is different on that crankset than other 64/104 cranks including all of the others in Shimano's range. Sucks, but the guy I talked to really recommended against it.

He also said that they will be making 2x9 rings later this year to match SRAMs new offerings."

"QUOTE by Fishlips"

That may explain my problem. I think my shifting/chain-suck woes are all caused by too big of a space between the chainrings.

Any good source for TA Specialties rings in the U.S.?"

This is a more specific explanation of my issue... (crosspost from another 2X9 thread)

I ran into an issue where the 26T granny ends up too close to the middle ring and will not let the chain sit on it properly- the carbon reinforcement and ramp overlapped the teeth on the smaller ring. At first I though it was because of the odd matching to the 32T middle (while I was waiting on the 36T) but it does the same thing with the 36T. I had some spacers for chainring bolts laying around and put them between the crank and ring... I just did it last night and have yet to give it a proper test but it seemed to offer a decent range up on the stand... some chain rub on the FD in the extremes.

Oddly Fishlips spacing was "too big" on the 970's VS mine was too close... at closer inspection the XT 26T ring has a slightly different offset than any of the 22T or 24T shimano 9spd rings I have... odd.

Good luck with the set-up- I took mine for a quick spin around the block and the gearing felt pretty good- I hope to try the trail this week-

yhea ran inot the same problem last year on a 2x9 xtr convert,I use a xtr grannie ring and the chain would get stuck between the small and middle ring..I picked up a 24t xtr ring and the problem was sloved.....how do the 9speed rings work with the 10 speed chain ??

 

[knottshore]

yhea ran inot the same problem last year on a 2x9 xtr convert,I use a xtr grannie ring and the chain would get stuck between the small and middle ring..I picked up a 24t xtr ring and the problem was sloved.....how do the 9speed rings work with the 10 speed chain ??

I'm guessing you mean you changed to a 24T XT ring and solved your spacing issue?

Up front the 9 speed cranks/rings work without a snag, the internal spacing is not changed to my knowledge so as long as you run the 9 spd front derailleur with the 9 speed crankset/rings thinks seem to mesh no problem. I actually did the rear 10 speed conversion and put some rides on it with the stock 9spd XTR cranks/rings prior to modding the chainrings to make sure it worked well and I was not opening too many cans of worms at once.

 

[AMCAT]

My $0.02:

I mentioned above I have a hardtail 1x9, 32T x 11-34T, and a dualie triple 44-32-22T x 11-34T.

The 1x9 proved to me I didn't really "need" a 44T for my style of riding, plus it kept hitting or scraping obstacles, so I decided to convert the triple to a double. Removed the 44T and added bolt spacers, and replaced the 32T with 36t and the 22T with 24T.

BUT, I found after only 2 rides I hated the 36-24 set up. I was used to riding the 32T most of the time on the triple and all of the time on the 1x9. With a 36T, I had to shift the front der. too much. Shifting the front der. on a mtb is a PIA.

So I changed the triple to bash-32-22, and that is perfect for that bike and my fitness level. I only need to shift the front on the steepest and longest of hills. Otherwise, I'm comfy in the 32T. Plus, clearance is so much better with 32T than a 44T.

I'm right with ya....1x10 / 32x36 is the hot ticket if you dont live wheres its to flat or an x.c. racer

 

[AlexRandall]

God that looks cold!! Luckily our trails never really get snowbound....but we're having the wettest summer I can remember so they're mudbound when usually they're dusty.

 

[knottshore]

God that looks cold!! Luckily our trails never really get snowbound....but we're having the wettest summer I can remember so they're mudbound when usually they're dusty.

Actually not to bad that day, upper 20's and rising with not too much wind- the week before it was somwhere in the upper teens to low 20's and not buding upward, and the wind chill was making it feel worse... noses and digets can get a bit cold for sure. Nice thing is it keeps the muck frozen if you get out before the sun has a chance to turn the top layer into a slip and slide-

 

[Mr Pink57]

On the subject of the granny gear does the newer XT cranks have this small ring? I noticed the the small 26t ring is thicker to one side, while say on my other set (LX) it's a generic steel 26t.

 

[knottshore]

On the subject of the granny gear does the newer XT cranks have this small ring? I noticed the the small 26t ring is thicker to one side, while say on my other set (LX) it's a generic steel 26t.

Well, the 26T rings on 9SPD are not too comon from what I have seen, but I think the difference is that the xt have recessed holes rather than just butting up against the crank arm.

You know what they say about a picture....

 

[frdfandc]

I just installed a set of 26/36 XT chain rings on my SLX crank. The 26t XT chainring is a tad thicker, but the chain ring bolt holds have a recess in them. And the middle ring is a little bit larger in the spider area, but the bolt holes line up perfectly.

Here is what I went from, with included weights.

Standard SLX 9 speed crank 22-32-42 - 795 grams

Removed all the SLX chainrings, installed XT chain rings 26-36T with a Race Face bash guard.

Total weight - 795 grams.

Even though the bash guard is heavier than the 44T chainring by 24 grams, the rest is made up by going with XT chain rings.

 

[knottshore]

After a bunch of playing with gearing and debating if a dedicated 2X crankset would make sense for me I decided to get a 10Speed 3X set-up with 104bcd. For some riders depending on the bike (mine is a 29er so it plays a part in my gearing thoughts), the trails and the fitness level a dedicated 2X has huge potential, for others it may not be the best suited; for what it is worth here is my take:

- A 36T "big/middle" ring was ok to push(still not as versatile as a 32T IMO), problem is most 2X go to a 39T or so "big" ring which might be fine on my HT or "some" of my trails but I like to keep my options open depending on where I am riding especially on a bike that I take on a wide variety of trails.

- 104BCD has 22T, 24T, 26T granny rings available and 32T, 34T, 36T and some 38-39 T stuff available so for a "trail" crankset I gain zero in terms of gearing compared to a dedicated 2X crankset. I got the XTR 980 Cranks with a 24T/32T/42T set up and can get the xtr "trail" 26T/38T rings if I decide to go to a 2X offering a nice summer/xc set up and a granny for the steeper stuff or just plain lack of time on the bike (aka fat slow syndrome)

- Dedicated 2X you keep the front shifter, front derailleur and loose only a granny ring? In this case there is not too of a weight loss benefit since I can loose my big ring just as easily-

Really nothing all of that conclusive here just my experience-

 

[262741]

After a bunch of playing with gearing and debating if a dedicated 2X crankset would make sense for me I decided to get a 10Speed 3X set-up with 104bcd. For some riders depending on the bike (mine is a 29er so it plays a part in my gearing thoughts), the trails and the fitness level a dedicated 2X has huge potential, for others it may not be the best suited; for what it is worth here is my take:

- A 36T "big/middle" ring was ok to push(still not as versatile as a 32T IMO), problem is most 2X go to a 39T or so "big" ring which might be fine on my HT or "some" of my trails but I like to keep my options open depending on where I am riding especially on a bike that I take on a wide variety of trails.

Really nothing all of that conclusive here just my experience-

On my 29er I am running 3 X 9, 11-34 cassette with 20-30-44 up front. It has been a versatile and appropriate gearing for that bike. Now I am building up a 6" travel 26" wheeled bike and want to go 2 X 10 with a bash ring. My old 6" travel 26er was 9 speed 11-34 with 22/32/42 and I decided I can do without the big ring but am reluctant to have my biggest gear be 32-11. Therefore I was set on 24/36/bash with an 11-36 cassette.

In your experience do you think the 36-36 gearing is going to be workable compared to the 32-34 I was cool with? Keep in mind it is on a bike with 26" wheels so the gearing is a little lighter than your 29er.

I know I can always grab the 24-36 and have low gears but am torn about how often I will be forced out of the middle ring when I used to be able to grind away there without making the desperation shift to granny. You seem to have a good handle on all of this so I value your feedback.

I am not persuaded by the "get stronger" or "just man up" or other similar comment as I know the reality of tired legs on a technical climb after a multi hour day all too well.

Thanks!

 

[knottshore]

On my 29er I am running 3 X 9, 11-34 cassette with 20-30-44 up front. It has been a versatile and appropriate gearing for that bike. Now I am building up a 6" travel 26" wheeled bike and want to go 2 X 10 with a bash ring. My old 6" travel 26er was 9 speed 11-34 with 22/32/42 and I decided I can do without the big ring but am reluctant to have my biggest gear be 32-11. Therefore I was set on 24/36/bash with an 11-36 cassette.

In your experience do you think the 36-36 gearing is going to be workable compared to the 32-34 I was cool with? Keep in mind it is on a bike with 26" wheels so the gearing is a little lighter than your 29er.

I know I can always grab the 24-36 and have low gears but am torn about how often I will be forced out of the middle ring when I used to be able to grind away there without making the desperation shift to granny. You seem to have a good handle on all of this so I value your feedback.

I am not persuaded by the "get stronger" or "just man up" or other similar comment as I know the reality of tired legs on a technical climb after a multi hour day all too well.

Thanks!

I appreciate your confidence but I can't say I am any sort of expert on this stuff (expert fiddler maybe...) I will give you my best guess based on my exp-

I don't kid myself either sure I can get stronger or just man up but real life says I can't spend as much time on my bike as I would like and want to enjoy it while I am... This said I have some aversion to dropping to my granny ring unless it is absolutely necessary... not sure why but it does put some emphasis on having the "right" ring set up on my cranks/

Shooting from the hip since all of our "shape" is a relative term and only knowing your CA from tolerating MB action's pics......The 6" frame your planning on building and what type of terrain your planning on tackling with it will have some impact on how well that 36T works- Most current 6" bikes pedal pretty well but most still prefer a sit and spin style vs a mash to get the most out of them (to be honest closest thing I had was a BLT ...not quite as much bike as you will be rolling on). The 36T ring mated with the 11-36T cog out back should be pretty versatile for you on the 26" wheels, and like you said you have the 24T to fall back on low gear wise.

I would look at it as worst case is you swap the 36T for a 34T which is a cinch with a 104bcd crankset (which is what I guess you'll be using for the 2X with a bash). This is exactly why I stuck with a 3X crankset- keep the "money" gear and an "oh $h!t" granny vs "manning" up to a small middle and a shrunken big ring...

 

[262741]

I appreciate your confidence but I can't say I am any sort of expert on this stuff (expert fiddler maybe...) I will give you my best guess based on my exp-

I don't kid myself either sure I can get stronger or just man up but real life says I can't spend as much time on my bike as I would like and want to enjoy it while I am... This said I have some aversion to dropping to my granny ring unless it is absolutely necessary... not sure why but it does put some emphasis on having the "right" ring set up on my cranks/

Shooting from the hip since all of our "shape" is a relative term and only knowing your CA from tolerating MB action's pics......The 6" frame your planning on building and what type of terrain your planning on tackling with it will have some impact on how well that 36T works- Most current 6" bikes pedal pretty well but most still prefer a sit and spin style vs a mash to get the most out of them (to be honest closest thing I had was a BLT ...not quite as much bike as you will be rolling on). The 36T ring mated with the 11-36T cog out back should be pretty versatile for you on the 26" wheels, and like you said you have the 24T to fall back on low gear wise.

I would look at it as worst case is you swap the 36T for a 34T which is a cinch with a 104bcd crankset (which is what I guess you'll be using for the 2X with a bash). This is exactly why I stuck with a 3X crankset- keep the "money" gear and an "oh $h!t" granny vs "manning" up to a small middle and a shrunken big ring...

Thanks for the info. I am looking into a Race Face crank and unfortunately (for now anyway) they do not offer a 34 in 10 speed. I could always get another brand chainring so that is not a deal breaker. I don't know if the Race Face crank is 104 bcd but it most likely is. I am starting to embrace just using the granny and shifting down the cassette more with each passing day. At least that way I get the low gears I want and a higher gear.

Saturday I rode my 29er and climbed in my 30 chainring/34 cog a lot! I also grabbed the granny a couple of times. How that translates to a 6" bike (Rocky Mountain Slayer 2011) remains to be seen. I know I have put way too much thought into all of this but it will take me at least a couple of months to build up this bike and I have not put together a bike from scratch in a while. Just trying to get my head around everything. This will also be my first 2X set up and my first foray into 10 speed.

 

[x.Jason]

Maybe this is the wrong place to ask this but what are the possibilities of maintaining a 1x9 set-up running a 32 up front and having a 36 ring as the granny in the rear? After reading much of your guys discussion it got me thinking about a different cassette.

 

[Cayenne_Pepa]

Your front derailleur needs to slide down where its about quarter inch above the bash guard, for better front shifts. Otherwise, I think you did good. Mine is a similar setup, borrowing from motocross technology; 20t granny(to save engine, on steep climbs), and 34t cassette.

 

[dwt]

Maybe this is the wrong place to ask this but what are the possibilities of maintaining a 1x 9 set-up running a 32 up front and having a 36 ring as the granny in the rear? After reading much of your guys discussion it got me thinking about a different cassette.

As long as your derailleur can handle the 32T front and 36T rear combo, no reason not to. With 1 x 9, you want to keep the chain as tight as possible to avoid chain slap and drop, so people generally use short or medium cage derailleurs. I run 32T front and 11-34 rear, and my X-7 short cage handles that fine. The question is does 36T rear bump you up to needing a long cage.

Maybe some of the math gurus here can help with the theoretical derailleur limits for 1 x 9 (or 10) set ups. I read through the short/long cage sticky, but it addresses 2 or 3 rings up front, not 1.