I was directed to use one of these for the lowers:

https://www.enduroforkseals.com/pro...T6902.html?fbclid=IwAR2VVsqhxjeP31NcazV9XuUwbWR-D1WxAQNo78SYqb0yVKMgG_EgZlKuA5A

 

I might have a lower link that needs bearings, it's yours if you want it? I would need to check to make sure I still have it in the AM.

 

Yesterday I was able to press in 3 bearings but was unable to get the last one straight and ended up ruining the link.

Aaargh! What did you use to press in the bearings?

I was directed to use one of these for the lowers:

How is that able to handle curved surfaces? Any bearing press has to brace on something, and the pictures of that tool in action don't show it being used on a curved surface. Why the heck does Ibis make links without a flat surface around the bearings in the first place?

I think the only other thing the op could have tried was to use a block of wood to brace the link, then used a hammer to drive the bearing in.

I bought a set of RapidRacerProducts bearing presses, and I'm dreading the time when I have to replace the bearings because of exactly what happened to the op.


Super nice offer bdundee!

 

Thanks for the input. I looked at the link on a Specialize and it has a flat surface. In the past I obtained rings as in the kit that I ground down to the correct shape. Could not find it and messed up. Starting to think it is just easier to buy the lower link with the bearings in place once or twice a year. $75 a pop. The upper link seems easier to work with.

 

If you don’t have a decent bench vise and you can’t make a tool to adapt for the curved surface then you’re probably better off buying new links. I made a tool from an old BB cup to take the old pressed bearing and I use a neat-fitting threaded rod, two nuts/washers and an old bearing for pressing in the new bearings. (Can also use the vise to press the ones with non-curved shells and finish seating them with an old bearing).
Tips - If you don’t get the bearings in straight at the very start, stop and reset them otherwise you’ll damage the housing.
Use some assembly lube or anti-seize. It’ll also help removing them next time.

 

If you don't have a decent bench vise and you can't make a tool to adapt for the curved surface then you're probably better off buying new links. I made a tool from an old BB cup to take the old pressed bearing and I use a neat-fitting threaded rod, two nuts/washers and an old bearing for pressing in the new bearings. (Can also use the vise to press the ones with non-curved shells and finish seating them with an old bearing).
Tips - If you don't get the bearings in straight at the very start, stop and reset them otherwise you'll damage the housing.
Use some assembly lube or anti-seize. It'll also help removing them next time.

I've done similar for many 'projects' over the years that require pressing in bearings (motorcycles, cars, bikes, etc). Usually, there's a way to make your own with common parts at a hardware store. Many times a socket of the correct size (OD) is part of the tool I make...you can run threaded rod through the middle of it then use washers/nuts to create the 'press'.

And Haggis tips are right on...start very slow and STOP if things don't appear to be lining up properly. Sometimes it takes a few tries and you may even need to 'dress' the bore to remove any burrs or imperfections then use assy lube to help coax the bearing in.

 

What about shimming the bearing tools? Can you stick some tape to the edges of the tool to create a level platform? Or, conversely, stick tape to the link?

In the past I obtained rings as in the kit that I ground down to the correct shape.

Okay, so maybe I should try filing my bearing tools? How much material has to be removed?

 

The guy at Real World Cycling was the one who suggested the tool. Maybe ping them to see if they have a tutorial.

 

Last set I did I stuck em in the freezer overnight, might have helped some?

 

I went through this last year. After installing new bearings the bike would make a clicking noise every so often. I repressed the bearings which helped but the noise was still there. I ended up buying a new link which comes with the bearings installed. Problem fixed. I know it’s more expensive but the price of the link is not bad.

 

I ended up buying a new link which comes with the bearings installed. Problem fixed. I know it's more expensive but the price of the link is not bad.

I went the same route and just bought a new set of linkages. It's not worth it to screw around with pressing in new bears.

 

Except the replacement bearings are of better quality and hopefully will last longer.