They all have pluses/minuses. The bottom bracket doesn't change the chainstay length, but changes the fit of the bike. Adjustable dropouts change the chainstay length, but maintain fit. Tensioners do neither, but add something that contributes to drag/mechanical failure point.

My preference is dropouts; EBBs are difficult to adjust well without shop tools, and I prefer the clean lines of a bike with no tensioner.

 

My current bike has a pivoting dropout, and works great. I really like it. You really can't to wrong with horizontal though, as long as you're not finicky about a few mm here and there on your rear end.

Tensioners are a no go for me, and EBBs are a last resort. I've used the Wheels Mfg EBB and had good luck with it, but it's definitely not my preferred setup.

 

Sliding dropout... Mic Drop

Alternator is another viable option.

 

White Industries Eno if converting from vertical dropouts.

 

I have used horizontal dropouts and sliding dropouts. I love the cleans lines of horizontal dropouts and have no problems with using them. However given a choice, all else being equal, prefer sliding dropouts. I run them on a Kona Unit and Honzo. They have never slipped or made noise, it is rare to hear of anybody else having problems with them and while pulling and reinstalling a rear wheel is not a common occurrence these days thanks to tubeless, sliding dropouts still makes it a whole lot less of a hassle.

EBBs....the internet is full of "how to keep your EBB from making noise" for a reason. Depending on the bike, I would not completely write them off, but it is definitely at the bottom of my list for tensioning on a SS frame.

Oops....knl2stl's post reminded me that I did run a White Industries ENO hub on my GT Zaskar for awhile. It worked and I rode it a lot, but even small tension adjustments for something like chain stretch and it was a hassle realigning the V-brake pads. I also had problems with slipping, had to keep an eye on it and was usually readjusting it about every third ride. I think that had something to do with the dropouts on the Zaskar. There was not much material for the eccentric hub axle to bite into when the axle bolts were tightened and hold it in place.

 

Horizontal or pivoting/sliding dropouts. The rest are sub-optimal and I wouldn't be interested.

 

I have had a Jones with a Bushnell EBB for years without issues. I pull it, clean it up, and re-grease it once in a while but it's never made a peep.

I just got a bike with a pinch bolt shell which should be just as reliable.

I have a few bikes with sliding dropouts and those are fine as well.

I like both of these methods as once chain tension is set the wheel can be removed without messing with it again.

 

I fell in love with the EBB on the Niner One 9 and after 9 years... I've fallen out of love with it. While I don't have the notorious creak that others mention, I do find it just a little harder to adjust on trailside which has prevented me from tightening the chain more than once. The first time it was a harmless chain drop, but I've had a minor crash when the chain dropped at a really bad time.

My own fault for not fixing it immediately. But I had similar issues with sliding drops and it's always been just a little easier to deal with trailside which is important to me. That, plus the general knowability/ usability of sliders has me sold. So I won't mess with EBBs any more.

I suspect pivoting drops have many of the same characteristics, I've just never used one.

Aside from that, sliding drops can be used to shorten or lengthen your chain stay length when you are running a derailleur which is a bit of a side bennie.

 

I'm my experience the holding power of rocker type dropouts has been stellar, and from a purely usability standpoint they've been by favorite... My big issue with them is that they're super goofy looking. Superficial obviously, but I just really don't care for how they look. They stick out like a sore thumb.

 

My top choice would have to be good old track ends (what you all incorrectly refer to as horizontal dropouts). Easy, foolproof, clean. Next is EBB. Clean lines and both Bushnell and Niner EBB’s were absolutely problem-free. Not sure what the other poster was talking about but adjustment does not need any special shop tools. Allen wrenches and a torque wrench. That’s it.
I run sliding drops currently. It works fine but it is rather ugly.

 

Not sure what the other poster was talking about but adjustment does not need any special shop tools.

As in, I do not ride with long L-keys, nor a torque wrench.

Pinch bolt EBBs are generally okay. Bushnell's usually don't get stuck, but it's possible a wedge doesn't come free. The old wedge style is pretty much impossible to adjust without hammer/punch, and the set-screw versions have their own unique problems.

They are relevant problems, but only if you don't stay on top of maintenance. It's unlikely that, on an enthusiast forum, that is a problem people here have encountered.

 

My current SS has an EBB, it took a little bit of effort to get creak free and zero slip. But it has been great for a while now. If I changed gearing for different trails, I would go with adjustable dropouts.

 

Horizontal dropouts for the win.

 

Snail cams or tug nutz?? Sliders are far better at staying in adjustment, just ask my trials bike!

I have adjusted my Specialized EBB on the trail. Loosen the pinch bolts, rotate the EBB by turning the BB where the BB wrench goes and then tighten up the pinch bolts. I witness mark the bolts so that I can get the torque correct or close to it without a torque wrench.

Twist enough bolts and a torque wrench is only needed for special occasions.

 

Sliding dropouts are my preferred setup. Horizontal dropouts/Track Ends are my second favorite. I have Paragon Swingers and don't like them. EBB is not something I'm interested in, there are better options IMO.

This has been covered many times if you do a search.

Sliders or horizontal dropouts? Pros and cons.

Okay, I imagine this has been done before, but I am getting close to having a frame built to order and am curious as to whether a slider type dropout like Paragon, or horizontal dropout aka track ends would provide the best power transfer and wheel security? I'm 5' 11" and 210 lbs and like...

www.mtbr.com

preferred method for building a singlespeed frame

(I have no experience with fabricating.) framebuilders: what would you prefer for building a SS-specific metal bike? what's easier to work for you and what offers the best performance for the rider? while there are probably other options, there's PF30 with an eccentric BB adapter, and various...

www.mtbr.com

 

Paragon Machine Works sliding rear dropout with integrated brake mount.

 

I'm curious how you would rotate the eccentric without a pin spanner/L-key braced against the bottom bracket, but I suppose you could bodge something on the trail.

 

It's easy. I never even used a spanner at home. For Bushnell, just stick the Allen key in the BB, rotate the cranks, which turns the EBB (like you were describing).

For Niner, I just turn it by hand.

But like I said, I've never had to do this on the trail. Knock on wood.

 

paragon machine works horizontal sliders.

 

I have adjusted my Specialized EBB on the trail. Loosen the pinch bolts, rotate the EBB by turning the BB where the BB wrench goes and then tighten up the pinch bolts. I witness mark the bolts so that I can get the torque correct or close to it without a torque wrench.

 

I'm a simple guy, so I like my track ends.

 

I have sliding dropouts with a Gates belt drive on my newest frame and will use the same dropouts on a frame that's being built.

For my two older, vertical dropout frames I have had absolutely no issues with the (no longer vailable) Soulcraft Convert tensioner.

 

Right now I have sliding dropouts (salsa alternator plates), but I prefer simple track ends.

 

horizontal dropouts paired with closed cam shimano QR

I can take the wheel out in seconds and closed cam QR never slips.

 

An EBB is the only thing that has completely ruined a ride (race) for me.
Wedge bolt broke on the way to the start line of a 3hr back country XC race on my Chameleon. Riding to the start I noticed the BB had moved over to the right and thought that wasn't quite usual. Back home, changed the race number over to the rigid Kona Unit and back to the start line just in time.
I'd set the Chameleon up as the ultimate bike for that course.
High Roller 2's, Schwalbe Pro Core, 140mm Pike, dropper, 32/21 gearing...
Took a year for the importer to get me a new EBB.
Never rode it again

 

^ that sucks!

 

Am I the only one having problems with sliding dropouts staying in place? No matter what, the wheel moves sooner or later so that the chain tension is less than stellar.

I am using the Paragon Machine Works dropouts on my frame which are a very nice piece of kit, but I am quite disappointed that they don't seem to deliver.

 

Am I the only one having problems with sliding dropouts staying in place? No matter what, the wheel moves sooner or later so that the chain tension is less than stellar.

I am using the Paragon Machine Works dropouts on my frame which are a very nice piece of kit, but I am quite disappointed that they don't seem to deliver.

There are many implementations of sliding dropouts. The question is really about issues with Paragon dropouts. Not general sliding dropouts. I have sliding dropouts on a specialized bike, and they are trouble free.

 

Horizontal Dropout, if they have a sliding tray that you can adjust, then it's simple and effective with no real downsides and no complexities. It means that every time you take a wheel off and put it back on, it goes back in the same place with no adjustment.
Open dropouts with tensioners are not as sleek. They are getting less common on mountain bikes. For a reason.