I've got a SS frame with only a single set of cable stops -- for the rear disc brake. I'd like to convert it to an IGH (Internally Geared Hub) so I need additional cable stops. Would it be possible to epoxy cable stops onto a frame? I had in mind a 2-part epoxy readily available in stores or even the less available body panel adhesive used in automotive body repair work. Thanks in advance.
Possible to 'glue' add-on cable stops to frame?
Sometimes
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Except it only comes in very limited sizes. There are other problems with these things too, but that's fodder for a different thread.smilinsteve said:
The best solution if they really want guides or stops is to have some brazed or welded or riveted on.
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Actually hold on a minute I just had a thought. I've worked on thousands of CF frames with glued on stops over the years with very few problems. I have seen a few pop off over the years, but it's quite rare. I think that would be the proof in the pudding I was talking about. It all comes down to finding the right glue.
(sorry to monopolize the thread)
(sorry to monopolize the thread)
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pliogriptoddre said:
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Bonding carbon is a bit different than metals. They use to bond stops on aluminum frames but later rivets or welds became needed to keep them in place.themanmonkey said:
I am thinking I may just use Gorilla Glue to attach housing directly to the frame...
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I don't think so Shig it's all a mater of what the glue is. I know a few Boeing engineer types that glue all kinds of things to their bikes. The couple companies I ever knew that switched from glue to rivets did so because it was cheaper and faster. The problem was mostly cure times. When I was at Cannondale last winter they "brazed" them because it was the best balance of speed and cost. Here's a pic of the brazing lineup.shiggy said:
Sheesh! Thanks for all the replies & suggestions!
I had completely forgot about my post & just 'accidentally' came across it. Yeah ... I'm getting senile
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I've pretty much thought of all the ideas everyone has so far suggested but for one reason or another ruled them out (including cable stops attached to hose clamps -- believe it or not) & settled on attempting gluing. And I think I'll still try that. Just have to find the right adhesive. Might take a bit of experimentation but I think I can make it work. If not ... I might try brazing them on. The frame isn't exactly known for durability to begin with which is why I'm hesitant to use any solution that requires application of heat so that will be a last resort.
And yes, I do know the difference between a cable housing stop & guide.
I had the idea of attaching a cable stop to the downtube (DT) & another one to the under side of the drive side chainstay (CS) & cable guide to the under side of the bottom bracket so I could run cable from the DT to the CS for an Alfine IGH. I just don't like the idea of running all that housing. Personal taste.
But ... as it turns out, I haven't gotten around to building my Alfine or Nexus wheels & I just acquired a used Rohloff 29er wheel so I'll be using that instead initially. For the Rohloff IGH I'll just piggyback off the rear disc cable housing. Sure, it will look hokey but all I'm trying to do, at least initially, is to evaluate it to see if it's worth keeping.
So ... for now ... problem solved.
Thanks for all the responses.
I had completely forgot about my post & just 'accidentally' came across it. Yeah ... I'm getting senile
.I've pretty much thought of all the ideas everyone has so far suggested but for one reason or another ruled them out (including cable stops attached to hose clamps -- believe it or not) & settled on attempting gluing. And I think I'll still try that. Just have to find the right adhesive. Might take a bit of experimentation but I think I can make it work. If not ... I might try brazing them on. The frame isn't exactly known for durability to begin with which is why I'm hesitant to use any solution that requires application of heat so that will be a last resort.
And yes, I do know the difference between a cable housing stop & guide.
I had the idea of attaching a cable stop to the downtube (DT) & another one to the under side of the drive side chainstay (CS) & cable guide to the under side of the bottom bracket so I could run cable from the DT to the CS for an Alfine IGH. I just don't like the idea of running all that housing. Personal taste.
But ... as it turns out, I haven't gotten around to building my Alfine or Nexus wheels & I just acquired a used Rohloff 29er wheel so I'll be using that instead initially. For the Rohloff IGH I'll just piggyback off the rear disc cable housing. Sure, it will look hokey but all I'm trying to do, at least initially, is to evaluate it to see if it's worth keeping.
So ... for now ... problem solved.
Thanks for all the responses.
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Well it really isn't the same thing because the fork tube in the crown sees mostly compressive forces that are resisted by the crown socket, not just the glue. With a cable stop it is shear stress on the glue metal interface alone.....RoyDean said:Oh. I see. Bonding aluminum to aluminum will obviously work for a fork, but not for a cable stop. What was I thinking.
I'm curious if the OP ever did his glue job and how it worked out?
I didn't say it was the same. Just because the loading is different, doesn't mean you should automatically throw the idea into the dustbin... It may be that the shear stress equates to only a few psi... I know some industrial adhesives can handle thousands of psi in shear...
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OK, folks before taking the thread any further please read this thread written by folks that aren't speculating, but actually doing a similar experiment testing for shear with aluminum to aluminum adhesive bonding.
What I get from this is that what the OP wants to do is easily possible, but that it may, or may not, be a permanent bond. It seems to mostly come down to the preparation of the area and the adhesive used.
Also I still see brazing the bosses as the best way and here's a video about it.
What I get from this is that what the OP wants to do is easily possible, but that it may, or may not, be a permanent bond. It seems to mostly come down to the preparation of the area and the adhesive used.
Also I still see brazing the bosses as the best way and here's a video about it.
what cable stops are you talking about on ss? the ones on the downtube or the ones on top tube?Sometimes said:
if the cable is going basically the same route as the brake cable, just fully house the cable like a hydraulic and zip tie it to brake cable. but, if you have to have a cable stop for the hub then there may be some cable stops on ebay that can bolt to your seat stay or chain stay. i know they have cable stops to bolt to you seat tube for front derailleurs.
http://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle-frame-tubing/CABLE-GUIDE-FOR-RD-TOP-TUBE.html
Just use a rivit on cable guide. Nova has a bunch of differant rivit on "braze ons" in the aluminum small parts section.
Tim
Just use a rivit on cable guide. Nova has a bunch of differant rivit on "braze ons" in the aluminum small parts section.
Tim
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