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Heavier usually means more material, thicker side walls and if it's using the same material it's going to be more resistant to damage.

I'm not saying that you should be riding fiberglass bike made of cheap material and with excess resin, but if you have two bikes using same carbon weave and resin, the one using more material is going to be stronger if they haven't screwed something up.

European brands that are not available in USA have very light frames for half or third the price of big brands such as Trek/Spec/Giant and sometimes American companies using old tech can look outdated in comparison. I don't know why that is.

Not related directly to Pivot and bit offtopic, but for instance for the price of Trek road bike Emonda SLR that was touted to be the lightes production bike you can get 2-3 Rose Xlites that weigh the same.
 
European brands that are not available in USA have very light frames for half or third the price of big brands such as Trek/Spec/Giant and sometimes American companies using old tech can look outdated in comparison. I don't know why that is.
I'd expect that while there is some cost delta based upon actual material used (specific carbon fiber product / weave / resin) but I suspect that end cost also comes from a) cost of production and b) charging what the traffic will bear.

I don't know which is larger, a or b.

Clearly though, US consumers are largely happy to pay the high price for carbon components and frames. There's certainly enough sales of them, and more and more OEM going "carbon first" or "carbon only" for frame designs.

disclaimer: I just got a new full-carbon FS bike this autumn, so I'm in that bucket, but it's not a Pivot, Trek, Spec, or Giant, sorry Pivot
 
Hello guys !
My frame kit Switch is arrived ! :) Beautifull !
I have a question, with the crank I have three "cales" ,spacers is probably the good word... They are black and one is bigger with a little red
The BB was already installed when the frame arrived, I must put one or twoo or no spavers beetween the crank and the BB ?
Sorry, I not sure to be clear....
 
You will use the spacer with the red piece on the drive side along with one of the smaller spacers (the smaller one goes onto the spindle of the crank). The second smaller spacer goes on the non-drive side spindle. You can also email us if you need more info (info@pivotcycles.com) or a diagram/photo
Hello guys !
My frame kit Switch is arrived ! :) Beautifull !
I have a question, with the crank I have three "cales" ,spacers is probably the good word... They are black and one is bigger with a little red
The BB was already installed when the frame arrived, I must put one or twoo or no spavers beetween the crank and the BB ?
Sorry, I not sure to be clear....
 
For the moment, I can just watch mine...lol
Still waiting my wheels...I take advantage of this time to push the fork at 160 mm :)
I'm also impressed by the X2, just visualy for the moment, volume seem big !
I hope the combo 160 fit4 /X2 will do a great and good job :D
The test will be difficult...it's snowy in mountain since two weeks. I must ride with my ski rather the Switchblade ;)

I also understand what you are saying with the spindle of the aeffect, in fact, it's not the same diameter than my Next sl ;) Aeffect 24 mm / Next 30 mm
If I want to put the next, I must order other BB...and maybe, with the next, flipped the chainring... I will see
Some People have mount the Next ?

But, for the moment...It's just too difficult waiting for riding it !!!
 
Discussion starter · #1,750 ·
Thinking of selling my small black one. Even have both wheelsizes. Not enough room in the garage and it gets little attention, not the bike for our trails, bought it mostly for travelling.
 
Do you know if it's possible to find a screw axle (with Allen key) For the rear ? To put in place of the DT axle, It will give little more clearance at the rear.
I want to mean, more clearance with the frame and rocks,stones etc, because the rear is already big.
 
Have ridden my SB now in 150mm and 160mm with 17mm cup installed. The fork is actually only a .25" higher when weighted at the same pressures. Can't say I noticed much difference with the exception of maybe losing a bit of small bump compliance. Could be just due to new stiction from the rebuild or geo change. Planning to switch the cup to the zero stack which I believe will be about spot on for most of the CO front range trails. I like to ride towards the back anyway and use my fork travel for emergencies.
Finally have a few rides with the zero stack cup installed and the fork at 160mm. Verdict: it rocks both ways. Definitely a better slope climber with the front end down and seems a bit more playful in the tech stuff. Just a bit more balanced feeling. For a trail bike around here the setup is perfect. If I had only one bike for the parks and trails, I'd likely leave the 17mm cup in...but I'll use my Mach 6 or Intense EVO 951 for the parks.
 
Does anyone know if this rear hub from hope would work for building a wheelset for the switchblade?

Look at this on eBay Hope Pro 4 Rear Disc Hub 12mm x 157mm, 32h, Black | eBay

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You could build a wheel that would work. Hub width would fit the frame, however the hub flanges are not as wide so the wheel would be less stiff. By no means a wheel expert so not sure how big of a difference in strength it really is.
 
You could build a wheel that would work. Hub width would fit the frame, however the hub flanges are not as wide so the wheel would be less stiff. By no means a wheel expert so not sure how big of a difference in strength it really is.
So that's all the wider flange does is make it a tad more stiff? I don't really care about stiffness especially if it's a very minimal difference. Might just go this route to build up a set of 27.5+ wheels. I would imagine this hope is better than the sram hub that has been noted in this thread.

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