My SB has 29'er wheels and came with the lower headset cup installed to slacken the HTA. Climbing can be a real pain in the arse especially on steeper stuff. I'm thinking of removing the cup to see how the bike feels. Has anyone kept theirs in with a 29er wheelset?

 

My SB 29er has the lower cup installed. I like it and it gives a bit more bb height/pedal clearance.

 

I originally posted this in another thread but seeing as this is the thread for all things Switchblade, I thought I should include it here too FYI.

Here are the Pantone colour codes for the Gloss Blue:

 

thanks man! What does the process look like to use this touchup paint? Is there a certain kind of paint you get every time that works? Any clear coat I need to put on too? Thankfully my father-in-law runs a body shop with insane paint room for custom car work.

 

Here you go, just put the paint in the top and away you go for a nice neat solution...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/1924463188...&merchantid=6995734&poi=&googleloc=9046802&device=c&campaignid=207297426&crdt=0

 

What's the best option for Carbon 29" wheels for Switchblade that won't break the bank? I'm looking at picking up a used SB from a new buddy of mine. I want the rotational weight savings to make it easier to pedal and get going. Bike has an X2 shock and Push AC3 coil in the fork, both of which are nice...but I'd like to recover some of that and just make the climbs smoother. I'm not a greater rider (yet hopefully) so extra stiffness isn't a huge deal at this point (I think).

I've never tried to build my own wheels tho it seems like there is a bunch of "art" to it and I worry about messing important/expensive stuff up...im pretty damn handy tho.

Any advice? If I'm off base here let me know. Cheers

 

I'm thinking of having a good wheel builder change out the alloy rims to carbon ones on my stock alloy 29" wheels. (Nexties maybe). This way I keep the DT hubs and centerlock rotors that I like.

 

Deleted.

 

I've decided to try a new bike for the new season so I am parting out my large Switchblade. I'm selling Switchblade specific parts, frame, rear wheel, and spindle. If anyone is interested before I post stuff to Pinkbike please contact me. I would prefer a local sale if you are reasonably close to the Lake Tahoe area.

 

27.5 or 29?

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I've got both 29 and 27.5+ wheelsets. The 27.5+ wheels are the Reynolds carbons that I bought with the bike. The 29ers are Nox wheels I had built. I'm keeping the front wheel and selling only the rear wheel. It's a Nox Teocalli with i9 hub color matched to the frame.

 

What do you guys think about the X2 shock on a blade? Can you tune it to still be spritely on the trails? I like how DWLink squirts your bike forward on pedal strokes and want the switchblade to do the same (if possible) on more regular trails where big decents aren't the focus. Obviously when the more downhill days are there, I'd be adjusting it for more squish... Or maybe wouldn't have to?

 

I ran an X2 on my Switchblade all last season and it is definitely a much better shock in the rough than the stock EVO. I used a ShockWiz and tried different tunes, but found I liked the "playful" tune better for all around riding. The "aggressive" mode was very plush, but with only 135mm of travel trails that really benefited from that plushness usually overwhelmed it. The climb switch on the X2 isn't really like "trail mode" on the EVO so if you want the overall firmer ride with the X2 you need to play with LSC and HSC to get it. Overall if you ride mostly smoother flowy trails without many big hits I'd stay with the EVO. However, X2 is much better in the rough and what little it gives up in pedal efficiency makes it well worth it. If you interested in trying an X2 I'm parting out my Switchblade and I don't need the X2 anymore. contact me if you're interested.

 

I'm selling an as-new set of the Pivot DT 27.5+ alloy wheels. Exactly as shipped by Pivot (DT XM551 rims, DT 350 straightpull centerlock hubs, 36T ratchet, DT tubeless tape and valves, etc) but no tires or rotors or rotor lockrings.

There is some trivial cosmetic "wear" from shop handling and parking lot demo's and tire removal, but they are essentially new. Perfectly round/true, perfect bearings, perfect rims sidewalls, zero dings, no sealant residue, near zero blemishes to decals, etc.

Boxed and ready to ship. Or could meet/deliver in So Cal / AZ / southern UT region in next 2 weeks or so while I am travelling.

PM if interested.

EDIT: currently have an XD driver on the rear. I have a Shimano body I could swap in if preferred.

EDIT #2: Wheels are sold.

 

Awesome ride on the Switchblade this morning around Dalby Forest, trying out my new DPS shock compared to my usual X2. The bike feels extra slightly but obviously less plush with it. I like it but I also like my X2.

 

What's the verdict on SB and Fox X2?
Would I be able to fit X2 on my XL SB and keep the large water bottle accessible?

 

I really like the X2 but it is soooo plush sometimes I felt like I was missing out on some XC speed, hence the DPS for when the need arises.

 

Update on my woes with Race Face Next crank.

RF BB turned rough after less than 1000km, no wonder because the bearings are tiny.

Who came up with a brilliant idea of using 30mm spindle on BB92?

I replaced the BB with Rotor 4130 double row bearings and it was fine but I noticed a click on the non-driveside crank arm and no matter what I did it could be felt through the pedals.
After trying another pair of pedals, removing the chain and installing new Rotor BB, it persisted and I noticed that the non-driveside crank arm had play in the spindle and arm interface. There's also a crack in the arm from the middle of the crank arm to the spindle in the inside. I'm not sure how this came to be but I'll have the cranks warrantied.

Since Switchblade comes with super boost 157mm rear end, it's rear triangle doesn't leave a lot of room for chainring clearance and I thought that it was going to be a problem with another crankset.

Lucikly, I have great LBS so the owner ordered zero offset Absolute Black Oval chainring for SRAM GXP and installed new GXP BB along with SRAM Eagle XX1 crankset.
This setup works like a charm. Q-Factor is the same as before (168mm), but the shape of the cranks is different so while the axle is shorter on SRAM, the cranks have enough clearance to clear the chainstays without trouble.

Because of the GXP BB, I only need stock wave washer and no faffing with preload ring and spacers like on the Race Face Next crankset.

This gives much cleaner appearance, cranks are slimmer so less chance of rocks hitting them and crank arms are closer to the BB shell so there's less leverage on the bearings, and the bearings themselves are much bigger so I don't expect any problems in for at least 2 years like I did with 24mm axle on my 429 Trail.

I'm not sure if the XX1 cranks are different shape than other Eagle cranks as there were some reports that about some Eagle cranks rubbing on the chainstays with SB, but I have zero issues.

What's important to note is that you need zero offset chainring to achieve correct chainline because Next cranks come with 3mm offset ring but have longer spindle.

Weight difference is virtually non-existent. I weighted both Next SL G4 and XX1 Eagle at 480 grams including crank boots and spacers/washers and at around 550-560 grams with entire assembly including BB cups.

Here are couple of photos:

 

Update on my woes with Race Face Next crank.

RF BB turned rough after less than 1000km, no wonder because the bearings are tiny.

Who came up with a brilliant idea of using 30mm spindle on BB92?

I replaced the BB with Rotor 4130 double row bearings and it was fine but I noticed a click on the non-driveside crank arm and no matter what I did it could be felt through the pedals.
After trying another pair of pedals, removing the chain and installing new Rotor BB, it persisted and I noticed that the non-driveside crank arm had play in the spindle and arm interface. There's also a crack in the arm from the middle of the crank arm to the spindle in the inside. I'm not sure how this came to be but I'll have the cranks warrantied.

Since Switchblade comes with super boost 157mm rear end, it's rear triangle doesn't leave a lot of room for chainring clearance and I thought that it was going to be a problem with another crankset.

Lucikly, I have great LBS so the owner ordered zero offset Absolute Black Oval chainring for SRAM GXP and installed new GXP BB along with SRAM Eagle XX1 crankset.
This setup works like a charm. Q-Factor is the same as before (168mm), but the shape of the cranks is different so while the axle is shorter on SRAM, the cranks have enough clearance to clear the chainstays without trouble.

Because of the GXP BB, I only need stock wave washer and no faffing with preload ring and spacers like on the Race Face Next crankset.

This gives much cleaner appearance, cranks are slimmer so less chance of rocks hitting them and crank arms are closer to the BB shell so there's less leverage on the bearings, and the bearings themselves are much bigger so I don't expect any problems in for at least 2 years like I did with 24mm axle on my 429 Trail.

I'm not sure if the XX1 cranks are different shape than other Eagle cranks as there were some reports that about some Eagle cranks rubbing on the chainstays with SB, but I have zero issues.

What's important to note is that you need zero offset chainring to achieve correct chainline because Next cranks come with 3mm offset ring but have longer spindle.

Here are couple of photos:

Looks like a good outcome for you, good stuff! I've been running the Absolute Black oval (on my Next SL cranks) for a while on mine and it makes a real difference.

My bike has less miles than you and my RF B.B. is shot, I'm taking it in tomorrow and having my dealer replace the bearings with Enduro ones which is something I've done before and works.

 

delete me

 

Speaking of Race Face cranks and BB's...

I took my bike in this morning to have the guys replace the bearings in the BB with some Enduro ones, but it seems like this is not possible. Do any of you know of any direct replacement bearings or a BB that will work with the RF Next SL G4 cranks please?

 

I replaced my race face BB92 with these...

BB92 TO BB30 BOTTOM BRACKET KIT

 

After much work, this is the rippenest bike I've ridden to date. Very happy with the way it rides and handles the tech, steep drop-ins and jumps. The McLeod is awesome, but I would eventually like to try the new Rockshox if it fits.
I absolutely love having the 29+ up front!
Shock is a 216x63 reduced to 210x57 using a simple 6mm spacer. Both ends are offset to end up with a 207mm eye to eye with a 57mm stroke. A metric 210x56 shock could be used instead without having to reduce the travel.

155mm travel with a 27.5x2.8 Rekon SS in the rear.
150mm travel with a 29×3.0 DHF up front.
All angles are the same as stock 29 without the 17mm spacer.
BB height is 13.75" which is perfect for my riding with this amount of travel. IMO, droppers allow one to have a little higher BB without penalty. Trail is longer because of larger diameter tire up front.

 

What rim size are you running the 29x3 front end on?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

Interesting info about the shock.
I wasn't aware that you can use 210mm ete on the SB.
That would make for some useful metric combination like 210x60 and the shock would bottom out at virtually the same place as with stock 200x51mm shock but with 155mm or so travel.

 

So, I've received my new (kinda) Fox X2.



Installed it quickly enough and went for a ride.

What was odd is that the shock needs really high pressure for my weight, at least according to my pump. I put around 230PSI and after riding it today it seems ok but 5-10PSI more wouldn't hurt. I'm 88-90kg.

I always had issues with my other shocks and their Low Speed Rebound that was either too fast so it bucked you sometimes, or it was too slow and wouldn't track well. Furthermore, Low Speed Compression is always too high and when climbing over larger obstacles and traversing chunkier stuff at lower speed rear end would often bounce away from it or hang because LSC was too stiff even in open setting.

This is 2016 model without climb lever but I don't miss it really and it's just that you need to spend a bit of time tweaking the settings to get it working well. I set my baseline by Pivot's recommendation and the shock works beautifully. The only thing I tweaked is slowed the LSR by a click or two to minimize pedal bob.

Performance of the X2 is head and shoulders above anything else I've ridden before (mostly various Fox Float and Monarch/Monarch Plus models). It completely transforms the ride for the better, rear end just tracks and unlike DPS it always works irrespective of terrain or speed.

I got the shock at half the price as it's 2016/2017 model but as I understand it, 2018 is just slightly lighter stock tune and uses lighter oil (which is not relevant for my weight).

Obviously it's about 200gr heavier than DPS but that's small price to pay for such massive performance boost and the fact it stays much cooler.

I would definitely suggest to anyone who owns a SB to consider upgrading to X2 if you're not 100% happy with the DPS. It makes great bike incredible and gives you sensation that the bike just got a significant bump in travel.

 

UPDATE: rode 27.5+ with fork extended to 160

So I bought my blade with 17mm cup installed and the DT Swiss 27.5+wheels and Maxxis 2.8 Rekons and loved it. However, I bought it that way because I knew I wanted both wheel sizes and I as going to run 29er primarily and I wanted my 29ers to be custom. I bought some sweet I9 Enduros with system hubs and spokes in fancy azz colors and I love them. Switching to the 29ers was great for all out speed, stability and much less pedal strikes. After a while I wanted to try extending my fork to 160mm and it was great with the 29ers (even more clearance) and front end forgiveness on less than ideal landings. However, I recently put the 27.5+ back on and that set-up absolutely rips with the extended fork. I think the improved clearance, slightly more raked out front end, lower C/G and dynamite traction on the 2.8 Rekons are just perfect. Now I'm really torn between the 29ers and 27.5+. It's a great problem to have though...:thumbsup:

 

Jman0000,
Here's something to try, Frankenbike. Extending the fork to 160mm with the 17mm cup and 27.5+ tires is almost exactly the same ride height as a 29er wheel/ tire and 0 stack cup. Throw the 29er wheel/tire out back and you get the best of both worlds. Rolling speed and pedaling of the 29er and the plushness and grip of the 27.5+ up front. I rode my Switchblade in Frankenbike mode most of last season. Worked well for me.

 

Yeah I saw your previous posts. I'm gonna eventually give all the combos a try. Why not? We got 4 bikes in one frame with this rig! Fun stuff. I just can't get over how goodthe grip is with those 2.8 Rekons though...

 

My left crank arm has been clicking for over a year... I’m thinking I should probably get that checked.

 

My left crank arm has been clicking for over a year... I'm thinking I should probably get that checked.

My left G4 is clicking. My left 2+ year old SixC just snapped. Going with either XT or XO1 on the SB.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Thanks for posting!
I just ordered an X2 for my SB and excited to try it on.
I see its a better descender all around, but how does it climb compared to the DPS?
Do you get significantly more bob?
Thanks!

 

Similar bob as DPS when open, DPS closed has obviously less bob (none), but it doesn't bother me at all because seated SB has minimal bob and for offroad climbing some suspension is actually better than locked out.

There are no drawbacks because:
1. Weight (200 gram) difference can't be perceived
2. It performs far better than DPS in any scenario
3. It's massively tuneable so it covers broad spectrum of conditions, riders and styles
4. It stays much cooler than DPS
5. X2 is much softer initially and pairs better to the fork and SB's capabilities because frankly the bike with DPS is somewhat undergunned because shock does limit it's potential.

The only problem that I discovered is that with X2, you're far more likely to ride it more agressively, so your wheels and tires are going to take much worse beating than with DPS

 

So far no issues and had in for about 6 months. They do press in further into the frame and I used a good coat of retaining compound so not a peep. Only concern is they don’t come with an inner tube/spacer so if water gets in there there’s no barrier to the inside of the bearings.

 

Dt 350

Ordered stuff for a new 29" rear wheel.

 

Just posted this up in its' own thread, but I love the fact they've done this.

Switchblade Aluminum - Pivot Cycles | Pivot Cycles | Performance Redefined

Everything we know and love about the Switchblade but now in a more affordable package...

 

Hello to all you know the angle of the gallows in 50mm thank you

 

@spartes,

Most of your posts are indecipherable. I'm guessing that you're using Google translate or similar to write your posts, and that is producing words like "gallows" that have no bike relevance in English.
I suggest you use this site as a reference to help with your English bicycle component translations.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/eng-fren.html

I lived in Grasse for several years and rode a LOT of difficult singletrack in the Alpes-Maritime region. Love that place.