The bike is pretty linear. You need to run the suspension so that it ramps to get some progression, otherwise its easy to bottom out and blow through travel while pumping down the trail, let alone jumping or charging rocks.

Fox 36 w/ RC2 @ 160. 2 orange and 1 blue
X2 with proper tune. Max spacers (4 IIRC)

180lbs for reference. Works well for me on the east coast, along with riding out west in Aspen.

 

Not Switchblade related...

Some more SuperBoost love: SUPERBOOST - 44 Bikes

 

So, I sold my Trail and after taking a hard look realized that my best choice would be the Blade

I'm getting eagle variant, what is the max chainring size I can fit on it? I used 30 oval on Trail, but with X01, so I was planning on upsizing due to 50T in the back.
Additionaly, would there be any issues running X2 shock instead of DPS? I was planning on running 36 on 160mm setting and X2 at around 20-25% sag. The idea is to get slightly slacker front end at about 66.5 degrees and keep the rear from getting too slack and at the same time raising BB so to avoid rock strikes as I live in rocky area.
How does that sound?

 

I run a round 34t Superboost from OneUp-Components. https://www.oneupcomponents.com/col...nents.com/collections/chainrings-oval/products/switch-cinch?variant=31481756929

Oval 32t should also fit.

This thread has some posts on rear suspension working best with a 30t ring.

With my XT 11-46 I find anything smaller than 34t ridiculous.

 

So at the end I picked XTR Team 1x build but with DT wheels and I'll put XX1 cassette on the back.
I'll decide about X2 or DPX2 later, seen some complaints that X2 is very DH oriented and not as good for climbing.

Has anyone tried running X2 with 57mm stroke but perhaps using a custom reducer so you get 54-55mm stroke just to be safe from tire hitting the seat tube.
That way, you could have nearly 150mm travel in the rear.

 

So at the end I picked XTR Team 1x build but with DT wheels and I'll put XX1 cassette on the back.
I'll decide about X2 or DPX2 later, seen some complaints that X2 is very DH oriented and not as good for climbing.

Has anyone tried running X2 with 57mm stroke but perhaps using a custom reducer so you get 54-55mm stroke just to be safe from tire hitting the seat tube.
That way, you could have nearly 150mm travel in the rear.

Have no problem climbing with X2 as well as several of my friends who all converted to X2. Have had no issue with 135mm rear either after a full season of Enduro and multiple ride parks, the X2 helps with that for sure. I do run 160mm fork, installed the RC2 cartridge. Highly recommended.

 

So at the end I picked XTR Team 1x build but with DT wheels and I'll put XX1 cassette on the back.
I'll decide about X2 or DPX2 later, seen some complaints that X2 is very DH oriented and not as good for climbing.

Has anyone tried running X2 with 57mm stroke but perhaps using a custom reducer so you get 54-55mm stroke just to be safe from tire hitting the seat tube.
That way, you could have nearly 150mm travel in the rear.

The amount of travel is fine for me but I'm not clearing all the double black stuff and even then I wonder if a long travel 29er would be easy to handle on tight switch backs, drops, and steeps. But bombing down long rocky, choppy, trails out west the Switchblade scares me at times. A Slash or Wreckoning could be more composed and thus less stressful but that's not how it works for me. To me, it's more speed. I'm thinking of my Ninja 1000 or Corvette. Fun as hell, but really too much bike and car for me. I could eve go stupid fast on tight twisty country roads in my GTI. I'm probably going to rent a Wreckoning to see what I'm missing.

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I don't go on forums much cause you can never judge a persons riding skill. Out here in BC my bike had no issues with double blacks, double reds what ever you want to call them. Raced some BC Enduros and placed in the top 20s in Pro at Trans Bc..

I'm 40 been riding my whole life and I find this bike really good for everything. My only complaints is the 2017 X2 shock is over damped and the design isn't to friendly in the small bump sensitivity. spend alot of time tuning the X2. Don't pack it full of air Volume spacers of the bat cause I found it hurt performance. I ended up with 3 and a re tuned shock with 5 wt oil.

I also had my fork setup at 6inchs and a 1° angle set so it was geard towards decending.

It's always going to be rider first bike second.

 

I don't go on forums much cause you can never judge a persons riding skill.

I agree with you, just looking for feedback from people who have been riding the bike. I'm strongly considering getting a Switchblade but my only concerns were the rear travel (which may not be an issue for me) and if getting a bike with super boost would be an issue.

 

I'm strongly considering getting a Switchblade but my only concerns were the rear travel (which may not be an issue for me) and if getting a bike with super boost would be an issue.

Haha you read my mind..

 

I’m sure this is posted somewhere, but it wouldn’t hurt to have it here again.

What are the options for SuperBoost hubs? I heard the SRAM XO 157 is SuperBoost. Is that right?
Thank you!

 

I'm sure this is posted somewhere, but it wouldn't hurt to have it here again.

What are the options for SuperBoost hubs? I heard the SRAM XO 157 is SuperBoost. Is that right?
Thank you!

Yes it is I built a 27.5 plus wheelset with XO, same flange width as stock DT 350. I talked to Pivot about that option and replied that it was a very good choice for 157mm super boost tear hub.

 

What's the deal with SB and superboost flanges?
I know the theory, but is the wheel dished in practice on SB?
By using a regular 157mm hub for DH, would there be any issues fitting the rim and dishing it properly.

As I understand it, DH hubs have flanges in the middle of the hub, but on superboost, they're not in the middle.
Does this mean that SB has it's rear triangle shaped with an offset such as Cannondale FSi and what would happen if I were to build a wheel using a regular say DT 240s 157mm hub for DH?

 

Both should work. I have a friend who build wheels for his SB using a DH hub.

 

No, thing is I'd buy DT Swiss only.

There are two reasons: first one is ratchet system and second is that my SB is already equipped with DT Swiss wheels and I'd build another wheelset for different tires and would just swap freehub so I have XD and Shimano freehub (XTR build comes with Shimano but I'd use X01/XX1 cassette on my everyday wheelset).

That's why there's an option for DT 240s DH hub with old-style "narrow" flanges and I was asking if there would be any issues running those.

AFAIK, 157mm hub places the rim without dishing, in theory making a stronger wheel due to equal spoke tension, but super boost has wider flanges so bracing angles are wider.

I don't know how's Switchblade's rear triangle shaped and if one could run old style DH hub with narrower flanges and still get equal spoke tension and strong wheel or does Superboost move the rim bit to the side and the rear triangle matches it so that if I use old style hub, I'd have to dish the wheel to keep it in center.

 

That's why there's an option for DT 240s DH hub with old-style "narrow" flanges and I was asking if there would be any issues running those.

AFAIK, 157mm hub places the rim without dishing, in theory making a stronger wheel due to equal spoke tension, but super boost has wider flanges so bracing angles are wider.

I don't know how's Switchblade's rear triangle shaped and if one could run old style DH hub with narrower flanges and still get equal spoke tension and strong wheel or does Superboost move the rim bit to the side and the rear triangle matches it so that if I use old style hub, I'd have to dish the wheel to keep it in center.

The Switchblade dropouts are symmetric; there is no offset in the frame that is "cancelled" by an offset in the wheel.

Any 157mm hub will work. Those with "superboost" asymmetric flange spacing will, as you note, have greater, but unequal, spoke bracing angle. A "traditional" 157mm like a DT240 or DT350 classic (for J bend spokes) model, has symmetric flange spacing, so works very well with a center-drilled rim.

I am running DT350 classic "DH" hub with Arc 30 rims and the wheel built up easier than most (totally equal spoke lengths, tensions, etc). Personally I don't place a ton of value on the additional bracing angle of superboost, as you've already got pretty substantial angle w/ a 157mm hub. Carrying that preference even further, I used a 15x100 DT350 front hub retrofitted with a Wolftooth Boostinator, which provides an equivalent arrangement up front (nearly identical spoke length, tension and angle on DS and NDS).

About the only thing you should not do: use a traditional DH symmetrically flanged hub and an asym rim. That would be stupid. It would actually decrease the bracing angle on one side, and increase disparity in tension L to R.

 

Any update to manufacturers that make a 157 superboost hub?

 

I’m trying to figure out the crank/BB/chainring options for the SB and am finding it confusing because of so many variables.
Is it possible to run a RF Next SL G4 or R with the 134mm spindle and 32 tooth OneUp SB oval chainring? Supposedly that provides a 56.5mm chainline.

 

Or if I use a 143mm spindle, which offset OneUp (0,3,6mm) would I use to get proper chain line?

I have read a lot of talk about Q-factor and I would like to know what it's all about in regards to the SB. The only reason I can think is that the cranks will hit the stays if the Q is too narrow. IS that correct?

 

For those who keep repeating the mantra that the Switchblade has to have a Q factor of at least 173mm, read this article: https://www.bikerumor.com/2016/05/2...ot-unveils-switchblade-long-travel-2927-mtb-introduces-super-boost-hub-spacing/
"Currently the various cranks result in a 173-177mm Q-factor, but Pivot says there will be cranks available in the future that will make a 168mm Q-factor a possibility."

 

Sooo.... got myself a 'blade


I just had a test ride around town and a nearby hill to take few photos, so can't judge the bike just now.

I'll take a proper ride tomorrow.

What first struck me is how silent and smooth it is. Nothing rattles or makes a peep.
The version I got has specially tuned damper on 36, 800mm wide carbon bar and 35mm stem, rest of the bike is the same as XTR Team 1x build except the wheels are aluminium DT Swiss as I don't care for carbon wheels and DT Swiss hubs are better anyway and the whole wheelset is actually lighter.

Even with ridiculously grippy Minions WT 2.5/2.4 the bike is quite light.
I might swap the shifter/derailleur/casette for Eagle X01 or just get XX1/X01 11s casette because Shimano XT casette is quite heavy, lacks top end and I can't fit big enough chainring in the front.

Overall cockpit lenght seems pretty close to 429T with 60mm stem I had before, but I might change the stem to 50mm on SB.
I still have to get rid of the pesky 17mm cup and install zero stack one.

 

Sooo.... got myself a 'blade


I just had a test ride around town and a nearby hill to take few photos, so can't judge the bike just now.

I'll take a proper ride tomorrow.

What first struck me is how silent and smooth it is. Nothing rattles or makes a peep.
The version I got has specially tuned damper on 36, 800mm wide carbon bar and 35mm stem, rest of the bike is the same as XTR Team 1x build except the wheels are aluminium DT Swiss as I don't care for carbon wheels and DT Swiss hubs are better anyway and the whole wheelset is actually lighter.

Even with ridiculously grippy Minions WT 2.5/2.4 the bike is quite light.
I might swap the shifter/derailleur/casette for Eagle X01 or just get XX1/X01 11s casette because Shimano XT casette is quite heavy, lacks top end and I can't fit big enough chainring in the front.

Overall cockpit lenght seems pretty close to 429T with 60mm stem I had before, but I might change the stem to 50mm on SB, but I still have to get rid of the pesky 17mm cup and install zero stack one.

Top tube length is similar, but reach way different.

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I just test fit the 32t oval swich-cinch with super boost offset from one up componants. I only have 2 4.5mm spacers right now so I don't have the correct chain line, but it looks like there is plenty of space for adjustment. I will pickup the proper spacers tomorrow to ensure proper clearance. So stoked! This seems like a cheaper option then buying an xd driver and sram 10-42 cassette to get a little more downhill speed.
https://www.oneupcomponents.com/collections/chainrings-1/products/switch-cinch?variant=31481756929
I was surprised to find that the chain ring fit over my mallet dh!

 

Been looking at getting a Switchblade. Anyone have issues with the amount of rear travel? Does it seem like not enough for rowdier riding, or has it been fine?

 

The amount of travel is fine for me but I'm not clearing all the double black stuff and even then I wonder if a long travel 29er would be easy to handle on tight switch backs, drops, and steeps. But bombing down long rocky, choppy, trails out west the Switchblade scares me at times. A Slash or Wreckoning could be more composed and thus less stressful but that's not how it works for me. To me, it's more speed. I'm thinking of my Ninja 1000 or Corvette. Fun as hell, but really too much bike and car for me. I could eve go stupid fast on tight twisty country roads in my GTI. I'm probably going to rent a Wreckoning to see what I'm missing.

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Take the air out of the shock and look how close everything gets to at full bottom out. Not much room for error.top link plate where all the dirt gets caught gets pretty close to the seat tube.

 

subscribed

 

I got to ride new XC track plus enduro on nearby hill yesterday.

The new XC track is excellent, it has great sections and downs.

A couple of comments about Minions:

With Minions brakes option and not a necessity
It is not very important at which speed I enter the curve because they hold great, but they also slow you down terribly if the trail isn't very steep.

Nobby Nic 2.6 is a much faster tire for general riding unless you ride shuttle or very sloppy terrain.

I still have to play around with suspension settings, but the quicker you get, the suspension performs better.

The XTR gearing and brakes have proved to be excellent but I'm not thrilled with grips, maybe because I ride with very thin gloves so the hard rubber on the grips chafes.

As for geometry and handling, I can not say it is drastically different from the 429T which is in essence good. The head angle is not too slack which I prefer because it doesn't wander on the steep climbs.

Bike doesn't feel too big either, quite compact considering the geo numbers.

The rear end is great and I've been looking back a few times t see if the rear tire had air

Small chatter is smoothed out very nicely and rear end si significantly smoother than on the Trail which was pretty good already.
Pedalling is still great and suspension doesn't bob even fully open.

Fox Transfer works well, although there is more side to side play than the new Giant's dropper.

For now that's it, now I have to put some other tires because I don't want to destroy these soft minions on our rocks, and I need something that rolls faster.

 

I have been looking into swapping over to maxxis aggresor feont and rear. Seems like they would give me what i’m looking for. Good rolling resistance but still able to push it in the turns. Or possibly wtb trail boss for the same reason but i have always run maxxis. Anyone have any input on either of these tires? Would be mounting to an i30 rim so 2.4 -2.5

 

I have been looking into swapping over to maxxis aggresor feont and rear. Seems like they would give me what i'm looking for. Good rolling resistance but still able to push it in the turns. Or possibly wtb trail boss for the same reason but i have always run maxxis. Anyone have any input on either of these tires? Would be mounting to an i30 rim so 2.4 -2.5

I had aggressors front and rear. The front didn't bite well enough for me. I prefer the E13 Plus for speed, DHF 2.5 DC for dry west, DHR2 2.4 WT 3C for all season east coast.

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Hello to all, I would like to change my pedals pedals for Sram Eagle Gx.
I must take it in boost or normal.
Thank you in advance for your answer.

 

Sorry, but that doesn't make much sense. You're not going to get much help.

 

Anyone have a Zero cup they are not going to use? I bought a used 29er SB and it came with the 17mm cup.

Thank you!

 

So, I've blinged my SB a bit.

 

Looks good. Did the upgrades drop some weight as well?

 

I've decided to get a SB, but I'm trying to narrow down the build and the sizing.

I'm tying to decide between the X01 and the XT/XTR builds. I'm fine with X01 (it's closer to my original budget for this purchase) but I'm wondering if it's worth the extra $650 to get the Factory fork and shock rather than the Performance? I know this has been beaten to death on some other threads and forums, but curious if anyone has experience with both.

I would prefer to get GX Eagle on this bike, so if I do go with the XT/XTR build, I'm hoping my LBS or Pivot will swap out the drivetrain for the Eagle as I'd like to have a 12 speed.

Finally, anyone "size up" for this bike due to its geo and feel?

 

I've decided to get a SB, but I'm trying to narrow down the build and the sizing.

I'm tying to decide between the X01 and the XT/XTR builds. I'm fine with X01 (it's closer to my original budget for this purchase) but I'm wondering if it's worth the extra $650 to get the Factory fork and shock rather than the Performance? I know this has been beaten to death on some other threads and forums, but curious if anyone has experience with both.

I would prefer to get GX Eagle on this bike, so if I do go with the XT/XTR build, I'm hoping my LBS or Pivot will swap out the drivetrain for the Eagle as I'd like to have a 12 speed.

Finally, anyone "size up" for this bike due to its geo and feel?

The SB has a fairly long reach. A large SB is much larger than the old XL Mach 6. I went with XL bc I'm 6'3" and like a roomy feel, but it's definitely roomy in each size compared to many bikes. The XL is in between an XL and XXL Santa Cruz TB and HT if that helps at all.

 

Demoed one today and may be a 29er convert. I also rode the Mach 5.5 but preferred the SB oddly as I never liked any 29ers I rode before. The SB just felt so stiff, planted and fast while handling gnar and climbing great!

 

I just bought a small SB and can't seem to get a bottle and cage to fit. I've tried two regular cages and two different side entry cages with no luck. I already flipped the shock over but the problem is that even if I get the cage to fit the bottle hits the seat tube without being fully seated in the cage. What are you guys with small frames doing for water bottles?