So we're approaching the one year anniversary of Switchblades shipping. Any word on when (if?) Pivot will start selling framesets? Any evidence of aftermarket DT Super Boost 157 hubs yet? (I've seen none)

 

Call for SB157 hubs. I didn't see anyone pushing those to distributors since the demand is so low. Since the Switchblade is the only bike rocking that standard (DH spacing with the flanges pushed out) right now, they all consider it "custom."

Hopefully the Santa Cruz V10 on 29ers is on the same hub spacing and it takes off. It'll make availability a non-issue.

 

There's a Mondraker bike that uses them as well, so the Switchblade isn't the only one.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

 

I thought I had read all the reviews BUT this one makes me so excited about getting my 'Blade!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Has anyone tried a Shimano 2X Boost crank (M8000) on the SB?

I've seen references to using a M8000 1X Boost crank and being able to clear the SB chainstay with a 32T round, but not with 32T oval chainring.

Since the 2X versions of the Boost cranks have their spider offset 2.4mm further outboard, using a 1X ring on a 2X cranks brings you pretty close to the nominal SB chainline (54.4 versus 56mm if my math is correct).

So I'm confident the 1X ring on 2X Boost crank will work fairly well, certainly to 32T, and maybe to 34T. Q factor should also be a non-issue w/ XT cranks at 176mm.

But I'm also curious if a 2X setup would work on the Boost cranks with a 34T round outer. I'm presuming the inner 24T won't have a problem, but the 34T may not clear the chainstay, and the front deraillieur may be offset further outboard than ideal for such a chainring setup.

I've ridden nothing but 180mm cranks for 25 years, and also prefer the Shimano crank preload/NDS-arm-attachment mechanism, so I'm biased toward a Shimano crank if I can make it work reasonably well.

 

Has anyone tried a Shimano 2X Boost crank (M8000) on the SB?

I've seen references to using a M8000 1X Boost crank and being able to clear the SB chainstay with a 32T round, but not with 32T oval chainring.

Since the 2X versions of the Boost cranks have their spider offset 2.4mm further outboard, using a 1X ring on a 2X cranks brings you pretty close to the nominal SB chainline (54.4 versus 56mm if my math is correct).

So I'm confident the 1X ring on 2X Boost crank will work fairly well, certainly to 32T, and maybe to 34T. Q factor should also be a non-issue w/ XT cranks at 176mm.

But I'm also curious if a 2X setup would work on the Boost cranks with a 34T round outer. I'm presuming the inner 24T won't have a problem, but the 34T may not clear the chainstay, and the front deraillieur may be offset further outboard than ideal for such a chainring setup.

I noticed a Shimano 2X crank on a Switchblade in this Pinkbike article about Di2:
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/shimano-xt-di2-double-header-review.html

I'm curious if Vernon Felton is running a Boost crank and getting sufficient clearance and decent chainline, or if Shimano may be rolling out some super boost spaced cranks?

 

I'm trying to decide between the base model, XT Race 29 and the next step up, Pro XT/XTR 29. My only real concern is the Sun Ringle wheel set on the base model (I weigh 210# if it matters). The Pro wheel set comes with DT Swiss 350 hubs, plus upgrades in brakes, handlebar, suspension, rear derailleur etc. There is a $1,200 difference in msrp. The base model is already a tough budget stretch, but I don't want to be penny wise and pound foolish in the end.

Anyone with the Race XT model have comments on the wheels?

 

I'm trying to decide between the base model, XT Race 29 and the next step up, Pro XT/XTR 29. My only real concern is the Sun Ringle wheel set on the base model (I weigh 210# if it matters). The Pro wheel set comes with DT Swiss 350 hubs, plus upgrades in brakes, handlebar, suspension, rear derailleur etc. There is a $1,200 difference in msrp. The base model is already a touch budget stretch, but I don't want to be penny wise and pound foolish in the end.

Anyone with the Race XT model have comments on the wheels?

I have the Race XT model. I spent the money saved on the next level up on some Stan's Flow wheels, SixC bars, a Fox X2, a RC2 damper, XT brakes, and beer.

If you aren't a weight weenie, running bike parks, rocky terrain, or take stupid lines, the stock wheels are probably fine for all that don't get caught in what everyone else is doing.

 

If the next step up is stretching your budget, then stick with the base model and just enjoy it. The wheels are solid and the SLX brakes are very reliable.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

lol not too big of a deal, just a medium FB to match the fitment of the large SB with a 160 fork and a 1 degree angleset to get me to 66.5 HA. 2.6 rear (2.8 fits also)/ 2.8 front on 40mm rims. It climbs better than my SB I swear and the downhill is awesome! Now I have a close to new black all SRAM XX1 with Guide ultimate brakes and Reynolds carbon I9 hoops with fox RC2 in 27.5+ format Switchblade for sale... I also have the X2 shock I would throw in for a full price sale. I'm not going to add price on here, so PM me if interested. Here's the Fireblade 2-6-7.5+:

 

^^^ I don't really get it. What's the point? Less front travel with a goofy/unreliable headset to make up for it, without any weight or performance advantage? Then you have to throw on some huge meat to keep the bottom bracket from killing all the ants...but have fun on it!

 

To each his own for sure but I agree and I don't understand the benefit....

 

Didn't the Pro XT/XTR 1x used to be $6,299 and the 2x $6,399? The Pivot website has them both marked as $6,399 msrp. I guess if you get a 2x, the front shifter and front derailleur are "free." I could be wrong, maybe they've always been the same price, but the other builds have a price difference between the 1x and 2x versions.

*Edit: I just checked several bikes on the website and all of the bikes I checked have a $200+ difference between the Pro XTR 1x and 2x except the Switchblade and Firebird. I guess due to the popularity they figured they can charge a premium for the 1x? Just guessing.

 

I'm probably not alone, but I'm interested in a DT 157+ rear hub in any form: hub only, 27.5+ wheelset, 29 wheelset. PM me if you've got something.

 

Sorry guys, didn't mean to start a bickerment about what's better good bad or not. I have a Switchblade which I love. I wanted more travel in the rear and a bike that could do it all even better. I took a chance after some numbers research and came up with this since I loved the Pivot. That's it and that's all. I compare to the SB because that's what I'm currently familiar with and trying to emulate same with a longer travel rig. I feel like I achieved that and was still a little over all the money spent building a set of wheels and not being able to find the correct hub since it's proprietary. I know you can use a DH 150 hub, blah blah, but the flanges aren't the same width and there's no straight pull CL option at Industry Nine to match the front I already have. That's all. The rear isn't stiffer as a result of the super wide hub, maybe just a stronger wheel if you aren't using the very best of rim builds anyway. go wiggle a few rears on other bikes to verify that for yourself. All good wither way. My SB is still a rad ride, i'm just trying something different. Happy trails.

 

The SB has been on market over a year now.
do you guys think the wider tires cause any problem?
how does SB compare to Bronson?
Does the SB weight affect handling at all?

 

how does SB compare to Bronson?

The Hightower is the Santa Cruz model most comparable to the Switchblade: same rear travel, both 27.5+ and 29 supported, ~67 deg HA.

 

The SC Hightower is a great all around bike imo. I rode it in both forms, but prefer plus on everything nowadays. I put a lot of miles on the Hightower and my only real complaint was the creaking lower link when not greased for a few rides. Otherwise it was great up and down the mountain. Frame weight is lighter so similar spec'd Switchblade will be lighter, but not noticeable while riding. The Switchblade DW seems a little firmer initially than the VPP on small bumps, but I felt more controlled downhill on the Sb than the Hightower. Maybe the slighly more slack head angle?? Both are pretty close overall IMO.

 

What about the climb?

Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

 

I think they are a pretty close match in that department really. I am usually more concerned about going back down so the SB takes the win for me.

 

I've already trashed my suspension bearings. I ordered the bearing kit and removal/press tool from RWC. Has anybody on here had experience changing out the bearings? Any advice or experiences would be greatly appreciated!

 

I used a Sram BB30 type crankset and replaced the spindle with a RF Cinch regular spindle to get a 32T boost chainring to fit while maintaining a good chainline. It's a tightfittinbluejean but it clears the stays and I've put a few hundred miles on it with no issues. I would assume you could do the same with an even wider spindle to get a 34T to clear.

 

This happened today!

Brought it home to apply a Frameskin kit to it then its back to the shop by which point in time the X2 and the build kit should be ready for the build to continue. I can't wait!...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Nice! I would do the same thing. Get that frame protected and then back to the shop.

 

Thanks man!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

I'm on an XL and I run the taller cup... Only swapped the front tire so far but have a sram 34t ring about to arrive.

Haven't weighed it.

Posted some more opinions a couple of pages back.

 

[SUB][/SUB]Ok, thanks. I was curious on the weight to see if the cheaper build was much heavier than the XT/XTR builds.

 

3 weeks on the Blade so far. Love the bike but the X2 Doesn't seem to have enough rebound damping. Max damping still has the back end bucking jumps. If I speed the fork rebound to full fast and the x2 damping to full slow it's close to jumping level. Anyone else having trouble setting theirs up? I'm 210 with gear and backpack.

 

Yep. I had the same issue my my X2. I thought I was setting it up wrong and hired a suspension guru to meet me at a local trail to tune it. Since it still did not feel good to me, I went to the DVO Topaz and have been very happy since.

I am about your same weight on a large SB. I added three volume spacers in the positive chamber and one in the negative. Small bump compliance is amazing now and I have only bottomed out hard once taking a 4' drop to a slight vertical incline at about 20 mph. And, the Topaz can be purchased for about $420, much cheaper than the X2.

 

I have been riding mountain bike for 25 years. I've ridden GT, Trek, Cannondale, Specialized, and Klein. Done short races as well as long races and XTerra. Here is my advice. There is no mathematical equation to the right size frame. It all comes down to what feels best. I am 5'11" and sometime best fit for a medium and sometimes best for large. Occasionally an extra large because of I have a super long torso and short legs. Everyone frets over frame size...well I will tell you go with what feels best depending on the terrain you ride. Everyone is different...personally I now prefer the short stem with the slack geometry and I ride a large Switchblade. Yes,I could ride a medium but I fee more comfortable on a large.

 

If anyone have a set of Reynolds 29 Enduro SB wheels they'd like to sell, hit me up. I'm going to try this beast as a 29er and see what all the hype is about

 

I got my Frameskin kit today, took about 10 days to get here from Australia.

Took me about 2 hours to fit, the kit is pretty intricate and covers the majority of the frame. Managed to avoid as many bubbles as possible by wet applying with a water and baby shampoo solution. There are a few bubbles left but previous experience leads me to believe that most of these will evaporate out within a few days.

The frame will be going back to the shop on Monday for the build!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro