Easy fellas, I'm just curious given the success on the Hightower and Primer. No harm intended. Like I said, I understand all the ramifications of modifying a bike outside its intended design.

Like the majority of MTBR users I like to tinker with bikes and curiosity is fun to indulge. I was thinking along the lines of using two offset bushings on the shock to "lengthen" the shock by about 1/8". This would only work if the shock yoke had more then enough clearance at the seat tube. Then use the 1/4" longer stroke shock and at bottom out the shock only ends up about 1/8" "shorter" than stock. This will only work if there is enough tire/ linkage clearance etc... With this plus a 160mm fork you could end up with near stock geo with a higher bottom bracket. By using the offset bushings to "lengthen" the shock and then factoring in the extra bit of sag you would get by going 30% sag on a 2.25" shock vs. 2.0", you should end up near the same spot in the suspension curve and the effect on kinematics might be minimal.

I do find it amusing that most forum users think it's OK to lengthen the fork by adding 10-20mm of travel over the manufacturer's spec (thus running the bike outside it's intended design), but when trying to discuss the rear travel...the big guns come out.

Some good points were thrown out and thanks for the constructive discussion. That video is pretty neat as well and very helpful.

 

Easy fellas, I'm just curious given the success on the Hightower and Primer. No harm intended. Like I said, I understand all the ramifications of modifying a bike outside its intended design.

Like the majority of MTBR users I like to tinker with bikes and curiosity is fun to indulge. I was thinking along the lines of using two offset bushings on the shock to "lengthen" the shock by about 1/8". This would only work if the shock yoke had more then enough clearance at the seat tube. Then use the 1/4" longer stroke shock and at bottom out the shock only ends up about 1/8" "shorter" than stock. This will only work if there is enough tire/ linkage clearance etc... With this plus a 160mm fork you could end up with near stock geo with a higher bottom bracket. By using the offset bushings to "lengthen" the shock and then factoring in the extra bit of sag you would get by going 30% sag on a 2.25" shock vs. 2.0", you should end up near the same spot in the suspension curve and the effect on kinematics might be minimal.

I do find it amusing that most forum users think it's OK to lengthen the fork by adding 10-20mm of travel over the manufacturer's spec (thus running the bike outside it's intended design), but when trying to discuss the rear travel...the big guns come out.

Some good points were thrown out and thanks for the constructive discussion. That video is pretty neat as well and very helpful.

I agree. Why all the judgement? Like everyone knows best. Just a heads up - I don't think you can use an offset bushing on the rear since there is no bushing.

 

Hey all where is the serial number located at on the frame?

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It's on the Bottom Bracket shell, should be a silver square with S/N and a QR code

 

Inside the seat tube.

 

Honestly it does not bother me either way if you go long shock, more power to you. Just funny, especially considering all the people buying shorter travel bikes, then wanting to spend time and money only to change their desired setup. Go for it, hope it turns out well.


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Does anyone here have the Race XT build? It's the cheapest one at $5,199. Just wondering how it rides and what it weighs.

 

I would imagine the weight to be around the 31lbs mark and it will ride just as well as the other builds given that the suspension is the same only without the Kashima. I hope that helps.

 

I have my XT/XTR 29 build for sale. Like new.

Pivot Switchblade 29 XT/XTR Like New, Medium - Buy and Sell Mountain Bikes and Accessories

 

deleted...

 

Trying to make sense of the chainline and ring type.

I want an AbsoluteBlack 32T oval for my stock aeffect cranks. Do I need the boost or non-boost version? Do I mount it normal or flip it?

 

If your Aeffect crank has 5mm spindle spacers on each side, you'll need the Boost chainring to get the ~57mm chainline. If you get the standard cinch chainring, you still can mount it by moving both spacers to the drive side (and pedalling funny )

If it's a standard Aeffect crank with no spacers, you'll need a flipped standard chainring. I will be doing this with my SB with an aftermarket 170mm Aeffect crank.

 

I have a non-boost 32t Absolute Black ring on my Switchblade. It's worked fine for over three months of regular riding. See previous post

 

You should be using a boost specific AB chain ring as confirmed by Ken from pivot on this thread.

 

I have the same AB chainring in boost for my SB as well. When I took it to the bike shop and asked them to install it replacing the one pictured in the post I linked above, they recommended that I keep the non-boost one on the bike. This same shop works on Ken's bike too; so, I trust them. I'm not saying Ken is incorrect, I'm sure both boost and non-boost work fine, which I think another member said above as well.

 

As long as the ring clears the chain stay you're good to go! That's the main concern with swapping out to larger rings or ones with varying offset.We recommend the Boost rings for clearance and optimized chain line.

 

Anyone knows if a frame kit is available in the US? In Germany for example the frame sells separately for 3500€ (incl. Tax)


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Currently you can't get frame only in the US new.

 

Wasn't aware it was available as a frame anywhere.
What the hell pivot??
Take care of your neighbors first eh.

 

As far as I'm aware Pivot still don't offer a frame only but they do list the price of the frame separately to the builds. For instance I was quoted £3100 for the frame with a DPS shock, £335 for the X2 upgrade and £5500 for the XX1 Team 29 build kit with Reynolds wheels. All RRP.

(Incidentally the additional 27.5 Plus wheel set is an additional £2200.)

You can't buy one without the other although I'm sure most shops would sort a build deal out if you weren't happy with the standard kit.

 

I use the Absolute Black 30T Oval Chainring on my Switchblade NON BOOST. I've had it my bike since September and 600 miles or so and not a single issue. Shifts like butter and takes the abuse.
Here is what I ordered.
Absolute Black Cinch Oval Chainring > Components > Drivetrain > Chainrings | Jenson USA

 

Fellow SB owners I just tuned my fork and rear shock with the RS ShockWiz,trust me and beg borrow or steal to get your fork and shock working to optimum performance with this tool.I have Fox 36 160mm RC2 with Fox X2 rear. Real deal technology!

Ask your LBS if they offer a rental,in my area several shops offer this for 25.00 per day rental. I tuned my fork and shock within a two hour ride.Super easy to use with App.A sweet attribute is that your within two clicks up or down on adjustments for optimum performance in any condition or type of ride terrain.

 

Anyone here with 6'6" or taller on a XL? How does this work out for you?


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I'm looking for a bike on the slacker side of things so would probably run the 29er with 17mm cup or even go to 160mm fork but after a test ride of both the 29er and + I had a nagging feeling that the front end felt a little 'under' or steep. I couldn't quite put my finger on it. I thought it might be the stem length but then I read Seb Stott's Bike Radar review where he wrote this: "also felt the 67.25-degree head angle could be slacker. While it sounds fairly slack, the mismatched travel results in a slightly steeper dynamic head angle when sagged. To compensate, we upped fork pressure to prop it up for steep terrain. This made it a touch harder than we’d normally run. We’d have liked to increase sag in the rear to slacken it out for steep descents, but this would exacerbate the slack seat angle on the climbs." Can some of you kind folk please elaborate on what he's talking about here?

 

I'm looking for a bike on the slacker side of things so would probably run the 29er with 17mm cup or even go to 160mm fork but after a test ride of both the 29er and + I had a nagging feeling that the front end felt a little 'under' or steep. I couldn't quite put my finger on it. I thought it might be the stem length but then I read Seb Stott's Bike Radar review where he wrote this: "also felt the 67.25-degree head angle could be slacker. While it sounds fairly slack, the mismatched travel results in a slightly steeper dynamic head angle when sagged. To compensate, we upped fork pressure to prop it up for steep terrain. This made it a touch harder than we'd normally run. We'd have liked to increase sag in the rear to slacken it out for steep descents, but this would exacerbate the slack seat angle on the climbs." Can some of you kind folk please elaborate on what he's talking about here?

I have never used the 17mm cup and after 5 months + of use never seen a need to.160mm fork running both wheelsizes.Too many overthink slackness and can definitely effect steep SB climbs by wandering and front feeling underweighted by jacking the front up to much,160mm has been great overall without 17mm on both wheelsizes for me and yes an ocasional pedal strike but nothing not manageable. If your concerned about not slack enough I call BS,I have a 15 year DH background and trust me I have no fear or lack of confidence on the steepest terrain on the SB.

 

Anyone thinks that the DI2 battery compartment can be used for something useful like a multitool or so or explored options to do so?

 

It could be used for something easily enough but you'd need to come up with a quick & easy method of access Vs removing the bolts that hold the cover in place. Kinda has me thinking now... :idea:

 

Not so much BS as inexperience on my part. I'm just a few years in to Mtb. I'm starting to do more technical downs and drops and perhaps I need to work on my skills first! Thanks for your comment. It's nice to hear from an experienced rider. Looking for just one bike here so it's this or the Wreckoning.

 

Don't be thrown off, it is all personal and there is a reason that there are so many bikes on the market. If the bike doesn't feel right move on, you will know it when you find it. For me personally the slacker the better. My 29 setup is a 66 degree HA, 342 BB and 434 chainstays. @techfersure has a lot of skill from those 15 years of DH and you are a newer rider so different needs and preferences.

 

Anyone from New England riding the Switchblade around here?

Any complaints about the low bottom bracket when riding NE terrain?

I test rode a SB last summer with the 27.5x2.8 tires on it and the BB was WAY too low for my taste, but that was a one-ride impression at a Demo-Day so I didn't have a chance to make many adjustments. I'm hoping other folks who ride technical terrain have had a better experience...?

TIA.

 

Anyone from New England riding the Switchblade around here?

Any complaints about the low bottom bracket when riding NE terrain?

I test rode a SB last summer with the 27.5x2.8 tires on it and the BB was WAY too low for my taste, but that was a one-ride impression at a Demo-Day so I didn't have a chance to make many adjustments. I'm hoping other folks who ride technical terrain have had a better experience...?

TIA.

Eastern Pa,we have significant rock chunder,exposed planted rock,etc. 160mm without 17mm cup for 29 and 27.5 +, working well with occasional hits but our area is known for crank arm beaters no matter your ride.

 

In the month of owning and riding my SB 29er at 150/135 (no 17mm cup), I haven't found any issues with the geo. This has included XC rides, big mountain rides, and a couple shuttle days following the big boys (Cat1 and 2 guys) on DH bikes. I am upping the fork travel to 160 only because I am using up every mm now on east coast rocks at speed and too many volume spacers have made for a harsh ride.

Don't get too caught up in info online about bike setup. I almost feel like it can do folks a disservice by getting them thinking in the weeds to much vs just riding (and this is coming from an engineer that has to live in the weeds!). The SB is in that happy window of not too slack/not slack enough for a bike that can pedal up and rally down.

I've only been riding MTBs regularly for 3 years now. I do come from a motorcycle road racing background where it is a similar deal in folks getting way too caught up in bike setup vs just riding, however. Go ride bike parks and DH trails with experienced folks and grab and abuse a DJ bike on everything to make worrying about a millimeter here or 0.1 degree there a non-issue. I learned A LOT just riding with fast folks that were more than happy to stop and session stuff with me, along with riding as many sub-disciplines that I could jump into.

The SB is a good bike for doing everything acceptably well.

 

In the month of owning and riding my SB 29er at 150/135 (no 17mm cup), I haven't found any issues with the geo. This has included XC rides, big mountain rides, and a couple shuttle days following the big boys (Cat1 and 2 guys) on DH bikes. I am upping the fork travel to 160 only because I am using up every mm now on east coast rocks at speed and too many volume spacers have made for a harsh ride.

Don't get too caught up in info online about bike setup. I almost feel like it can do folks a disservice by getting them thinking in the weeds to much vs just riding (and this is coming from an engineer that has to live in the weeds!). The SB is in that happy window of not too slack/not slack enough for a bike that can pedal up and rally down.

I've only been riding MTBs regularly for 3 years now. I do come from a motorcycle road racing background where it is a similar deal in folks getting way too caught up in bike setup vs just riding, however. Go ride bike parks and DH trails with experienced folks and grab and abuse a DJ bike on everything to make worrying about a millimeter here or 0.1 degree there a non-issue. I learned A LOT just riding with fast folks that were more than happy to stop and session stuff with me, along with riding as many sub-disciplines that I could jump into.

The SB is a good bike for doing everything acceptably well.

What he said! Highly recomend the RC2 air cartridge set at 160mm and tuned with ShockWiz,so sweet!

 

Replaces the Fit 4 cartridge.Has hi speed and low speed adjustments no lockout.

 

Excellent thanks for the info! That's what I'd be wanting to do, get it matched up to the X2 rear end.

 

@kenbentit Like this? Wonder what could be fitted in, i'm spoiled by my friends SWAT trunk on the E29

Btw. this is my Switchblade, just finished the build, very happy with the first ride, weight is at just under 30lbs in XL, with a X2 and the standard HR2 tires. Gonna get rid of the saddle, seatpost is a BikeYoke Revive in 160mm, loving it. Magura Brakes, standard Fox36 in 150mm with high headset cup installed.

Bike is flying on the downs, crazy speeds...

 

Yep! Probably the most secure thing with relatively easy access. I'd put something like a Twinkie in there, just because :cornut:

@kenbentit Like this? Wonder what could be fitted in, i'm spoiled by my friends SWAT trunk on the E29

View attachment 1125421

Btw. this is my Switchblade, just finished the build, very happy with the first ride, weight is at just under 30lbs in XL, with a X2 and the standard HR2 tires. Gonna get rid of the saddle, seatpost is a BikeYoke Revive in 160mm, loving it. Magura Brakes, standard Fox36 in 150mm with high headset cup installed.

Bike is flying on the downs, crazy speeds...