I just feel pivot need to do something about these portion to make it less susceptible to paint chip.

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Anyone heard anything about a frame only option?

 

Local dealer said - nothing yet. He's not sure if or when they will do frame only. I get the sense that they are partly doing this to avoid incompatibility issues arising when folks try to build their own. Seems that if you get the crank and BB right then you're fine.

 

same here , no frame only from two LBS. Considering other options A (SB5.5c, hightower), B wait until spring to try again

 

I have a 429 trail that I love but now I'm wondering if more is better. The 429 takes everything I've thrown at it but still I'm curious.

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I'll likely just wait for spring and look at options again in April. The tires still turn on my present bike.

 

2 rides on the new Switchblade and have to say I'm impressed. Very similar to my Mach 6 in climbing and descending but this rails corners far better. I'm currently setup with 29" wheels and the 17 mm cup. Feels just a tad light in the front on steep climbs so thinking of dropping to the flush cup and bumping the fork travel to 160mm. Anyone tried both setups? Hate to give up the extra bottom bracket height for technical climbs and the slacker head angle for the chutes but think I'm suffering a bit on the climbs. What cup are most folks running in 29'er mode?

 

I'm running mine with the 17mm cup, forks at 160, a 40mm stem and 30mm riser bar. Mine out climbs every other bike I've ever owned or ridden (mostly XC bikes) to the point where my mates think it's got a motor stashed in one of the tubes. I'm 5'10 on a large. The front end goes light but it's never actually come off the ground without me wanting it to. It's the climbing ability more than the DH ability that really blows me away with my bike simply because I didn't expect it to be so good.

 

I have been reading and researching everything about the Switchblade that I can find. It sounds like an incredible bike. Right now I have a pivot Mach 6 in size med. I have almost always rode a size med. In any brand I have owned, except for an older ibis SLR that I rode a large since the frame was very small, (I am 5’8” tall). My dilemma is, any bike shops around me carrys no stock. So I can’t size it. The online dealers that I have talked to tell me I need a size small. I know the numbers are different than the Mach 6, but My Mach 6 is a perfect fit, and the best bike I have ever owned. But I am ready for something new, (love the idea of the plus tires). It just seems crazy to go to a size small, and can’t get this wrong with a $7500.00 purchase. Is there anybody with opinions on the SB sizing?

 

I have been reading and researching everything about the Switchblade that I can find. It sounds like an incredible bike. Right now I have a pivot Mach 6 in size med. I have almost always rode a size med. In any brand I have owned, except for an older ibis SLR that I rode a large since the frame was very small, (I am 5'8" tall). My dilemma is, any bike shops around me carrys no stock. So I can't size it. The online dealers that I have talked to tell me I need a size small. I know the numbers are different than the Mach 6, but My Mach 6 is a perfect fit, and the best bike I have ever owned. But I am ready for something new, (love the idea of the plus tires). It just seems crazy to go to a size small, and can't get this wrong with a $7500.00 purchase. Is there anybody with opinions on the SB sizing?

We were just talking about sizing tonight. I'm 5'8 and ride medium switchblade and it's perfect. My buddy has a large switchblade and I tried it tonight and it felt way big to me. I say go medium and call it a day.

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I'm also 5'8" and own/ride a medium Switchblade. I'm longer in the torso than the legs. My inseam is 30". I also ride medium Trail 429 and I did own a Mach 6 in a medium a while back. All of these bikes I believe were the "right" size despite the differences in geometry. If you have a shorter torso, the SB could be a little long coming up from the short top tube and reach of the Mach 6. Though you can easily move down to a 35 or 40mm stem from the stock 60mm which would pull the bars in for you. The only thing I would be concerned about if you have a very short torso. That could be an issue but if you are running the stock 60mm stem on the Mach 6 then there is a very good chance you'll be fine on the SB with a shorter stem. The SB has shorter seat tube than the Mach 6 so you should be good there. If you need more reassurance, look to see if a Pivot Demo is headed your way or travel to a shop that you know has one in stock. Yes--at $7500 I understand the concern.

 

There have been many comments on SB sizing,but to rehash my experience I too have a Mach 6 in large but purchased SB in medium and fits in cockpit almost dead on as my Mach 6.I did ride a large,way too long for my comfort but sizing is a personal choice, the only right size is what best suits you.

 

Good to know. Thanks. I'm also 5'10" but on a medium with a 50mm stem. My Mach 6 is a large. The medium fits well. Don't get wrong, it climbs great but does tend to wander a bit more uphill than my Mach 6. Perhaps I'll just drop the bars a bit lower and change the fork travel rather than switching cups.

 

'm 5'11"

 

Thanks for everybody’s opinion. At 5’8” with 30” inseam, I’m right in the split between Small and medium on the pivot chart. But since I hate the feel of being squeezed into a tight frame, I thing I’ll go for the med. I have a hard time believing a small SB will feel the same as my medium Mach 6. The only thing that worries me is that I have seen a couple of people put there switchblades up for sail for being too big. It’s a real problem having four shops around me and none of them keep high end bikes in stock. They all seem to be moving in to service repair shops to make their money, and not keeping bikes on the floor. There all happy to custom order bikes in with no guaranty on sizing.

 

Thanks for everybody's opinion. At 5'8" with 30" inseam, I'm right in the split between Small and medium on the pivot chart. But since I hate the feel of being squeezed into a tight frame, I thing I'll go for the med. I have a hard time believing a small SB will feel the same as my medium Mach 6. The only thing that worries me is that I have seen a couple of people put there switchblades up for sail for being too big. It's a real problem having four shops around me and none of them keep high end bikes in stock. They all seem to be moving in to service repair shops to make their money, and not keeping bikes on the floor. There all happy to custom order bikes in with no guaranty on sizing.

I am fortunate to have a shop that have bikes like the SB in stock when I bought mine,got to ride a medium and large.I traditionally ride large but went medium for one of the best fitting bikes I have owned, 33.5 " inseam at 5'11". Would be smart to find one to ride before laying cash out.

 

I've ridden it with the 17mm cup and without (both in 29er guise). With the cup there is a definite floppiness to the steering (more so than most 6" bikes I've ridden). When I first removed the cup I was pretty set on extending the travel to 160mm, but after a few months on the 150mm I'm in love and don't want to change anything. I'd say without the cup it isn't more or less floppy than a Mach 6, but riding a 29er uphill always feels a little different than riding a 27.5 bike.

 

So are you keeping the cup in or out as your final ride choice? I'm on 29er with the 17mm cup and enjoying it as is.

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I dont know if this helps, but I'm 5'10".
When bought my first M6 on M worked great but felt a bit cramped, changed to a L and fitted and worked great.
I'm using a 429trail in M and for sure I could use a L, but in the case of the SB the medium I've used for 5 times now it's just spot on. It is for sure other then de M6.
A friend of mine just placed an order for a SB in medium even dough he is coming from a L Intense Carbine 29.

Hope or helps.

 

Guys what are you using to re-glue the robber Frame protectors that come on the bikes?
Having peeling problems on both bikes (SB and my new M6)

Thanks

 

Hey, guys... After months of waiting, I finally got to demo a Switchblade this week. After everything I'd read, I was sure I was going to love it and it would be my next bike. Unfortunately, I just didn't feel good on it and I'm trying to figure out why.

First, I'm coming from a 2014 Stumpjumper with 29er wheels, 69 degree head tube, and 130mm of travel front and back. I like my Stumpjumper a lot, but it's beginning to feel too twitchy on the trails I'm riding now, and I wouldn't mind a bike that would smooth out the trails a bit and add more comfort, either. Seems like the Switchblade would be just the ticket, right?

I demoed the 29er setup, since I'm really all about speed and don't want to give that up for more playfulness or traction. It had the 17mm cup in as well. In practice, the Switchblade is SUPER stiff compared to my Stumpjumper. I mean instant, swing a leg over, pedal around the parking lot, and you can't miss it stiff. This seemed like a good thing and I started imagining how all that stiffness would make it climb like a beast and feel more controlled over chunder. Fast forward to the actual ride and things felt different than I expected...

Most of the trails near me are very, very rocky. Almost constant rocks in various degrees of size, exposure and looseness. That's part of what makes it tough to hold a line at high speed with my Stumpjumper coming downhill. However, I've always felt pretty good climbing on it. There's a very pleasant feeling like riding on a soft cushion going uphill with it.

I did not get that feeling climbing with the Switchblade. Despite having lots more travel in the front and a little more in the rear, the Switchblade seemed to want to ride over the rocks instead of through them. I feel like I got beaten up riding uphill, which was a weird sensation. Coming back down, the Switchblade was really everything I expected. I was able to hold my line, rail turns, and generally felt very secure on it (although much more tired from the climb than usual).

Everyone is probably going to say the shock wasn't tuned right, but I don't think that was it. I played around with the air pressure, compression damping, and rebound damping settings, and ultimately turned off LSC completely, but by the time I got it to a point where I felt like I had the initial compliance I wanted, it was blowing through its travel on small hits, so I went back to a little more air pressure. Interestingly, I ran into a guy at the top of the climb on last year's Enduro and we swapped bikes for a minute. He was almost the same size and weight, so it was a decent swap. The minute I swung a leg over the Enduro, I felt the same initial compliance that I'm used to with my Stumpy again. Back on the Switchblade, the sensation of going over the small to medium bumps instead of through them was even more obvious.

I think I could possibly add volume spacers to the shock, reduce air pressure, and get to a feel more like what I'm used to, but my question is, am I just more of an FSR rider than a DW-Link rider? I've ridden Specialized bikes for years (Stumpjumpers, Enduros, Epics, etc.), and always been happy with them. However, with all the great reviews I've seen on the Switchblade, I thought maybe it was time to try something different. Fast going up, more control going down, etc., etc. Looking at my Strava times after the ride confirmed what I was feeling. I started out the climb fast, but as I got more beaten up on the way up, I slowed down. Bottom line, the Switchblade felt like it would be a really fast, controlled bike for a younger, stronger, racier rider. Like the suspension was designed purely for control and efficiency and not for comfort. Does that sound like a reasonable conclusion, or am I missing something? Would I be better off on an FSR suspension if the comfort aspect is really important to me?

Hope some of the experts out there can help me figure out what went wrong. Thanks!

 

I'm pretty sure you're spon on in that regard. FSR bikes feel plusher while VPP (DW, Maestro) are more direct.

Give 429 Trail a go, you might like it. It's similar to SJ but climbs better and doesn't feel like a barge on tamer trails.

 

Thanks.... Interesting that you suggested the 429 Trail. That's actually exactly what the bike shop suggested, but seems counterintuitive that it would ride better than my Stumpjumper with less travel. They did suggest I do it with plus tires, which might add some plushness. The slacker HTA probably helps a bit, too...

 

Yes DW link rides a lot firmer and higher in the stroke than FSR.
But there are also other factors to consider
Tire pressure? Did ya check it as demos tend to run way too much.
Also the fox has the three settings under the climb switch. If you want it softer you should leave it it the soft setting and leave the climb switch open. I find the SB to climb extreme well for its burliness and the open position is great for techy rock climbs.

 

I did check the tire pressure. They were setup tubeless and I ran 22 in the front and 25 in the back, which is exactly what I run on my Stumpjumper. I played around with the black switch under the climb switch on the Fox Float, too. In the end, I ran the front and rear both open with the black (LSC) switches completely open.

 

It's got excellent quality of travel which is more important than quantity. Rear travel on it feels smoother than what I was getting from 140mm Trance before.
Try both wheel sizes too.

 

i think you are right on the ups the pivot is definitely stout and doesn't bob but that is what it is designed for. one the downs though I find it very controlled and not too plush yes but I think that is how I like it. anyhow as you said maybe you are just a fsr dude verse a super rad fast and dope dw style kat

 

First sort of kind of "bad" review I've seen of the Switchblade -

2017 Pivot Switchblade 29 | Blister Gear Review - Skis, Snowboards, Mountain Bikes, Climbing, Kayaking

Although he seems not to be a fan of DW-link - not supple enough. I wonder if that's a personal preference kind of thing these days. But he's reserving judgment until he has more time to do setup. Still, I was surprised about the comment it didn't feel very efficient pedaling. I didn't have that reaction from my demo ride although I'm not a pro reviewer that's ridden dozens of bikes.

 

Pretty much mirrored my review (not a pro ).It is a fun bike in the turns but did not pedal as well as others I demoed. Felt heavy.

 

I'll chime in in response to Jhair and Jms and a few more tips i've found.
For reference i'm 5'10-5'11 on a good day, and riding a medium in the 27.5+

For sizing: Definitely do a spreadsheet comparing your mach 6 to a Switchblade. Sizing is just a name applied to the bike the produce after all. I'd have a mental block about going with a small too. Focus on Reach, Wheelbase, and ETT in that order. The reach number will tell you how the cockpit will feel in comparison, the wheelbase will give you a general idea of stability, twitchy vs sled, and ETT is just a nice metric for size comparison. They ran in to this a while back on the Evil Following, many people sold their larges for mediums. Then evil changed their sizing rec's. Especially as a 29er I recommend sizing down and using a longer stem if need be since they inherently are more stable and can't be oversized or you wind up with a monster truck. Ibis figured this out and undersized their Ripley creating the first 29er that felt like a 26er.

Jhair: The Dw link is absolutely going to feel like its going over rocks and not through them, although I really think your fork sounds either under dampened or too much air. I had both in moab at first and resulted in a horrible endo in moab on the most Mickey mouse section. That being said I think the switchblade is a spectacular technical climber. I found the steering less optimal when I had it a bit higher. Since then i've gone to a 60mm stem and inverted it and put it as low as I can go. Also sizing up can help you feel in the bike more. I hate that pillowy feeling climbing on a horst link as it saps all my energy bobbing through stuff. Strictly speaking anti squat VPP is better, DW is the best. This is not a troll but what some people call twitchy others call playful. The inverse being the monster truck feeling. I would definitely put the enduro more in the monster truck category and I would put the switchblade somewhere in the middle. Thats not to say you can't flick a monster truck around it's just the amount of input you need to exert.

In summary: If you don't like DW link bikes you won't like this, at least initially. Don't get stuck on sizing names, look at the actual measurements. (and just find a pivot demo, they are on a road show at the moment)

 

I'd like to see the Switchblade to head-to-head with the Hightower.

It would be great to see more attention given to how these bikes handle the climbs and tighter single track. Seems pretty darn easy to make a long bike, with big wheels, and lots of travel go down well, but its another thing to make that bike handle well everywhere else. Fact is, when it comes to trail riding, i'm only spending about 5% my time descending. How does the bike do on the remaining 95% of the ride.

 

My close friend has the hightower and in comparison to techie steep punchy climbs I seem to be able to keep my front more grounded and stable then he does,we are both advanced riders and have been riding together for many years. Some of our local climbs have bike length close S turns and I mean riding tip of your saddle steep where you have to power your way around or lose center and kilter into fall line.We both run 160mm forks and the Hightower tends to wander more then the SB. We switched bikes and hit same lines to see if just rider fault but after several attempts he cleaned turns no problem and I cleaned once but took more effort on the Hightower felt less planted and took more focus to keep front end grounded.Each to his own just our personal experience and no disrespect to Hightower its a great bike but I am a techie and ride almost trials like terrain and features have proven time on SB to handle with complete confidence the most severe terrain you can throw at it.

 

Three SB's in our crew. Riding rocky, techy north east trails. All riders love the bike. One has it in 27.5+ mode and the other 2 in 29er

 

I need to try the standard cup and see how it works. Is it easy to swap out? I've never done that before and curious if it requires and special press tools or can I do it with standard house hold tools?

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take it to your bike shop

 

Per this thread it looks like I can take the 150mm Factory 36 that comes on my SB and convert to 160mm. Can someone confirm that's the case, and if so do I just a) remove the neg plate spacer, and b) move the transfer shaft 1 hole, per the video on FOX's website? Want to make sure before I crack open the fork, and buy a spanner for that matter.

 

Per this thread it looks like I can take the 150mm Factory 36 that comes on my SB and convert to 160mm. Can someone confirm that's the case, and if so do I just a) remove the neg plate spacer, and b) move the transfer shaft 1 hole, per the video on FOX's website? Want to make sure before I crack

Yep,just follow instructions.

 

Cool. A poster above said he's getting more front end wander with the SB than with the M6, which I own. Seated the m6 does have just a bit of wander, and I'd want my next bike to be a bit better in this regard.

Luckily my local rides have no road, all singletrack, and almost all real climbing is tech and done out of the saddle, which makes some of this discussion moot.

 

Use flush mount HS in 160mm and will SB climb anything that is humanly climbable with excellent control.

 

Hello,
That a picture with a frame XL please.
I measure 6.1 (186cm) with 36.5 (92cm) between the legs.
A comparison with the Evil Following?
Thank you