Coming May 31st, according to Pivot website. Any ideas what it is?
My old Titus Switchblade was one of my favorite bikes ever.
My old Titus Switchblade was one of my favorite bikes ever.
BmanInTheD
Yeah the Blade is a 1lbs plus heavier than the Hightower with same build, but boy it is stiff and handles great. Very happy... I tried 600b plus and its great, I just tried a Mixer..29r front and plus rear,... very intriguing setup.. only 1 ride so I will have to see..
stock 29r wheels for sale as I have a 29r set already just have to change the dang hub..the only real bummer about this bike. Someone asked for link.. here it is
Pivot Switchblade DT Swiss stock aluminum 29 wheelset - Buy and Sell Mountain Bikes and Accessories
stock 29r wheels for sale as I have a 29r set already just have to change the dang hub..the only real bummer about this bike. Someone asked for link.. here it is
Pivot Switchblade DT Swiss stock aluminum 29 wheelset - Buy and Sell Mountain Bikes and Accessories
Hi guys.
ive ridden the SB in th XT/XTR build for 3 times, still setting up the bike, but everytime feels better.
I feel my 429 trail a bit more agile uphill but i really like the feeling on the bike.
However on 2 ocations, one just starting ascending on paved road and the second on the trail whe i changed from the 34t to the 24t ring the chain got trapped between the chainstay and the ring.
Ive taken a pic recreating the position it ended up and one with the damage made to te CS. Sorry forn them being sideways, dont kow why they uploaded like that.
Any one encountered the same problem? Is this caused by a bad install of the cranks and the rings? the bike shifts perfectly otherwise, and it has happened twice.
thanks in advance.
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ive ridden the SB in th XT/XTR build for 3 times, still setting up the bike, but everytime feels better.
I feel my 429 trail a bit more agile uphill but i really like the feeling on the bike.
However on 2 ocations, one just starting ascending on paved road and the second on the trail whe i changed from the 34t to the 24t ring the chain got trapped between the chainstay and the ring.
Ive taken a pic recreating the position it ended up and one with the damage made to te CS. Sorry forn them being sideways, dont kow why they uploaded like that.
Any one encountered the same problem? Is this caused by a bad install of the cranks and the rings? the bike shifts perfectly otherwise, and it has happened twice.
thanks in advance.
Mine shifts well. I have Di2. I would take it to a good mechanic. I had the same issue with my old 429. It just needed a good mechanic to tweek the front derailleur i.e. not myself.
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About 150 miles on Swtchblade, so in initial impressions.
Half with the plus wheels and half with a 29r front and plus rear.
Hits:
Stout frame, the stiffest laterally I have ridden...by far
Pedals very well..DW link and stiff rear
Climbs very well..DW link and stiff rear
Turns very well..short rear end..stout frame
ton of tire clearance
Fox fornt and rear is easy to set up works well on 90% of the trail
Really fun
Misses
157mm rear what a pain I can not use my nice carbon boost wheelset.
157 also causes crank-set issues, seems wide at the pedals. limited choice...can not run an xtr crank q factor is too narrow.
fox shock gets overwhelmed in rougher terrain, maybe x should be stock or x2??
Slight Miss to Neutral
Its a bit heavy build and I think 157 was unnecessary and adds weight who needs 3.25 rear tire clearance..touch heavy build but its a trade off I guess for the stoutness.
30.9 seatpost...with longer droppers bigger is better
pressfit BB...ugh
Race Face Affect Sl...ugh...
Half with the plus wheels and half with a 29r front and plus rear.
Hits:
Stout frame, the stiffest laterally I have ridden...by far
Pedals very well..DW link and stiff rear
Climbs very well..DW link and stiff rear
Turns very well..short rear end..stout frame
ton of tire clearance
Fox fornt and rear is easy to set up works well on 90% of the trail
Really fun
Misses
157mm rear what a pain I can not use my nice carbon boost wheelset.
157 also causes crank-set issues, seems wide at the pedals. limited choice...can not run an xtr crank q factor is too narrow.
fox shock gets overwhelmed in rougher terrain, maybe x should be stock or x2??
Slight Miss to Neutral
Its a bit heavy build and I think 157 was unnecessary and adds weight who needs 3.25 rear tire clearance..touch heavy build but its a trade off I guess for the stoutness.
30.9 seatpost...with longer droppers bigger is better
pressfit BB...ugh
Race Face Affect Sl...ugh...
I got my SB xo eagle 29er with guide rsc brakes last week.
Put about 50 miles of rugged Utah and Wyoming climbing and descending on it so far.
My initial thoughts-
Super laterally stiff. Tracked a line better than any bike I have ridden.
Cleaned all of the tough spots on both climbing and decent to the point I had to double check if they were the sections that normally harass me. This is a hell of bike. FUN.
I am upgrading to the x2. The stock shock was fine but I wanted a little more small bump compliance and still handle bigger hits.
The fox 36 is excellent.
The front 30T ring rubbed a little on the frame and needed to send my bike back to pivot. There was like 3mm of clearance from the chain stay to start with and I think it was touching the frame when the shock cycled. Not exactly sure what's up but I'm sure they will take care of the issue. I am anxiously waiting for it's return. You may want to stay tuned if you are thinking of getting the eagle set up.
For sure want a bigger ring in front. The 30 front and 50 rear was nice going up puke hill (was able to carry a casual conversation in fact) but I really want a 32 or 34T.
The xo eagle did shift great. Super smooth.
The half pound or so that could have been saved by ditching the front derailer mounts would be welcome but not a game changer.
I would have also liked to see the cable routing stay internal and not go external under the BB.
It's obviously not as snappy as my 20lbs xc bike but it actually climbed really techy stuff better.
Felt the weight a little on super long climbs but really experienced no notable pedal bob. I am a weight weenie when it comes to xc racing but rarely thought about the extra weight while riding the SB as it climbed so well.
Generally forgot to use the shock switch and left it open. I never forgot to use the shock switch on my old all mountain ride.
Was running DHF and DHR on my last bike which I had set as the standard for an all mountain rig. I thought the high rollers were great. Good enough that I'll probably stick with the highroller going forward.
I am glad I did the carbon hoops as there is a lot of wheel mass to get rolling.
The guide brakes are outstanding, really the best non-DH brake I've ever tried, but they did squeal a little from time to time.
It should have a 150 mm option for the dropper. I'm 6'3 and would like that extra inch.
Put about 50 miles of rugged Utah and Wyoming climbing and descending on it so far.
My initial thoughts-
Super laterally stiff. Tracked a line better than any bike I have ridden.
Cleaned all of the tough spots on both climbing and decent to the point I had to double check if they were the sections that normally harass me. This is a hell of bike. FUN.
I am upgrading to the x2. The stock shock was fine but I wanted a little more small bump compliance and still handle bigger hits.
The fox 36 is excellent.
The front 30T ring rubbed a little on the frame and needed to send my bike back to pivot. There was like 3mm of clearance from the chain stay to start with and I think it was touching the frame when the shock cycled. Not exactly sure what's up but I'm sure they will take care of the issue. I am anxiously waiting for it's return. You may want to stay tuned if you are thinking of getting the eagle set up.
For sure want a bigger ring in front. The 30 front and 50 rear was nice going up puke hill (was able to carry a casual conversation in fact) but I really want a 32 or 34T.
The xo eagle did shift great. Super smooth.
The half pound or so that could have been saved by ditching the front derailer mounts would be welcome but not a game changer.
I would have also liked to see the cable routing stay internal and not go external under the BB.
It's obviously not as snappy as my 20lbs xc bike but it actually climbed really techy stuff better.
Felt the weight a little on super long climbs but really experienced no notable pedal bob. I am a weight weenie when it comes to xc racing but rarely thought about the extra weight while riding the SB as it climbed so well.
Generally forgot to use the shock switch and left it open. I never forgot to use the shock switch on my old all mountain ride.
Was running DHF and DHR on my last bike which I had set as the standard for an all mountain rig. I thought the high rollers were great. Good enough that I'll probably stick with the highroller going forward.
I am glad I did the carbon hoops as there is a lot of wheel mass to get rolling.
The guide brakes are outstanding, really the best non-DH brake I've ever tried, but they did squeal a little from time to time.
It should have a 150 mm option for the dropper. I'm 6'3 and would like that extra inch.
Does anyone know if super boost hubs are becoming available aftermarket yet? I've heard the SRAM DH is "close" on the flange spacing, but where can you buy those? Checking the online sites I didn't find them that quickly and how do you know if the flange spacing is what we need for close to super boost?
You can find these hubs anywhere look online or go to your LBS. I built my 27.5+ with XO,flange width the same as super boost.I paid 175.00 for mine. As I mentioned on earlier post Pivot wrote me and said XO 157mm DH hub an excellent choice and available now, the 52 ratchet engagement is excellent.
Would any DH hub, like a 157mm CHris King DH with a 12 TA work?
And what's all this business with chainring clearance that people are writing about? Maybe time for Pivot to consider a rear triangle dedicated to 29" tires?
And what's all this business with chainring clearance that people are writing about? Maybe time for Pivot to consider a rear triangle dedicated to 29" tires?
Damn it. I purchased a Mojo 3 before the SB came out. I started riding 27+ and really wanted a full sus version. I sort of liked it, but then we did a demo with the Pivot SB. 2 laps on the same trail (Funner in Bend, OR) ride up, rip down. The wife and I did a lap, swapped bikes, and did it again. I rode the SB first lap, then the Mojo 3.
The SB was a bit heavier but went uphill without a ton of effort. I didn't really want to admit that it rode over some tech features easier than the M3. But all in all they are pretty damn close on the climb. The descent was wildly different. The trail we rode has several rock you can roll or huck (several 4' to flat) there are also several smaller rocks you can pop off to jump over a section of rocks. The SB handled the drops with more composure better than the Nomad I used to ride. I did feel however that it took a good bit more umph and encouragement for the bike to sail over several sections. This was a little disappointing as I really love popping off of everything I can. Here's my thoughts and questions:
Both bikes used similar 27+ tires so there's little difference there. However, the M3 is a few pounds lighter. Also, while the M3 and SB both use the Factory Float DPS EVOL I have a large volume reducer in the M3. I'm guessing that I'll get a lot more pop if I build the SB a bit lighter and add that volume reducer to the rear. Does this make sense to those who have been riding their SB for a while, or am I off my nut?
The SB was a bit heavier but went uphill without a ton of effort. I didn't really want to admit that it rode over some tech features easier than the M3. But all in all they are pretty damn close on the climb. The descent was wildly different. The trail we rode has several rock you can roll or huck (several 4' to flat) there are also several smaller rocks you can pop off to jump over a section of rocks. The SB handled the drops with more composure better than the Nomad I used to ride. I did feel however that it took a good bit more umph and encouragement for the bike to sail over several sections. This was a little disappointing as I really love popping off of everything I can. Here's my thoughts and questions:
Both bikes used similar 27+ tires so there's little difference there. However, the M3 is a few pounds lighter. Also, while the M3 and SB both use the Factory Float DPS EVOL I have a large volume reducer in the M3. I'm guessing that I'll get a lot more pop if I build the SB a bit lighter and add that volume reducer to the rear. Does this make sense to those who have been riding their SB for a while, or am I off my nut?
Playful:
| adjective | play-ful |
1. A term to describe a full-suspension bike that either has a blown rear shock, or lacks rebound damping. Typically, the bike will have no stability and rebound up as fast as it's pushed down, helping people with weak upper-bodies deal with drop lips and jumps. <this fox CTD Evo shock has to be run with only 3 clicks of rebound, because otherwise it packs up, but it sure is super playful!>
2. A bike with chainstays no longer than 16.8", or when combined with the adverb "not", a way to describe bikes that are unridable, due to chainstays longer than 16.8". "I rode it down the mountain, but then I read on mtbr that the chainstays were 17.3", so I had to sell it because it wasn't playful."
| adjective | play-ful |
1. A term to describe a full-suspension bike that either has a blown rear shock, or lacks rebound damping. Typically, the bike will have no stability and rebound up as fast as it's pushed down, helping people with weak upper-bodies deal with drop lips and jumps. <this fox CTD Evo shock has to be run with only 3 clicks of rebound, because otherwise it packs up, but it sure is super playful!>
2. A bike with chainstays no longer than 16.8", or when combined with the adverb "not", a way to describe bikes that are unridable, due to chainstays longer than 16.8". "I rode it down the mountain, but then I read on mtbr that the chainstays were 17.3", so I had to sell it because it wasn't playful."
What's interesting is the black / non painted frame is more durable than the painted frames. The resin on the black frames is super tough.
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