Coming May 31st, according to Pivot website. Any ideas what it is?
My old Titus Switchblade was one of my favorite bikes ever.
My old Titus Switchblade was one of my favorite bikes ever.
Pivot Switchblade
BmanInTheD
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I'm running 25 psi front and back. I'll have to take a look at the fork...
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198 Posts
I weigh 215# and on my SB 29er I run 22 psi front, 24 psi rear and have not had a problem. My tires are the DHF 2.5 and the DHR 2.4.
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6,054 Posts
215 with pack. 2.5 DHF - 24lb. Aggressor - 30lb. Fork - 73.5lb. I added a spacer to the fork and I run it in the Trail setting which allowed me to drop the pressure. DPX2 - 200lb, Trail setting, with a extra spacer. The current suspension is awesome, but finicky to set up and very sensitive to temperature changes IMO. The fork really doesn’t like temps below 45F.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
No kidding? I'll have to play with some lower psi. The bike feels like it loses traction at times so that could help too.
This is my first bike with suspension this long so I think a lot of this might be due to my inexperience. Did you add spacers because you were bottoming out, or just to change the feel of the fork?
I was reading a thread in the suspension forum where everyone was bad mouthing the 2016 Fox 36 as being overly harsh. I'm wondering if that harshness coupled with the bike's stiffness can make it a little trickier to set up than other bikes?
As Marin said above, you need to let the fork break-in before you do anything. Set the pressures by sag and not by recommended Psi. Then ride it for a few weeks and readjust. don't make major changes until the new fork is broken in. Pivot also has recommended suspension setting on their website specifically for the SB. Use that as a guide for initial setup.
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1,246 Posts
DrDon, I'm running 85-90PSI in 36 and I weigh around 88-90kg, so I'm not sure how it's working out for you to run only 73.PSI and you're heavier than I am.
I use 70-80% of the travel most of the time unless I'm doing jumps and drops (then I use up whole travel).
On the rear, I'm running around 215PSI in the DPS to get to about 30% sag seated.
This gives me nice ride height as SB has pretty low BB and it's prone to rock strikes and has enough pop and hard hitting ability to go anywhere.
On the other hand, I'm running new Nobby Nic Addix 29x2.6 tires and would recommend them to anyone. They're amazing, roll twice as fast as Minions and grip almost as well but they're much faster in the real world if you have to pedal.
I'm running them at around 1-1.2 bar, so about 15-18PSI.
I use 70-80% of the travel most of the time unless I'm doing jumps and drops (then I use up whole travel).
On the rear, I'm running around 215PSI in the DPS to get to about 30% sag seated.
This gives me nice ride height as SB has pretty low BB and it's prone to rock strikes and has enough pop and hard hitting ability to go anywhere.
On the other hand, I'm running new Nobby Nic Addix 29x2.6 tires and would recommend them to anyone. They're amazing, roll twice as fast as Minions and grip almost as well but they're much faster in the real world if you have to pedal.
I'm running them at around 1-1.2 bar, so about 15-18PSI.
Will do. I'll check out Pivots website too.
Not sure what this is. How do you equalize the chamber?
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3,418 Posts
I've always been told to add 20 psi Max at a time and compress the fork several times add 20 psi more compress several times again and keep doing the same until you hit the desired pressure for whatever sag you want to run - 25% in my case.
Thanks, I'll give it a try.
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8,605 Posts
This a crosspost from Wheels, but I think it may get pretty good traction here as well. Thank you.
Strongest, 157 Super Boost VS Hope DH
Wheelbuilders, what is stronger, the new 157mm Super Boost Plus, or Hope's 157mm DH spacing.
Here is what I can find.
Hope tells me "Our standard 157mm hub will fit fine, the chainline and disc spacing are the same, the super boost hub only has a wider spoke angle bracing from moving the flanges closer to the disc and freehub body.
Our 157mm hub uses even spaced flanges creating a dish less spoke build, therefore arguably creates stronger wheel build than moving the flanges wider apart would."
I'm considering a frame with this spacing, and the wheels I want come with Hope hubs. Any expert advice is much appreciated.
Strongest, 157 Super Boost VS Hope DH
Wheelbuilders, what is stronger, the new 157mm Super Boost Plus, or Hope's 157mm DH spacing.
Here is what I can find.
Hope tells me "Our standard 157mm hub will fit fine, the chainline and disc spacing are the same, the super boost hub only has a wider spoke angle bracing from moving the flanges closer to the disc and freehub body.
Our 157mm hub uses even spaced flanges creating a dish less spoke build, therefore arguably creates stronger wheel build than moving the flanges wider apart would."
I'm considering a frame with this spacing, and the wheels I want come with Hope hubs. Any expert advice is much appreciated.
Attachments
I9 makes their system hubs in Super Boost spec with the wider flange spacing. I have some wheels built with them and they're stiff AF. I'm 250# and been OTB several times with no tacos or loss of true. The Hopes are solid hubs, but anyone telling you that they would be stronger without moving the flanges further outboard is full of it. It's simple physics. However, would anyone non-pro level really notice a difference? I doubt I would. But technically speaking, moving the flanges further out is definitely gonna create laterally stiffer wheels.
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632 Posts
After a demo ride blew my mind I picked up my 2017 SB demo sale Pro XT 1x 29 build from the good guys at Sonoran Cycles in Glendale, AZ tonight. Pivot lists some demo bikes on their site and sells them through dealers. Thanks to the good staff Terry and Wil for helping me out. The bike is in great shape and I saved big $.
I wanted to confirm frame size is M and don't see any markings indicating it...thoughts on what to measure to do this? Also I confirmed with my calipers that the cockpit has been changed to 31.8mm clamp bars and 60mm stem. I may leave it after trying it on a good ride tomorrow but think the bar may be aluminum (nope I pulled off a grip and it's carbon 31.8 dia cutaway on an angle so maybe a prototype to take the padlock grip?). They did put brand new HRII tires, grips and saddle on it though! Not sure about these padlock grips...may be the first change and the rear rotor upsized possibly. What a fine machine!
I wanted to confirm frame size is M and don't see any markings indicating it...thoughts on what to measure to do this? Also I confirmed with my calipers that the cockpit has been changed to 31.8mm clamp bars and 60mm stem. I may leave it after trying it on a good ride tomorrow but think the bar may be aluminum (nope I pulled off a grip and it's carbon 31.8 dia cutaway on an angle so maybe a prototype to take the padlock grip?). They did put brand new HRII tires, grips and saddle on it though! Not sure about these padlock grips...may be the first change and the rear rotor upsized possibly. What a fine machine!
Running 800 on my XL frame and I really like it.
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632 Posts
I measured my bars and they are 760. I will be changing the whole cockpit soon.... Not loving padloc. Any word on frame size identification? Also it came with the 17mm head tube cup installed. I want to remove it but not sure if I need a different cup or just pull this one off? Thanks.
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Yes, you'll need the zero cup in its place if you remove the 17mm. Just look at geo numbers for the SB on Pivot's site to find a measurement to id your frame.
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632 Posts
Okay thanks. I'm guessing I'll need 17mm of headset spacers over the stem to install with that zero cup?
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