[Err]

Considering an upgrade to the stock Float. I have a new DB Air CS (from warrantied Inline) but I am concerned from previous comments that it may have reliability issues when used on a Switchblade. The X2 is tempting but really want effective lockout/pro-pedal/descending modes. Looking into the DVO Topaz. Anybody have more detailed info/experiences with the DB Air CS or other suggestions?

I've had several CC air and coil shocks including CS and IL versions and have generally experienced solid reliability with only 1 complete failure over a nearly a 9 year run. The tuneability is excellent and it's the only shock that you can run with the CS full open, full closed, or anywhere in between. That said, the air spring curve feels a bit old school compared to the new gen Fox and the breakaway force is generally higher IME. As much as I love Cane Creek, you might actually find it to be a 1 step forward, 2 steps back scenario. I now have both a Firebird and a Switchblade, both with X2's and IMO the shortcomings of the X2's ProPedal tune is purely (at least mostly) academic. The SB with the X2 tuned well climbs as well in the open position as most bikes with ProPedal engaged. With the ProPedal on you get awesome pedal mashing support for out of the saddle charging.

I can't comment on the DVO, might be a solid option but I have zero time on the Topaz.

 

[jmd97]

Does the DVO work better than the Stock Fox shock? I would like more performance with the shock, but don't really want to add much weight or spend $600.00. The DVO at 330 grams and $419.00 looks like a good option.

 

[kenwood72]

Had a dvo on the sb when x2 was being fixed to me it was useless, bucked me off the bike no matter what i did with settings. got the x2 back and there is simply no comparison.

 

[ryknown]

Had a dvo on the sb when x2 was being fixed to me it was useless, bucked me off the bike no matter what i did with settings. got the x2 back and there is simply no comparison.

That's how I felt with the X2 - it was useless since wide-open made it a pogo-stick and the climb switch enabled was much too firm.

The DPS Fox shock worked great and better than the X2 as well, but the DPS shock got very hot riding short downhill sections (1 mile) here in Phoenix.

I just took the Switchblade with the DVO to Sedona for 25 miles of riding trails like Hogwash, Easy Breezy, Mystic, Broken Arrow, Mescal, and Canyon of Fools. It performed amazing. I do have three bands in the positive section of the shock chamber and one band in the negative.

 

[Err]

it was useless since wide-open made it a pogo-stick

I completely respect your choice to move to the DVO and it sounds like a great shock for your purposes but I wanted to point out for others that that if your X2 made your bike feel like a pogo-stick wide-open then there was either a setup issue or a problem with the shock. X2 setup can be near to overwhelming to even the most seasoned riders but it does have all the bells and whistles to dial in the open mode performance any way you want it (within reason). Usually when I see a complaint like this it's due to some combination of not quite enough PSI, too little LSC, and/or too little LSR.

As for the performance with the ProPedal enabled, yeah, it's quite firm and not for everyone. Personally, I like that attribute in most situations but I understand why many might not. Riding in the desert SW in particular with all the ledges is not the best place to use an X2 with ProPedal engaged, it just makes the rear want to hang-up.

 

[kenwood72]

What he said, also you may simply not be rad enough for an x2-sorry!!

 

[ryknown]

I completely respect your choice to move to the DVO and it sounds like a great shock for your purposes but I wanted to point out for others that that if your X2 made your bike feel like a pogo-stick wide-open then there was either a setup issue or a problem with the shock. X2 setup can be near to overwhelming to even the most seasoned riders but it does have all the bells and whistles to dial in the open mode performance any way you want it (within reason). Usually when I see a complaint like this it's due to some combination of not quite enough PSI, too little LSC, and/or too little LSR.

Yep, the X2 is more difficult than most shocks to set up, which is why we have another forum topic just on how to set the X2 for their Switchblade. After I could not get the X2 where I wanted it, I hired a suspension expert to meet me at local trail to set it up with me. We readjusted and retested the shock over and over for a few hours. While this made the X2 better, the shock still had a lot of movement while pedaling unless the climb switch was engaged. That was not the case with the DVO. I put it on, set the sag, and added the bands based on recommendations I found on another reviewer's site. I spent about two hours total setting the DVO up and on the first ride, it rode better (for me) than the X2.

Ultimately, I did not enjoy the constant fiddling with the X2 without getting the desired results. The X2 was not for me - I'm glad it's working for you. But, if there is someone else wondering if anyone likes the DVO Topaz on the Switchblade, I do.

I appreciate the discussion. By the way, Sedona was awesome. It's a great place to ride!

 

[Buffalo Soldier]

Just got back from Sedona. The X2 is a little squishy on flatter trails. Initially drove to Yuma for good weather and I had to firm up the shock for the smooth trails there. Overall I like it much better than the DPS. I am sending the fork and shock to Avalanche. Not really necessary, but nothing but the best for my baby. I personally don't think the SB is a good choice if your trails don't have a good bit of chunk.


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[g.law]

I just ordered the Fox X2 for my Switchblade and I'm looking for an initial set up to get started on tuning it. I weigh 195lbs ready to ride. Anybody have input on set up to get me started?

 

[HoJo]

G law go to pivot cycles setup page. They have good detailed info for x2 setup. I used their recommendations and I'm very happy. The SB is very good w this shock

 

[ryknown]

I just ordered the Fox X2 for my Switchblade and I'm looking for an initial set up to get started on tuning it. I weigh 195lbs ready to ride. Anybody have input on set up to get me started?

HoJo is right... Others have said what's on the Pivot site is a great starting point. Here's my settings.
Rear Shock = Fox x2 2017 Post Recall Purchase @ 215 PSI
LSC = 13 ( all settings are from closed)
HSC = 3
LSR = 6
HSR = 12

I am 6' with shoes and weigh 210lbs geared up.

 

[Buffalo Soldier]

G law go to pivot cycles setup page. They have good detailed info for x2 setup. I used their recommendations and I'm very happy. The SB is very good w this shock

That's what I did. I'm happy with the results.

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[Pyrider]

Hy guys ! Some pictures with the Switch, still loving riding with this bike

 

[dyg2001]

My beloved Switchblade was stolen from my garage in San Diego a few weeks ago

Serial number VC16H02286

Size XL blue frame, Fox 36 Talas 160/130 fork, Fox X2 shock, Fox Transfer dropper post (gold), SRAM Eagle drivetrain, SRAM Guide Ultimate brakes (silver), 29er wheelset with "black aura" sparkly Onyx hubs, Nox carbon rims, Schwalbe Nobby Nic 29x2.6" tires, and XTR 180mm rotors

Please let me know if you see it

Thanks,

David

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[Buffalo Soldier]

Ok drive train experts, here ya go.....

1. I switched the SixC cranks from my 429T to my Switchblade and put the Next SLs on my 429T. I also swapped spindles. The 429T is creaking again after changing the BB and the preload collar keeps loosening. It only creaks when loading the non drive side and it is very loud. Everything is lubed and tight. My shop has been doing the work. It is not a Pivot dealer.

2. The front derailleur on my Switchblade seems to go out of adjustment now after swapping cranks. I don't know if this a use issue and will require periodic adjustments. I'm wondering if this and the aforementioned issues are second to not being able to set up the bike properly. Dialing in the chain line has proven difficult.

Could the spindle lengths so off that dialing in the chain line with spacers is impossible? The spindle lengths on 68/73mm Next SL and SixC cranks are different. At this point I'm thinking swapping the cranks back although I can't remember what the original spacer locations are.


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[kenbentit]

The stock spacer setup for Next SL cranks on a Switchblade will be 3 1mm spacers & 1 2.5 mm spacer on the Non-Drive side plus the dust seal, 1 1mm spacer & 1 2.5mm spacer on the drive side plus dust seal (running a 30t ring). Not sure why the preload collar is loosening up, is the pinch bolt maybe stripped? I really haven't done much front der setup with that bike as most people are going to 1x setups now but I can't think of any reason why it would be going out of adjustment. It's the side swing FD? Those have been bulletproof in my experience so far...

Ok drive train experts, here ya go.....

1. I switched the SixC cranks from my 429T to my Switchblade and put the Next SLs on my 429T. I also swapped spindles. The 429T is creaking again after changing the BB and the preload collar keeps loosening. It only creaks when loading the non drive side and it is very loud. Everything is lubed and tight. My shop has been doing the work. It is not a Pivot dealer.

2. The front derailleur on my Switchblade seems to go out of adjustment now after swapping cranks. I don't know if this a use issue and will require periodic adjustments. I'm wondering if this and the aforementioned issues are second to not being able to set up the bike properly. Dialing in the chain line has proven difficult.

Could the spindle lengths so off that dialing in the chain line with spacers is impossible? The spindle lengths on 68/73mm Next SL and SixC cranks are different. At this point I'm thinking swapping the cranks back although I can't remember what the original spacer locations are.

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[Buffalo Soldier]

The stock spacer setup for Next SL cranks on a Switchblade will be 3 1mm spacers & 1 2.5 mm spacer on the Non-Drive side plus the dust seal, 1 1mm spacer & 1 2.5mm spacer on the drive side plus dust seal (running a 30t ring). Not sure why the preload collar is loosening up, is the pinch bolt maybe stripped? I really haven't done much front der setup with that bike as most people are going to 1x setups now but I can't think of any reason why it would be going out of adjustment. It's the side swing FD? Those have been bulletproof in my experience so far...

It's Di2 on the Switchblade and 1X on the 429T. Thanks.

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[kenbentit]

Ahhh, Di2! I'l ask around at the shop and see if anybody has heard of that happening, may be a programming issue. I know it's setup to auto-trim itself thru the gear range but maybe there's something happening with that.

It's Di2 on the Switchblade and 1X on the 429T. Thanks.

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[Krompa]

I'm 190 cm and 110 kg so I need pretty much max psi in both fork and shock. Running with the tall cup. Has had some pedal strike issues but think I've found the hang of it and working pressures now.

So "max psi" was a bit false...
The recommendations below are from Pivot web site's PDF. It's a bit confusing that they use other methods about dial turning and pressures than what Fox manuals but maybe the custom tuning needs it to be so?

Fox manuals say:
2016 & 2017 36 FLOAT maximum air pressure is 125psi
2016 & 2017 EVOL equipped FLOAT DPS shocks have a maximum pressure of 350psi

My (110 kg = 243 pounds) settings now are:

299 psi
10 clicks clockwise. Recommended is between 5-10.
Mark 2 on the black inner dial.
Puts me right on the sag indicator line.

99 psi
8 clicks clockwise on red dial below fork leg. Recommended is 5-8.
8 clicks clockwise on top. The "center" click that you feel. Recommended is 2-8.
This puts me around 25mm sag. 23mm = 15%, 30mm = 20%

Will experiment a bit more with the dialing but this feels pretty good when going fast.

 

[Jman0000]

Industry Nine "system" wheels???

Anybody put a set of I9 system wheels (the ones with threaded hubs and thick ano/AL spokes) on their SB yet? You have to use the DH150 hub with 157 endcaps. However the wider super boost spacing is not available yet in these hubs, just the classic j-bends. I just wanted to know if anyone has used the DH hubs and especially if anyone has compared them to the stock j-bends. My concern is this: Are the system wheels with DH157 hubs, thick AL spokes but narrower flange spacing as stiff as wheels with the regular j-bend spokes with the wider flange (super-boost) spacing? Thx in advance...