I could measure when I get home if you don't get your answer before 4:30.

 

473mm ±5 @95mm, A2C is the same on all models, same lowers and same uppers(in design at least).

Info available in the rock shox website.

 

http://sram.com/en/service/rockshox/view.php?catID=5&subcatID=2

http://sram.com/_media/techdocs/Pike US4-309054-010_D.pdf

 

Hence why you can switch Pike internals into Argyle lowers and vice versa?

and while we're on topic, there was a thread on PinkBike that mentioned sponsored RockShox riders were using Pike with spacers to lower them.

If that's the case, then I'll pick up a 95-140mm Extra-Firm and lower it that way, rather then running the Duke springs.

 

Hence why you can switch Pike internals into Argyle lowers and vice versa?

and while we're on topic, there was a thread on PinkBike that mentioned sponsored RockShox riders were using Pike with spacers to lower them.

If that's the case, then I'll pick up a 95-140mm Extra-Firm and lower it that way, rather then running the Duke springs.

If I were to do a franken fork I'd get the pike 454 uppers for lower a2c height, less weight with the hollow crown, alu stanchions and alu steerer, with argyle lowers(because let's face it, their paintjob rocks) with argyle internals, the whole thing lowered to 80mm with the included spacer.

 

Thanks snaky... That missed my sight first time 'round....

So, can you lower argyles/pikes without having to cut anything? Most of the selling point on the 426 right now is the 95-140 adjustment.

 

Thanks snaky... That missed my sight first time 'round....

So, can you lower argyles/pikes without having to cut anything? Most of the selling point on the 426 right now is the 95-140 adjustment.

You can drop the duke springs in the pike after a little top cap mod, otherwise I think you have to cut the springs.

 

Sorry for my stupidity, but what spring are you refering to?

 

Sorry for my stupidity, but what spring are you refering to?

With the duke spring(and that's from my understanding, I may be wrong) you can simply drop them in the pike after modifying the top caps slightly to accept them.

Without going to the duke springs and keeping the stock pike/argyle springs, AFAIK you have some negative spring cutting to do.

 

The Rockshox Duke is one of their old forks. They also had a model that used U-turn. It wound from like 63mm to 108mm or something like that. Order the x-firm Duke spring from QBP/BTI/whatever. Then you remove the c-clip that holds the top cap to the spring assy. You swap the top cap from the Pike spring.

You can also reduce it by stretching the spring and threading the plastic piece further up the spring. U-turn is stupid simple. It's a base that threads to the lowers with a plastic screw-type wedge attached. As you turn the knob the coil threads down onto the plastic piece. It hits a bunch of closely wound coils - that is the limit to how far you can extend or lower it with a stock spring.

There is no "negative spring" in the Coil U-turn Pike.

Air Pikes can be reduced with the use of all-travel spacers that clip onto the assy.

Personally, I'd pick Pike uppers, Argyle lowers, Reba internals... I wonder if the new SID Blackbox stuff would fit...

Only the 454 has an alu steer tube - it also has a hollow crown. Most people pick the 409/426 for the more solid steel steer tube and solid crown.

 

The Rockshox Duke is one of their old forks. They also had a model that used U-turn. It wound from like 63mm to 108mm or something like that. Order the x-firm Duke spring from QBP/BTI/whatever. Then you remove the c-clip that holds the top cap to the spring assy. You swap the top cap from the Pike spring.

You can also reduce it by stretching the spring and threading the plastic piece further up the spring. U-turn is stupid simple. It's a base that threads to the lowers with a plastic screw-type wedge attached. As you turn the knob the coil threads down onto the plastic piece. It hits a bunch of closely wound coils - that is the limit to how far you can extend or lower it with a stock spring.

There is no "negative spring" in the Coil U-turn Pike.

Air Pikes can be reduced with the use of all-travel spacers that clip onto the assy.

Personally, I'd pick Pike uppers, Argyle lowers, Reba internals... I wonder if the new SID Blackbox stuff would fit...

Only the 454 has an alu steer tube - it also has a hollow crown. Most people pick the 409/426 for the more solid steel steer tube and solid crown.

EEK! the U-turn sounds like it's going to give way... I'm a bit worried as to how you described that.. But they also seem bombproof. How do they hold up to being thrashed at either setting? Also, the 426, is it a coil-air, or just strictly coil and oil for dampening?

I really like the idea of having a fork I can ride at a street setting, and a fork I can pump up for a bit more.. FR'ish stuff. Nothing crazy, a few drops here n there.

 

EEK! the U-turn sounds like it's going to give way... I'm a bit worried as to how you described that.. But they also seem bombproof. How do they hold up to being thrashed at either setting? Also, the 426, is it a coil-air, or just strictly coil and oil for dampening?

I really like the idea of having a fork I can ride at a street setting, and a fork I can pump up for a bit more.. FR'ish stuff. Nothing crazy, a few drops here n there.

Nope. U-turn is solid. It's a simple design that works. They've been using it for years... back in the day, it was about the only thing on a Rockshox fork that DIDN'T break. They even use it on the Boxxer Ride.

Pike used to be on my Coiler - sat at 140 most of the time. Beat the crap out of it. Now it's on my Addict - sits ta 95 most of the time. Beat the crap out of it. The spring rate doesn't really change as you change the travel either.

426 is available in Coil U-turn, dual air (all travel spacers), and U-turn Air. U-turn air only drops down to 110mm.

 

Nope. U-turn is solid. It's a simple design that works. They've been using it for years... back in the day, it was about the only thing on a Rockshox fork that DIDN'T break. They even use it on the Boxxer Ride.

Pike used to be on my Coiler - sat at 140 most of the time. Beat the crap out of it. Now it's on my Addict - sits ta 95 most of the time. Beat the crap out of it. The spring rate doesn't really change as you change the travel either.

426 is available in Coil U-turn, dual air (all travel spacers), and U-turn Air. U-turn air only drops down to 110mm.

Everything I'm hearing is solid on this fork... Only thing is I dont know if the coil will handle my weight? at around 180 in street gear?

 

X-firm Duke Spring should be the ticket. I weigh about 150 and rock the Pike x-firm spring. The Duke spring has an elastomer crammed in there. It helps to prevent bottoming.

 

X-firm Duke Spring should be the ticket. I weigh about 150 and rock the Pike x-firm spring. The Duke spring has an elastomer crammed in there. It helps to prevent bottoming.

I'm still a bit confused on this part... Does the duke spring still allow travel adjust? And say I wanted to have more adjustability in the pike, as far as stiffness, etc. Would an air model be the better choice? Thanks Will.

 

Yes. It just doesn't go up to 140mm anymore. It goes from 60-some to 100-some mm. It's still U-turn.

Air is more tuneable but will require more maintenance in the long run. It also does not have as wide of a range for travel adjust. I do not know how to reduce the air u-turn past 110mm. I do know how to reduce the dual air lower.

 

With the duke spring(and that's from my understanding, I may be wrong) you can simply drop them in the pike after modifying the top caps slightly to accept them.

Without going to the duke springs and keeping the stock pike/argyle springs, AFAIK you have some negative spring cutting to do.

For the last time man... you DON'T cut the negative spring. Cutting the negative spring means that it will extend further up. You want to EXTEND the effective length of the negative spring so it tops out sooner.

 

For the last time man... you DON'T cut the negative spring. Cutting the negative spring means that it will extend further up. You want to EXTEND the effective length of the negative spring so it tops out sooner.

You're repeating yourself there Will, you already said that a few post back.

It's all good. I figured since marzocchi/manitou forks needed to get their spring lopped off and spaced out, so did rock shox.

I'd be quite curious to try a lowering(on any given fork) myself, but my friends are still stuck in the "more travel is better" phase of their fork knowledge, and mine, well, no point in lowering it any more is there?

 

So you can lower the dual-air with spacers, but not the normal Coil the same way?

Does the COIL version have a negative spring in the non-uturn side? If so, why can't it be spaced out?

 

So you can lower the dual-air with spacers, but not the normal Coil the same way?

Does the COIL version have a negative spring in the non-uturn side? If so, why can't it be spaced out?

Well, let's all take a look at the exploded diagram.

http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/2008 RS SPC_95-4315-001-000_Reba_RVL_Pike_Argyle_WEB_B.pdf

On page 18.

Will, please chime in, how do you go about lowering this bad boy?

 

You're repeating yourself there Will, you already said that a few post back.

It's all good. I figured since marzocchi/manitou forks needed to get their spring lopped off and spaced out, so did rock shox.

I'd be quite curious to try a lowering(on any given fork) myself, but my friends are still stuck in the "more travel is better" phase of their fork knowledge, and mine, well, no point in lowering it any more is there?

Yes... but you DON'T lop off the negative spring...

 

So you can lower the dual-air with spacers, but not the normal Coil the same way?

Does the COIL version have a negative spring in the non-uturn side? If so, why can't it be spaced out?

EDITED:

Ugh... Way to go snaky... confusing people. j/k

NO! There is only a coil on the U-turn side... And yes... your fork is a coil (which I assume you realize after your thread on the SRAM board)... And no... there is not a negative spring (as already stated)... The non U-turn side is the damper side... where the dampers are... Comeon... let's think about this a little bit...

The ways to reduce it are stated above. Scroll up and read. And I believe I have already told you how to reduce this fork in another thread... and how you CANNOT use a dye spring.

There is no "normal" coil. There is only the U-turn coil... and it works quite differently than the dual air (which I had not only explained, but can be deduced using logic). Obviously an air spring is quite different from a wound coil. You can also reduce the travel but upping the negative pressure in the dual air (does not apply to the coil or air u-turn). This basically does not allow the fork to extend back up. But it can be hard on the internals... and since you have the all-travel spacers... and it's a 5 minute job... might as well use those.

 

Yes... but you DON'T lop off the negative spring...

Alright, I gotcha now.

Looking at the diagram I can see quite clearly how u-turn works, and I can also see why it has a precise range of adjustement.

Lowering it using the stock spring would mean using the same... how the hell can I say it... "pattern" for the winding of the spring, but further up(not having that "tight spot" in the spring)

Technically by unwinding that spot and giving it the same angle as the rest you could have infinite travel adjust no?

*just rambling here*

Would making a "tightly wound" spot further up the spring, and unwinding the current one and lopping off the excess essentially make it very very similar to the duke U-turn spring?

Note to self: I hate having english as a second language when I have to explain a train of thought like that.

 

Winding and unwinding coils is extremely hard... to use the Pike spring all you do is spread the coils temporarily so the u-turn piece can thread through them. Think of the u-turn as the screw, and the coil as the threads. You're just threading a screw in. By threading it past those bunched coils you theoretically get 0-65ish mm of travel. It's also been theorized that you can get about 160mm of travel out of the Pike by extending the length of the base that is attached to the lowers via use of a tight fitting spacer and longer bolt. There is enough bushing overlap and freelength in the spring.

I believe the Duke coil uses a shorter base but the same free length in the spring. I don't remember. I don't currently have both springs in front of me - though I have them at home... 200 miles away.

 

Winding and unwinding coils is extremely hard... to use the Pike spring all you do is spread the coils temporarily so the u-turn piece can thread through them. Think of the u-turn as the screw, and the coil as the threads. You're just threading a screw in. By threading it past those bunched coils you theoretically get 0-65ish mm of travel. It's also been theorized that you can get about 160mm of travel out of the Pike by extending the length of the base that is attached to the lowers via use of a tight fitting spacer and longer bolt. There is enough bushing overlap and freelength in the spring.

I believe the Duke coil uses a shorter base but the same free length in the spring. I don't remember. I don't currently have both springs in front of me - though I have them at home... 200 miles away.

Yes just by looking at the diagram I could see how u-turn worked.(I'd always wondered about that so it's kinda cool that a topic like this made me look for the exploded diagram of the fork).

Unwinding coils musn't be a really fun job, and unless you're crazily strong, you can't really deform a fork spring with your hands, you'd have to heat it, and I don't know what that'd do to the spring's temper and the spring's rate.

I remember you saying you'd done it on a friends Pike, is it still working to this day?