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I would personally go with the Ransom. Remote lockouts for climbing and is a definite big boy bike. Although, I think your bike can handle it all with some cushcore and dialed setup.

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I can't speak for anyone else, but I don't use lockouts for climbing. I don't even stiffen up the suspension AT ALL on my Enduro, full open. Even on a big climbing day. Only place I like a lockout is full sprinting in XC. Even then I find myself locking the suspension less and less even on my XC bike.
 
I can't speak for anyone else, but I don't use lockouts for climbing. I don't even stiffen up the suspension AT ALL on my Enduro, full open. Even on a big climbing day. Only place I like a lockout is full sprinting in XC. Even then I find myself locking the suspension less and less even on my XC bike.
Fair enough. I dont lock out my bikes either but I dont have 170mm of travel lol.

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Discussion starter · #24 ·
I can't speak for anyone else, but I don't use lockouts for climbing. I don't even stiffen up the suspension AT ALL on my Enduro, full open. Even on a big climbing day. Only place I like a lockout is full sprinting in XC. Even then I find myself locking the suspension less and less even on my XC bike.
I rarely change my compression settings for climbing on my current bike, but I do leave it on the medium setting a lot a lot for my everyday rides where I prefer a bit poppier/more supportive rear end as I don't really need to soak up anything too big.

So while I'm not really a huge fan of flipping climb switches, the Ransom actually really appeals to me. From the sound of things, it's character does really change in the 120mm mode and it feels much more like a trail bike. If I was going to have one bike, it seems promising (though the most adjustment is only available on more expensive trims).
 
If I'm hammering the chunk on my 160mm bike I need to go to the middle mode or I'll get a lot of pedal strikes. There's nothing wrong with the bb height or shock; it just goes deep into its travel over moderate speed pedally tech. For this reason I'd prefer a bar mounted switch, just so I don't have to reach down. Even better with a Di2 like motor on the shock. Or wireless.
 
I can't speak for anyone else, but I don't use lockouts for climbing. I don't even stiffen up the suspension AT ALL on my Enduro, full open. Even on a big climbing day. Only place I like a lockout is full sprinting in XC. Even then I find myself locking the suspension less and less even on my XC bike.
If you do a lot of tech climbing, lockouts or "climb" settings are ultra annoying, as your bike bucks and kicks on every little impact. This is why I'd rather have a good suspension design first, then I'll soften it up with a coil for terrain if the mfr can't nail the shock tune.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
If you do a lot of tech climbing, lockouts or "climb" settings are ultra annoying, as your bike bucks and kicks on every little impact. This is why I'd rather have a good suspension design first, then I'll soften it up with a coil for terrain if the mfr can't nail the shock tune.
I don't like full lockouts for the same reason, but I have few issues climbing with my Topaz on its middle compression setting. The Ransom's setup seems to be a further evolution of that (adjusting compression and travel, so the shock basically acts like it was on a 120mm bike). Most people I've read posts from basically don't use the full lock out and a lot have removed the lockout from the fork entirely, but they seem to love the rear adjustments.
 
Or option 3. Sell the bronson upgrade to a bigger hitting enduro bike and buy a second hand rig for the shuttle days.

Put Rocky Mountain Slayer on your list. It will do everything the Bronson does, will weight slightly less, pedal uphill as good or better and is a monster on the down. Its insane what the slayer can ride through. I am typically faster on the slayer on my dh tracks that a rig for all but the stupedist gnarly lines. Even then over the hole track the slayer typically kicks arse.]
I do like these Slayers.
 
I was in the same boat recently and picked the YT Capra to replace my Santa Cruz Heckler. Went with the Al Comp as it has the component build I wanted and I don't need/want carbon. Pretty tough to beat the value they sell these at! I looked at the Canyons too but I demo'ed the Capra and was really stoked on it.
I've had it for less than 2 weeks and still getting the suspension dialed in "just right" but it's a freakin' blast. Absolutely bombs downhill! Uphill it's a slight bit more work than my Heckler was but it's not too bad at all. I don't concern myself with uphill speed - I'd rather get max enjoyment on the downhills and parks. Happy with my choice.
Also, this week I did PR a climb that I've been riding for over 5 years. Maybe I was just trying to convince myself the bike can go uphill too! Who knows, but results are results, and having ridden that climb so many times previously it must mean something ;)
 
I am running a two-bike stable that includes a mid-level coil GG Megatrail. My other bike is a high-end Ibis Mojo3 (140/130) set up as a plus bike. The MT destroy the Ibis on the descents. Where the Ibis feels harsh, the MT floats. The longer wheel base of the MT also makes a significant difference cornering - very stable with no twitch.
Initially I couldn't really tell much difference between the modes on the MT but now on long ride days switching between climbing and descending really makes a difference. Just this last weekend I pulled off a 40 mile ride with 5,500 ft of climbing and descending on the MT. I would never have thought the MT would handle that as well as it did - blew me away. I suspect the climbing position on the MT may be better than the Ibis and it 'almost' makes up for the 7lb weight penalty. The Ibis is still way more poppy than the MT.
 
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