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New Mojo 3 On The Way?

13K views 62 replies 27 participants last post by  smoothmoose  
#1 ·
I realize this is crystal ballin', but just curious if anyone had some input if Ibis may soon be updating the Mojo 3 which is now a couple of years old? Thanks
 
#3 ·
Sometimes I wonder why people are so obsessed with "updates".

Really: between my original Mojo Classic (2005) and my current HD3 the only significant differences are the head angle, and the stiffer rear. The minors are the tapered fork, the length (I could have picked a large instead of medium, same result), and the 650b wheels.

Two years? What do you think could have changed in two years for a frame!
 
#12 ·
I'm wondering as well.

Seems like everyone is headed toward the 76+ seat tube angle and the offset forks like the Ripmo, New Yeti SB1XX series...
I hope ALL bikes don't go this route. Granted, steep ST's are really good for longer-travel bikes with slacker HTA's that pretty much only go up steep and then down steep. But I don't really like that steep of a ST on a 67-68* bike with more gradual hills or more flattish terrain. JMO but I don't like riding a 76* ST on a lot of (most of) my local trails. In the mountains, yeah.
 
#14 ·
What does a steeper STA actually give?
With all said and done, once your seat position relative to the BB is dialed in what difference does it make if the STA is 70 or 75 deg? You are positioned at the same spot while riding anyway.
Some say a steeper STA puts you 'on top of the BB'. Well... that depends on the seat post set-back and saddle position.
Can someone clarify this?
 
#15 ·
The steeper seat tube angle is part of the longer reach/ increased front center idea. Meaning, as bike manufacturers increase the front length of the bike, the riders body positions needs to move forward in order to keep the front wheel weighted and have the body weight distributed evenly on the bike.
 
#18 ·
What does a steeper STA actually give?
...
Nothing much. Just push you saddle forward if you like a more forward position.

There are limits: for the same saddle position on the seat post, the difference between a 74 and a 76 angle results in a 2.5 cm move forward for a 1 meter distance BB to saddle. 75 to 76 is around 1.3 cm.

Of course you cannot push the position too much forward! :nono:
 
#32 ·
But when spinning on flat/undulated ground I would rather have the saddle back where it was.
Exactly. New school steep seat angle geometry is based on the fact that most of the important MTB seated pedaling occurs on climbs that are often steep (ie: over 10%). KOPS is a road concept, predicated on the fact that you pedal seated on all sorts of terrain (and rarely over 7-8%). I too had an HD3 (and a Ripley) with saddles scooted all the way forward. Now on a Ripmo and it offers a far more useful range of saddle adjustment (and yes my knees are far happier).
 
#35 ·
Exactly. New school steep seat angle geometry is based on the fact that most of the important MTB seated pedaling occurs on climbs that are often steep (ie: over 10%). KOPS is a road concept, predicated on the fact that you pedal seated on all sorts of terrain (and rarely over 7-8%). I too had an HD3 (and a Ripley) with saddles scooted all the way forward. Now on a Ripmo and it offers a far more useful range of saddle adjustment (and yes my knees are far happier).
I think you believe (and seem to repeat) the commercials of the bike industry a bit too much. Example? The press release of the new Norco Fluid "A longer reach and steeper seat angle create a more forward riding position keeping you centered on the bike and putting you in an efficient pedalling (sic) position. This allows you to punch up climbs effortlessly while having the grip and control to stick your lines and push into corners confidently."

Than you read the specs and it turns out the seat angle is 74.5 :madman: If they convince people to buy a new bike because of a 0.5 degree difference from the norm they are real marketing geniuses! :thumbsup:
 
#21 ·
My Ripley LS wishlist:

-Lower seatmast and standover
-Ditch the sloppy/creaky clevis mount for the lower shock eyelet. For a $3k frame I shouldn't have to wrap my shock eyelets in rim tape to have a quiet bike.
-Let us flip the shock to fit a full size bottle without hitting the climb switch on the Float.
-Stiffen up the rear end a little / drop the FD Mount
-Find a flexible paint that doesn't crack. On my third V2 swingarm that looks like it's cracked even though I now know it's probably just the paint.
-Better downtube protection that extends to beneath the BB
-Slacken HA a smidge
-Steepen SA a smidge
-Design around a 140mm 36 [emoji48]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#63 ·
With all the 29er hype - I think a new Ripley may come before Mojo4.