Ive placed a 22oz in my medium frame and looks like the float x2 will hit the bottle. I dont think itll work. Thats a bummer. I really liked having a 28oz bottle on my mojo3.

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I have the same issue with a large frame and the float x2. It is a little better with the Arundel side loader cage since it has two different sets of mounting holes but I need to find a bottle that is about a 1/2 inch shorter.

 

I dont think anything useful can be used with the float x2 on my medium. Would be nice to have an odd shaped 1L custom made bottle. I dont want to hang a stubby 16oz, looks stupid.

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I see all this water bottle talk, and I could not imagine drinking less than half to 1 gallon of water on my rides; I'm firmly in the Camelback camp. Is that water bottle on you guy's frames the only water you drink when you're riding?


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You guys are so SLACKED OUT!! Jealous over here, keep the pics comin' :thumbsup:

 

Some ppl train not to need so much water but i go through 2-3 liters in 3hrs if its hot and much less when its not.

Went out riding today
New dirt, riding blind. Hd4 performed flawlessly. It gives up a little to the m3 but only a little. Its the combo of weight and slackness BUT you give up a little and get more confidence on the downs. I'll take it. The low seat tube length and flats saved my ass as a hit a turn on a soft corner. I dab'd quick like Bruce Lee. I took some ibuprofen for my sore muscles the other day which i think was from having my seat 1 inch too low. Im very happy with the hd4. Now i need to figure out the water siruatiin1
Might need to get a bum pack like the evoc race. Its 1.5L which is probably a little overstated. I got a few mutherload straps too. If anyone wants to buy a new one in teal. let me know. Thr default suspension settings seems to be perfect so far. Im running 15%/25% sag. The HD4 is a good pedaler in open mode. 2.8 rekons have been great. Would like to try 2.6 to see what its like.

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Some ppl train not to need so much water but i go through 2-3 liters in 3hrs if its hot and much less when its not.

Went out riding today
New dirt, riding blind. Hd4 performed flawlessly. It gives up a little to the m3 but only a little. Its the combo of weight and slackness BUT you give up a little and get more confidence on the downs. I'll take it. The low seat tube length and flats saved my ass as a hit a turn on a soft corner. I dab'd quick like Bruce Lee. I took some ibuprofen for my sore muscles the other day which i think was from having my seat 1 inch too low. Im very happy with the hd4. Now i need to figure out the water siruatiin1
Might need to get a bum pack like the evoc race. Its 1.5L which is probably a little overstated. I got a few mutherload straps too. If anyone wants to buy a new one in teal. let me know. Thr default suspension settings seems to be perfect so far. Im running 15%/25% sag. The HD4 is a good pedaler in open mode. 2.8 rekons have been great. Would like to try 2.6 to see what its like.

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My 22oz bottle clears the X2 no problem.
It didn't clear at first, it would bump the bottle forward into the frame when there was about 15mm of stanchion left.
I had to move the Arundel side loader to the upper mounting holes to push it closer to the seat tube. Then had to put some washers ( 2 back, 1 forward) under the cage so the back bottom of the cage doesn't rub the frame. Now the back of the bottle just rests against the seat tube, so I put a little protective tape there. Works great now.

 

Road with the trek girls group ride today at sycamore. First time at beelers and Martha. The m3 feels a little lighter and climbs a little easier and a little easier to turn on tight switchbacks which all makes sense. I still prefer the hd4 for what i want. If i was more trail and xc, m3 all the way. I like more rocky tech sections. The hd4 climbs better on techy sections though. Not sure why.

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Road with the trek girls group ride today at sycamore. First time at beelers and Martha. The m3 feels a little lighter and climbs a little easier and a little easier to turn on tight switchbacks which all makes sense. I still prefer the hd4 for what i want. If i was more trail and xc, m3 all the way. I like more rocky tech sections. The hd4 climbs better on techy sections though. Not sure why.

Cool! I think I know someone from that ride group. I haven't rode there in a while. Glad you are liking it so far. Probably a much bigger change from the M3 then from an HD3.

 

I am having a hell of a time getting the HD4 cockpit set-up for my liking.

In some respects it is unfair, as I have the Evil Calling dialed for me. The Calling fits me like a glove. It fits so well, that it lets me do so many fun things when riding it. Here's the weird thing, the HD4 which has a longer front center yet feels smaller when out of the saddle.

I have been beyond fickle with the set-up, changing spacers under the stem, bar roll, bar width, etc. I do think I am closer. The Calling has a higher stack and I have a spacer under the stem, but I have learned that I can't set the HD4 similarly owing to the longer front center. I know I am tweener size being 5' 8.5", but the large would be too big. I don't like short stems, I prefer 50mm. I also have the Firebird and that bike feels long. I was something more playful.

I really want to get the fit dialed as I truly believe the HD4's extra travel and geometry will make it perfect match for the Calling.

Positives....
1) I use to think the Insurgent was one of the best pedaling bikes, but this one is better. It just accelerates when in the saddle. Cliche but true, it feels like you have an extra gear with this bike. The suspension is not as plush when pedaling, but you can motor up and over things, it requires a different technique to get to the top.
2) Once you get the HD4 going, wow it comes alive, it almost scary and you start to feel like the riders in the video. It is cool feeling, but I haven't been consistent doing this yet.
3) The color, looks, bottle in triangle, threaded BB, etc are awesome
4) Fox Transfer post works great
5) no low BB issues that I had with the Mojo 3

Negatives
1) I do find HD4 noisy, I get these weird pops/creaks here and there.
2) Not sure about the Fox 36, I use to be a Fox guy, than I went Pike/Lyrik with MRP and the Fox just feels harsh and I think makes the rear end feel a tad harsh, if I let the air out it sags too much for liking.
3) just can't dial the bike in yet - this probably more me than anything.

More to follow when I finally dial it in...

 

I do find HD4 noisy, I get these weird pops/creaks here and there

Have you checked the torques on all the linkage bolts?

 

My hd4 is pretty quiet. Only one gear makes a little noise but i think its the derailleur or e13 cassette. Im also 5.8 and doesnt feel cramped. Do you think the balance of your suspension can cause how the bike feels out of saddle?

I've had a chance to weight the bike and it came out to be 27.5 lbs without pedals and 28.25 with pedals. But after I add on the pump, bag, tools, cage, empty bottle, bell, etc... It's closer to 30lbs.

The 28T chainring e13 9-46t combo is what I have. In the 9T, the chain rubs the plastic guard a little, not really that big of a deal and I don't use that cog much at all. Just some info for others who is thinking of a 26T chainring, it might be a problem. The e13 doesn't shift that great but I love the range. Others have reported similar experiences. It's a little better with the XTR clutch off. I don't think I need the clutch since I'm using an absolute chainguard and taco bash.

 

I found my 36s awful for 6 months after coming off lyriks. Things I've found that help:
- open rebound, I now run 12-14 clicks from closed
- open HSC, I basically run none (2) and let the spring do the work
- moderate LSC, I'm running 6 clicks from closed, and basically adjust this as I did on pike/lyrik

Despite the open settings there is still plenty of control, which was a surprise as I generally ran my lyrik very slow

 

Thanks for the helpful suggestions

Fit - I realize some of this is muscle memory. The HD4 is definitely harder to dial in. What I am finding is that I need to run wider bars, it feels more natural when doing this, but also got some pain in my shoulder when doing this. The only other bike that I constantly fiddled with cockpit is the Firebird. The Firebird is a long bike so getting it dialed for in the saddle and out of the saddle seem to be at odds with each other. In general, I feel like I am battling my hand position on the HD4 with bars and overly weighting the front end. I am not giving up on this.

Noise - being that bike is brand new, I would assume the normal culprits are out. It occurs in or out of the saddle. I did find two linkage bolts loose, but that was some time ago and the noise is still there. I wonder if it is the internal routing and how the cables are stacked relative to each other.

Fork - thanks! I will try this on the Fox 36. The Pike and Lyrik with MRP ramp up are amazing. Yes I find the Pike and Lyrik to be slow in the parking lot, but work so well on the trail.

 

It occurs in or out of the saddle.

My number one creak fixer is: remove the pedals, clean the threaded axle portion as well as the threaded hole in the crank, regrease the threaded axle portion making sure the shoulder is greased, reinstall.

 

Dude, what size bars are you running?


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Dude, what size bars are you running?

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In general, I have found ~770mm bars to work best on many of my bikes. I seem to prefer ~780mm on the HD4, it is surprising how 10mm actually slows the front end handling down and the increase in leverage in controlling the bike. I can throw the bike around with greater confidence. It is truly amazing. However, after doing this two weeks ago, I got a pain in my shoulder the the following day it was so bad that I almost went to hospital. The pain eventually went away. I am slowly trying the 780 bars again because at 770 it is too twitchy and feels more like an XC bike. With 780 bars, I can really attack the trail.

 

Dude! Maybe the shockwiz might help with the more complicated rc2 and x2.

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I haven't been overly impressed with the shockwiz but may pull it out for this.

 

Pops are often headset, perhaps it wasn't greased when assembled? You can also get pops/cracks if the teflon washer has been removed from the rear axle.

 

Thanks. I build all of my bikes, as I have learned that I care the most about the build and will take my time to do it right. I also enjoy building my bikes. Therefore, I know the headset is properly greased, etc. I feel like I may need to take the shock off and check the bolts. It is definitely more of a pop than a creak.

 

Just got mine today! My wife saw me on camera carrying the box to the garage and texted "don't hurt the bike with your boner." I'm cutting some 3m clear film for frame protection tomorrow, then finishing putting it together. I haven't bought a brand new bike in 21 years, so this is pretty fun.

 

Lol. Youre wife is funny.
Still dialing the suspension. Rebound seems quick. Seems harder to pop off things. But loving it. Crunch crunch

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Lol. Youre wife is funny.
Still dialing the suspension. Rebound seems quick. Seems harder to pop off things. But loving it. Crunch crunch

What do you mean by harder to pop off things?

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Off little boulders, small launches with a small face or lip. Maybe its just dialing in the suspension and getting use to a longer bike with more travel. Ive slowed down the rebound just now front and back.

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Daleyriding. What pressures are you using front and back for that 2.6 combo? I was thinking 19/20

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I run 18 front 19 rear

 

Seems harder to pop off things....Ive slowed down the rebound just now front and back.

So, right before taking flight you pump to compress your suspension, but instead of the rebound launching you into the air, the suspension rebounds like molasses, and you don't leave the ground? I suggest you speed up the rebound, i.e. decrease rebound damping, i.e. turn the knob counter clockwise. You could do the same for the compression damping as well.

 

Wouldnt turning the hsc/lsc compression counter clockwise make it more mushy?

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Counter clockwise reduces damping. Damping slows things down. Compression damping converts some of the energy that you use to compress your suspension into heat, and therefore that energy is not available for rebound.

If you want a fork that will help you pop off things, then turn all the knobs fully counter clockwise. That will be the maximum popiness.

Wouldnt turning the hsc/lsc compression counter clockwise make it more mushy?

Yes, in the sense that if your suspension was fully damped, it would be a rigid bike. I like to think of counter clockwise as springy, rather than mushy, and clockwise as less springy.

Perform two tests:

1) Turn all knobs fully clockwise, and see how popy your bike feels.
2) Turn all knobs fully counter clockwise and see how popy your bike feels.

 

What rotor sizes are you guys running? Mine came with f180/r160, but I have a brand new 203 and 180 icetech rotors collecting dust. I also have a 160 to 180 bracket, but have to pick up the 180 to 203 bracket for the '18 fox 36 performance shock. I loved the large combo on my 26er, am I'm guessing I will on the hd4 also.


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Im running 160/180 , no brackets. I dont have enough sustained downhills and seems fine. I so use semi metallic pads tho.

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