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Mojo HD4 Picture and Build Thread

66K views 415 replies 80 participants last post by  ABQ Clydesdale  
#1 ·
About time the HD4 gets it's own Pic and Build thread! Mods, can you stick this one?
 
#2 ·
I guess I will start this one off...


HD4 Large
2018 Fox 36 160mm
Chromag BZA 35mm bars 25mm rise
Chromag BZA stem 35mm
Shimano XTR brakes F/R 180mm rotors
Wheels- Chris King hubs laced to DT Swiss 511 rims
Fox Transfer dropper 150mm
Ergon Smr3-L seat
Shimano XTR cranks
One-up components chainring 34T
Chris King BB
Shimano XTR deraiuller
Shimano XTR shifter
Shimano XT cassette
 
#16 ·
Not sure. Maybe Jenson preordered in advanced.
Anyways mine came and the top portion is more like orange. Kinda like the limited edition fox forks. Its pretty loud but not ugly. Just means if i dont perform on my bike I'll look like a poser. Spent over 5 hrs cleaning and putting on self healing xcel frame protection. Would be gone with inivisframe if it was available in the interest of time but i feel i did a better job and has much more coverage than what invisiframe offers at less than half the price if you dont count the time spent.

If you look under your linkage it says "I'm down". Not sure what its intended for?

I'll post more details since today will be spent on the build. The M frame with x2 shock, guard, and seat clamp is 1300g.

Roxy's design is sick. Love the curves.
The paint job is really nice and everything is of high quality. I love the little indent for the x2 climb switch. It may seem like an afterthought at first but its pretty slick only if you have an x2 otherwise its just a dent.

Ive seen the silver in person, i think its just as nice. I just didn't like the green.

Image


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#17 ·
Jackson, the frame looks great. Your second picture link doesn't work.

I've never heard of the frame protector you used. Do you have a link to the exact one you bought? I would like to get that on my bike when it arrives next week. Also any tips for installation?


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#18 ·
The wait is over! Congrats!

Spent over 5 hrs cleaning and putting on self healing xcel frame protection. Would be gone with inivisframe if it was available in the interest of time but i feel i did a better job and has much more coverage than what invisiframe offers at less than half the price if you dont count the time spent.
Yes, what is that stuff? And, I spent probably 15 hours installing my invisiframe.

If you look under your linkage it says "I'm down". Not sure what its intended for?
I find that after I take a bike apart I often wish I had paid more attention to the orientation of the parts when I'm trying to put it back together. In seems that with your link, the orientation is clearly marked.

Its pretty loud but not ugly. Just means if i dont perform on my bike I'll look like a poser.
lol. Recently, my preferred black Hadley hubs were out of stock, but there were red Hadley hubs in stock. Ultimately, I decided that I wasn't a good enough rider to sport red hubs. Maybe some day!

Roxy's design is sick. Love the curves.
Yes! I think they should get rid of the HD4 moniker and call it the RoxyLo 4. Much more panache!
 
#20 ·
Its excel self healing film. Ive spent 40 on it. Here's the item number on ebay. 291738832774
Its 4 inch wide but they sell different widths, you pay by foot. It takes time cutting out the pieces so you'll need to create your own patterns. I used paper then traced it, just remember when you trace its mirror imaged because you can only trace on the non film side. Ive made that mistake twice.
15hrs for invisiframe install is really long. Ive completely covered the chainstay, thats where most of scrapes would be. The top tube was a ***** since its curved and requires a long piece. The good thing is that you can peel off and redo or squeegee out the water. Remember to use lots of spray solution on the frame, film and fingers and take your time. Try to avoid sharp edges otherwise it'll lift over time. Im happy with how it came out. Like it a lot more than invisiframe. I only had 3hrs of sleep. Gonna leave work early. [emoji6]

Btw. For those looking for this info. My ks lev 175mm dropper can be slammed all the way in the medium frame!! Nice.

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#21 · (Edited)
Man, I was hoping that was a pre-cut kit. I can barely apply window tint, let alone cut weird shapes and apply it to the bike.

I bet the linkage that says I'm down is just a humorous way to tell you the orientation of the linkage itself.

EDIT: On the Ibis site, my HD4 NX build has 68/73 BB listed. Which one is it, and is that gxp or bb30 standard?
 
#22 ·
my HD4 NX build has 68/73 BB listed. Which one is it,
If the BB on the frame is 68mm wide, like on the HD4, then you use a certain configuration of spacers included with the BB; if the BB on the frame is 73mm wide, then you use fewer(no?) spacers. The tech docs for the BB will tell you how to configure the spacers depending on whether your frame has a 68mm or 73mm wide BB.

and is that gxp or bb30 standard?
The BB30 standard is for a press fit BB while Ibis frames have threaded BB shells, and according to Bike Radar's Complete guide to bottom brackets, SRAM's GXP bottom brackets/cranks are compatible with a threaded BB:

Crank designs that will fit: Standard 24mm external type (Shimano Hollowtech II, SRAM/Truvativ GXP, Campagnolo Ultra-Torque, FSA MegaExo, Race Face X-Type, etc), square taper, ISIS, BB386 EVO, many others
 
#23 ·
If the BB on the frame is 68mm wide, like on the HD4, then you use a certain configuration of spacers included with the BB; if the BB on the frame is 73mm wide, then you use fewer(no?) spacers. The tech docs for the BB will tell you how to configure the spacers depending on whether your frame has a 68mm or 73mm wide BB.

The BB30 standard is for a press fit BB; Ibis uses threaded BB shells, and according to Bike Radar's Complete guide to bottom brackets, SRAM's GXP bottom brackets/cranks are compatible:
Thanks for putting that info up, I forgot about the spacer arrangement between 68 and 73. However, the second statement from the article confuses me. GXP is 24 mm drive side and 22 mm non- drive side. In the case of a hollowtech crank, it has a straight 24mm shaft. Am I missing something with this?

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#24 ·
The right and left sides of a BB can have the same external diameter but different internal diameters, right? So an SRAM BB and a Shimano BB can have the same external diameters on both sides of the BB, and therefore both can fit in an Ibis frame, but an SRAM BB can employ two different internal diameters, so as to fit an SRAM crank; while a Shimano BB can employ two identical internal diameters so as to fit a Shimano crank. Consequently, you can't use an SRAM BB with a Shimano crank, nor can you use a Shimano BB with an SRAM crank. Do you want to use a Shimano crank?
 
#25 ·
Happy, I was trying to understand the difference between the two, and I get it now; I appreciate you explaining it. I had an HDR build that I recently scrapped due to frame damage, and I had a shop install the gxp BB because I didn't know the difference. I bought the HD4 nx with the intention of upgrading to eagle later. Now that I get it, it will make it easier when I decide to go through with the upgrade.


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#26 ·
Talk in the other thread, this thread is for builds ;)





HD4 Large
Fox 36 160mm
Chromag BZA bars
Chromag BZA stem 50mm
Shimano Saint brakes w 203mm/180mm rotors
Zelvy Carbon rims on White Industries XMR+ hubs
KS Lev dropper 150mm
Chromag Lynx DT saddle
Raceface Turbine cranks
Shimano XTR derailleur
Shimano XTR shifter
SRAM X01 cassette
DMR vault pedals

Weight: 13.8kg with pedals
 
#28 ·
First hd4 ride today. After the build, the first thing i thought was, damn, its a big bike.

Its been about a month since ive been on bike and i took it out on my normal route, about 17 miles and 2300ft. Coming off the mojo3 and here are my initial thoughts. Fortunately the hd4 exhibited none of the concerns i had. It didnt wander on steep climbs and it climbed well. It didnt climb as well as the m3. It felt noticeably heavier and required a little more effort however the traction on the techy climbs were improved, surprisingly, may be attributed to the float x2. The hd4 was more stable and wasnt as agile as the m3 but was good enough. The hd4 wanted to go straight and on some gnar i did just that. It was fun plowing but during the entire time i was thinking, omg, what am i doing, what if i get in over my head. The hd4 performed flawlessly. The downhill doesnt need a review, its satisfyingly crunchy. The climbing was tough i have to say. I dont know if it's the extra weight or the slack angles and im usually a decent climber. Towards the end of the ride i developed cramps in both of my inner quads. I dont know if its because i haven't been on a bike in a while, only having slept 6hrs in 2 days, or im using different muscles due to the slackness of the bike. I do have my seat about 15mm forward. The mojo3 was easier to jump and pop off things. I think the m3 is a bit more fun and probably a good match for the trails i ride. The hd4 allows me to descend faster with more stability and thats a different type of fun. There are no surprises moving from the m3 to hd4. You don't get anything for free, youre just moving attributes around. I'll need at least a month to get use to the new bike. One thing i didnt like is that i can't fit my 28oz bottle in the frame. It can only hold a small bottle, im not sure if its even worth doing. I do like the position of the climb switch, very easy to reach. I didnt notice a difference between that and open though, not sure why. The bike is a little more stiff but not by much nor would it matter to me. It wasnt so stiff that its uncomfortable.

I have xtr brakes, shifter, e13 cassette, rekon 2.8, g4 cranks, 175mm ks lev dropper. The fox36 rc2 and x2 are fabulous components, they are so compliant. My build came out to about 28lbs with pedals and probably 30lbs with all the crap i hang off it (pumps, bag, tool, bottle). My fork has 91psi and shock has 210psi. Im about 185-190 kitted. All the compression settings are default as listed in the manual and seems to be good for now.

The only thing ive changed from the m3 is going from 30 to 28 chainring and went from 170 to 175 cranks. Didnt notice anymore anymore pedal strikes but i was searching for gears a lot. Just need to get use to the new gear ratio. In hindsight, the m3 would've been fine and a better all day bike, more balanced. However, the m3 sometimes feels like it's not enough bike in certain sections. I think in the long run I'll be faster overall once i get use to the new geo. I didnt break any PRs today.
Image


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