It kinda of depends on trails both up and down. I am6' on L with 50mm stem and 20mm stack to raise bars...probably should have gone with XL but have never looked back and happy since day 1 @ > 2years. I am not overbiked for Santa Cruz trails and not underbiked for Sierra's such as Mr Toads Wild Ride. If I was a bike park\ski resort dude, Xl would probably be better.
Are they still selling these things?

 

2017 hd3

Picked up my 2017 on closeout a couple weeks ago. Im 6'1" so the XL with 60mm stem fits like a glove. Having a blast riding this bike. The only issue is the harshness of the Fox 36. Hope it breaks in soon! Great on big hits and really fast stuff, but the medium speed roots/rocks are jolting! Any setup suggestions? The X2 is butter!

 

Is it a fit4 or a hsc/lsc fork?
Im assuming you have tried opening up the compression?

 

It's the HSC/LSC. I'm currently at +4 from wide open HSC and +6 LSC. This was a little better that the starting points from Fox but not great. I'm 215 with gear. Sag is at 20%.

 

Bump up your sag.

 

cwphillips,

What about checking to see if you can remove some tokens from your fork? Does the Fox 36 RC2 come with 0 tokens installed?

 

Im not certain, but I think it came with one installed. Fox's website can be very confusing!!

 

I think you're right Imho4ep. I've read that some people add volume spacers so that they can lower air pressure to increase small bump compliance, but if you do that too much, you can sag right into the progressive part of the spring curve making your fork feel harsh off the top, so paradoxically increasing air pressure will make your fork feel softer. In other words, taking out a volume spacer and increasing air pressure can actually improve small bump compliance. But if cwphillips only has 1 spacer in the fork, I don't think that can be the problem.

Lots of ideas here (including air pressure build up in the fork):

https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=178696&pagenum=1

A mod in post #318 here:

http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/2016-fox-36-harsh-990536-4.html

 

On my fox 36, I was finding it harsh too. I removed the volume spacer, lowered pressure a bit (25% sag) & increase LSC a lot (15-18 clicks from open) and HSC a little (see fox recommendations).

The changes on LSC & HSC were suggested in the suspension forum with the thinking that my harshness was because the fork blue through the early part of the travel and packed into the mid/progressive part leading to a harsh feel. With the high amounts of LSC & HSC, the fork actually felt more compliant.

MRP also makes a Negative Spring Valve that allows you to increase the pressure in the negative spring side a bit over the positive spring which helps make it even more supple.

 

I just joined the Ibis club, with a size large Mojo HD3 frame (Matte color). I moved components from a 2015 Heckler, which include: RS Pike 160, XT drivetrain, Sun Ringle Black Flag Pro SL wheels, and it's running with the stock Fox Float DPS shock. FWIW, I'm 5'11" (maybe a touch over), with a 33" inseam. I'm running a 50mm stem and a setback seatpost and it seems like perfect sizing for me.

First ride yesterday with no issues and nice and quiet. I was a little tentative on our technical northeastern trails without a bash guard (just picked up ISCG adapter today), but the bike was a ton of fun and I'm looking forward to testing it a little more aggressively with the bash guard installed.

Quick question: I've noticed some HD3's with a cable port on the top tube near the stem, and some without it. When was this added or removed, and are there any other changes/updates to the frame in the last couple years besides boost sizing?

Also, are people doing anything to seal their unused cable ports? Or just letting the water enter and drain at the tiny drain holes? The idea of water and mud making its way to the bottom bracket doesn't seem ideal.

 

Quick question: I've noticed some HD3's with a cable port on the top tube near the stem, and some without it. When was this added or removed, and are there any other changes/updates to the frame in the last couple years besides boost sizing?

Also, are people doing anything to seal their unused cable ports? Or just letting the water enter and drain at the tiny drain holes? The idea of water and mud making its way to the bottom bracket doesn't seem ideal.

Congrats and welcome to the club!

I don't remember when exactly they modified the frame with the ports but I thought it was fairly early on, like after the first production run or so... I'm sure someone on here has the right answer for that. But about covering the unused port holes, I just use a piece of black electric tape. It blends in just fine and I've never had a problem with water in the frame. (I am in socal though but I do wash my bike probably more than I should!)

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You can buy blanking plugs. They clean up the look but don't seal. My bike gets very wet. That water just drains out of the hole in front of the bottom bracket. The bearings will be fine as the bb shell doesn't break through into the frame.

I do make sure that the headset is higher than the rest after washing as I dint want moisture draining towards the headset bearings.

Oh, and welcome to the club.

 

Thanks guys, much appreciated! I have to say, this frame is a work of art when you really look at it up close. Almost too nice to ride! Thankfully the riding is also really fun

 

I have to say, this frame is a work of art

Prove it!

Yum, bubble gum:

_DSC4257 by online images, on Flickr

 

Glad this thread is still ALIVE!!

Hello fellow HD3 owners! With the advent of the HD4 and Mojo3, I am glad to see this HD3 thread still getting some love! Had this bike since 2015!

And holy Alzheimer's ghost, I completely forgotten I had posted in this thread with pics of my initial build and almost double posted with the same pics! :eekster:

Anyway, 2 years in and I've since upgraded to the lighter Raceface SixC handlebars and ditched the chirpy Inline for the super plush Fox X2. Pics of rear end overhaul and right after during a riding trip in Sedona this summer.

Cheers!

 

View attachment 1156298 View attachment 1156299 View attachment 1156300

Hello fellow HD3 owners! With the advent of the HD4 and Mojo3, I am glad to see this HD3 thread still getting some love! Had this bike since 2015!

And holy Alzheimer's ghost, I completely forgotten I had posted in this thread with pics of my initial build and almost double posted with the same pics! :eekster:

Anyway, 2 years in and I've since upgraded to the lighter Raceface SixC handlebars and ditched the chirpy Inline for the super plush Fox X2. Pics of rear end overhaul and right after during a riding trip in Sedona this summer.

Cheers!

I have a medium with an X2 coming my way. What size frame do you have. I'm interested in water bottle clearance with this frame.

 

TanMan,

The HD3's are on closeout now, so there's another round of excited HD3 owners. We're also posting pictures and discussing components in the "Initial HD3 review" thread.

 

Money Well Spent

I got this on the JensonUSA closeout deal. I bought a Cane Creek DBCS to replace the rear shock, which I got for an extra $200 with discounts is all, and I still got the Fox Float that it came with. I hear that the CC shock can need repaired from time to time, so I at least won't be out of action when it's needed.

So far I'm very happy with the bike. I went with the XL which fits me nearly perfectly. I have and XL Santa Cruz 5010 which had me in good position on climbs, but a little awkward on downhills. The Mojo is great downhill and climbs as well as the 5010. The CC seems to be a pretty good match with the DW5 rear linkage. I get very little bob with the climb switch open and none in the rear with it closed.

The only weak point on the build seems to be the wheel set. It came with Raceface Affect 30 I think. My buddy has the same wheel set on a Yeti SB6 and already blew out his rear hub after having it for about 4 months. He's 140 lbs and I'm 205, so I think I need a backup plan for when mine goes.

 

P.W.H.,

Nice! I like those stealth Pikes in the Jenson package. I got the same XL/917 frame, but I built it up myself. I built the wheelset using Ibis 738 rims and I9 hubs, and I weigh 250 lbs geared up. Early days to comment on durability. Dropper posts are also a crap shoot, so that is another thing that might fail.

When the time comes, may I suggest Hadley hubs and an aluminum rim of your choice, e.g. Stan's Flow MK3, WTB i35, Ibis 738? You can easily service the Hadley hubs yourself with a few special tools. I don't have the more expensive Hadley tools, instead I had a bike shop grind down a coupe of Park 24mm cone wrenches to make them 25mm cone wrenches, which are used on the front hub. A busy bike shop will have a grinder. Then, I bought a Park 21mm cone wrench, and I already had a Park red spanner, which are needed for the rear hub. For all those tools, it will cost you $34. Add a large bottle of Tri-flow for $11, and for a total of $44 you will be all setup to service your Hadley hubs. High end hubs need to be serviced fairly often, but I enjoy doing it. For instance, when I'm riding 6-7 days a week, I service my hubs every three months, so maybe every 150 hours.

Or, if you want to go full bore the Ibis 742 wheelset with I9 hubs are an option. For a slightly cheaper carbon wheelset, check out Derbie carbon rims with Hadley hubs.

Why did you prefer the CCDB-CS over the Fox X2? Can you back pedal in your low gear without the chain dropping down to a smaller cog?

How does your buddy like his SB6c? Did he get one of the backcountry closeouts last year? I almost bought one of those closeouts, but I held out for an HD3.

 

I know it may be a little dumb, but the deciding factor on the CCDB is that it was in stock, but I really do love it now that I have it. I have had it on smooth flowy stuff and incredibly rough moto trails as well. It feels better the first couple of weeks I have had it than two years of tinkering could get with my 5010.

I don't think I'll be ready to get wheels just yet. On my 5010 I had a Stan's flow wheel set and really liked it. I blew out the hub it came with and replaced it with a DT Swiss 350 and was really happy with how that worked out. I hadn't looked at Hadley hubs.

I do need to think about the servicing that goes into the bike as the closest shop to me is about 70 miles away. Anyway, thanks for the info, it will give me a few more things to think about when the time comes.

 

I know it may be a little dumb, but the deciding factor on the CCDB is that it was in stock, but I really do love it now that I have it.

Not dumb. And the X2 has issues to consider. I'm running the stock DPS now, and I've got an X2 in the closet, but I wonder if the CCDB-CS would be a better option. What air pressure are you using? I'm wondering if I would run up against the limits at my ride weight of 250 lbs.

On my 5010 I had a Stan's flow wheel set and really liked it.

I ran Flows and then Flow EX's on my 26" SC Blur LT2. They were super durable, but I noticed that they went out of true fairly quickly, and nothing I tried could get them true again, so I assume they must have gotten warped from rock strikes and drops. I couldn't notice any difference in the ride, though. I didn't consider Stan's rims again because I don't like the looks of the Stan's Flow MK3 rims, and I assume they will also bend just as easily as the older Flows, so I tried something different.

Can you back pedal in your low gear without the chain dropping down to a smaller cog?

 

I'm running at 185 psi and haven't had to add any volume spacers yet. There are no drops to flat on my home trails though so I haven't had any hard landings. On rough stuff it feels very naturally progressive, if that makes sense. I had to tweak the low speed rebound a bit, but I'm pretty close to the CC recommend settings. Ten clicks vs 13 on LSC and everything else matches recommended settings, except no volume spacers.

My wheels both wobbled a bit, but nothing I really felt on the trail.

So far I haven't had it drop back a cog when back pedaling. I do have an occasional click in my second biggest cog, but can't find anything wrong there. It's annoying since I tend to do a lot of climbing in that gear. Not perfect, but I'm nitpicking at this point.

 

Thanks for the info!

I do have an occasional click in my second biggest cog, but can't find anything wrong there

Have you tried playing with the barrel adjuster on the rear shifter? You could unscrew it a couple of clicks(making the cable tighter) or screw it in a couple of clicks(making the cable looser) to see if you can make the click go away.

Or, maybe the upper pulley wheel is too close to the cog, in which case you can adjust the B-tension screw to back the upper pulley wheel away from the cog. Rear derailleur docs.

Sometimes if the chain leaves a cog at too severe of an angle, you can get a click as the chain slides off the teeth. The way to solve that is by frequently lubing your chain. But if that was the problem, I would think you would get a click in the biggest cog as well.

 

 

I love your before shot. Here's mine:


_DSC4292 by online images, on Flickr

What rims are you running?

 

nice bike

 

I got the hope tech enduro pro4 hubs with hope tech enduro rims. I wish I would have gotten wider rims, these are internal diameter of 23mm so my 2.5 tires are a litte big on them. Your build is sick!

 

Light weight hd3 build

Just finished this build for my wife, she's a lightweight, good technical but not aggressive rider. I have owned many high end bikes such as pivot, Santa Cruz, specialized s works and I'm nothing but impressed with the quality of ibis so much so I'm considering building one for myself. Due to the fact that I wanted this to be a light weight bike for my wife should explain the components selected, if I was building it for myself I would have done a different build. This bike weighed in at 23.87 lbs with pedals, stans sealant In the tires, just the way she's going to ride it. The build is as follows:
Frame - hd3 medium
Fork- fox 36 factory
Wheels- light bike flyweight with i9 hubs
Tires- rocket Ron 2.25
Drivetrain and shifter- sram xx1
Seat post- token carbon
Seat- specialized Ronan carbon
Handle bars- enve Carbon
Stem- wren 50 mm
Brakes- shimano xtr trail
Cranks- next sl
Pedals- shimano xtr

 

Just finished this build for my wife, she's a lightweight, good technical but not aggressive rider. I have owned many high end bikes such as pivot, Santa Cruz, specialized s works and I'm nothing but impressed with the quality of ibis so much so I'm considering building one for myself. Due to the fact that I wanted this to be a light weight bike for my wife should explain the components selected, if I was building it for myself I would have done a different build. This bike weighed in at 23.87 lbs with pedals, stans sealant In the tires, just the way she's going to ride it. The build is as follows:
Frame - hd3 medium
Fork- fox 36 factory
Wheels- light bike flyweight with i9 hubs
Tires- rocket Ron 2.25
Drivetrain and shifter- sram xx1
Seat post- token carbon
Seat- specialized Ronan carbon
Handle bars- enve Carbon
Stem- wren 50 mm
Brakes- shimano xtr trail
Cranks- next sl
Pedals- shimano xtr

At first I was like "oh yh magical scales and all that jazz" but then compared parts fitted to my chubby mojo 3 and yeah sounds bout right.

"The boy (you) done good straight out the hood" on your mrs build.
Tops marks!

 

That weight is ridiculous and unbelievable. I'm just jealous cause I've got a medium 32 lbs hog.

... This bike weighed in at 23.87 lbs with pedals, stans sealant In the tires, just the way she's going to ride it. The build is as follows:
Frame - hd3 medium
Fork- fox 36 factory
Wheels- light bike flyweight with i9 hubs
Tires- rocket Ron 2.25
Drivetrain and shifter- sram xx1
Seat post- token carbon
Seat- specialized Ronan carbon
Handle bars- enve Carbon
Stem- wren 50 mm
Brakes- shimano xtr trail
Cranks- next sl
Pedals- shimano xtr

 

This bike weighed in at 23.87 lbs with pedals,

Wowee! And you could have gone even lighter with an RS Pike or Fox 34. Why the Fox 36 if she isn't an aggressive rider? When I ride my 2018 Fox 36 RC2, plush is not a word that springs to mind.

I just built up my first set of I9 hubs, and I'm already having problems: my rear hub is creaking and it's getting worse every day. Of course, the creak could be coming from somewhere else, but I'm pretty sure I've eliminated every other possibility. I'm awaiting the I9 encap removal tool to crack open the rear hub and see what's up. Hopefully, all the rear hub needs is some lube.

 

Wowee! And you could have gone even lighter with an RS Pike or Fox 34. Why the Fox 36 if she isn't an aggressive rider? When I ride my 2018 Fox 36 RC2, plush is not a word that springs to mind.

the 36 was included with the frame when we bought it so I thought what the heck, I'll give it a try and see what happens. The bike ended up lighter than we hoped so the 36 will stay. She wants to keep it because it's color matched to the frame.....it's a chick thing haha. I have actually got this fork to feel very plush although I only have 45 psi in it to get the correct sag for her weight. This bike is a rocket I set it up for my weight to dial in the shifting etc. And I can not believe how fast it is, it's a blast to ride. I ride a pivot Mach 6 that weighs less than 25 lbs with a dropper post and I like the over all feel of the hd3 better....so guess what I'm building next. Just wondering what rear derailleur are you using I have had sram clutch derailleurs make a nasty sound and be hard to track down, and need lubing to silence them. Just a thought it could be that and not the hub. Have a good one.......

 

Not complete until you put a dropper on it and a decent front tyre. She'll crash less and thank you for them.


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