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Mojo HD3 Picture and Build Thread

416K views 1.7K replies 301 participants last post by  macduff  
#1 ·
New bike means time for a new sticky thread! Here's my build, waiting on delivery of frame in December.

Frame: HD3, Large, Blue
Fork: Pike RCT3 160mm
Wheels: Chris King (red) and Derby Rims built by MikeSee (LaceMine29.com)
Tires: Schwalbe Rock Razor and Magic Mary Super Gravity
Brakes: Hope E4 Black 203F 183R
Cranks: RaceFace Next DM 32T
Rear Derailleur: XX1
Shift Lever: XX1
Cassette: XX1
Headset: Chris King I2 Red
Grips: ESI Racers Edge
Handlebars: RaceFace SixC 35
Stem: RaceFace Atlas 35
Seatpost: KS Lev Integra 150mm
Saddle: Chromag Moon

Everything but the Magic Marys (i'll run HRIIs till they come in), wheels and frame is ready to go.

What does everyone else have in the plans?
 
#1,484 ·
Yepper- sweet for you. BTW - XL is likely the only sensible choice - unless you have strange porpotions. Same height (6' 1.5+'', 187ish) and I'm on an XL w/ 50mm stem - fits great. You can see if dansmac (nice!) pics that a smaller frame would be not so good. I have a 150mm dropper with some room to spare and about to put on a (better) Fox 150 internal. Congrats - it's a fun bike.
 
#1,486 ·
She was pretty!

Ibis HD3 27.5+
Built and completed on June 25th 2016.
Large Ibis HD3 Powder Blue
Eagle XO1wrks
Ibis 742 Wheels
Industry nine hubs
Fox 36 kashima front
Fox X2 rear
KS Lev seatdropper
Red Race Face Atlas handlebars & stem
Color matched TLD blue lockbar grips
XT pedals

Stolen...November 16, 2016 - Denver CO. If seen, holler back!
 
#1,487 ·
Sorry for asking a question that has sort of been covered already, but I'm about to build up a new boost hd3 with sixc cranks. I believe the chain line will be fine moving to a boost back end but will I have the chainstay clearance with a standard oval 32 tooth ring or do I need to swap to boost specific just for clearance issues?
 
#1,488 · (Edited)
Size Medium
Rock Shox Pike RCT3 160mm Boost
Fox DPS EVOL
Stans Flow wheelss
Maxxis Minions
Shimano SLX brakes w/180mm Ice Tech rotors
Easton Haven bar
Easton Havoc 50mm stem
ODI Rogue grips
Cane Creek40 headset.
Shimano XT 11 speed shifter
Shimano XTR 170mm crank
Shimano XT bottom bracket
One Up 32 tooth XTR ring
Shimano XT 11 speed rear derailleur
Hope 10-44 cassette
Sram X1 chain
Time ATAC Alium pedals
Crank Brothers Highline dropper
WTB Silverado Team saddle

Bathroom scale says 29.4lbs before the XT cassette got swapped for a Hope cassette. New weight should be 29.1lbs.

Seems a little heavy to me. I could lose a little weight in the pedals, but overall it seems like it should be in the 28.5lbs range.
 

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#1,490 ·
Mine comes in just under 12.8kg on paper, but is 13.5kg on scales. Heavier than I thought too.. Been trying to work out the extra 700 grams difference from on paper to real world..
Here is my build/weight sheet -
View attachment 1127821
Interesting... Mine easily weighs .5 to.75 pounds more than it does when I added everything up.

Didn't realize Stans adds 140g ... plus the 20g for the seatpost clamp, 22g for the Garmin mount and 50g for rotor and chainring bolts... I could see missing .5 lbs.
 
#1,492 ·
HD3 owners. Howdy. New one arriving soon. Seasoned rider in the Southwest. Mostly AZ for the last 20 years on all sorts of Pivots. So its the size question. I had to pull the trigger quick and after counsel from Ibis and Jenson, ended up on a large. I am 5'9" with a short 29" inseam and long torso. I also ordered a 35 MM stem and imagine I will end up with an 800 bar to regain a little control over the front with the short stem. So, 5'9ers. Where did you end up on frame and cockpit set up. How about bar rise? Thanks. Pictures of Kermit II coming soon.
 
#1,506 ·
you're good



I'm 5'9.5" and 31" inseam, long torso, broad shoulders. I demo'ed the HD3 when I lived in AZ multiple times (Trail 100, MRP, and Papago) testing both the Medium and Large frames. I found both of them to be totally fun to ride, but the medium was definitely more skittish and less stable at speed - almost like a BMX bike. For AZ, I think you'll be happy with the large -- it's still plenty maneuverable. I moved back to the Northeast and just ordered a large frame (thought hard about a Medium given the tight trees here, but I'd rather have the stability on the descents). I plan to use a 40mm stem, probably 760/780 bars (again, we have really narrow tree lines here) and short rise bars (that will also depend on your headset stack).

I've got some I9 hubs and Stans Flow Mk3 rims being built in red/black, and planning to run the GX Eagle group and Guide brakes (potentially Race Face Turbine cranks). Frame should arrive Fri, the rest will take a little longer. Pics to come.

Ted
 
#1,495 ·
Hey riders!

I'm ready for a new set of tires in my 2015 HD3 (12x142 non boost- Derby AM rims).

I'm pretty much set in a Minion DHF 2.5WT 3C front and a DHR II 2.4WT DC rear.

Just double checking how is the DHR II clearance in the rear triangle. Any advice from anyone using this rear tire in a non boost HD3?

Thanks!

Pic thread:
 
#1,496 ·
Hey riders!

I'm ready for a new set of tires in my 2015 HD3 (12x142 non boost- Derby AM rims).

I'm pretty much set in a Minion DHF 2.5WT 3C front and a DHR II 2.4WT DC rear.

Just double checking how is the DHR II clearance in the rear triangle. Any advice from anyone using this rear tire in a non boost HD3?

Thanks!
I had the DHR2 2.4 on the back of mine on a set of Derby rims. No issue with clearance
 
#1,500 · (Edited)
An index of things that were interesting to me:

Fork Knob clearance:
Ibis sent an updated crown race to resolve the clearance issue.(post #991)

Rims:
Yes, I have run the Hadley hubs in the past but can' t live without the I-9 3 degree instant engagement. I too considered the Derby Rims but with the weight penalty and double the cost, I decided to give the Nexties a go. I have had good success and zero issues with 6-8 pairs of cheap carbon rims over the past 4-5 years. The nice thing is the Nextie and Derby have the same ERD so are interchangeable in terms if spoke length (the big expense w/ I-9) Ride on!

Cable Routing:
Mojo HD3 Routing | Digital Hippie | Stoked on MTB since 1988

Rear derailleur - I went internal using three pieces of housing leaving it open in frame. Super easy this way and cable doesn't move as those metal holders nestle cable tightly and cable stays really secure. I was surprised how well it turned out as I wanted to go Un - interrupted. This worked much better actually.
DROPPER- I used front derailleur hole on top tube.

REAR BRAKE- Had to drill small covers with three drills. That was not really the hard part. The hard part was fishing the brake line UP the frame. You cant fish it down because of crimping banjo at end of brake line at caliper. All these lines are easy to insert going from top to bottom. It was very difficult going bottom to top as the hole is small and round at the top! (post #611)

Bottom Bracket:
Race Face(creaking)
Hope
(post #1307)

Cranks:
Cinch system: BSA30.
(post #480)

Chainring:
28T (#1006)

Cassette:
OneUp (#1277)

Chain guide:
E13 XCX Plus guide, Race Face BB.
The MRP AMG touch the lower pivot... (post #510, build thread @ mtbr)

I'm running the alloy AMG and got mine to fit using the supplied 2mm spacers. I'm also running the RF bb with adaptor and 1 spacer on drive side and 1 spacer on non drive side. I have just over 1mm of clearance between the guide and the pivot link bolt. Been running this for about 3wks with no issues. Only the slightest bit of chain rub on the guide when I'm climbing in the 42t. (post #512)

MRP AMG ISCG5 (post #525)

I'm using the MRP AMg guide and taco bash and it works great. Totally silent for me.

I probably don't need the chainguide but nice to have the extra protection just in case. Very happy I have the taco bash though. Definitely has saved the chainring a few times on log strikes.(post #886) I'm using a GXP/X01 crank with the aluminum AMg.

I'm running the carbon AMG guide on my HD3 too and it's tight but it fits. I'm using the smallest spacers they included and it's got clearance from the pivot link bolt head, but tight. Running RF Next SL cranks & BB.

You may have your guide too low. I tried setting mine real close to the chain and it was rubbing in the climbing gear. Moved it up a touch and it was fine. (post #896)

Wolftooth Gnarwolf did NOT fit.(#1372)

OneUp has a cheaper bash/guide (http://forums.mtbr.com/yeti/yeti-sb-5-5c-discussion-1009048-21.html)

Helicopter Tape:
Oh yeah, I also put a nice layer of Helicopter tape down the entire back of the seat-tube. That tight space between the upper link and the frame had me concerned. I could see small pebbles getting in there and grinding the crap out of the frame. (post #521)

that yoke is awfully close to the seat tube... would hate to have a rock get wedged in there as well... prob not likely (famous last words)

cosmetic damage by the upper link.(post #772)

Rotors:
Clearance (post #494)
Hope single piece (shif: http://forums.mtbr.com/ibis/hope-e4-brakes-hd3-any-feedback-what-mounts-adapters-1023580.html)
Hope floating don't work (http://forums.mtbr.com/ibis/rotor-clearance-mojo-hd3-955721.html)

Water Bottle Cage:
(post #987)
 
#1,502 ·
xtr rear derailleur, gs or sgs?

Just, almost..., finished my hd3.



HD3 med, blue
Float X2
Pike RCT3 160 2018
Works -1 headset
Renthal 50mm stem
Ibis Lo-Fi 760 bars Lizardskin Moab grips
Xtr trail brakes with ice tech rotors 160/180mm
Race face turbine cinch cranks 32t
Sun race 11-46 cassette
xtr m9000 gs and shifter I spec II
xt trail pedalsderailleur
Ibis 735 wheels, red decals in the works.
Onza Ibex 2.4 skinwall
Spesh Command Post (might swap for Bikeyoke Revive)
Some things left, like shortening the dropper cable etc.

The thing is, and here's where I hope to get help... Are you guys using GS or SGS cages on your Shimano derailleurs in 1x11?

Everywhere I look I seem to see the hd3 speced with gs cage, so I got one. On paper I have one link to spare with my 11-46 cassette but in reality with the chaingrowth on the hd3 I can't help feeling the chain is to long. My derailleur is all but doubleling back on itself in highest gear, but at the same time there's no way I can shorten the chain without ripping the derailleur off the frame if I do a full compression in the lowest gear (and that is bound to happen if I remove a link....)I'd say I'm right on the limit for whats still working as intented so I guess it's good in that way but a sgs might be the better cage length, or?
 

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#1,504 · (Edited)
Here is my new build, to accompany my V1 Ripley:





Specs for the above:
HD3 Frame (Large)
Fox X2 shock
Chris King headset
RS Pike 160/130mm dual position
KS Lev integra 150mm dropper
WTB Volt team saddle
Easton Heist 30 front / 27 rear wheels set up tubeless
Minion 2.5 DHF front, Minion 2.3 DHR rear tyres
Easton Havoc carbon bars 750mm
ODI Rogue lock on grips
Shimano Saint M810 brakes
XTR M9000 11SP shifter and Derailleur
XT M8000 crankset with 30T NW ring
XT 11-46 11sp cassette
XT Chain
XT pedals
 
#1,507 ·
Well i now have my HD3 in Large. Will post some pics soon as I finalize the build. Wheels, bars and seatpost still coming. I purchased the bike to ride in AZ. Its a bit too much bike for Dallas where most are wearing lycra and riding 29er HTs. Def. happy i got the large. Even with the 50 stem its not too long. Bike is very quick turing for a 6" bike. Feels more like a LT xc bike than a LT trail bike. It requires an active and involved rider. Ride it hard and it responds. Dont think of the HD3 as a straight-line sled to plow through things. Though it may do that, it is at its best under a rider that likes to choose lines and position the bike. still working the cockpit out. I typically run my bars about 35-40 mm above the middle of the seat ( measured at the end of the bar.) currently a bit low. How do you run your hd bar to seat height and what sort of terrain do you ride? So far really diggin it. BTW, running 2.6 Nobby Nics Fr and Rr. 5'9" and long torso. 185 in gear.
 
#1,511 ·
Anyone have a picture of the inside of rear triangle where the rubber chain stay protector goes? Trying to suss out mine.

Also i've noticed since a bit of a rebuild my clevis is pretty much touching the seat tube, I know they are close, but i'm sure there used to be at least 1mm there.

Anyone had this issue?
Joel, you've probably figured this out by now, but it sounds like you installed the clevis upside-down. It is directional, even though there is no obvious difference between up or down except for the slant of the inside portion. I put mine on upside down once after a rebuild and noticed it was touching so pulled it back off and corrected.
 
#1,510 ·
L or XL

I'm 6'0" / 185lbs. I'm thinking of getting an L but wondering if I should go with XL instead. I ride a Kona Process 134 L now and that seems to fit me just right. Any opinions?

BTW, Jenson is having a great blow out deal for the HD3+Pike+GX Eagle right now... $3859, but if you call one of their specialists, I bet you can get it for less. A friend of mine got his for $3550.
 
#1,512 ·
I'm 6'0" / 185lbs. I'm thinking of getting an L but wondering if I should go with XL instead. I ride a Kona Process 134 L now and that seems to fit me just right. Any opinions?

BTW, Jenson is having a great blow out deal for the HD3+Pike+GX Eagle right now... $3859, but if you call one of their specialists, I bet you can get it for less. A friend of mine got his for $3550.
I'm the same size as you (6'). used to have large with 60mm stem. Swapped to XL with 50mm stem. Definitely 100% prefer XL.