An index of things that were interesting to me:
Fork Knob clearance:
Ibis sent an updated crown race to resolve the clearance issue.(post #991)
Rims:
Yes, I have run the Hadley hubs in the past but can' t live without the I-9 3 degree instant engagement. I too considered the Derby Rims but with the weight penalty and double the cost, I decided to give the Nexties a go. I have had good success and zero issues with 6-8 pairs of cheap carbon rims over the past 4-5 years. The nice thing is the Nextie and Derby have the same ERD so are interchangeable in terms if spoke length (the big expense w/ I-9) Ride on!
Cable Routing:
Mojo HD3 Routing | Digital Hippie | Stoked on MTB since 1988
Rear derailleur - I went internal using three pieces of housing leaving it open in frame. Super easy this way and cable doesn't move as those metal holders nestle cable tightly and cable stays really secure. I was surprised how well it turned out as I wanted to go Un - interrupted. This worked much better actually.
DROPPER- I used front derailleur hole on top tube.
REAR BRAKE- Had to drill small covers with three drills. That was not really the hard part. The hard part was fishing the brake line UP the frame. You cant fish it down because of crimping banjo at end of brake line at caliper. All these lines are easy to insert going from top to bottom. It was very difficult going bottom to top as the hole is small and round at the top! (post #611)
Bottom Bracket:
Race Face(creaking)
Hope
(post #1307)
Cranks:
Cinch system: BSA30.
(post #480)
Chainring:
28T (#1006)
Cassette:
OneUp (#1277)
Chain guide:
E13 XCX Plus guide, Race Face BB.
The MRP AMG touch the lower pivot... (post #510, build thread @ mtbr)
I'm running the alloy AMG and got mine to fit using the supplied 2mm spacers. I'm also running the RF bb with adaptor and 1 spacer on drive side and 1 spacer on non drive side. I have just over 1mm of clearance between the guide and the pivot link bolt. Been running this for about 3wks with no issues. Only the slightest bit of chain rub on the guide when I'm climbing in the 42t. (post #512)
MRP AMG ISCG5 (post #525)
I'm using the MRP AMg guide and taco bash and it works great. Totally silent for me.
I probably don't need the chainguide but nice to have the extra protection just in case. Very happy I have the taco bash though. Definitely has saved the chainring a few times on log strikes.(post #886) I'm using a GXP/X01 crank with the aluminum AMg.
I'm running the carbon AMG guide on my HD3 too and it's tight but it fits. I'm using the smallest spacers they included and it's got clearance from the pivot link bolt head, but tight. Running RF Next SL cranks & BB.
You may have your guide too low. I tried setting mine real close to the chain and it was rubbing in the climbing gear. Moved it up a touch and it was fine. (post #896)
Wolftooth Gnarwolf did NOT fit.(#1372)
OneUp has a cheaper bash/guide (
http://forums.mtbr.com/yeti/yeti-sb-5-5c-discussion-1009048-21.html)
Helicopter Tape:
Oh yeah, I also put a nice layer of Helicopter tape down the entire back of the seat-tube. That tight space between the upper link and the frame had me concerned. I could see small pebbles getting in there and grinding the crap out of the frame. (post #521)
that yoke is awfully close to the seat tube... would hate to have a rock get wedged in there as well... prob not likely (famous last words)
cosmetic damage by the upper link.(post #772)
Rotors:
Clearance (post #494)
Hope single piece (shif:
http://forums.mtbr.com/ibis/hope-e4-brakes-hd3-any-feedback-what-mounts-adapters-1023580.html)
Hope floating don't work (
http://forums.mtbr.com/ibis/rotor-clearance-mojo-hd3-955721.html)
Water Bottle Cage:
(post #987)