The girlfriend picked up a Special Blend build on St. Patty's Day. Such a great value with the 1x11 XT drivetrain. It shipped with Arch EX rims too, rather than the Rapids listed on ibis website.

Another thing is that the X-fusion fork stanchions measure 160mm, but the head angle seemed a tiny bit steeper than my SB5. It should be 66.6 on the HD3 and 66.8 on the SB5. But I guess I'd have to use an angle finder to be sure.

 

Only got this built up this last week, but with 3 rides I can say that it has exceeded my expectations and then some. Best bike I have owned, hands down.

Most of the parts are pretty obvious except perhaps the Onyx hubs. If you have never heard of these, they have instant engagement and are totally silent when coasting. It's pretty cool to ride around and only hear your tires on the dirt!

I'm enjoying my experiment with the plus tires so far, but may swap over to something skinnier just to compare.

IMG_1212 by Dustin Sharp, on Flickr

 

Just finished with the build ! Can't wait to ride it tomorrow for the first time
One Thing makes me a bit uncomfortable, the rear end spacing is only 144mm and it's not so easy to get the rear wheel in. It's supposed to be the boost version... But rear disc and brake are fitting.

 

What tire are you trying to fit in? Hard to tell where you are measuring things?

 

It's the latest....Boost Minus Spacing

Sorry, I know that's not helpful....but send Ibis an email and they'll jump all over it.. best CS in the biz:thumbsup:

 

I already got the confirmation that it is a non-Boots Frame. They Accidentaly shipped the wrong one. But the boost wheel did fit Just have to spread the rear end a bit.
But really annoying ! I live in Thailand and it was a lot of trouble to get the frame to me.
Now I have to organize a non-boost rear wheel.

 

Or ask them to send you the updated rear triangle with boost spacing....

 

I've been troubleshooting a RF Cinch creaking problem on my HD3 which has about 15 hours of single track on it. Went to go disassemble the RF Cinch BSA 30 bottom bracket and regrease then I noticed that there is not a shell or tube between the external cups? I had the cranks built up when I bought the frame. The external cups directly thread in, the spacers seem correct. etc. Is it normal to eliminate the tube or shell when installing this type of bottom bracket on an HD3? Thanks.

 

I've been troubleshooting a RF Cinch creaking problem on my HD3 which has about 15 hours of single track on it. Went to go disassemble the RF Cinch BSA 30 bottom bracket and regrease then I noticed that there is not a shell or tube between the external cups? I had the cranks built up when I bought the frame. The external cups directly thread in, the spacer seem correct. etc. Is it normal to eliminate the tube or shell when installing this type of bottom bracket on an HD3? Thanks.

I could be wrong, but if memory serves me, I do believe there's a pathway for unwanted bike wash water to find its way to the BB area internally, so I'd say installing the tube is recommended. I definitely have it on mine.

Be forewarned though, the cinch BB does seem to be a bit weak when it comes to fast wear and creaking (although 15 hours seems WAY too soon). I battled a creak early on, pretty much eliminating all the other culprits that were being tossed around before finally just changing out the BB in desperation and voila, creak gone.

 

It's also worth checking the cinch interface itself where the direct mount ring is attached - mine worked loose quickly and creaked. Lots of torque and some threadlock recommended.

 

Reinstalled BB and crank assembly. There was a crack in the plastic preload ring that goes on the non-drive side crank that I previously knew about and replaced during the cleaning and greasing. Yes it is much quieter. I am running the XT RD M8000 and the rear adjustable clutch is also noisy, haven't found the right setting on this. On the clutch it seems when I make it taught on the chain there is a clicking/rubbing sound as you over come the clutch.

 

Opened up rear derailleur clutch cover and added grease to the external diameter of the clutch and after making sure the cam roller assembly was seated properly in it's plastic supports the clicking/rubbing sound is now much quieter.

 

Louie Bloo

Just got this guy built up last night. Running the new Ibis 738 wide aluminum wheelset. Rims look fantastic and hubs are creepy quiet - love it! Out for the virgin run this am, REALLY loving this bike. Still have some dialing in of the suspension after initial setup, but the stability at speed was noticeable coming off an SJ EVO. Also running the new Minion WT (DHF 2.5 and DHR2 2.4) which were super grippy in the corners. They were also grippy on the climbs (good for loose techy, maybe not so good for extended singletrack climbing) but I'll take a small hit on climbing speed if the payoff is grip and confidence in the corners.

917 blue is just as sexy hot in person as it is on the Ibis website. For those of you growing up in the 70's and 80's, the blue color reminds me of the raspberry blue otter pop...thus I've named this new steed Louie Bloo in honor of the delicious frozen treat.

 

Hd3 is like a 911 gt3 rs freaking thing rails.

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Hd3

Greetings from Arizona! Long time lurker, first post to this thread...

Can't imagine less than a year after I got this kickass bike, its already eclipsed by the Boost models and Mojo 3 this year. Can't keep up with the jones man! Still keeps me grinning ear everytime I ride it though! Anyway, here is my bike during a wash last fall. Built details not the same as pictured as I just went through a weight weanie phase and replaced couple heavy-ass components.

Built weight is 27.8 Lbs. For those of you who can get it down to 26 and under, I hate you- I can't afford the weight weenie game any longer!!

Frame: HD3 large Satin Black (Mid 2015?)
Fork: RS Pike at 150mm
Shock: CC DBInline
Wheels: Roval Traverse 650 SL
BB: SRAM--???
Cranks: XO1 Carbon
Cassette: X1
Chain: PCX1
Rear Mech: XT M8000
Shifter: XTR M9000
Brakes: XTR M9020 Trail
Rotors: Shimano 180mm front, 160mm rear
Tyres: Magic Mary front, Continental Mountain King Rear
Dropper: RS Reverb
Saddle: WTB Volt
Pedals: DMR Vault
Headset: Chris King
Handlebars: Raceface SIXC 785mm
Stem: Syntace Megaforce2
Grips: ESI Chunky

 

More proper pics

Now that I learned how to post pics to the forum (God help us!), here are couple more pics of Darth Goat in its natural habitat as well as weight after swapping out the heavy @55 truvative hasselfelt and Azonic bars.

Next items to replace in an attempt to get to 26Lbs would be the bottom bracket (go ceramic??), pedals- I could go magnesium but I don't think they will do well in our rocky terrain here, and a lighter saddle.

Alternatively, I tell myself I am equally happy at slightly under 28 lbs and save the moolah for some epic bike trips instead!

 

Keep buying fractionally lighter bike bits - memories of adventures fade, but carbon lasts forever, doesn't it?

 

Keep buying fractionally lighter bike bits - memories of adventures fade, but carbon lasts forever, doesn't it?

View attachment 1073443
View attachment 1073444
View attachment 1073445

That's what I keep trying to tell the wife but she wouldn't buy it!!

Those are some sick pics, much greener than what we have out here too!:thumbsup:

 

Does anyone know if you can fit a 170mm Reverb Stealth in a Large HD3?

 

Just finished up this build last week... so far, so awesome. I don't know if it's the carbon wheels, the rear EVOL shock, or just everything in combination but this is the smoothest bike I've ever ridden.

Frame: Large HD3 w/ Boost
Fork: Pike 160mm RCT3
Shock: Fox EVOL
Wheels: Ibis 741 Carbon
Drivetrain and Brakes: XT
Dropper: KS Lev Integra
Tires: DHF 2.5" front, 2.3" rear

 

Really love the new boost 148 version of the HD3. Currently running Easton Arc 30's w/Hope 4's and Hans Dampf 2.35 wide tires. Fork setup for 160 mm travel. Has anyone on the board tried NN 2.8 or 3.0 or any plus tires on HD3 148 version bike? Will we wind up needing to a retrofit of any of the linkages or suspension components due to tire rubbing as the Mojo 3 owners are discussing?

 

The kit comes with a new lower link and the swingarm. I have not had any rubbing issues, nor have I have seen the Mojo 3 rubbing problems (as there a thread on that?). Not sure if the Boosinator fits the Hope 4 hubs, you'd need that to convert to a 148mm standard.

Anyway, I did a short review of the kit and tires: Just In ? Ibis Mojo HD3 Boost/Plus Swingarm Kit and Schwalbe Nobby Nic 27.5+ Tires

 

pastajet thanks for the reply. When I ordered my frame I got the 148 version and built my wheels up with the new Hope 4s in the Boost size. All that is good. 1-2 times per week I ride in a state forest with pointed, granite rock all over the place which wears out side casings on tires. I held off on the plus tires initially waiting for some tires come out with a decent side casing (exo, etc.) that are still light weight in the plus sizing. I ride a fat bike all winter in New England and don't need that weight in the summer. Tire suggestions appreciated anyone?

2nd question- I have the interrupted cable setup going to the rear derailleur. Portion of cable housing running from thumb shifter to top tube cable port rattles where it enters the cable port. If I pull housing clean it, grease the end, insert it will go a ride then start rattling again. Noticed yesterday the housing is wearing thin where it sits in the cable port. If I am staying interrupted any suggestions to prevent the rattle at the port entry?

Thanks

 

Full+ mode with new Lyrik

 

Full+ mode with new Lyrik
View attachment 1078280

Dang thats a sexy build!!

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Non boost frame. Still trying to get her dialed in.
Soquel Demo Forest Ride

 

Nice setup. What's in the bottle cage? Shorty go alright in the dry? I'm about to buy one for our mud season...

 

Sorry for the late reply, I was outta range.

The bottle cage carries my tool kit, keeps the weight off of my back and low on the frame. The shorty is a great tire. Amazing in the mud and loam. Not super great in the loose dry over hard pack, but you could do worse. It's also a bit heavy. Mine is the DH version, I think they now offer a WT version which might be worth a look. I'm swapping it out for a minion WT in a week or two.

 

Its been a while since I posted in the build thread. But since I have made several changes (with 1 more coming) I figured I would add a new shot of the HD3:

Most recent changes:
- Swapped CCDBA for Fox X2
- Swapped PIke for Fox 36
- Switched out 3.35 Hans Damph to 3.5 DHF WT
- Switched out 2.25 Ibex Onza for 2.4 DHR WT
- Next will be Reverb to Fox Transfer

 

Its been a while since I posted in the build thread. But since I have made several changes (with 1 more coming) I figured I would add a new shot of the HD3:

Most recent changes:
- Swapped CCDBA for Fox X2
- Swapped PIke for Fox 36
- Switched out 3.35 Hans Damph to 3.5 DHF WT
- Switched out 2.25 Ibex Onza for 2.4 DHR WT
- Next will be Reverb to Fox Transfer

View attachment 1079810

How are you finding the CCDBA to X2 swap?

Also, guessing you mean 2.35 to 2.5? I've just ordered a 2.5 WT, how does it measure up compared to the HD?

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Who's running a 180 brake rotor in the rear of their HD3? I'm using the SRAM Guide RSC brakes. Which post to post adaptor needs to be ordered for proper fit? It's not very clear trying to find this info.!! Is it just one 20mm adaptor or two 20mm spacers?? Part number or pics would be appreciated. Thank you

 

It's pretty easy. Have a look. https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign...es/default/files/techdocs/95-5018-000-000_rev_d_disc_brake_caliper_mounting.pdf

 

OK. 20S or 20P. Still not very clear when you try to search/order from a website online...Use the bracket or spacers? Do the front and rear mounting holes both get offset by 20mm for Guide brakes?