JensonUSA Is Stocking HD3 Port Covers

Looks like JensonUSA is stocking 5 different versions of the HD3 cable port covers. Some are in stock, others will arrive later in Feb.

Ibis Mojo HD3 Cable Port > Components > Frames > Frame Parts | Jenson USA

 

Looks like JensonUSA is stocking 5 different versions of the HD3 cable port covers. Some are in stock, others will arrive later in Feb.

Ibis Mojo HD3 Cable Port > Components > Frames > Frame Parts | Jenson USA

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Calling these polycarbonate. The ports on my bike from the factory are metallic. Also, what's the one on the right for....kinda funky shape to it. All my single port covers look like the two on the left.

 

Budgie,

Thanks for the time and effort!

 

Budgie,

Thanks for the time and effort!

Yessss !! Thanks a lot ! No problem with the files.

I've ordered some on Sculpteo ! 1 x fat blank, 1 x fat 4.4 and 2 x skinny blank

I should received them the 17th of february. I'll let how the fit the frame if I'm the first who printed them with professionnal printers

 

Anybody know the weight of the HD3 in the stock XO1 Worx kit?

What would e the benefit of upgrading to the carbon Next SL pedals? I'm trying to decide if the upgrade is worth the $ Thanks!

 

I think you meant Next SL CRANKS. Next cranks are very light and some think they're quite handsome. My guess would be the weight advantage being the Next SL biggest features for the $$$ required to buy them.

 

Supposed to take her out on her maiden voyage but wouldn't you know it a burr in the port ruptured my reverb line. My trip to the trail head turned into a trip to the LBS for a new hydrolic line.

 

Supposed to take her out on her maiden voyage but wouldn't you know it a burr in the port ruptured my reverb line. My trip to the trail head turned into a trip to the LBS for a new hydrolic line.

Very nice. I like the simplicity of the black throughout without a lot of noisy colored bits...my kind of build.

Tell me more about the ruptured reverb line, not sure I understand the cause correctly, but I definitely want to avoid the same result.

 

 

Really like the yellow/gold... how'd you do that?

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My fame finally showed up! Can't wait to ride it.

 

My fame finally showed up! Can't wait to ride it.

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More black stealth goodness...nice.

 

Anyone build/ride an XL yet?

 

Still waiting for mine....should be a few more weeks, unless the dock strike gets in the way of things.

 

Dropper post question?? I'm 5'8" with 32 inseam. I'm ordering a medium green HD3. If you read through these threads some guys are ordering/running 125 and some 150...? Will the KS LEV 150mm dropper fit on a medium frame? Why the mix/match of different dropper sizes for medium frames? Will either size work? Pro's/Cons please. Looking to confirm order. Thank You

 

They will both fit.
I prefer a longer 150mm post over the 125mm. It will provide more space on those very steep DH.
Go with the 150.

 

I got to take a spin in the parking lot (with lots of obstacles to ride over) on a large with the new XTR 1X build today. Really nice feel and it shifted great. I can't wait until I can get the special blend version.

 

Back to the dropper post topic - I wanted a 150mm KS but my lbs says the distributor here doesn't wanna bring those in due to mechanical issues with the longer post. So we in Singapore only have the 125mm as the longest option that we can buy locally.

So my first question is - are there widespread problems with 150mm KS dropper posts?

My second question is - are there problems with the 150mm Rockshox reverb? I'm probably gonna get that from CRC but there have been numerous posts about issues with the hydraulics and difficulty servicing. Can someone please put my mind at ease and tell me that this is an issue primarily with the older reverb models?

 

well i assume that you will find enough answers in the appropriate threads for each particular dropper post.
there are plenty of information about those two on mtbr.com and each of them has its pro and cons.

 

After 2 months waiting the day has arrived.

Back wheel issue so using prior rear.wheel until I get it sorted.
I have built many bikes and this has to be the hardest one to date.
Internal routing of rear brake line was very difficult.

 

Looks clean - how did you route the Rear derailleur if i may ask?

 

Rear derailleur - I went internal using three pieces of housing leaving it open in frame. Super easy this way and cable doesn't move as those metal holders nestle cable tightly and cable stays really secure. I was surprised how well it turned out as I wanted to go Un - interrupted. This worked much better actually.
DROPPER- I used front derailleur hole on top tube.

REAR BRAKE- Had to drill small covers with three drills. That was not really the hard part. The hard part was fishing the brake line UP the frame. You cant fish it down because of crimping banjo at end of brake line at caliper. All these lines are easy to insert going from top to bottom. It was very difficult going bottom to top as the hole is small and round at the top!

 

how the hell did you get the DVO??

 

Looking forward to tomorrow!



Look closely but don't tell anyone.

 

Rear derailleur - I went internal using three pieces of housing leaving it open in frame. Super easy this way and cable doesn't move as those metal holders nestle cable tightly and cable stays really secure. I was surprised how well it turned out as I wanted to go Un - interrupted. This worked much better actually.
DROPPER- I used front derailleur hole on top

I guess I expected to see the rear shifter cable looped to the left side of the frame where the rear brake lien is currently routed... where does it enter the frame?

 

Just get the Park Tool IR1. Trust me

 

This x1000...the IR-1 may be a bit pricey but makes quick work of cable routing. It would have made that brake line project a 5 min job.

 

I spy a DVO Diamond fork AND a nearly murdered out DVO piggy back rear shock. Looks tasty.

 

Seriously! DVO Emerald and Topaz. I love it with the green frame.

 

EDIT: uups.... wrong thread....

 

its a Diamond... the Emerald is the DH fork.
hope it's avilable bevor the hollydays in may... don't want to buy a pike/36er

 

Q for you drill baby drillers... Any issues on warranty from Ibis?

 

Internally routed both the brake line and reverb.

Drilling out the single port cover for the brake line was OK but the port cover with both lines got too thin and fragile after drilling.

So I built one out of carbon fibre instead...

 

Internally routed both the brake line and reverb.

Drilling out the single port cover for the brake line was OK but the port cover with both lines got too thin and fragile after drilling.

So I built one out of carbon fibre instead... View attachment 964658

Very cool! do you have any pics/info of the process?

 

Very cool...please share the carbon port process.

 

No, sorry, wish I'd taken some photos on the way through!

I had the benefit of already having plenty of spare CF off-cuts and resin so essentially it cost me zip. If I had to buy the minimum run of materials to do this I wouldn't have done it, there would be heaps left over. I really like the end result, it was a good solution for a problem...but luckily I don't have to repeat the process for other ports.

 

Just received the 3D printed ports. They doesn't exactly fit the frame. A little too long and too thick. I'll have to sand down them a little bit.

 

OK, SO you are running your rear brake on the left...

 

Yep

When I looked at the external brake line routing options, it looked a pain to get the rear brake lever on the left, which is what I'm used to. Internal looked like the better option.

Looks the opposite in terms of ease with rear brake lever on the right. Easier to run external I would have thought. Trying to run internal, it would be tricky figuring out how to mod that top port on the non drive side and still get nice shifting from the gear cable, unless you ran full length gear housing through the frame.