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Mojo 3 Picture and Build Thread

172K views 844 replies 164 participants last post by  paleh0rse  
#1 ·
A jet like the Mojo 3 deserves it's own Picture and Build thread, WHOOT WHOOT!

My build is pretty much an XO1 Werx. I've been running it as a 27.5+ and have posted a review of it for ya!

Ibis Mojo 3 Review | Digital Hippie





 
#297 ·
Image


9mm from sidewall to stay

Image


8mm from outer knob to stay
About 7.5mm from knob to bridge

Ive never stretched out my tire on purpose by letting it sit overnight at high psi. It sat for about 30psi for 15min.

Wheel width knob to knob is 2.66"

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#307 ·
Mojo 3 w/ Pike dual air conquers Downieville

Is anyone else running a Pike RCT3 Dual Air 160/130 Boost QR15 fork on their Mojo 3?

I love this setup!

The 160 position is pretty great all-around, but 130 really helps on the climbs. It feels balanced in long-travel mode and I didn't have a single "oh sh*t" moment while barreling at mach chicken speed down Pauly Creek, Mills Peak and Third Divide, among other trails, this past Labor Day weekend.

In addition to my M3/160, our group consisted of two Evil The Followings (140, 29 x 2.5"), one Santa Cruz Bronson (140, 27.5 x 2.35"), a new Pivot Switchblade (150, 27.5 x 2.8") and a Cannondale Scalpel (120, 26 x 2.35"). This was my first time on this bike in Downieville. Everyone was riding fast, but no other bike could keep pace with the M3/160 without feeling out of control. Granted, the M3/160 has the most travel of all those bikes, but The Following, Bronson and Switchblade are all touted as highly-capable descenders, perhaps considered more capable than a 140 mm Mojo 3. The M3/160 not only was a more capable descender, but it's the lightest bike of the bunch (except for the Scalpel). I ran WTB Breakout 2.5 tires with Tough/Fast casing, which were recommended by Yuba Expeditions and, although a lot heavier than other tire options, they were perfect for the Downieville terrain.

The Downieville dust looks great on her.



All cleaned up.


I'm not interested in hearing why a 160 fork is a bad choice for a Mojo 3, or how a dual air fork isn't as durable or supple as a single position fork. My experience negates your opinions. This bike is awesome.

Happy trails!
 
#310 ·
Maybe it was a 5010, not a Bronson. Those bikes are pretty similar, but I'm pretty sure he said the fork was 140 mm. Of course the pilot makes a big difference, but I've been riding with many of these guys for years, and in this case, the bike makes me better than I used to be on the descents, without slowing me down on the climbs. The rootier and rockier the terrain, the faster I am.

Now, the Switchblade did feel pretty bomber to me with the 2.8" tires, but it does have a longer wheelbase due to the ability to fit 29er wheels, and weighs more. The Following is also quite a capable descender but, in the end, I prefer the playfulness of the M3.

At 160/130, it is neither overforked nor underforked for NorCal terrain, my tastes and riding style. Most of my rides consist of long, steep climbs followed by long, steep, technical downhills, and a dual-position fork is perfect for that. 140 mm felt like too little on my previous bike and the full-on 160 mm HD3 felt sluggish. This bike is just right.
 
#311 ·
Bronson has a head angle of 66 degrees which makes it pretty darn capable downhill. I'm glad you've found the best set up for you since that's what it's all about. I just doubt ibis expect people to run a 160mm fork on an M3. I'm sure they figured if people want a 160 fork people would get the HD3. That's all.
 
#312 ·
Most bike companies design their bikes for specific categories from ultra-light XC bike to burly DH bike but I, like most riders, am looking for "The One" bike that is great all around. Ibis of all companies seems to build the best all-around bikes for real riders, not for categories. Bike reviews always say something to the effect of "the Ibis doesn't descend as well as bike A with 66-degree HTA," or "it doesn't climb as well as bike B with 71-degree HTA, but it's a great all-around bike." With a dual position fork, you don't need to compromise. You can have both slack and steep. And what better bike to do that with than one that is designed right in the middle of those two extremes?

Granted, if I was an enduro racer, I'd get an HD3, and if I was trying to get the lightest M3 possible, I'd stick with a 140 mm fork. I've discussed the fork with Ibis over the phone and they didn't say anything about voiding the warranty, but if the longer fork did cause the frame to crack (e.g. behind the bottom of the headtube), I wouldn't expect Ibis to warranty it. That said, they are still very cool when it comes to out-of-warranty replacements, as I discovered when I broke my original 2007 Mojo, and they hooked me up with a new Mojo SL frame for a very reasonable price.

Scot Nicol checked out my bike at an Ibis demo. I pointed out the 130/160 fork and asked him what he thought about it. He gave the bike a big thumbs-up with a wide grin. There was no tsk-tsk or warning about running a 160 mm fork on the Mojo 3. Scot's only comment was, "You're gonna get those gold grip caps all scratched up when you drag your bars, with all the traction you'll get."

Wilks, you're of course right about Ibis expecting people to run a 160 fork on the HD3, but I've been building bikes for over 30 years and I understand how fork length affects handling and geometry. The M3 HTA was a bit too steep for me on the descents: 160 mm fork, problem solved. The M3 was also a bit too slack for me on the steepest of climbs: flip the lever on the fork to 130 mm and problem solved again. I spend most of my time in 160 mm mode and it handles a lot better than I expected it to, even while climbing, but it is nice to be able to drop it to 130 mm for the long, steep grinds that are a part of many of the rides I do.

I've been riding the Mojo 3 for over six months now, and if I had carte blanche to build a brand new bike again today, I wouldn't change a thing, other than to start with the heavier WTB Breakout 2.5 tires with Tough/Fast casing instead of the lighter tires that got holes blown through the tread (I tried Mountain King and Bontrager XR4 Team Issue 2.4s). I haven't gotten past 2.5" tires, but when I compared my 2.5" Breakouts to the 2.8" Rekons on my buddy's Switchblade, the size difference was negligible.

Anyway, I just thought I would share my positive experience. I still haven't heard from anyone else who has tried a 130/160 fork on the Mojo 3... Please chime in if you've tried it, so we can compare notes. Here's my complete build, with obnoxious photo shoot: http://forums.mtbr.com/ibis/mojo-3-picture-build-thread-1004156-4.html#post12634021

:thumbsup:
 
#313 · (Edited)
New build

Just got my large Mojo 3 built and ready to ride! The bike is all XTR except the XX1 cassette, Ibis 742/Maxxis Ikons 2.8, Fox Pushed 34 130, Fox DPS, Next SL G4, eggbeater 11, KS Lev 150, old Selle Italia SLR carbon saddle, Enve stem and bar, ESI grips, Mucky Nuts fender, Enve bottle cage. Weight 25lbs 4oz as shown. Trusty HD 27.5/26 moved to backup.
 

Attachments

#319 ·
New Build - Overforked club (Talas 150/120)

XL Frame
Fox 34 Talas FIT4 150-120mm
Ibis 742/Industry Nine with Nobby nic 2.8s
SRAM Eagle XX1 cassette, crank, and chain
SRAM Eagle X01 shifters, and derailleurs
Guide Ultimate brakes
Reverb stealth dropper (150)
Chris King headset
Chromag BZA 35 carbon bars (800mm) 35mm rise
Chromag BZA 35 stem (50mm)
ODI Elite Flow grips
Specialized Phenom Pro saddle
Xpedo Spry pedals
Tallac House Behold Bicycle Tool Cage with Kargo Bag (7.5 inches)
 
#323 ·
Agreed on the 150:thumbsup:, I had multiple test rides with the 140, and am happy with this setup.
I only use the 120 on steep and/or extended climbs, but it definitely makes those more comfortable. Had thought that I might move it to 130, but I like it where it is.
 
#324 ·
Regarding XL size, I am 6'1" with slightly long torso and 32.5 to 33 inch inseam. I test rode L size only before buying and felt a little cramped, so went with the XL, and for me it was the right choice. The XL sizing compares closely to some other brands updated L sizing. Just wish the seat tube was shorter so I could have gone to a 170mm dropper.
 
#326 ·
I found my Mojo, baby!

Now that I've ridden my new Mojo 3 for a while, here are my impressions:

My other bike is a Santa Cruz Blur LT - 26" wheels, 140mm travel front and back. It's a very capable bike and I have ridden it in the UK, Scotland, France, etc. It's been used for easy X-C to ridiculous Alpine descents. It certainly isn't the Blur that is holding me back!

Climbing: the M3 climbs better. Even with the harder chainring, I was easily cleaning technical sections that I have got hung up on in the past. Is it because the tires are wider with more grip? Or is it that they are larger diameter so roll over stuff better? Or is it the bike weight or suspension design? I don't know but it makes the climbs easier.

Descending: Familiar descents are faster than I ever dared ride them before! The grip is very confidence-inspiring and the improved roll-over makes the rocky bits feel less threatening and kind of smooths out the trail.

General handling: on paper, the medium M3 is longer than the Blur but on the bike, it is shorter. To be fair, the M3 felt very natural right away and not that different from the Blur.

In short, I love my Mojo!
 
#327 ·
Now that I've ridden my new Mojo 3 for a while, here are my impressions:

My other bike is a Santa Cruz Blur LT - 26" wheels, 140mm travel front and back. It's a very capable bike and I have ridden it in the UK, Scotland, France, etc. It's been used for easy X-C to ridiculous Alpine descents. It certainly isn't the Blur that is holding me back!

Climbing: the M3 climbs better. Even with the harder chainring, I was easily cleaning technical sections that I have got hung up on in the past. Is it because the tires are wider with more grip? Or is it that they are larger diameter so roll over stuff better? Or is it the bike weight or suspension design? I don't know but it makes the climbs easier.

Descending: Familiar descents are faster than I ever dared ride them before! The grip is very confidence-inspiring and the improved roll-over makes the rocky bits feel less threatening and kind of smooths out the trail.

General handling: on paper, the medium M3 is longer than the Blur but on the bike, it is shorter. To be fair, the M3 felt very natural right away and not that different from the Blur.

In short, I love my Mojo!
View attachment 1094055
Who's fender?
 
#328 ·
I am pretty convinced that this needs to be my next bike. I have a Cannondale Bad Habit 1 and have had a pretty poor experience with it. I think to get the most out of my original purchase i can take the dropper post i bought for the BH (same size) and the Lefty over to a Mojo 3. The Lefty is currently a 120mm but it can be adapted to a 130mm.

I've built a hardtail from frame up a couple months ago so i'm an amateur at best. I wanted to ask if anyone can think of any reason why i can't take my Lefty over to a Mojo 3 with a Lefty Conversion kit. What kind of pumps me up is the Lefty i have is specifically designed for 27.5+ tires.
 
#344 ·
It's a compromise vs the DHF 2.3" I had on previously. It rolls better, but doesn't grip as well. I go on the occasional 25+ mile ride with my Mojo, so I'm willing to give up a bit of grip for more efficiency.

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Try the Maxxis Forekaster. I tried the ardent and wasn't happy. I put Forekasters front and rear on my Ripley LS and love the grip.

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