Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
701 - 720 of 845 Posts
Incorrect, non boost have better chainline. I fit a 1Up 32t oval on my XTR cranks.

Someone else posted pictures of his XT cranks- he returned the boost one and went non boost for better chain line.
TwoTone

I know you've since sold your Mojo 3 but do you think you would have had enough room (with your non boost cranks) to move your crank more inwards via BB spacers?

Right now on my 5010 I've split up the required 2.5mm spacer with the Wheels Manufacturing ones. I have the 0.7mm on DS and the 1.8mm on NDS. Chainline seems to be bang on.

Wondering if there will be enough room to do this on a Mojo 3? I have an XTR crank with WT 30t ring, so have a bit of extra room there (vs the 32t).

Thanks
 
I'm the one who posted the non-Boost XT cranks on Mojo3. With XT M8000 non-Boost cranks and XT 30T single ring I've got 4-5mm clear space to the chainstay. So you might be OK moving the BB over a few mm.
 
I'm the one who posted the non-Boost XT cranks on Mojo3. With XT M8000 non-Boost cranks and XT 30T single ring I've got 4-5mm clear space to the chainstay. So you might be OK moving the BB over a few mm.
Thanks rglsr
I think the WT version moves the ring further in than the Shimano one so maybe a bit less room to spare. But I could be wrong there.
Assuming you're still running this setup on the Mojo 3, how's shifting? Especially onto the larger cogs.
 
Thanks rglsr
I think the WT version moves the ring further in than the Shimano one so maybe a bit less room to spare. But I could be wrong there.
Assuming you're still running this setup on the Mojo 3, how's shifting? Especially onto the larger cogs.
Still running non-Boost XT M8000 cranks/drivetrain, 30T front, 11-42 cassette. Shifting is great, no issues. Next drive train replacement I think I'll bump the front to 32T (it should fit) and 11-46 rear for a bit more range. Why do you want to move the BB inward more? I think the non-Boost cranks on the Mojo3 net a damn near optimal chainline, 1X only of course. I'm running the standard 2X BB spacers on drive side.
 
Still running non-Boost XT M8000 cranks/drivetrain, 30T front, 11-42 cassette. Shifting is great, no issues. Next drive train replacement I think I'll bump the front to 32T (it should fit) and 11-46 rear for a bit more range. Why do you want to move the BB inward more? I think the non-Boost cranks on the Mojo3 net a damn near optimal chainline, 1X only of course. I'm running the standard 2X BB spacers on drive side.
It was pretty spot on before with my current set up (XTR crank w/ WT 30T,
11-46, XTR GS rd, KMC gold chain). Certainly best, smoothest shifting I've had. I'm sure 99% of riders would have been happy.

But I'm over the top OCD about shifting. The spacers really helped fine tune it, especially in the higher gears, the biggest cogs. Now when I put the chain in the sixth gear/middle of the cassette the chainline is dead centre. Moving the crank in those last couple mm has been really nice, so I would like to be able to replicate it if I switch to a Mojo 3 frame.

That said, I'd think every frame and setup would have its variations so it may not even be needed with the Ibis (vs Santa Cruz).
 
I ran XTR non boost cranks with One Up 32th oval and XTR rear cassette with the One up 45/18.
Shifting was great.
 
I ordered my XT parts yesterday. Came out to $332 for boost cranks, derailleur, shifter, cassette, and chain. My bike built up this way from Ibis costs $1400 more so that's a hell of a deal I think. I going to try to tackle the installation myself next weekend so wish me luck. I've never messed with drivetrane parts on bikes before.
 
I ordered my XT parts yesterday. Came out to $332 for boost cranks, derailleur, shifter, cassette, and chain. My bike built up this way from Ibis costs $1400 more so that's a hell of a deal I think. I going to try to tackle the installation myself next weekend so wish me luck. I've never messed with drivetrane parts on bikes before.
To be fair you didn't get the brakes, you don't have the fox Factory suspenion, Thomson Stem, Fox Dropper, Carbon bar and you're buying at a year end clearance- while manufacturers do get some break on groups, it's not the same as a reseller dumping left overs.

So yea there's a lot more difference between the builds than you imply.
 
To be fair you didn't get the brakes, you don't have the fox Factory suspenion, Thomson Stem, Fox Dropper, Carbon bar and you're buying at a year end clearance- while manufacturers do get some break on groups, it's not the same as a reseller dumping left overs.

So yea there's a lot more difference between the builds than you imply.
I already have the xt brakes, pike, Thompson stem, carbon bar, fox dropper, and the carbon wheels with i9 hubs. All of that was factored in.
 
Stealthy build

As this thread was helpful to me when I configured my bike, I am posting couple of pictures which may inspire others in their choice.
I have 2x11 XT kit with 742 carbon i9 wheels.
I replaced saddle with San Marco Dirty Ed and handlebar with Easton Havoc.
Other changes are visual. because I didn't like those white decals inside of rear triangle and bottom frame tube, shop has covered them with protective matt black vinyl stickers. During winter it will go to paint shop. There is clear coat applied over them. I contacted Ibis support how to safely remove it, but with no answer. So they will have to figure it out themselves. Probably chemically dissolve clear coat, remove decals, apply coating again.
Decals from rims had no protective coat, so shop removed them and they are up to my taste now.
 

Attachments

Built mine up last Wednesday and got to take it on our trip with us over the weekend. I have been on 29ers for the last 5 years and wanted to try something new. This bike is an absolute blast!!

Medium GX Eagle Build
Fox Factory Front and rear
Swapped out brakes for XT



 
Image

Image


Spec:

Frame: Ibis Mojo 3 MD
Fork: Fox 34 Performance 140 mm (stock Special Blend kit)
Shock: Öhlins STX 22 Air
Wheels: Ibis 738 (stock Special Blend kit)
Tires: Maxxis DHF 2.5 WT/High Roller II 2.4
Handlebar: Enve riser bar
Grips: ESI Chunky aqua
Stem: Enve MTM 55 mm
Seatpost: Bikeyoke Revive 160 mm
Saddle: Tune Speedneedle
Brakes: Hope E4 (180 mm/160 mm Sram Centerline rotors)
Shifter: Shimano XTR M9000 with I-spec II
Rear derailleur: Shimano XTR M9000 GS
Crankset: Sram NX 175 mm (stock Special Blend kit)
Cassette: Sram XT 11-42 (stock Special Blend kit)
Chain: Sram (stock Special Blend kit)
Pedals: Xpedo M-Force 8 Ti

Other: painted port covers, some additional ti bolts apart from the stock ones.
 
SF Bay area - Mojo 3 owners?

Just curious how many hometown SF Bay/Sant Cruz mountain area Mojo3 owners around here?

What tire size do you run? 2.3, 2.5, 2.6, 2.8???

I'm wondering if the wide tires do well in our dry conditions. Plus, I'm skeptical of the extra weight, especially for long 10min+ climbs.

Have options are good, but if this bike was designed for fatter tires, how does it perform with 2.3 or 2.5s?
 
701 - 720 of 845 Posts