For me, though I think matte black looks great on a lot of other bikes, I just feel with the unique lines and organic shape of the Mojo frame it pops better with a bright color. That and I rather been seen on the trail than stealth.

 

+1

the matt carbon looked good on the tranny with the weave vanity layer but just looks plain boring on the modern Ibis' imo

Red makes all the gals wink
??

 

Here is my new Mojo 3. Loving it. XT 1x build with Ibis 738 wheelset and DHF 2.5 front tire and HR II 2.5 back tire. I have owned 2 other Mojo 3's over the past few years and sold both. They had the 2.8's as tires and I think I found my happy place with the 2.5's. Faster acceleration and love the grip. When these tires run out might try the NN 2.6 front and Rocket Ron 2.6 rear combo to lose a little weight.

 

Here is my new Mojo 3. Loving it. XT 1x build with Ibis 738 wheelset and DHF 2.5 front tire and HR II 2.5 back tire. I have owned 2 other Mojo 3's over the past few years and sold both. They had the 2.8's as tires and I think I found my happy place with the 2.5's. Faster acceleration and love the grip. When these tires run out might try the NN 2.6 front and Rocket Ron 2.6 rear combo to lose a little weight.

View attachment 1171357
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Just curious of why you have had the same bike three times (in a row I assume)? Or did you move to a different bike and come back each time? It came out in 2016, so your "past few years" comment is a bit off, unless they weren't all M3s? That's just a lot of turn over so I'm left scratching my head...

I'm in the process of getting new wheels built up (742 rims + Project 321 hubs) and will either put NN + RR on or try Maxxis Rekons. I need a good mix of efficient pedaling yet capable tires. Also pondering putting a 150mm fork on it. It's not needed, but looking to but the current fork on the gf's bike. Can anyone comment on the affects to the handling, particularly climbing?

 

Some folk like to replace their bikes when they get dirty?


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Some folk like to replace their bikes when they get dirty?

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Sorry I couldn't care less if my bikes get dirty. Also took off the clear tape that was all over this bike because I thought it looked silly having a mountain bike with protective tape all over it. Personal preference I guess.

 

Yeah, it makes sense

 

2018 Ibis Mojo 3

After reading multiple reviews, decided to build a Mojo 3. Wanted a plus bike since i already have a 29er and a 27.5. Intense and yeti were at the top of my list.
Mojo3 - Medium
GX Eagle Group / xo crankset 170
- Fox Factory shock
- rockshox pike 140
- cane creek forty 44-56 headset
- Magura MT Trail brakes/ magura 180 rotors
- raceface sixc carbon bars - cut to 770mm
- race face 50mm stem
- troy lee grips
- Deity speedtrap saddle
- 2.8" nobby nic tires
- custom built ibis 738 rims / industry nine hubs 120pt engagement
- E13 valve stems (these are awesome btw)
- 31.6 / 150 ks lev integra / wolftooth lever
- crank brother egg beater pedals
- Invisiframe protection
28.9 lbs w pedals and accessories
5'7" 168lbs
Bb to top of saddle 70cm


Generated from my Apple iPad using tools.rackonly.com

 

After reading multiple reviews, decided to build a Mojo 3. Wanted a plus bike since i already have a 29er and a 27.5. Intense and yeti were at the top of my list.
Mojo3 - Medium
GX Eagle Group / xo crankset 170
- Fox Factory shock
- rockshox pike 140
- cane creek forty 44-56 headset
- Magura MT Trail / 180 rotors
- raceface sixc carbon bars - cut to 770mm
- race face 50mm stem
- troy lee grips
- Deity speedtrap saddle
- 2.8" nobby nic tires
- custom built ibis 738 rims / industry nine hubs 120pt engagement
- 31.6 / 150 ks lev integra / wolftooth lever
- crank brother egg beater pedals
- Invisiframe protection
28.9 lbs w pedals and accessories
5'7" 168lbs
Bb to top of saddle 70cm

Dont know why the photo is flipped.

Lots of hi-res photos on flickr

https://flickr.com/photos/75509243@N06/sets/72157692019158244

Very nice build. Pretty similar to mine, which I absolutely love! Here are the differences...

XT brakes
Lizard Skin grips
Selle Italia saddle
Maxxis Rekon 2.8 tires
Custom build 738's with Onyx hubs
Reverb stealth dropper
XT pedals

XL size

Enjoy!

 

Absolutely love 'em. They've been completely bulletproof, silent, and instantly engage.

Had mikesee build them up, and he did a tremendous job and delivers amazing value. You should look him up for your next wheel set.

 

My Mojo 3 build still powering on!

 

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I ended up ordering the bike with 2.6 Minion DHF single ply. So far so good. I don't ride the super rocky stuff very often - except for Rocky Ridge in Santa Teresa once in awhile. Once I wear out the rear I might try the 2.5 Aggressor to reduce rolling resistance a bit.

Curious about dual travel fork. Don't you find the bike to be too low @130mm travel? I am still adjusting to avoid pedal strikes at the stock 140mm travel.

 

Hoooray- another rider who's seen the light! Ha!

I have 2.8" NNs on mine from new and like the profile of them on their wheels.

I too am new to riding a bike with such low feel and low bb but not found to be bucked off quite yet from clipping pedals.
A part of it has something to do with technique so pedal placement depending on trail features etc.

I am running the Pike at 140mm just the way Ibis wanted it to be.
It's a good balance which you've just reminded me to take 5psi outta front fork so it's nice and poppy feeling and cushy.

I'm personally going to add 10 odd psi to rear shock to hopefully help cure kinda the clipping obstacles. But I am always running it in open mode both r & f as it gives loadsa traction for all riding up-across-down plus do not like to muck around switching knobs.

Unless bucking you off then I would leave your 140mm fork fitted and perhaps add a few more psi to shock before adding a volume reducer to shock.
As using most of to all of travel is not a bad thing.

Loving this bike- it's absolutely been the best full suss I've ever had the pleasure of owning/riding.

Ibis all the way for me me thinks!

 

My friend wants to sell me his 160 Fox 36 for cheap, since he upgraded. I see many are running the 150 on their M3's with good results.... but.... a 160 all the time?!


^This guy seems to be on 130 setting on his dual position most of the time... Can you maybe elaborate more on the 160 setting?

Haha... I understand it's not a great idea just wondering if anyone out there is running one... The price he wants to unload the fork for has me wondering.....

 

My friend wants to sell me his 160 Fox 36 for cheap, since he upgraded. I see many are running the 150 on their M3's with good results.... but.... a 160?! Haha... I understand it's not a great idea just wondering if anyone out there is running one... The price he wants to unload the fork for has me wondering.....

I have a Rock Shox Pike RCT3 Dual Air 160/130 and usually stick to 130mm on climbs and traverses, but keep it in 160mm mode in chunkier terrain. It will work fine in 160mm mode (if sag is set properly), but climbing and tight turns will be a bit more difficult with the higher BB and slacker HTA. You can always reduce the travel of a 160mm Fox fork down to 110mm in 10mm increments, though:
2015-2017 36mm FLOAT Internally Adjusting Fork Travel | Bike Help Center | FOX

Depending on the price, it may be a good deal. That said, I believe the Fox 36 is heavier than the Pike. Performance isn't a problem, since travel is adjustable, but it may be a bit heavy. In case you're concerned about having more travel in the front than in the back, don't be: lot's of bikes have more front travel and it isn't noticeable, so long as your rear shock is adjusted properly, which may require the addition of a volume spacer if it's bottoming out or too firm.

 

No-one called the HD3 a slouch for climbing. The F36 160 will give the M3 the _exact_ same front end geo as the HD3. I'm not sure how strong/reinforced the head tube is, but geometry-wise... eh. Your bottom bracket will be raised a bit (less pedal strikes), seat slackened a tad.

 

I've ridden the HD3 and agree with gondezee: Running a longer fork makes the M3 handle like an HD3. As for strength of the Mojo 3 frame, I'm no lightweight (215 without gear) and am not concerned about frame strength. I'm not hucking off of big drops over two or three feet or doing any RedBull Rampage crap, though.

 

Hi Riders,

Need some help from M3 owners. I want to order one but need experiment something.

For some silly reasons, I love tight and short WB bikes. Wondering if your M3 frame can fit a 29 wheel to rear. If you could be so kind & helpful to "dry fit" test a 29 to the rear, and prefferably snap a photo of tire clearance.

Sorry if I come across silly, it is. But i've very unique reasons for such a tight bike for some longer distance (29 use) riding and fun. I can only order frame online. So none avail here in country to try.

Thanks in advance.

 

M3 Upgrades

I have a new set of wheels and a 150mm Pike ready to put on my M3. I had a nice set of Nox wheels but preferred to move to a bit wider rim for running 2.6s. Wheel build:

ibis 742 rims
Project 321 hubs, silent freehub option, XD driver, orange
Sapim CX Ray spokes, black alloy nipples
Centerline rotors
Nobby Nic front
Racing Ralph rear
11-42 XO cassette

Wheels without rotors, rim tape, tires were 1600g/pr. Not as light as the other wheels, but not bad considering the rim width.

I'm eager to try these out but we're getting another blast of winter. Oh well, guess I'll have to stay on the fat bike a while longer.

 

I'm eager to try these out but we're getting another blast of winter. Oh well, guess I'll have to stay on the fat bike a while longer.

I took my Mojo 3 with 2.8 Rekons out last week-end in packed snow/ice, conditions I would usually pull out the the Fat bike for. I was very pleasantly surprised at the traction. Huge improvement over the 26 inch 2.1s I used to ride in the snow.

 

I finally got a couple of rides in on the new set-up: switched to 150mm Pike and 742 rims with 2.6NN front/2.6RR rear. I lowered the stem by 10mm to account for the raised front end. The handling doesn't feel too different, though as expected, there was a little trade off between downhill confidence and steering precision on everything else. Ultimately this is what I was shooting for. It didn't "break" it and I will adjust in time, but it is different than the fast turning front Rocket Ron on a narrower rim that I was running before. This width of room supports the 2.6s well and is good for the lower pressures that I like to ride (I think I was at 15psi front, 16psi rear). I do like the quiet running Project 321 hubs. I never loved the sound of the Hopes.

I'm hoping it was just my rusty spring skills, but I did slide out on a corner when the front tire caught a small rut and didn't claw it's way out. I was pushing it a bit, but not crazy. I could go to a more aggressive front tire, but really don't want a heavy, draggy tire to deal with on every other part of the ride.

I do think this set-up alleviated pedal strikes as well. I was testing it a bit and didn't have any. More time will tell.

 

Hi gang,
I'm pretty sure I saw it here in one of the forums but can't seem to find it now. Does anyone use a mud "protector" for the rear lower pivot?
Cheers,

 

Just for rear upper pivots...

 

A guy I know managed to squeeze a Mucky Nutz fender in there.

 

Ok thanks I'll check it out.
I saw on the Pivot forums that they use a rubber cut out with an adhesive backing right over the linkage instead of a fender.

 

My Mojo 3

My medium Mojo 3:
Frame: Mojo 3 (medium, Corinthian red) w. downtube protector, black ti bolts all around
Shock: Öhlins STX 22
Fork: Öhlins RXF 36 27.5" Air (150 mm, 46 mm offset, 543mm A-to-C, black ti bolts)
Misc.: MarshGuard Plus 275 Mudguard (black)
Headset: Cane Creek 110 ZS 44/56 (black)
Handlebar: Enve RSR (760 mm)
Stem: Enve MTN (55 mm, 6°, black ti bolts)
Grips: ESI Chunky (aqua)
Seatpost: BikeYoke Revive 31.6 mm, 160 mm w. ti bolts
Dropper remote: BikeYoke Revive with Sram matchmaker
Saddle: Tune Speedneedle
Front brake: Hope Tech 3 master cylinder with Sram matchmaker / E4 caliper, Hope 200 mm floating rotor (black ti bolts)
Rear brake: Hope Tech 3 master cylinder with I-Spec II matchmaker / E4 caliper, Hope 160 mm floating rotor (black ti bolts)
Shifter: XTR SL-M9000 I-Spec II
Rear derailleur: XTR RD-M9000 GS (tuned with ti bolts, Extralite pulleys, carbon inner cage)
Crankset: Sram XX1 Eagle GXP (170 mm) w. 30T X-Sync 2 chainring (boost offset) and crank boots
Bottom Bracket: Sram GXP
Chain: KMC X11-SL DLC, 108 links (black)
Cassette: Sram X01 XG-1195 (10-42)
Front wheel:
Rim: Ibis 742 w. black logos
Spokes: 32 x Sapim CX-Ray, 274 mm (black)
Nipples: 32 x Sapim double square aluminum nipples
Hub: Onyx Racing MTB (110x15 mm, 32 hole, ISO 6 bolt, Baby Blue powder coating, black details)
Misc.: Barbieri Carbon Presta Tubeless Valve 35mm, Stan's 27 mm rim tape
Rear wheel:
Rim: Ibis 742 w. black logos
Spokes: 32 x Sapim CX-Ray, 274 mm (black)
Nipples: 32 x Sapim double square aluminum nipples
Hub: Onyx Racing MTB (148x12 mm, 32 hole, ISO 6 bolt, Aluminum XD-driver, Baby Blue powder coating, black details)
Misc.: Barbieri Carbon Presta Tubeless Valve 35mm, Stan's 27 mm rim tape

Front tire: Schwalbe Magic Mary 27.5x2.6" SnakeSkin APEX, ADDIX Soft
Misc: Schwalbe Doc Blue 60 mm sealant
Rear tire: Schwalbe Magic Mary 27.5x2.6" SnakeSkin APEX, ADDIX Speedgrip
Misc: Schwalbe Doc Blue 60 mm sealant

More pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Epspe63670yrnIjS2

 

Nice, what’s the weight with changing to ti bolts/screws. My mediume Black is 27.6lbs with rekon+ tires.

 

Nice, what's the weight with changing to ti bolts/screws. My mediume Black is 27.6lbs with rekon+ tires.

It weighs in at around 12.65 kg (27.9 lbs) with my Xpedo M-Force 8 Ti pedals (which weigh 215 grams). The heavy parts on this build are the tires (1000 grams each), the hubs (which are around 270 grams heavier than a pair of DT 240s) and the fork. Honestly, the titanium bolts are mostly for a nice black finish and corrosion resistance, they don't shave too much weight off.

 

Yeah, tires do make up lots of weight. mine with Maxxis Minion DHF+/dhr2+ weight in at 28.5lbs.

 

Late to the party and just a stock build...





.

 

Are those tires the 2.5 width? They look fatter than that?

 

Looks like 2.8 DHFs.

 

My green machine...after a ride at Shawnee Mission Park Trails yesterday.

 

My green machine...after a ride at Shawnee Mission Park Trails yesterday.

View attachment 1202153

View attachment 1202155

Nice HD3, bit this is the Mojo 3 Thread

 

Lovin the green and kinda wish it was available on the Mojo 3 but I have a thirst for blood red in colour that is.

 

My bad, apologies for the mistake, got so excited i didnt look.

 

No need to apologize. That's a sweet bike..I've always really liked that green on the HD3.

 

Question for frame up builders, especially CK inset 2 users. Do you ream and face your own head tubes? Have LBS install the headset? Just thwack it with a 2x4 anyway?....with precision. Just received the headset and read the directions. I'm waiting for a large M3 frame and I'm new to carbon. Thanks in advance.

 

I had my M3 sent to me with headset installed and I'm glad I did. Not saying Ibis would have given me a hard time, but my frame had a crack at the head tube and it was worth the small install cost to be able to say the shop installed it.

 

You need to get yourself a press. Check out Wheels Mfg. For a good press for not too much money. I've done them myself since I started my own wrenching and its not hard, but you need a good press (and drifts) or its tough to get the cups adequately angled for a smooth insert.

***Sorry this was meant for cwa11is 67 not TwoTone