Who's gett'n one, got one and who's ridden one? Whats your thoughts?
bigcrs
Quick question, my second Mattoc was about 5ml overfilled with oil like my first one.
Does this only influence the amount the suspension travel or does this also influence how the fork feels before reaching full travel?
I'm asking because is seems to move more freely now, but I could be mistaken.
Does this only influence the amount the suspension travel or does this also influence how the fork feels before reaching full travel?
I'm asking because is seems to move more freely now, but I could be mistaken.
Like I said they should be putting the IRT kit on standard for the PRO. Would create a lot more hype around the Mattoc.
Manitou Mattoc Pro 160mm fork review - MBR
The best 160 mm MTB fork you can buy | Page 4 of 12 | ENDURO Mountainbike Magazine
Manitou Mattoc Pro 160mm fork review - MBR
The best 160 mm MTB fork you can buy | Page 4 of 12 | ENDURO Mountainbike Magazine
Completely agree. OR create a new trim level above pro!
...and unfortunately I can't rep you again. You deserve it, someone else, please green this guy up.
...and unfortunately I can't rep you again. You deserve it, someone else, please green this guy up.
Just did the IRT upgrade on my son's Mattoc. He says it is now much plusher on the chatter, but ramps up better on the jumps (he has a McLeod on the rear of his Turner Burner). It took all of 5 minutes to do. Running 40 in the main chamber and 90psi in the irt for his 155 pounds.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD so please forgive the typos that occur when typing with two fingers.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD so please forgive the typos that occur when typing with two fingers.
Hi, just got a Mattoc pro 2 and want to run a 203mm rotor using Magura MT5 brakes. Can anyone please tell me what post mount adapter to use? I have tried 3 different post mount 203mm adapters and none bring my caliper into the correct position.
Regards
Regards
I used SM-MA90-F180P/P which is front adaptor for 180mm rotors with 1mm washers, worked without problems for months before I got the correct one
Which was?
Which was?
Hey all, I'm selling an OG mattoc pro in white. Currently set to 140mm and includes all of the spare parts for 27.5 conversion. Recently upgraded the axle to a hexlock SL, but original axle and parts will be included. Had a damper bleed/ service and new seals in the spring, so it should be good to go for awhile. There's some paint missing on the crown (because the paint is super thin) and some other cosmetic battle scars consistent with being ridden on a trail bike. Otherwise, it's super smooth and good to go. Asking $350 shipped OBO. Please shoot me a message for pictures or if you have additional questions.
Cheers!
Cheers!
I thought the only difference was the travel. IE you could run the fork in 170mm in 26" but 160mm for the 650B.
Just by changing a spacer round.
Just by changing a spacer round.
A mate of mine recently bought a Mattoc Expert off CRC, listed as 27.5. When it arrived it was actually set as 26, with no parts kit supplied. He got no love from CRC and this was Manitou's reply:
Hello Craig,
We never actually made this part available in the aftermarket. It was solely released with the early Mattocs during the large 26in to 27.5" transition that was occurring around this time. These conversion parts may be difficult to find. The other option here is to order the 27.5mm rebound rod kit which will have the 27.5 cylinder installed.
The tool kit is not included with a new fork as well. This is only sold as an aftermarket kit.
These can be ordered from your local bicycle shop through their Manitou distributor.
Let me know if I can help you with any other questions you may have,
Hayes Techsupport Team-
Hello Craig,
We never actually made this part available in the aftermarket. It was solely released with the early Mattocs during the large 26in to 27.5" transition that was occurring around this time. These conversion parts may be difficult to find. The other option here is to order the 27.5mm rebound rod kit which will have the 27.5 cylinder installed.
The tool kit is not included with a new fork as well. This is only sold as an aftermarket kit.
These can be ordered from your local bicycle shop through their Manitou distributor.
Let me know if I can help you with any other questions you may have,
Hayes Techsupport Team-
Hi all just got some magnums for my 29 plus bike. This seems to be the place to get info (not much about) so perhaps one of you lot can help answer a few questions.
So read through all posts and seems to be common about the travel.... I get 90mm with no air in (measure with ruler from top of wiper seal to o ring). These were sold as 100mm travel.
The HBO seems to do nothing with no air in there seems to be no difference pushing down on forks. O ring ends up in same position and no difference in feel (expected some resistance towards end of travel as hydraulic circuit kicked in) - will I only notice this on the trail?
I only seem to have 3 clicks on high speed compression. There are 5 positions but only 3 definite clicks (where I can hear the balls falling into detents). Should I have 5 definite clicks? Or do the max and min positions count too? Getting confused by the setup as keeps referring to 5 clicks.
Apart from that the fork is lovely.... Nice and plush and the low speed compression works fine (locks fork out with full hsc) backing off hsc and fork livens up as expected. Rebound works fine too.
So what do you guys think? All normal?
Many thanks
So read through all posts and seems to be common about the travel.... I get 90mm with no air in (measure with ruler from top of wiper seal to o ring). These were sold as 100mm travel.
The HBO seems to do nothing with no air in there seems to be no difference pushing down on forks. O ring ends up in same position and no difference in feel (expected some resistance towards end of travel as hydraulic circuit kicked in) - will I only notice this on the trail?
I only seem to have 3 clicks on high speed compression. There are 5 positions but only 3 definite clicks (where I can hear the balls falling into detents). Should I have 5 definite clicks? Or do the max and min positions count too? Getting confused by the setup as keeps referring to 5 clicks.
Apart from that the fork is lovely.... Nice and plush and the low speed compression works fine (locks fork out with full hsc) backing off hsc and fork livens up as expected. Rebound works fine too.
So what do you guys think? All normal?
Many thanks
Awesome thanks assume I won't do any damage riding with a little extra oil in the damper. Will make sure when I service to use the correct amount of oil! My rockshoxs with the black box damper were the same in that a few ml (or cc) of extra oil would cause them to drop travel. Looking at the YouTube video the damper oil replacement procedure is pretty similar (always had Rockshox so these manitous are all new to me)
Thanks for taking the time to reply
assume I won't do any damage riding with a little extra oil in the damper. Will make sure when I service to use the correct amount of oil! My rockshoxs with the black box damper were the same in that a few ml (or cc) of extra oil would cause them to drop travel. Looking at the YouTube video the damper oil replacement procedure is pretty similar (always had Rockshox so these manitous are all new to me) Thanks for taking the time to reply
One interesting difference between the Mattoc Comp and Pro (can't confirm on the expert) is the weight of the crown and stanchions.
I had to swap out a crown-steerer after a courier crushed a fork. The CSU is around 935g with a cut steerer.
A Mattoc Pro CSU is around 780g with a longer cut steerer.
That's like 1/3 of a pound.
I had to swap out a crown-steerer after a courier crushed a fork. The CSU is around 935g with a cut steerer.
A Mattoc Pro CSU is around 780g with a longer cut steerer.
That's like 1/3 of a pound.
That's a complicated question as both have pros and cons.
The biggest advantage that the charger damper has is that it's a fully sealed and bled cartridge that isolates oil from air. This gives a more consistent damper as the oil can't foam or get air bubbles in it. The mc2 damper has a foam compensator to get air to a minimum and the air is at a minimum. Performance wise though, the closed cartridge is the better design(harder to do maintenance on the charger as well)
The charger damper has a preloaded shim stack to make the compression adjustments noticeable and give a fairly firm pedal feature. This causes spiking on high speed events and can only be fixed by retuning the shims stack. The mc2 damperso hsc controls the preload, ranging from no preload to a highly preloaded stack without the need to pull the damper apart. Big advantage for the mc2.
Mc2 also has an adjustable hbo system, charger uses rubber bumpers. Another big advantage for the mc2
Overall, I have owned both and the mc2 is the better dampers on the trail in my opinion. I think a tuned charger may close the gap, but the range of tuning options the mc2 damper has out weighs the advantage the charger cartridge has. On the trail, the mc2 is just controlled and smooth.
The biggest advantage that the charger damper has is that it's a fully sealed and bled cartridge that isolates oil from air. This gives a more consistent damper as the oil can't foam or get air bubbles in it. The mc2 damper has a foam compensator to get air to a minimum and the air is at a minimum. Performance wise though, the closed cartridge is the better design(harder to do maintenance on the charger as well)
The charger damper has a preloaded shim stack to make the compression adjustments noticeable and give a fairly firm pedal feature. This causes spiking on high speed events and can only be fixed by retuning the shims stack. The mc2 damperso hsc controls the preload, ranging from no preload to a highly preloaded stack without the need to pull the damper apart. Big advantage for the mc2.
Mc2 also has an adjustable hbo system, charger uses rubber bumpers. Another big advantage for the mc2
Overall, I have owned both and the mc2 is the better dampers on the trail in my opinion. I think a tuned charger may close the gap, but the range of tuning options the mc2 damper has out weighs the advantage the charger cartridge has. On the trail, the mc2 is just controlled and smooth.
Very true. The oem business appears to be picking up slowly, still lags behind though.
I think the lack of a full product lineup doesn't help either.
If anyone wants to fix small bump sensitivity to bring it up to pike/float level. Fox 34 skf seals and either fox gold oil or supergliss (can buy it from dougal) will get you there. IRT helps as well, but the stiction on the lowers frees up completely with this set up. When I made the switch, my lowers would slide on under there own weight (kinda annoying when trying to add semi-bath oil). Well worth the money.
I think the lack of a full product lineup doesn't help either.
If anyone wants to fix small bump sensitivity to bring it up to pike/float level. Fox 34 skf seals and either fox gold oil or supergliss (can buy it from dougal) will get you there. IRT helps as well, but the stiction on the lowers frees up completely with this set up. When I made the switch, my lowers would slide on under there own weight (kinda annoying when trying to add semi-bath oil). Well worth the money.
That's only the Fox wiper seals? Don't know if Fox uses oil seals as well, forks I've had didn't have oil seals. They did have foam rings, which was a bit of a surprise when I opened my Mattoc for the first time 'is there something missing?' Ah no, it doesn't use foam rings.
Fox 20wt Gold is on the list too, I use regular 5W40 synthetic motor oil, sourced locally. But like you mentioned it does tend to have some stiction, most notably when you compress the forks whilst standing next to the bike (actually riding it and it's far less noticeable). After the first time I pulled it apart I thought the seals might needed changing or that the air piston wasn't lubed well (use Prep M now, hadn't arrived then so a similar grease had to do). You could hear it, like a rubbing sound.
On a different note, does someone have the email address for Manitou customer/tech support? Or how I get hold of an updated air piston? Mine is the old design and it tends to have the oil migration problem. Last weekend on a ride it stiffened up very noticeably.
Fox 20wt Gold is on the list too, I use regular 5W40 synthetic motor oil, sourced locally. But like you mentioned it does tend to have some stiction, most notably when you compress the forks whilst standing next to the bike (actually riding it and it's far less noticeable). After the first time I pulled it apart I thought the seals might needed changing or that the air piston wasn't lubed well (use Prep M now, hadn't arrived then so a similar grease had to do). You could hear it, like a rubbing sound.
On a different note, does someone have the email address for Manitou customer/tech support? Or how I get hold of an updated air piston? Mine is the old design and it tends to have the oil migration problem. Last weekend on a ride it stiffened up very noticeably.
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