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long-term resistance of seals to Slickoleum / Slick Honey?

14K views 60 replies 18 participants last post by  Cleared2land  
#1 · (Edited)
Last year I spoke to reputable shock service and the owner told me they don't use Slickoleum because it would damage the seals material long term in their experience.
I was surprised to hear that since the manufacturer says "great for seals" and a lot of people seem to be using it. Has anybody else made that experience, too?
Has anybody had a seal in contact Slickoleum for a long time, lets say 5 years or more and can share their experience?
 
#5 ·
I've been using Slickoleum for ~24 years now. I trust it more than some random shop.

My 2005 Manitou Nixon gets a new set of seals about every 8 years or so. I've always used Slickoleum and never had an issue. That would be the longest term testing I've got.
 
#6 ·
Thanks! It wasn't a random shop though, that's why I'm asking.

Do you replace the Slickoleum in between or do you let it age for 8 years?
 
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#10 ·
How many bikes have you got?

Me and my customers are getting an easy 3 seaons from SKF seals, often longer. My current Mezzer SKF seals are about 2.5 years old and zero problems. Usually it's UV exposure that causes them to crack and fail.
The Trelleborg seals on my Nixon are about 8 years old. The fork itself is 18 years old.
 
#15 ·
Oh, wait.... "Safe for all kinds of seals, elastomers, and O-rings, except EPDM rubber." (Slickoleum.com)
Maybe that's where the experience of that shop originates from. EPDM is not resistant to oil, so they can't be used in an oil damper. But perhaps someone used EPDM rings in an air spring. 🤔
 
#20 · (Edited)
🤷‍♂️

I'm figuring that Slickoleum appears to be known to search engines mostly in biking context, much less moto, and nothing else that's significant. So there must be other industrial greases for this application (that may or may not be similar to Slickoleum).

I'm actually wondering why Slickoleum is so popular? How does it compare to famous "bike specifc" bearing greases, or other NLGI "1.5" (anhydrous calcium) greases when used in bike suspension parts?
 
#19 ·
It's noteworthy that every suspension manufacturer that I'm aware of recommends Slickoleum/Slick Honey for use on seals and "O" rings. But this get questioned?
I have used Slickoleum for more than 20 years. Extensively. I have never experienced any issues long or short term.
Great light grease.

Seals - I perform regular service, but I don't replace seals until they begin leaking.
 
#24 ·
I have zero worry. My oldest fork is a 1996 Judy with Englund Air carts that have had Slick Honey since day 1. It rarely gets ridden, so they just get re-lubricated every few years. Even being treated badly like that, they still hold air and no signs of damage from the Slick Honey.

Heat and contaminants is what damages seals. Not lube.

My guess is either they are trying to up-sell some expensive snake oil, or they've figured out how to source a similar lubricant at cheaper prices to avoid paying the absurd bicycle lubricant markups.
 
#25 ·
My guess is either they are trying to up-sell some expensive snake oil, or they've figured out how to source a similar lubricant at cheaper prices to avoid paying the absurd bicycle lubricant markups.
Nope they didn't. They only said, they don't use Slickoleum when I mentioned that I've been using it. Their service price was very reasonble.
 
#38 ·
Rhodina BBZ looks a lot more milky than caramel coloured:

Image


You guys know that Arlo Englund started producing what is known as Slickoleum back in the mid 90's right? I still have an original (empty) jar of Buzzy's Slick Honey.
 
#43 · (Edited)
I dont ride through mud/rain but if I must it is very brief or less speed. I will use the grease for install of BB not on bearings since its cheap to replace whole BB.

I have Shamano threaded & press fit bikes and a FSA MegaEXO threaded BB road bike so shall I use Autol TOP 2000 or Motorex 2000?

Motorex is easy to get:
Says SHIMANO but only 100g:
https://www.amazon.com/Motorex-Fett...H&keywords=motorex+2000&qid=1679948884&sprefix=motorex+2000,aps,227&sr=8-3&th=1
or
400g:

Oh my brain lol
 
#44 ·
shall I use Autol TOP 2000 or Motorex 2000?
Use which ever you have or are able to get. Both greases are similar (not identical). I haven't seen Eni Autol anywhere in the US yet branded as such.

I don't know why Amazon says "brand: Shimano", the brand is obviously Motorex. Maybe because it is sold by a "SHIMANO" store? Don't know.

or
400g:
The 400 g is cheaper per gram but is more product (than you might need for a while) and more expensive overall. You set your priorities.
 
#54 · (Edited)
Motorex 2000
I generally buy the 850 gm tubs and the 100 gm squeeze tubes for the small thread-on grease gun. I have not been able to find the 100 gm tubes in a while and have resorted to repacking the tubes via a 60mL syringe. I just use the tub and the reload disk in the tub to fill up the syringe and re-inject it into the 100 gm tubes. I would rather just buy the 100 gm tubes, but this works great.
 
#55 ·
Motorex 2000
I generally buy the 850 gm tubs and the 100 gm tubes for the small thread-on grease gun. I have not been able to find the 100 gm tubes in a while and have resorted to repacking the tubes via a 60mL syringe. I just use the tub and the reload disk in the tub to fill up the syringe and re-inject it into the 100 gm tubes. I would rather just buy the 100 gm tubes, but this works great.
Yeah the screw on tubes disappeared years ago in favour of the reloadable grease-guns.

You could just go 400gm grease gun and cartrige route. Gun is cheaper, grease is great value. Probably take a while to get through a tube though.