[ehfour]

Why buy an entirely new BB, why not just buy the bearings?

Good point- is there a way to pop and replace the bearings without specialized tools?

 

[Jayem]

Good point- is there a way to pop and replace the bearings without specialized tools?

Kind of,

You can usually punch out bearings with a punch from the opposite side, that's not too specialized. A blind-bearing puller is a better tool for this, but a punch will work, moving around the outside edge. Installation is a bit trickier. I got a wheels-mfg BB installer tool and bough a bunch of their bearing tools to have, I even just used the BB tool to install a headset, but in the past I've used a variety of methods to press them in. The key is you don't want to be punching or hitting the inner race/metal support or on the seal. This destroys the bearing/race interface and causes premature bearing wear/failure. So you want something large enough where you can press/knock it in from that outer metal race. You can also make your own tools from threaded rods, nuts and other simple stuff. One "cheat" Is to use the old bearing as a guide and to push in the new bearing, as the metal edges will make contact and not be impacting the bearings themselves.

 

[Pepe Sylvia]

I knew it lol. No disrespect to the higher end Dub BBs because they look nice but the entry level one I had problems with was a cheap plastic pos.

And since my other bike runs Shimano and I’ve been more than satisfied with the performance of the BB MT800 not to mention how low pro it is the Dub went bye bye

 

[toadmeister]

I thought I had a cranky BB recently. After taking my crankarms off, cleaning, degreasing , and than putting back together properly with some Blue Thread-locker in the threads, problem went away.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Prognosticator]

This problem persists after replacing the BB.

As an experiment,I pedaled with one leg at a time, other foot completely off the pedals, no sound on either side. But as soon as I pedal with both legs, the sound returns.

I also changed out the chainring since I thought it might be related to the elliptical. Still makes the sound. I guess I will slap a backup chain on there next.

 

[2021Mach6]

This problem persists after replacing the BB.

As an experiment,I pedaled with one leg at a time, other foot completely off the pedals, no sound on either side. But as soon as I pedal with both legs, the sound returns.

I also changed out the chainring since I thought it might be related to the elliptical. Still makes the sound. I guess I will slap a backup chain on there next.

I once had a noise which I would've bet my life savings was coming from my BB ... Ended up being my seat post. Looks like you at least eliminated that with your test though. I'd check everything for proper torque, look at rear shock too, but it's also possible there's a slight fracture you're just not able to see (let's hope not). You sound like you're pretty good at wrenching yourself, but after going down the typical BB noise checklist, I'd take it to my LBS and have them take a look. If it's a new bike and everything is torqued properly, and you replaced the BB already, and it's not your pedals, chainring, seat post, etc I'd definitely have it inspected for cracks.

Thank you for keeping us updated and good luck ... Oh, and are you able to post a video on here of it making the noise? Might be easier to diagnose if we can see it.

 

[toadmeister]

I had a similar sound recently. Took everything apart, degreased and cleaned. Assembled back together and used blue loctite on the splined interfaces and threaded portions. Problem gone!

 

[Prognosticator]

I tried a back up chain. Same problem. I had two strangers ride the bike in the parking lot when I finished my ride yesterday. Both could feel and hear the problem. Neither could figure out the cause.

 

[pelts79]

One time I had bad noise due to applying torque and it turned out to be the rear hub bearings.

 

[D(C)]

This hasn’t been mentioned yet - I’ve had noise come from over-tightening the preload ring on a DUB setup.

 

[Cleared2land]

Shot gunning parts is a waste of $$$

Work to isolate your problem.

 

[slimat99]

I recently replaced a chain/ring, degreased and repacked the BB and greased the crank spindle/DM ring interface. The non drive side pedal click went away for 5 rides returning on the 6th. I'm assuming the click was coming from something I just listed. Odd it came back so soon. Probably has something to do with tolerances. Grease compensates for poor tolerances but sometimes not for long.

 

[Prognosticator]

LBS has determined that the drive side crank is separating from the aluminum insert. SRAM XO carbon crankset. Warranty replacement process has been started. Won't know for a few days whether or not they have any in stock to replace. If replacement will take a long time, I will move the Shimano BB and cranks from my TB2 to the Ripley.

This is my first experience with carbon cranks or SRAM. I didn't want all the carbon on this bike but I had to buy it new as is.

 

[J.B. Weld]

This is my first experience with carbon cranks or SRAM. I didn't want all the carbon on this bike but I had to buy it new as is.

I wouldn't worry, I know people who have been flogging carbon cranks (and lots of other carbon stuff) for years zero problems. Warranty issues can happen with any part.

 

[bingemtbr]

The SRAM Dub bb that came with my XO1 kit was trash within a few hundred miles. The shop was in the process of warrantying it when I realized (at the time, May 2020) it was a $25 bottom bracket. You get what you pay for. I ended up replacing it with a King and have had zero issues since BUT pretty much every different brand of BB requires its own tool. Keep that added tool cost in mind if you intend to install yourself.

 

[Prognosticator]

It will be three weeks before SRAM can deliver the cranks. I hope that's the case. Not a bad result given the current environment.

In the meantime, I will transfer the Shimano BB and cranks from my TB2 to the Ripley.

 

[frdfandc]

LBS has determined that the drive side crank is separating from the aluminum insert. SRAM XO carbon crankset. Warranty replacement process has been started. Won't know for a few days whether or not they have any in stock to replace. If replacement will take a long time, I will move the Shimano BB and cranks from my TB2 to the Ripley.

This is my first experience with carbon cranks or SRAM. I didn't want all the carbon on this bike but I had to buy it new as is.

I ran XO cranks for about 5 years without issue before I sold them. They are still going strong on a friends bike. Just chalk it up as a bad crank arm, not a normal issue.

 

[Prognosticator]

Closing the loop on this thread. The cranks came two weeks early! Whoop! Installed and ready to roll!

 

[mtnbikerva1]

Kind of,

You can usually punch out bearings with a punch from the opposite side, that's not too specialized. A blind-bearing puller is a better tool for this, but a punch will work, moving around the outside edge. Installation is a bit trickier. I got a wheels-mfg BB installer tool and bough a bunch of their bearing tools to have, I even just used the BB tool to install a headset, but in the past I've used a variety of methods to press them in. The key is you don't want to be punching or hitting the inner race/metal support or on the seal. This destroys the bearing/race interface and causes premature bearing wear/failure. So you want something large enough where you can press/knock it in from that outer metal race. You can also make your own tools from threaded rods, nuts and other simple stuff. One "cheat" Is to use the old bearing as a guide and to push in the new bearing, as the metal edges will make contact and not be impacting the bearings themselves.

Listen to Jayem and his, Good smart non expensive advice done properly.