..maybe even put a ava can on

I read somewhere that they don't recommend it...DW said so himself.....I don't know the exact thread but he was saying that the Mojo was designed around the rp23's spring rate so you're basically throwing that engineering out the door when you change the shock. However, there are guys that have done so. They'll probably chime in.

 

Most often, chain suck is caused by worn drivetrain parts (chains, chain rings, etc). I highly doubt that chainline is your issue, but you should verify that you have the proper spacing. If you have shimano cranks, you should have 2 spacers on the drive side, and one on the non-drive side. (68mm shell width)

When you moved parts from from your switchblade, did you put a new chain on? If so, this can cause chain suck if your front rings are overly worn. Here is a good detailed article that talks about chain suck:

http://fagan.co.za/Bikes/Csuck/

Good luck!

--MXFanatic

 

I read somewhere that they don't recommend it...DW said so himself.....I don't know the exact thread but he was saying that the Mojo was designed around the rp23's spring rate so you're basically throwing that engineering out the door when you change the shock. However, there are guys that have done so. They'll probably chime in.

I've never had unusual chain suck issues with my Mojo, it only happens when the chain gets muddy, which is to be expected. In your case trying to swap a used drive train with nothing new, I'd try measuring the Switchblade ring offset to the center of the frame (be sure the frame and swing arm is aligned from head tube to rear drop outs), and use the spacers it requires to obtain the same ring offset from centerline.

When you do get a new drive train, use the specs according to Ibis. I have the '06 OEM FSA Mega Exo external BB with FSA crankset, and the BB has 2 spacers on the drive side, 1 spacer on the non-drive side.

Regarding travel, I had less than 4.5 inch travel for very rough trail riding use with two-foot jumps with the OEM RP23. I've heard that it does use full travel if doing 4 foot wheelie drops, like off a picnic table to the ground.

DW adamantly exclaimed in an earlier thread that the Mojo is optimum with the RP23. So I suppose DW designed the Mojo with RP23 to be optimized for extreme use.

I don't do huge jumps, and I don't mind the very minimal pedal bob with out the firmer platform type compression damping always there even when set "off" with the RP23. So I needed a different shock that could be tuned better for full travel use for trail riding. I tried a few shocks and have found 95% satisfaction with a rebuilt 2002 Vanilla RC coil. The only problem is the coil spring rate is not rising rate in compression resistance so it must be under sprung by a bout 50# using a little extra preload for 27% sag to gain best mid travel bump compliance, but it bottoms out a little too easily landing bigger jumps. It does work far better than the RP23 for my rough trail riding interests. If progressive coil springs were available for this shock it would be ideal.

 

And is it my imagination or is the switchblade alot plusher than the ibis? ill have to play around abit more with the rear shock setting it seems. ..maybe even put a ava can on?

New shocks certainly have a good amount of stiction in them. If you don't have a good 15-20 hours on one, it will certainly affect it's plushness. Give it some time.

 

I started getting bad chainsuck when in my granny gear about 6months into owning my mojo. But I had moved my XTR cranks and front cassette over from my previous bike.

Once I replaced the offending cassette that was worn out the problem has gone away.

I also don't use a RP23, instead I ride on a new Vanilla RC coil and love it.

 

Put one of these on there. I had to cut mine down a little. But after you get it to fit NO chainsuck issues. I would hate to see what the chain does to the nice carbon after a couple.

 

Put one of these on there. I had to cut mine down a little. But after you get it to fit NO chainsuck issues. I would hate to see what the chain does to the nice carbon after a couple.

That's an interesting guard. have you used one?

I still think it's important to correct any drivetrain problems first. But, it the case of real rough riding, enough to drop the chain, it could certainly help protect the frame. Or if you are riding in muddy conditions, where the chain could suck...

--MXFanatic

 

With the RP23, make sure you know where full travel is. It is about 8mm from the end of the shaft, not to the end.

Similar to Derby, I almost never get full travel unless dropping more than two feet, and hard. I am getting close though.

I tried the big can and it bottomed too often. After _DW chimed in against it, I removed it. I like the travel on the RP23 stock anyway.

I don't know how plush the Switchblade is, but the Mojo can be very plush. Play with the settings and break it in.

 

Have one on my mojo now. I had a chain come off the small ring once on an old bike and it tore up the chainstay. I found these online (the guard) and have never had a problem since. There was no way I was going to risk the carbon. You do have to do a little trimming on the guard to fit the mojo.

 

I've never had unusual chain suck issues with my Mojo, it only happens when the chain gets muddy, which is to be expected. In your case trying to swap a used drive train with nothing new, I'd try measuring the Switchblade ring offset to the center of the frame (be sure the frame and swing arm is aligned from head tube to rear drop outs), and use the spacers it requires to obtain the same ring offset from centerline.

When you do get a new drive train, use the specs according to Ibis. I have the '06 OEM FSA Mega Exo external BB with FSA crankset, and the BB has 2 spacers on the drive side, 1 spacer on the non-drive side.

Regarding travel, I had less than 4.5 inch travel for very rough trail riding use with two-foot jumps with the OEM RP23. I've heard that it does use full travel if doing 4 foot wheelie drops, like off a picnic table to the ground.

DW adamantly exclaimed in an earlier thread that the Mojo is optimum with the RP23. So I suppose DW designed the Mojo with RP23 to be optimized for extreme use.

I don't do huge jumps, and I don't mind the very minimal pedal bob with out the firmer platform type compression damping always there even when set "off" with the RP23. So I needed a different shock that could be tuned better for full travel use for trail riding. I tried a few shocks and have found 95% satisfaction with a rebuilt 2002 Vanilla RC coil. The only problem is the coil spring rate is not rising rate in compression resistance so it must be under sprung by a bout 50# using a little extra preload for 27% sag to gain best mid travel bump compliance, but it bottoms out a little too easily landing bigger jumps. It does work far better than the RP23 for my rough trail riding interests. If progressive coil springs were available for this shock it would be ideal.

I measured the travel with the full 2 in. stroke of the RP23 and got 4.9 in.(as accurately as possible). I don't know if there is a a special way to measure the DW bikes travel. I don't get the the full 2 in stroke on rough fast tecchnical DH runs(1/4 in. short).

 

thanks for all the comments ..
went to the bike shop today and put a new XTR chain on.. seems like the chain i was using from my swichblade is to short for this frame "hence the grinding noise i have when i use the large cluster ring and the granny in front... hopefully this new chain will stop that.. as for the chain suck... i think this could be because I use the finish line wet lube which just clunked everything up. will be switching back to my white lightning and see what that does this afternoon.
I will also play with rear shock pressures this weekend , what happened was i had the bike set up but kept hitting the peddles on things.. so i added some more pressure, I think i could of added to much.. will play again and see how it feels.. will be going to singletrack paradise this weekend so that should give me more than enough time to see if I am going to be happy with the bike... or trade it in for a Motolight...

 

Title goes here

I don't have any feedback for the chainsuck, but I can comment on the suspension.

First, your SB has a completely different leverage curve than the Mojo. The SB has an extremely high initial leverage which offers maximum small bump sensitivity at the expense of some efficiency. The rate than aggressively drops toward the end of the stroke for mechanical bottoming control. Very Moto-like. This gives a very active ride characteristic. The Mojo has a fairly flat initial rate with a slight drop at the end for mechanical bottoming control. This offers a suspension characteristic that's more neutral. It too can be made plush, but not too the level that you had on your SB. The Mojo, however is extremely efficient and balanced.

Second, would be the Propedal compression setting from the factory. I've attached a picture of how you can tell where yours is set. The picture attached shows position two. One is the softest, three is the firmest. Your shock is designated by which bar is highlighted white. Depending on your rider weight or style, the level of compression that your shock has might be too firm for your application. By softening the compression settings you'll achieve a more plush ride with more through travel, but will also slightly compromise how much firmness you get in the Propedal "on" position. It's a bit of a trade-off, but not as big of a concern with a dw-link bike due to the mechanical efficiency.

Third, is High Volume air cans. At 185lbs completely geared, I'm currently running both a High Volume air can on my RP23 as well as our new High Volume Air Piston kit in my Float 140RLC. I'm an experienced rider who rides light and doesn't mash into things generally (only when testing suspension components) but I do ride the "big lines". The fork psiton kit is a must for me, but I'm still trying to work out whether or not I'll stay with the big can in the back. What I will say, is that High Volume air cans are USER specific and NOT frame specific generally. It doesn't matter what the frame characteristic is, if a rider can't get full travel, they can't get full travel. This is where the HV can comes into play. Some frames are less friendly than others to HV cans, but at the end of the day it comes down to the user and his/her application. Now, if you're bending shock mount bolts......we need to talk. :thumbsup:

Darren

 

Compresion setting

thanks for the info Darren.
I looked at the bike and the compression setting is on the large bar "highest setting , I have a high volume sleeve lying around and maybe I will try is and see how it feels. since the high compression setting will stop me from blowing through the travel ?

Or i need to ask Ibis to send me a shock with a medium compression setting?

the other option would be to put the Ava on i have lying around... this might affect my peddling as it has no platform... suppose that is the fun of having a new bike.. finding the perfect setup.

Just a question regarding the high volume sleeve.. I believe there are 2.. a large and a larger one, lol , how do I see which one I have?

thanks

 

... What I will say, is that High Volume air cans are USER specific and NOT frame specific generally. It doesn't matter what the frame characteristic is, if a rider can't get full travel, they can't get full travel. This is where the HV can comes into play. Some frames are less friendly than others to HV cans, but at the end of the day it comes down to the user and his/her application. Now, if you're bending shock mount bolts......we need to talk. :thumbsup:

Darren

Darren, I've seen posts maybe in the Turner forum where riders have used extra oil (or added ski-base plastic material) inside the larger air cans which would reduce the air chamber volume to fine tune the bottom out and air-spring progression. Perhaps this could work well for those where the larger air can causes the suspension to bottom too easily.

 

My Title

Darren, I've seen posts maybe in the Turner forum where riders have used extra oil (or added ski-base plastic material) inside the larger air cans which would reduce the air chamber volume to fine tune the bottom out and air-spring progression. Perhaps this could work well for those where the larger air can causes the suspension to bottom too easily.

Th extra oil fill is a no go because it can migrate into the negative chamber through the air can transfer port and cause the shock to function incorrectly. Another possible problem is the shock losing stroke and eye to eye by the fluid even producing a mechanical stop. As for inserting objects in between the sleeves, again potential problems due to the fact that the material could shift and block the transfer port between the two sleeves. It's really more of a placebo effect I would guess and if mapped on the dyno would produce limited change.

Darren

 

I have occasional chain suck issues also mostly going through baby heads and similar areas. I have a month old xt drive train so I don't think anything is worn out. It has been dusty here though and it tends to stick to the chain rings a bit so that may be the problem. As far as travel I have had to run lower than recomended air presure for both the fork and shock. I weigh about 172 dressed and I have 140 in the rear and 50 in the fork. Things seem to feel fine in the rear but the front seems a bit loose in corners. I now get full travel though and the sag is correct 15mm/30mm

 

High compression RP23

I have a new mojo with the high compression RP23 and I do not like the shock's performance at all..

I'm a little bit unhappy with Mr. DW for stating in another thread that the RP23 is ideal for the mojo, given that 1. the DW link is claimed to work optimally with very little compression damping and 2. the stock RP23 is way overdamped on compression.

Finally, it frustrates me that the RP23 is not user serviceable to correct this. For me, it is a real problem.

It is good news for our friends at Push, though. They'll be getting my business.

 

Count Zero , intresting post... I wonder if the guys from ibis can comment on this...i am sure there is a reason we have got the high compression setting on the bike, i dont think they would sell the bike short by not supplying the correct customized shock...
"unless it was all they had"

 

Second, would be the Propedal compression setting from the factory. I've attached a picture of how you can tell where yours is set. The picture attached shows position two. One is the softest, three is the firmest. Your shock is designated by which bar is highlighted white. Depending on your rider weight or style, the level of compression that your shock has might be too firm for your application. By softening the compression settings you'll achieve a more plush ride with more through travel, but will also slightly compromise how much firmness you get in the Propedal "on" position. It's a bit of a trade-off, but not as big of a concern with a dw-link bike due to the mechanical efficiency.

Third, is High Volume air cans. At 185lbs completely geared, I'm currently running both a High Volume air can on my RP23 as well as our new High Volume Air Piston kit in my Float 140RLC. I'm an experienced rider who rides light and doesn't mash into things generally (only when testing suspension components) but I do ride the "big lines". The fork psiton kit is a must for me, but I'm still trying to work out whether or not I'll stay with the big can in the back. What I will say, is that High Volume air cans are USER specific and NOT frame specific generally. It doesn't matter what the frame characteristic is, if a rider can't get full travel, they can't get full travel. This is where the HV can comes into play. Some frames are less friendly than others to HV cans, but at the end of the day it comes down to the user and his/her application. Now, if you're bending shock mount bolts......we need to talk. :thumbsup:

Darren

A couple of questions:

Are those compression settings pictured only available on the 08' RP23 ? Has anyone tried the softest setting and with what outcome? Is there a way to make the same adjustments on the 07' ?

Darren, I thought I read that you had already tuned your RP23. I guess you are still playing with it. It doesn't sound like it's been "PUSHed" beyond changing the can. Is that right?

Thanks.

 

It is good news for our friends at Push, though. They'll be getting my business.

We're just here to help! :thumbsup:

Count Zero , intresting post... I wonder if the guys from ibis can comment on this...i am sure there is a reason we have got the high compression setting on the bike, i dont think they would sell the bike short by not supplying the correct customized shock...
"unless it was all they had"

I can't comment for IBIS, but I can comment that at the OEM level it's very difficult for a manufacturer to come up with settings that please every single rider when it comes to suspension.

Are those compression settings pictured only available on the 08' RP23 ? Has anyone tried the softest setting and with what outcome? Is there a way to make the same adjustments on the 07' ?

Darren, I thought I read that you had already tuned your RP23. I guess you are still playing with it. It doesn't sound like it's been "PUSHed" beyond changing the can. Is that right?

They started using this marking system in '07. Outside of the air valve position, the '07 and '08 shocks are the same. We can re-tune your shock to get whatever result you're looking for whether it's firmer or softer than your stock setup with our Factory Tuning System. As for my shock, I rode it stock, then with our consumer version Factory Tuning System, and now it has a Division-Three tune (our development dept) which uses an entirely differnet system. As the director of development at PUSH, I'm constantly trying new prototypes....yes, my job is lame.

Darren

 

two bars VS three

Hello from Ibis,

For anyone who's interested, we will trade a medium compression damped RP23 for a high compression damped one. Just email us: aaron@ibiscycles.com, or send your shock in with a note including your return address.

The pro pedal is less effective, but we think it is a good compromise overall.

Cheers!

Hans

 

There is a hidden downside to any linkage system that does not require massive compression damping to eliminate pedaling bob: That is simply that the shock manufacturers build for the vast majority which require these other, less desirable damping characteristics.

For Ibis, it's just not practical to customize every shock sold such that it works optimally with the DW linkage.

I admire companies like Maverick and (grudgingly) Specialized who were so disappointed in the what is widely available that they made their own. However, almost everyone I meet holds it against them for being "non standard".

Oh well, god bless Push for bringing custom suspension tuning to the masses.

 

Don't count Ibis out.

There is a hidden downside to any linkage system that does not require massive compression damping to eliminate pedaling bob: That is simply that the shock manufacturers build for the vast majority which require these other, less desirable damping characteristics.

For Ibis, it's just not practical to customize every shock sold such that it works optimally with the DW linkage.

I admire companies like Maverick and (grudgingly) Specialized who were so disappointed in the what is widely available that they made their own. However, almost everyone I meet holds it against them for being "non standard".

Oh well, god bless Push for bringing custom suspension tuning to the masses.

I know you are making practical comments and not dissing Ibis, but did you check out Hans' offer below? Offering to swap out shocks for lower compression units doesn't sound practical at all, but hugely customer friendly. I say bless Ibis for "non standard" customer service. Over and over, they excel.

 

I know you are making practical comments and not dissing Ibis, but did you check out Hans' offer below? Offering to swap out shocks for lower compression units doesn't sound practical at all, but hugely customer friendly. I say bless Ibis for "non standard" customer service. Over and over, they excel.

They are f'ing fabulous, and deserve every bit of success they have earned since Ibis' rebirth.

I searched my heart in the past couple of days, and decided to go to Push for modification of my damper. I realized that I probably would have done it anyway, if only out of curiosity.

 

High volume cans

Third, is High Volume air cans. At 185lbs completely geared, I'm currently running both a High Volume air can on my RP23 as well as our new High Volume Air Piston kit in my Float 140RLC. I'm an experienced rider who rides light and doesn't mash into things generally (only when testing suspension components) but I do ride the "big lines". The fork psiton kit is a must for me, but I'm still trying to work out whether or not I'll stay with the big can in the back.

Just to second the opinion of the pros: At 150 pounds I go back and forth with the High Volume Rp3 vs standard, it is hard to decide which one I like best. But my homemade High Volume Air Piston Kit is a must. Without my homemade modifications (I cut of the rod in the LL about 1cm to increase the volume of the air chamber , and installed a soft spring in the RL) the Float was really a 3.9" fork ... now it works fine and there is really no going question about going back to the original