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Ideal coaster brake hub for a 29" Klunker build?

4.5K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  mack_turtle  
#1 ·
I Klunk downhill on a 2015 Transition (yes, actual chairlift assisted, downhill gravity riding).

The Transition Klunker shipped with a KT Hi-Stop steel shell hub which has held up pretty well.

I talked to Sturmey-Archer & they advised against using their SC1 hubs off-road.

Truth is, I don't think a coaster brake hub exists that is "intended" for offroad use.

I want to migrate to a 29" frame & wheelset. Can anyone suggest a coaster brake hub that is suitable/ideal for a new 29" coaster brake klunker build?

Thanks!

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Kurrent Klunker build: 2015 Transition Clunker frameset w Stardust/Midnight paint. Stock wheelset & Saddle & Handlebar. WTB Ranger 26x2.8 Tires, Cane Creek 40 Headset, Thomson Seatpost, Thomson Stem, Raceface NextSL Crankset & BB, Raceface Cinch Chainring 36t, 15t Cog, VT Platform Pedals.
 
#4 ·
Cool!

Will most likely go with the Shimano CB-E110 & soup it up myself.. Swapping in a cro-mo axle and rebuilding with free-ball bearings will be easy peasy & I always run high-temp moly grease anyway.

I also like the idea of adding a heat sink. I'm picturing copper heat pipe radiators like a high end CPU cooler... something like a modified version of this....
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:LOL:(y)

Thanks for the link!
 
#5 ·
Cool!

Will most likely go with the Shimano CB-E110 & soup it up myself.. Swapping in a cro-mo axle and rebuilding with free-ball bearings will be easy peasy & I always run high-temp moly grease anyway.

I also like the idea of adding a heat sink. I'm picturing copper heat pipe radiators like a high end CPU cooler... something like a modified version of this....
Image


:LOL:(y)

Thanks for the link!
He also sells just the heat sink by itself if you want to go the easy route. Coaster Cooler — MONē
 
#6 ·
Back in the day, I rode a Nakai freecoaster hub on my BMX bike. It had a heavy steel shell and oversized lock nuts that made it durable. What helped a lot,
more, though, was removing the metal bearing cages and replacing them with loose bearings. If I remember correctly, the appropriate number of bearings ended up being double the number of bearings in the cages minus one.

Assembly the guts of the hub with lots of grease. Make sure the "locked" parts of the hub are cranked down tight against one another so nothing somes loose while riding.

You can also adjust the amount of "slack" in the hub by adding or removing spacers behind the clutch. I like the fastest engagement possible on a freewheeling mtb, but a bit more slack is nice to have on a coaster brake. You don't want your brake to immediately engage when you stop pedaling and need to backpedal a few degrees to level off your feet.