norcalbike: Thanks for the info. Did you mess with any spacers at all? I'll take the air out and start over 30 PSI at a time till I get 14mm of sag and then play with all the settings.

 

I haven’t fussed with spacers since I’m using full travel but not bottoming out hard. I’m about 185 with gear at the moment for reference.

 

I’ve had my V2 since they 1st came out a few years ago. Back then the bike spec was around the OG fox 36 160mm. I’m currently looking to upgrade to a 38 160, but realized 38 has a longer AC than the original 36 by about 8mm (2 or 3 more than the new 36). Is it safe to say this will put the 64.9 HA on the Ripmo closer to 64.5 w the added AC length? Just asking as I’m debating 160 vs 170mm and don’t want to go too slack.


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Anyone have a Yoshimura stem or pedals on there Ripmo? I recently just got a 2022 ripmo GX build and I'm looking to possibly put one of their stems in pedals on the bike. really just curious about quality and such seems to be very good and I like the looks of them. Figured I would check on here to see if anyone has actual experience with the product.

Love the bike, Went from my 2018 Kona process 153 CR which was 27.5 wheels and I love that by this Ripmo is next level!

 

Ist there a difference between the Trail Tuned Fox 36 Fork come with the Ibis Ripmo V2 and a Aftermarket Fox Factory 36 in the internals Like the shiming ore other parts?
I know that the X2 ist Trail Tuned for the Ripmo, but I did not know If there ist also the Fork Trail Tuned.


Thanks Woolf

 

Late to the party with "modern" geometry because I couldn't justify the invesment. For the past 3,5 years I've been riding Hightower LT which I loved. I'm 176cm and so happy I went with large, I cannot imagine riding medium, because large feels so compact for me with 33 stem. I will try to put 40mm stem. Bike feels a bit "smaller" than large HTLT which was a big surprise. It was plushier on bigger hits but not so on small bumps. In general the rear suspension with recomender by ibis settings for x2 feels a lot like htlt with topaz. Need to play with the settings. It is fun on flat twisted trails, to my surprise, pedalls a bit better than htlt, corners better as well. But the bottom line after couple of rides: it was not a game changer if you tight on the budged. Old htlt was a great bike for sure but I like my new Ripmo a bit more now.

 

I did. Stock, it weighed almost 35 lbs with the alloy stock wheels and XT build I built a new Wheelset and swapped to the FOX 36 (for now..a few rides to test out at 160mm). Now it is apparently 31.8 lbs. I need to ride it (had Covid for two darn weeks) and make sure I get all the settings right per the site, and then tinker. I do find that almost every time, the shock PSI recommendations are too high by 10-15 PSI for my weight.

 

Yeah I don't particularly understand the 38 as the choice on that bike..
Some things you might try in regards to it feeling harsh and sagging: Keep your HSC all the way open to begin with which should help make things smoother, add enough LSC to keep it feeling less "saggy" when pedaling but not so much that small bumps feel harsh. If you notice their recommendations for rebound are fairly light/open....more so than what would be typical from Fox's recommendations...so try your rebound on the lighter side of the recommendations. This advice somewhat applies to all suspension when people say it is harsh. Usually running things more open to begin with...then adding more damping. And if this is a newer bike...check your sag about once a week the first month. Sometimes I think I'm at a certain sag...then I remeasure and find I have to little or much. Then eventually after things feel good I play around with small pressure changes and volume spacers. They usually don't put a lot of spacers in an OEM shock, which is why I wouldn't worry about that unless you're incredibly light.

 

Thanks much. I’ll try this.

 

Damn my 38/X2 SLX build is like 32lbs sans pedals with a double down tire in back.

 

Well, that seems weird. I have a Dissector and DHRII combo. Carbon 490 gra 32x32 rims, FOX 36, and XT groups. Maybe my Rocket saddle is a beast of a steel one. I actually think that may be an extra 200 grams but damn 😀

 

My medium is XT build, alloy rims, 2.5 DHF/2.5 Aggressor and fox 36. Weighed on two different scales and both times 31.5lbs with plastic pedals. Sounds like there's more than the advertised half pound difference between 36 and 38?

 

Sounds like there's more than the advertised half pound difference between 36 and 38?

To me it isn't about the weight but how forks like that change a bike's handling characteristics. I don't care if something weighs a pound more if it makes the bike better/faster for my purposes. You can make something lighter and it not be better. Likewise you can make something burlier and it not be better. And what is "better" is of course up to the rider.

 

Hey there everyone,

I just picked up a new 2022 Ripmo V2 SLX with the chunky Fox 38 + Float X2 last week. As I wait for my ridewrap to arrive, I've been riding it around some paved areas/hills by my house - and it definitely fits well (coming from a Ripley V2 LS). However, my only concern as I'm still in the return window at Sports Basement - is that it may be a bit overkill for me. I'm an Intermediate MTB rider, coming from years of track + gravel riding. I've had my V2 Ripley just about a year, sold it to a friend and I'm ready to move into something with a little more current geo. I rented a Ripmo V1 (Large, which is an up size from Medium I normally ride but I'm admittedly right between sizes at ~174cm height) and I really enjoyed how confident I felt on it - with minimal drawback on climbs from my Ripley.

I ride in the Bay Area CA - mostly lunch rides during the week at and some weekend adventures 1-2 times a month around Tamarancho, Soquel Demo, Rockville, JMP, etc. My goal is to keep my cardio/endurance as I do enjoy climbing and long rides in the saddle - but I want a more confident feel on downhills. I'd like to go to Northstar with friends by the end of the season. I weigh ~200 lbs kitted up, so the 38 up front could make sense with proper tuning. I'll have to mess with the X2, feels weird without a full lockout but I assume it's mega efficient on real trails with the DW link out back.

I've read through numerous Fox 38 threads and it seems like a love/hate with no grey area. Seems like it takes a lot of trial/error tuning to get it dialed in. That said - does anyone regret going with the Fox 38 + X2 combo on the new 2022 Ripmos? If you sold the 38 and swapped with a 36 - why did you do it? Did you also swap out the X2?

Thanks in advance! I'm still in the return window - although selling the 38 and picking up a 36 may actually be easier than dealing with a return and building up a frame or finding a 2021 in good shape. (no warranty).

 

Hey there everyone,

I just picked up a new 2022 Ripmo V2 SLX with the chunky Fox 38 + Float X2 last week. As I wait for my ridewrap to arrive, I've been riding it around some paved areas/hills by my house - and it definitely fits well (coming from a Ripley V2 LS). However, my only concern as I'm still in the return window at Sports Basement - is that it may be a bit overkill for me. I'm an Intermediate MTB rider, coming from years of track + gravel riding. I've had my V2 Ripley just about a year, sold it to a friend and I'm ready to move into something with a little more current geo. I rented a Ripmo V1 (Large, which is an up size from Medium I normally ride but I'm admittedly right between sizes at ~174cm height) and I really enjoyed how confident I felt on it - with minimal drawback on climbs from my Ripley.

I ride in the Bay Area CA - mostly lunch rides during the week at and some weekend adventures 1-2 times a month around Tamarancho, Soquel Demo, Rockville, JMP, etc. My goal is to keep my cardio/endurance as I do enjoy climbing and long rides in the saddle - but I want a more confident feel on downhills. I'd like to go to Northstar with friends by the end of the season. I weigh ~200 lbs kitted up, so the 38 up front could make sense with proper tuning. I'll have to mess with the X2, feels weird without a full lockout but I assume it's mega efficient on real trails with the DW link out back.

I've read through numerous Fox 38 threads and it seems like a love/hate with no grey area. Seems like it takes a lot of trial/error tuning to get it dialed in. That said - does anyone regret going with the Fox 38 + X2 combo on the new 2022 Ripmos? If you sold the 38 and swapped with a 36 - why did you do it? Did you also swap out the X2?

Thanks in advance! I'm still in the return window - although selling the 38 and picking up a 36 may actually be easier than dealing with a return and building up a frame or finding a 2021 in good shape. (no warranty).

You definitely wouldn’t want a Ripley at Northstar. There’s plenty of terrain that justifies a Ripmo in the Bay Area and surrounding areas like central coast, sierras, Santa Cruz. I’d stick with it. If you’re really worried about it, you could drop a good amount of weight going to a 36 and float X. Maybe a pound? Could also lose a lot of weight with wheels and tires. I kept the 38 and X2. My SLX Ripmo has been as light as 31 and as heavy as 35 depending mostly on wheels and tires.

 

@dom_quattro If my math is right you're 5'8"? I think you can make any mid travel bike good for all around use with the right set up. And dw link bikes are known for their good pedaling character. I won't go down the rabbit hole of making an aggressive bike more trail friendly, but I will say make sure you're happy with the fit of the frame as that's the most important thing in the long run. You can experiment with suspension, tires, stems, wheels, granola bars, but you can't change the frame.

 

You definitely nailed it here. Fit of the frame and understanding the geo & intention of the bike without trying to sway it too far another direction makes sense. This is my first time shopping for a high end bike that's new/2020+ so I'm just trying to make sure I do it right. Messing with the suspension & tires alone can definitely tame the Ripmo a bit for less demanding trails and riding if I see fit.

You definitely wouldn’t want a Ripley at Northstar. There’s plenty of terrain that justifies a Ripmo in the Bay Area and surrounding areas like central coast, sierras, Santa Cruz. I’d stick with it. If you’re really worried about it, you could drop a good amount of weight going to a 36 and float X. Maybe a pound? Could also lose a lot of weight with wheels and tires. I kept the 38 and X2. My SLX Ripmo has been as light as 31 and as heavy as 35 depending mostly on wheels and tires.

Agree on Ripley at Northstar being less than ideal. I'm still mostly on board with the Ripmo, I think the time waiting for the ridewrap install has been eating at my soul. Most reviews I've watched (and the Ripmo V1 I rented) were with Fox 36 builds, so I guess I'm just on the fence there. As you said - worst case is I try out the Fox 38 and if after some tuning / volume spacer tweaks I don't love it, I can likely sell it to get a Fox 36 without issue. The SLX seems like a great build for the price - just throwing on an XT shifter for the double up shift is all I can think of changing. I'm already shopping carbon wheels (since I had them on my Ripley) to replace the Blackbirds on the Ripmo. Between that and some new tires I think I just need to go put some (s)miles on the thing and ride it out. I was cross shopping Switchblades & SB130s to the Ripmo - and a couple nice 2020/2021s popped up locally for great deals so I've just been distracted hahaha.

 

I was kind of same boat. I ride the full spectrum of trails, from rolling, pedally fireroads to rutted, bumpy black diamonds. A few trips to chair lifted bike parks too. I'd say the Ripley would be my preferred choice for 50% of the trails I ride, but the other 50% I definitely prefer the Ripmo. No perfect solution. I think what it comes down to is what do you prioritize. For me, it was more important to be comfortable on the rough stuff than to maximize fun on the more XC rides.

As you already know though, the Ripmo isn't too far skewed in one direction. Like you my rides are generally 1-2 hrs "lunch rides" so all day comfort wasn't high on priority list. A different set of tires will make a huge difference too. The Assagais were definitely overkill for me. I have 36 though, so I can't tell you how 38 compares.

Not to complicate matters further, if you decide if Ripmo is just a little too much bike, one shop told me the SB130 sits in between the Ripmo and Ripley. I think the Ripley AF would also be an option for someone looking for more aggressive Ripley but not quite Ripmo.

 

Thanks for your insights! Just to be clear - I had the Ripley before and I'm 100% sold on a more mid travel all-mountain bike (Ripmo, Hightower, SB130, Switchblade). However the fact 2022 Ripmos are coming with Fox 38 + Float X2 kinda threw a wrench in my research since most reviews from the last couple years are with DPX2 + Fox 36 Ripmo models. As mentioned I'm a heavier rider (~200lbs kitted) so an extra half pound on the 38 when I'm not trying to crush KOMs/events shouldn't be a big issue. I think the Float X2 may also be interesting since there's no true lockout anymore. I may be overthinking a bit, having a brand new Ripmo is DOPE for the warranty and I love the SLX drivetrain so far + added XT shifter. If I can't dial in the Fox 38 / Float X after a couple months I should be able to easily sell them and buy a Fox 36 + DPX2.

I was also eyeing SB130s (and Lunch Ride) and they're absolutely gorgeous. My buddy has a SB140 and loves it - but I haven't ridden a Yeti 29er before and demos are are to get nowadays. In the small chance I return the Ripmo to find something that already has Fox 36 + DPX2 - the SB130 is on my short list.

 

To me the biggest difference really is just flattish terrain. The Ripley will keep its momentum better where as the Ripmo is more alive with slope. That and I feel Ripley encourages stand up pedaling more. The Ripmo feels more happy to sit and spin, but its a damn good sit and spinner.

 

Yeah, the SB130 sits between them but the Ripmo is a pretty good climber too. I think the SB130 and Ripmo pedal similarly. I actually prefer the Ripmo over the Ripley on most trails I ride. It feels better in the chunkier stuff- slow or fast. The Ripley feels great on smoother trails and pedals really well. If climbing a 1,000 ft climb (4 miles) the Ripmo seems to be a minute or slow slower than the Ripley for me. That may be the 2ish extra lbs it weighs and as soon as I am normal (I had Covid) I will do some better tests on the same climb at similar heart rate since I don't have power meters on the mountain bikes. The Yeti is a great bike for around here and I'd happily ride it, I will say this- the Ripmo does not really feel like a plush 147mm bike to me. It is firmer and feels more like a 135-140mm bike to me and I like that. The Yeti also feels firmer while I find Santa Cruz bikes feel more plush.

 

Anyone come here from Santa Cruz high tower anyone thinking about going to the Santa Cruz high tower V3?


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Anyone come here from Santa Cruz high tower anyone thinking about going to the Santa Cruz high tower V3?

I came off a Hightower to a v2 Rimpo. Loved the Hightower, had the blue one. But I had to lighten it up quite a bit for it to sort of act like the Ripmo v2 did. Now, I recently sold my star destroyer grey Ripmo and was actually looking for an SB150 and they were hard to find in T2, T3. Hightower came out and guess what? Went on to another Ripmo bug zapper blue and its great. I've ridden the several Yeti's and Revels and some others and I just can't find something that beats the way the Ripmo feels.

What I don't like about the Hightower is they still don't make that shock cavity to fit a coil. Plus the front shock kept at 150mm? I run a 170mm Zeb on my Ripmo and it performs well like this. What I found on my old Hightower was if the bike is in the 31-32lbs range, it's a sort of a dull feeling bike. While I personally wouldn't go to a Hightower at the moment, I'm sure you wouldn't be disappointed. SC makes some great stuff in their fit, and finish and their warranty is amazing. I know, I've used it and no issue, new frame came in 3 days, all I had to do was make a call, send some pics and done deal.

What I like about the Rimpo? I love DW Link and geo has the bike feeling lively and playful and even makes climbing fun. I also like that Ibis sells their bikes at their top carbon offerings. What I mean is, many other companies (Santa Cruz), they sell two carbon frame offerings: the heavier carbon frame for price savings. Then they sell the "high end" carbon for weight savings at a higher price. Ibis doesn't do that. What you get is their high end carbon: settled... I like that the Ripmo can be whatever you want it to be. Enduro brawler, put a coil on it and a 170mm fork, all within factory warranty. You want a more playful all-mountain or trail bike, put an air shock from the X2 or dpx2 or a topaz and it will change its character.

As I hear talk about a Ripmo v3 to be on the horizon soon, I'm hard pressed to see how they can improve on it. Guess we'll all have to wait and see.

 

If anyone wants a 38 to match their Ripmo...my ad is on PB. New 160mm Ripmo take off.

 

Did you go to a Fox 36 or?

 

I did and took the 38 off. Thinking I'll keep it for another bike but I have one too. Someone said it feels like a coil fork. I am not sure but it is plush and stiff. you can plow through stuff without worry. With the 36, I have to use the usual finesse. I like that though. Of course, I say that till I get to Sedona.

 

If a brand new 36- Did you open her up and get the 10x too much grease off the air-spring? I had my fork serviced yesterday and there was a pile of it in there (known to be an issue). My suspension guy is guaranteeing it will feel a ton better now

 

Trying to get ripmo af but shops dont have built size M and L. Im 5’9 with 32 inseam with shoes on. Not sure which size will be best for me. I hope someone can help me with sizing. Thanks

 

I think medium. You can call my shop if you want. He sizes people often and will know. Message me if interested.

 

You’re maybe on the cusp and can make either size work. Most will size down on slacker bikes unless you have wide open trails and prefer a slightly roomy cockpit (I do).

 

Yes roomy cockpit is what i prefer. A shop told me that if i go L shorten the stem around 33-40mm and if i go M do 50-60mm stem so i guess im really standing in cusp sizing.

 

Good point- I did not. I'll open it up soon and check.

 

ass-guys - people love em for all out grip in front. not so much rear. DHR2 are my fave rear but also my fave front these days. Close second is DHF. I don't need the ass-guy grip it seems.

Lots of new stuff from other mfgs coming out id be interested in as well

 

yea, i was told running ass-guy F/R is very grippy. I think ill have to stick with dhr2 or maybe try the dissector.

Im not too familiar with other mfgs offerings. Which do you think come close to maxxis ass-guy + dhr2?

 

Coming back to the radical difference in my Topaz setup to feel right on the V2 versus on my previous AF.

its been documented well that for lighter riders - and even heavier depending on feel - removing the Neg spring volume spacer and maybe even 1 of he 2 pos spacers has worked well. On my AF this was the secret sauce and never once did I think about a different shock.

fast forward and I;ve brought it up before, but that setup is a complete disaster on my V2 and the Topaz that came with it. So I've been playing around a bit. Here's current findings in case anyone wants to weigh in - (um insert Ozibis, Tanman and sfr4dr and anyone else).

• On my v2 I went back to factory setup - 1 neg, 2 pos. Harsh - no matter the sag or pressure.
• recent attempts - remove 1 pos. (w 1 neg still installed) Hmmm feels vaguely AF familiar.
• remove neg spacer again - crap ass ride
• reinstall neg(and 1 pos still installed) - hmmm back to vaguely familiar - BUT can't come close to full travel even on huk to flat (I have a feature that I would get to 54mm or bottom on AF regular)
• remove final pos spacer to get a more linear spring rate (keeping 1 neg installed) - rode well - not even close to full travel again but sag was less and air pressure higher which I expected due to more air volume in pos chamber...
• will try with lower air pressure and deeper sag to see how she rides and how much travel I can use

conclusion - either the shock is NOT the ibis tune, has a defect or there is something goin on w the V2 rear end and linkages Im not aware of or should be. Candidly - when I was playing w an X2 - I couldn't find a bottom out situation when running waaaaaayyyyy low air pressure as well.

keen on any IPA fueled thoughts or responses... cuz the only topaz setup that actually feels good is complete opposite of AF setup that many of us had success with.

 

First thing to check would be that you rear end cycles smoothly with minimal resistance through its full travel without the shock installed.
If that’s ok then there has to be something going on with the damper. The Topaz I had was not a harsh shock in fact I found it more on the under damped side than over damped. Everything you are describing seems counterintuitive and opposite to what I found when I was running the Topaz. Not being able to bottom a Topaz is unusual from my experience. I used to have to soak landings a bit to avoid bottoming out. If I stomped the same landing it would bottom out with a clunk. Something isn’t adding up in my mind can’t really put my finger on what though. To be honest I’ve kind of stopped thinking my way around the Topaz since I moved on. I know it’s $ but if you can’t find an answer without spending money on it I would put that money towards something else. It’s a good little shock when it’s working right but there’s MUCH better performance to be had elsewhere. I know that doesn’t fix your current issue but I personally wouldn’t spend anything on getting it sorted.
Sorry I couldn’t give more magic sauce on this one.

 

I'm taking the spacer out of my X2. I need a slightly softer feel on the DH and really rocky sections. That may be the ticket, without lowering the PSI. It feels pretty good but still not getting 15mm-20mm of travel on the fast/rough downhills.

 

just took out the spacer in mine - im a lighter rider - ill give er a run later on a regular segment here and see what I think. I do know the rather large bottom out bumper makes contact well before bottom or max travel - so that likely keeps at least a few mm in travel off the table...

 

e

you can reach the very end if you really clang a big hit. Done it a few times