Can any New England riders weigh in on how this bike works on the tight/technical/twisty New England trails? I know it has been well received out West with bigger/flowier trails but have not heard enough from the East coast to convince me. I typically ride local trails with a half dozen downhill days a year thrown in at Thunder/Killington. I am looking for a one bike quiver that won't be a pig to ride on the local stuff but can handle occasional bigger terrain. I am about 200# and don't think the Ripley would cut it. I am coming off a 27.5 Trance (150F/140R), so I am already used to long-ish travel trail bike. The Ripmo has a 55mm longer wheelbase than my Trance, just don't want to buy a tank that I won't enjoy as a daily driver.

 

I'm not a New England rider, but I happened to enjoy this video last night of a Ripmo V2 on some excellent NE trails. Land of a thousand rock rolls (and they call it Vietnam)?? 50 STATE SHRED: MASSACHUSETTS

 

I have the Fox DHX2 with a cane creek progressive coil that I had in my yeti SB 130 and I moved it to the ripmo and I am really happy with this shock. One of my friends have a Ripmo V1 and he runs the EXT shock because this shock is less progressive that any other shock. My friend is also really happy with his Ripmo and EXT shock. I think any coil shock would be good in the ripmo if your are a 190# or bigger. I am 210# my friend is 230#.

 

What model year fox is your friend running on his Ripmo? I was told the DHX2 wouldn't fit the frame.

 

I also have felt my V2's rear get hung up or "hitchy". I have found it only happens when running to much sag. Remember Ibis measures sag at the rear tire so if you are setting up using shock stroke you are most likely running more then recommended.

 

I know that's what they say in the set up guide but that means then at full rear wheel travel then you would be only using 50.9mm of shock shaft travel on a 55mm travel shock so you would never feel the shock bottom out. Either that or when the shock bottoms out which it can and does then the bike has more than 147mm travel.
So based on that theory to bottom out the 55mm travel shock the rear wheel has to travel 159mm in round figures.

 

What does setting sag via rear wheel travel as opposed to via shock travel mean in practical terms and how is it measured? Percentage of vertical axle travel? Percentage of axle travel against the total axle path? How do you measure it?

If the target is a specific amount of travel at the wheel, that still should translate to a specific amount of shock travel, whether in percent or in millimeters (I realize since the leverage ratio is not linear that shock % and wheel travel % won't necessarily match). The difference is that it seems a whole lot easier to measure via the shock oring. So what is being gained?

I guess you could put the bike on a workstand with the rear wheel touching the floor, then lift the rear wheel with no air in the shock until it is 30% of its way to full travel, and then note the o-ring position. But why wouldn't ibis just specify this oring position to begin with? Seems convoluted.

In my opinion having a process where you are measuring sag consistently so that you can make adjustments and understand the results is more important than the reference point itself because that's what makes your tuning changes valid.

Surprised by the comment regarding having too much sag causing hitching. I don't agree that high sag on its own would cause this. It sounds more like rebound too slow coupled with the increased sag. That is indeed not a great combo.

I have made so many changes and I always end up back with fast rebound, higher sag, firmer compression.

I guess all that can be said is keep an open mind and experiment and whatever sag measurement procedure you use, stick to it and be consistent.

 

For sure. Ibis knows the kinematics of these frames, puts a sag number based on the shock in their manual, then I would never think to go looking to measure by the rear wheel. I would assume they've already done this. Rear wheel is a moto method of measuring sag, not with mtbs in the decades I've been riding and working in shops as a mechanic (ages ago). Personally, I put in the recommended pressure then tune by feel from there.

 

I tried a new product and I'm super impressed with it so far. It's Molten Speed Wax. I wanted something to lube the chain that didn't get gunky build up and have dirt stick to it and would keep the drivetrain clean. I also didn't want to have to stuff around with a dry lube and a wet lube I just wanted something I could use in any condition at any time. Just got back from a sloshy muddy ride and simply hosed the bike off and I'm so happy with the result. I can rub my fingers down the chain and they stay clean. Nothing stuck to it. It was WAY quieter during the whole ride and the wax is still on there. Last wet ride I did all I could hear was the constant crunching and grinding sound of mud going through my lovely new X01 drivetrain. It was doing my head in. Not this time. It's exactly what I've been looking for and does exactly what I wanted it to do. Here is a picture after the ride with nothing more than a hose off. I haven't cleaned or touched the chain in any way or cassette in any way. I'm wrapped.

 

I had a look on their website and man, that's an involved process for chain lube. I can only imagine what my wife would say if she caught me soaking my chain in our slow cooker full of wax.

I just use squirt wax lube. It does almost the same thing but it applies normally. Probably doesn't last as long but way less fuss. Drivetrain is equally clean and my hands don't get greasy....neither does my slow cooker

 

I’ve been waxing my chain for a couple years and it’s outstanding. That said I never ride in the wet, but when I do, or when I wash the bike, I make sure to dry the chain right away, and usually wax it again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Picking up my new IBIS Ripmo V2 destroyer grey xl with full XT build on monday. Seems easier to find in stock xl frame but to walk in abs find xt parts for complete build... I’m stoked!

 

For those that have tried the v2 with the dpx2 and x2.

What's the pros and cons of each shock?

Currently I have the x2 on the bike but I do have a dpx2 from a sb130 lr that I could install on the v2

Im looking to make the bike a little more playful and poppy

 

Possible cable rattle solution
I've been trying a couple of things in the garage today and I think I may have found a dead easy solution to the cable rattle in the V2 frame. Firstly I'm running right front brake, the right way, not left front like apparently a lot of you yanks do. I will never understand that because motorbikes are pretty much standardised around the world I don't understand why MTB would have it opposite. If I was to go from riding my Moto to the MTB I recon it would be a stack waiting to happen on the MTB. Anyway that's another topic.
The reason I mentioned it is that there is different sized holes in the frame for the different diameter cables. So my rear brake is running through the larger port in the left hand side of the frame, my shifter cable is running on the left as well and the dropper cable on the right.
So the dropper is in a large port with a small diameter cable the shifter is in a small port with a small diameter cable and the rear brake is a large diameter cable in a large port. I got some 6mm plastic air hose that is used on things like air lockers in 4WD's and other air operated solenoids etc. You can get this with 2 slightly different wall thicknesses in the 6mm. I cut a 1 inch length piece and split it longways with a Stanley knife and put it over the cables then fed it down into the ports with a little left hanging out for removal if I need to. The thinner walled one works well on the brake line in the large port. The thicker walled one works on the dropper cable in the large port but the small diameter cable in the small port was too tight to get the plastic hose in. I found that one didn't rattle as much anyway. I just put a small cable tie to hold it and the crossed over brake line in front of the steering head together and that kept it a lot more still.
I'm yet to do any real riding on the bike since I've done this, which was only an hour ago, but so far the cables are very locked in and much quieter. I will still have to see if it is a long term solution after some riding but I'm pretty hopeful at this stage. It also looks very tidy Fingers crossed

 

So I rode the bike on properly rough trails today and the cable rattle is about 75% better. It’s not gone totally but it’s at least tolerable. The remaining rattle I think is coming from the shifter cable which is the one I hadn’t done because it was too tight for the air line. I will work something out with it in the near future but so far the mod to the other two cables seems to have worked pretty well. One solution to the shifter cable issue could AXS but not just yet. I will consider it if and when my derailleur needs replacing.

 

basically the leverage curve/ratio isn't linear. the shock uses less shaft travel for each mm of wheel travel at the beginning of the travel than it does at the end. therefore, you want to undershoot the shaft travel mark you're using to set sag. but besides all that, sag is just a starting point anyway. you want to tweak it for what feels good for your riding style weight and trails.

look at this graph:

 

Too many over think this. You hit the simple point, set the sag and tweak. I always set per the manufacturers specs, ride a few days and then adjust.

 

I heard back from Ibis today. 30% of rear wheel travel is 15mm shock shaft travel.

 

could try this.

Linkage: Suspension Bike Simulation and Design Software - Introduction

Linkage bike suspension simulation and design software. Analysis of two wheel suspension vehicles. Professional, Personal and Demo versions. Online bike model library.

www.bikechecker.com

 

I had a look but I'm on Apple and it wouldn't work. Thanks anyway though.

 

Just in case anyone is interested. It was a mega head f#ck working this out. It's not as accurate as what a computer printed graph would be but it's pretty close from what I can tell. The lines intersect fairly accurately using Ibis set up figures as a cross reference.

 

Thats awesome. How did you measure wheel travel? And did you do so vertically or distance moved along the actual wheel arc?

 

I actually used the leverage curve graph developed by the guy on the Trail POV video to help me out a bit to save me taking a measurement every 5mm or whatever on the actual bike. I broke it down into smaller intervals on my graph and calculated what the shock shaft travel would be at certain rear wheel travel intervals. I then verified the graph I plotted against the travel on the bike by using measurements I had previously taken while I was servicing the linkages again yesterday using vertical rear wheel travel. I also used the two known measurements that I got from the set up guide and the email I got back from Ibis and it all worked out. In the initial part of the stroke in round figures it roughly works out that whatever your shock shaft travel is in mm if you double it that's about the percentage of rear wheel sag you have. It's not exact but it's very close. Especially considering that the difference between 27.5% and 30% rear wheel sag is less than 4mm of travel at the wheel so going down to the 0. something of a percent is probably not worth worrying about.

 

So I bough my ripmo 4 weeks ago and the DVO fork did not work since day one, took to the place I got the bike and I just called to check the status of the fork, guy from bike shop says they put the work order and they still waiting to hear from DVO. Has anyone else having issues with this fork? How long did take to get fork back. I am lucky I have another fork that I am using while the fork get fix, but I still think waiting for 4 weeks and still no news on the fork is a lot

 

what are the symptoms?

 

The fork was making some noise and it did it returned back to normal from a small bump

 

Hey there, question from a newbie, after a couple hundred miles of riding i figure I should “reset” suspension (check the sag and psi etc). Do you leave the rebound and compression suspension settings in full open or closed when “redo’ing “ sag?
So I plan to turn the compression and rebound setting fully open (or closed? and which way is which?), before i pump some air into the fork n rear suspension? I can follow the rest of the instructions (stand-up method, measuring correct sag which for me would be 30%, then dialing in the rebound and compression to the traction tune suggested numbers) any advice is much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

Hey there, question from a newbie, after a couple hundred miles of riding i figure I should "reset" suspension (check the sag and psi etc). Do you leave the rebound and compression suspension settings in full open or closed when "redo'ing " sag?
So I plan to turn the compression and rebound setting fully open (or closed? and which way is which?), before i pump some air into the fork n rear suspension? I can follow the rest of the instructions (stand-up method, measuring correct sag which for me would be 30%, then dialing in the rebound and compression to the traction tune suggested numbers) any advice is much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

You should set sag with all clickers in the open position. On most brands that is clickers fully anti clockwise. If you are on a DVO fork open is clockwise on the LSC only.

 

Took the Ripmo down to Moab last October and rode Captain Ahab and finally had some time to put together a video.

I would consider myself maybe an average rider, the Ripmo v2 is a new bike to me so hopefully I'll be able to progress and get better at riding chunky type of trails.

 

hey guys i own a ripmo af and picked up a dpx2 take off from a rocky mountain altitude just to give air shocks a jam, anyone know what volume reducer ibis ships out with the dpx2 ? mine currently has the violet purple colour one in it

 

The V2 carbon and AF aren't offered with the DPX2. They come with the Topaz, X2 or Jade. The DPX2 came on the V1 but that frame has a different leverage curve. You might just ask Ibis directly.

 

Anyone come from an Evil Offering that could compare the two? I love how playful and capable the Offering is but im really intrigued by how everyone raves about the climbing ability of the Ripmo. Is the Ripmo really that much better in the pedaling department than the Offering, is the Ripmo anywhere near as fun as the Offering? Really wish you could demo bikes these days!

 

Not personally but have you seen the review below as well as his individual reviews on these and the V2? At that time, he's talking about the V1 Ripmo so you'd have to add in a bit of downhill ability to the Ripmo score. I haven't ridden an Offering but kinda doubt it'd be worth a swap since the Offering is supposedly right up there with the Ripmo, Hightower 2, Switchblade, etc. in the top tier bikes in this category. I'm sure it'd ride differently but swapping just for climbing........ I think you'd have to go for a Ripley to gain enough to really be felt but then you'd lose downhill performance so not worth it.

 

My Onyx is working great on medium and big hits. In general I feel great about where I have it dialed in to with OTT and rebound also. The only thing is it is just a little sticky in the first movement. For example with sag it will hang up sometimes. Once it gets moving it seems fine. It has been like this since the beginning. The stanchions appeared lubed when it was new. Do you guys think this is a case where the oil wasn't added as I've read about a little in the AF thread? I have 200 miles on the bike and have only ridden in mud a couple of times. If I open up the fork at this point would I need new seals etc?

 

No you wouldn't need to do seals. Just a lower service should be all that is required at the moment assuming the bladder on the Onyx isn't burping and sucking in like the bladder in the Diamonds. A lower service is super easy to do and you only need some Slickoleum and some oil for the lowers. Takes no more than about 1/2 an hour tops. It's something that I think should be done semi regularly not necessarily waiting for 50 hrs to pass.

 

Thanks, I appreciate it!

 

Check out this mad but insane video. Incredible scenery too

 

Hey guys, with regards the question above re dvo onyx lowers my recent experience is they are not dry by any means but mine had no more than 15ml in each side. I recently took delivery of my ripmo v2 deore size large in bug zapper blue and dropping the lowers and putting 30ml of fox gold oil in each leg was the first jobs I did. Forks feel awesome which is a relief as I've ran lyriks for the last 4 years and was so stoked on them, especially the ultimate's that I had on my hightower V2. Literally done my first ride on it today and I'm really pleased with it. Upgraded the cassette to xt, shifter to xt, cranks to slx 170mm and rear mech to xtr. I've gone with the 45/10 cassette and med cage mech as I don't require a 51t out back. Also put a 200mm dropper on it which fits a treat and some carbon bars with 40mm rise and 40mm stem. Protection wise I went with a full invisi kit for frame and forks and also refitted the stfu off my santa Cruz. Weighs 14.4kg so pretty stoked on that.

 

Hey guys, with regards the question above re dvo onyx lowers my recent experience is they are not dry by any means but mine had no more than 15ml in each side. I recently took delivery of my ripmo v2 deore size large in bug zapper blue and dropping the lowers and putting 30ml of fox gold oil in each leg was the first jobs I did. Forks feel awesome which is a relief as I've ran lyriks for the last 4 years and was so stoked on them, especially the ultimate's that I had on my hightower V2. Literally done my first ride on it today and I'm really pleased with it. Upgraded the cassette to xt, shifter to xt, cranks to slx 170mm and rear mech to xtr. I've gone with the 45/10 cassette and med cage mech as I don't require a 51t out back. Also put a 200mm dropper on it which fits a treat and some carbon bars with 40mm rise and 40mm stem. Protection wise I went with a full invisi kit for frame and forks and also refitted the stfu off my santa Cruz. Weighs 14.4kg so pretty stoked on that.

Great build, how tall are you?