[bowscalekyre]

Yes the driver can just be pulled off. It might be quite stiff the first time.
I will check my hub for the part number I make sure it's the same. Specialized used those rear hubs on a lot of bikes.

As for bearings. That's a different kettle of fish.

The bottom line is what you are trying to solve.
If you have 12 speed NX then you will have SRAM everything except the driver/freehub/freewheel (I'm not sure why this is so complicated, it's like my niece and nephew calling an android tablet an iPad)

With the HG driver you can have only SRAM NX cassettes, or Shimano 8/9/10/11 speed (but will need a new chain, shifter and derailleur).
If you change the driver to SRAM's XD (like I did) then you can put any of SRAM's cassettes on (just not NX).

Thanks that would be helpful. If you have the PN for the driver it might help me workout what the hub is as well because I can't see anything on mine that looks like a number.

 

[bowscalekyre]

The original question was whether a HG freehub body I gave the link to was correct for my setup.

However I did not quite understand these so called freehub bodies do not have a common interface to the wheel hub. (Still not sure I have the right nomenclature).

 

[bowscalekyre]

So, again, I think you already have an HG on your wheel. Unless it's damaged, I don't see why you need a new one.

Is it your plan to replace the 12 spd NX cassette with a 12 spd Shimano cassette? If so, I think you can already do that. Remove the NX and put the Shimano on it. They both use the same system, AFAIK.

Part of the confusion is that the freehub/hub assembly is in two parts. The "female" part that the spokes are attached to and the "male" part, to which the cassette is attached. All HG freehubs work with NX and Shimano (HG) cassettes, but the difference is in the "rachet "connection between the two parts of the freehub/hub. For example, I have a Torch hub on one bike and a Hydra hub on another. Both take SRAM GX and above (in price) cassettes, but they are not interchangeable in how they interact with the "female" part of the system - the hub - because the rachet mechanisms are different.

Sorry about the weird terminology, but I feel like I'm walking through a rhetorical mine field!

Right, thanks. So I think my issue is I don't know what the wheel side part of the hub is, and probably won't till I pull the cassette off and see what part it is...

My hidden agenda is to see whether the bearings need servicing.

 

[Mudguard]

Thanks that would be helpful. If you have the PN for the driver it might help me workout what the hub is as well because I can't see anything on mine that looks like a number.

This is my wheel. OEM Specialized 29er
Hub is 2030151-1226-D

I think driver part no was in the pic I put up earlier but I'll check

 

[bowscalekyre]

Guys - thanks everyone for your help. I can see this is a confusing topic! I'm going to start a new thread on why the hell I want to inspect the freehub body in the first place. Maybe I am banking up the wrong bush.

 

[bowscalekyre]

This is my wheel. OEM Specialized 29er
Hub is 2030151-1226-D

I think driver part no was in the pic I put up earlier but I'll check

View attachment 2110121

Thanks so much! Now I did see this part number on mine but couldn't find it anywhere online. See below:

 

[bowscalekyre]

You've done this before? Have the extractor and press that you need?

I just watched this video (assuming I have sealed bearings) looks complicated and I have no tools. Think this is beyond my ability right now.

 

[Cleared2land]

Freehub bearings are generally well protected and are not common bearing replacement items. I suspect they are prolly in acceptable condition. YMMV

 

[PuddleDuck]

Freehub bearings are generally well protected and are not common bearing replacement items. I suspect they are prolly in acceptable condition. YMMV

I like your use of caveats (generally, suspect, prolly). Are you a lawyer? Consultant? 😎

 

[bowscalekyre]

Mechanic removed it for me. It's running rough, suspect bearings need servicing.

I'm still struggling to ID it from the part number. Mechanic struggling to find a locknut to service it, may not be viable so I need to ID the part.

 

[127.0.0.1]

regular old shimano

 

[bowscalekyre]

regular old shimano

Any chance you can point me at one online? Would also love to know how to get the locking ring off.

 

[127.0.0.1]

in this pic

A is standard shimano splines you can mount most shimano cassettes on here
(as long as the number of cogs match the system...10 speed)

B is proprietary to Bear Pawls OEM hubs, so you still need to find a specific one to use on your specific hub
though it may be some type of common interface and will work on multiple hubs. Bear Pawls make that hub
specialized sells it and you can buy different ones that will go into the same hub (see link I pasted in post 55 below)

 

[Cleared2land]

What lock ring?

 

[127.0.0.1]

Specialized 3 Pawl Shimano Freehub Body (Steel) (10-Speed) (HFH-0001)
(made by Bear Pawls for specialized)

Bear Pawls Shimano 10-SPD 3 Pawl HFH-0001 Freehub Body
Alternative part codes
HFH-0001
BMB-00412O1A
BEB-51412P1A
S202100004 Specialized New Code
S202100001 Specialized Old Code

Specialized 3 Pawl Shimano Freehub Body (Steel) (10-Speed) (HFH-0001)

Specialized 3 Pawl Shimano Freehub Body Description: This Specialized 3 Pawl Shimano Freehub Body is 10 speed compatible and a replacement part for... S202100004

www.performancebike.com

 

[bowscalekyre]

Specialized 3 Pawl Shimano Freehub Body (Steel) (10-Speed) (HFH-0001)
(made by Bear Pawls for specialized)

Bear Pawls Shimano 10-SPD 3 Pawl HFH-0001 Freehub Body
Alternative part codes
HFH-0001
BMB-00412O1A
BEB-51412P1A
S202100004 Specialized New Code
S202100001 Specialized Old Code

Specialized 3 Pawl Shimano Freehub Body (Steel) (10-Speed) (HFH-0001)

Specialized 3 Pawl Shimano Freehub Body Description: This Specialized 3 Pawl Shimano Freehub Body is 10 speed compatible and a replacement part for... S202100004

www.performancebike.com

Thanks for this, really appreciate it!!

I don't know my freehub from my rear end so this is helpful. Are any of these likely to be more durable than others. I'm conscious I wore this out in almost 1 year exactly but it did get a hell of a wash over winter and I didn't necessarily know what I was doing with degreaser, water repellent etc.

 

[127.0.0.1]

for that hub you won't be able to get 'more durable' pawls and ratchet, it is what it is. a commodity hub

however, the splines are steel and very robust (and heavy)

most splines are aluminum nowadays and those can develop notches
where the cogs cut into the splines by .2 or .5 mm, which makes cassette
removal problematic at times if they snag.

so, you have a very robust spline being steel, but the pawls are sort
of generic and you are stuck with 3 pawls. more robust systems have 4, 5, or 6 pawls.

Freehubs explained: standards, compatibility and how a freehub works | BikeRadar

What is a freehub, how does it work and what are the different types?

www.bikeradar.com

 

[lefthanded]

regular old shimano

This isn't a Shimano part at all.

 

[lefthanded]

View attachment 2110835

Wondering how this ring or whatever it is in front of the RHS bearing got beat up.
Anyways, I'd just replace the bearings, not seeing a need to replace the full body. Some manufacturers consider the freewheel not serviceable, and recommend to not disassemble it. Why, is beyond my knowledge, and I wouldn't and don't care.

It probably mean more profit for them, than if you go and buy high quality bearings elsewhere, instead of their cheap bearings in an complete aluminum body that they sell for $50-$100.

 

[J.B. Weld]

Wondering how this ring or whatever it is in front of the RHS bearing got beat up.
Anyways, I'd just replace the bearings, not seeing a need to replace the full body. Some manufacturers consider the freewheel not serviceable, and recommend to not disassemble it. Why, is beyond my knowledge, and I wouldn't and don't care.

In this case the freehub is probably cost only $20-30 bucks and the bearings alone would cost that much.