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How to guide: Reshim your ABS+ HSC shim stack

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203K views 740 replies 114 participants last post by  half_man_half_scab  
#1 · (Edited)
Seems like there has been a lot of talk on here about Manitous ABS+ damper and how good it is. I have been playing around with the HSC shim stack over the last few months and figured i would make a "how to" guide so others can do the same. It only takes 15-20 minutes and once you get a shim stack set up for your weight, The ABS+ damper is even better!

Use a 2.5mm allen wrench to take the top cap off. Take it off carefully!
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Be careful not to loose the little ball bearings and springs, They are very tiny and easy to loose track of.When you reassemble, it doesnt matter where they springs and bearings go as long as they are across from each other.
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Once the top cap is off, unscrew the damper from the leg and pull it out. Pull is out slowly and you wont loose very much oil. Keep a rag near by because you will loose a little no matter what.
Damper after being pulled out.
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At the very top of the damper, there is a place for a 10mm wrench to hold the damper while you use a 13mm socket to unscrew the nut on the bottom of the piston.

One shim that is used as a check valve and a spring are under the piston. This just allows oil to flow freely back into the leg after the fork is compressed and re-extended. When reassembling, The spring goes back with the wider end toward the piston and the skinnier end toward the nut.
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Close up of bottom of piston
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Close up of top of piston
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Shim stack installed
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My 2010 drake has 6 compression shims stock. 3 the same size, and 3 that get progressively smaller in a pyramid shape. Lighter rider can remove shims to allow the HSC to open with less force, while heavier riders will want to add shims. Endless possibilities for shim configurations, So if you try this, post your weight and shim stack.

Reassemble same way you take it apart. Make sure the LSC is all the way open(counter clockwise) when you put the damper back in the leg. Oil height should be 87mm from the crown when fully assembled. If your careful taking it apart you shouldn't loose a significant amount of oil, but always check to make sure.:thumbsup:

Key points from that this thread has turned up:

1. Thanks to Solitone, we have the Manitou ABS+ tuning guide which includes dyno charts and many different shim stack combinations. Its probably the single best find this thread has produced (thanks Solitone)

This link should work:
https://goo.gl/JaqWO

2. Spring rate needs to be set up correctly. I get PM's and hear of people trying to get their fork to feel right when it is way under/over sprung. Spring rate trumps damping and should always be set up correctly prior to trying different shim stack configurations.

3. A good place to order shims is MX tech.
MX-Tech Suspensions
 
#169 ·
Help with ABS+ installation

Hey all, slightly off topic but I just installed the ABS+ damper in my 2007 R7 super 100 TPC. Everything went fine until I tried to tighten the compression rod fixing bolt to the suggested 45-55 inch lbs....the bolt just keeps turning and I can't get it tight enough. I guess the compression rod is spinning around inside the leg? Any guidance? Thanks!
 
#170 ·
Hey all, slightly off topic but I just installed the ABS+ damper in my 2007 R7 super 100 TPC. Everything went fine until I tried to tighten the compression rod fixing bolt to the suggested 45-55 inch lbs....the bolt just keeps turning and I can't get it tight enough. I guess the compression rod is spinning around inside the leg? Any guidance? Thanks!
Try adding air to the air spring then finish tightening the bolt. Might just need a little resistance to finish it off.
 
#175 ·
Fixed, thanks

Thanks guys, I just rode it around for a few minutes and was then able to tighten it up to the correct torque. Good suggestion One Pivot. It's not that big of a deal to take it apart again and clean the threads, but I was glad I did not have to go to that effort again.

Obviously I haven't gone on any real rides yet, but the new damper seems to be doing what it claims...more plush in the first 2 inches of travel and more stiff upon deeper compression. Hopefully this will limit the substantial brake dive I experienced with the original damper.
 
#177 ·
I have just got the ABS+ damper to replace the 2008 absolute one

But I'm confused about the oil
for my 130mm MRD The manitou service manual says 125mm, but in the instructions that comes with the new damper says 110mm
may be ABS+ needs less oil?
which is the correct one?

thanks
 
#184 ·
That's exactly the first difference I appreciated with absolute
But I had a problem when installing Abs+
When trying to insert the damper it was too hard (it came in locked position from factory!) and pulling it out made the long cylinder inside the leg to go out with it
So now I don't know if the oil must be only inside that cylinder once mounted again, or also around it
Quantity would be very different

Do you know how it is?
 
#185 ·
STS,
seems like you've got an MRD fork. The long cylinder (damper tube) should contain all the damping oil, and no oil is supposed to be in the space between stanchion walls and the damper tube. This is how weight loss is achieved with Minute/R7 (and I guess also Marvel Pro now) MRD style dampers.

You will have to disassemble the fork to get the tube back in place (this is best done with rebound assembly unscrewed from stanchion).
 
#192 ·
Hey guys, I am having a bit of an issue with my new Minute Pro. I weigh about 185 with the stock spring installed. Even with 110 psi, the fork blows through its travel too easily. It will bottom if I open the Absolute+ dial and bounce on the front end of the bike. The sag is just about right. Will the firm spring be what I'm looking for, or is that only for sag? There is little midstroke support, and it bottoms easily even with full compression Thoughts?
 
#198 ·
This thread has gotten much bigger then I would have ever thought. I wanted to edit my post to add some of the great info that this thread has brought up, but for some reason I cant. I figured this is the best way to get the information towards the beginning of the thread to keep people from looking through the whole thing.

The most important things are:

1. Thanks to Solitone, we have the Manitou ABS+ tuning guide which includes dyno charts and many different shim stack combinations. Its probably the single best find this thread has produced (thanks Solitone)

This link should work:
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B-s...M2ZGFlNGUwZGQw

2. Spring rate needs to be set up correctly. I get PM's and hear of people trying to get their fork to feel right when it is way under/over sprung. Spring rate trumps damping and should always be set up correctly prior to trying different shim stack configurations.

3. A good place to order shims is MX tech.
MX-Tech Suspensions

Im sure there is more that I should add to this list, but I am out of time. If anyone thinks of anything else, feel free to post it up.:thumbsup: