My 2010 drake has 6 compression shims stock. 3 the same size, and 3 that get progressively smaller in a pyramid shape. Lighter rider can remove shims to allow the HSC to open with less force, while heavier riders will want to add shims. Endless possibilities for shim configurations, So if you try this, post your weight and shim stack.

Very interesting thread--I suscribed to it.

Just wondering what configuration you tried was the best for your weight? The standard configuration from Manitou, or a custom one where you removed or added shims?

I remember from another post of yours that you weigh like me, so it'd be a good starting point for me.

 

Dougal

I have 2005 manitou Nixon super, air sprung with TPC+. I'm over 300lbs and want to tune this fork for cross country and all mountain. I do not get off the ground much but want better control from my Nixon. Right now I'm running 7.5 weight oil and have the max level in the fork. What suggestions do have to control diving and to keep the fork riding higher in it travel. I am willing to try re-shimming the fork but need some expert advice before I dig in.

 

Dougal

I have 2005 manitou Nixon super, air sprung with TPC+. I'm over 300lbs and want to tune this fork for cross country and all mountain. I do not get off the ground much but want better control from my Nixon. Right now I'm running 7.5 weight oil and have the max level in the fork. What suggestions do have to control diving and to keep the fork riding higher in it travel. I am willing to try re-shimming the fork but need some expert advice before I dig in.

I would start by doubling the shims that are in the compression damper. Simply double them up and go from there. Presuming your air-spring pressure is okay, there is also a short coil spring under the air spring which should be upgraded to a stiffer one.

The rebound will probably be okay as most find the stock range too slow, see how that end goes.

 

For outdoor riding, I remove one of the big shims and its close to what I am looking for. I have been experimenting with a two stage stack, But havent found the perfect set up yet. I need to order more shims to give myself more options.

 

For outdoor riding,

Is there any other type of riding?

 

Dougal,

Thanks. I have 2 stiff ride kits already. Do you have any info on the shim size? Should I move to a thicker shim or just double up?

 

Dougal,

Thanks. I have 2 stiff ride kits already. Do you have any info on the shim size? Should I move to a thicker shim or just double up?

It is better to double up the shims. Thicker shims cannot flex as far without bending and eventually breaking.

 

Is there any other type of riding?

Where I live, There is Rays MTB which is indoor mountain bike park for the winter. I was running a different set up there because there isnt much for small bumps. I was running my fork almost locked out with a weak shim stack to allow for it to blow off on the medium sized hits without a really harsh spike. Not much for big hits there, so the weak shim stack didnt give any problems with harsh bottom outs. I forgot about it and took it for my first outdoor ride of the year last week and had some problems :lol:

 

Manutou's ABS+ tuning guide

I recently wrote to Manitou to ask the difference between the trail tuned ABS+ of Minute forks and the standard XC ABS+ of R7 forks.

They sent me a useful document that explains the different configurations (XC, trail, linear) and how to tune the ABS+ damping system. It has lots of interesting graphs and drawings.

This document isn't in their website, but they told me I can publish it. It is very informative and I think it could be helpful. You can find it here: ABS+ Tuning REV 3-10-2011.pdf

 

Great find, thanks.

 

Awesome link!

 

That is a fantastic link and really useful information for anybody that has a Manitou fork.

 

Suspension Damping

For those like me who don't have a deep knowledge of suspension damping, here's an article that gives a good brief introduction.

It refers to motorbike suspensions, hence velocity figures used in the examples are higher than those experienced by MTB suspensions. Nevertheless the basic principles are the same.

It explains the difference between low and high speed damping, as well as the meaning of damping curves, so it helps understand the damping curves in Manitou's document I posted before.

 

ABS+ Tuning REV 3-10-2011.pdf

Score!!!

 

Thanks for posting that up, solitone, great doc!

P

 

For those like me who don't have a deep knowledge of suspension damping, here's an article that gives a good brief introduction.

It refers to motorbike suspensions, hence velocity figures used in the examples are higher than those experienced by MTB suspensions. Nevertheless the basic principles are the same.

It explains the difference between low and high speed damping, as well as the meaning of damping curves, so it helps understand the damping curves in Manitou's document I posted before.

link is not to article, but to the main page, which doesn't have the article
could you double check

 

I tuned mine a long time ago.. from what I remember, even at 200lbs I ended up pulling out all but one of the big shims. Mine had a ton of shims in it and it rode like a brick! I think they wanted a simulated platform.

Dont forget about very nice shimmed rebound damper! IMO, rebound tuning is really what turns a good fork, into a fantastic fork. Theres tons of control in getting your HSR really dialed.. nice and fast HSR stops pack up, and slow LSR gives control.

Sadly, I had to give up on ABS+ I had a fork that technically shouldnt exist, an IT abs+ minute. The IT needs the spv pressure to have a normal spring rate.

 

I tuned mine a long time ago.. from what I remember, even at 200lbs I ended up pulling out all but one of the big shims. Mine had a ton of shims in it and it rode like a brick! I think they wanted a simulated platform.

Dont forget about very nice shimmed rebound damper! IMO, rebound tuning is really what turns a good fork, into a fantastic fork. Theres tons of control in getting your HSR really dialed.. nice and fast HSR stops pack up, and slow LSR gives control.

Sadly, I had to give up on ABS+ I had a fork that technically shouldnt exist, an IT abs+ minute. The IT needs the spv pressure to have a normal spring rate.

I don't think that is true. Manitou made a Minute 140 IT with ABS. Not very common but they made it.

 

The fork sagged excessively. Running enough pressure to keep it in the top of the travel like it should would make using all the travel impossible. It wasnt the platform either, as I had gutted the ball assembly. It was effectively a 130mm fork with abs+. With IT, I had it at about 145mm.

Manitous cs told me making an abs IT minute would be impossible.. its obviously not, but something funny happens with the IT spring. If theres a factory IT ABS fork, they might have retuned the negative chamber or something.

 

Thanks for the link! Much appreciated

 

link is not to article, but to the main page, which doesn't have the article
could you double check

That's strange. I've just hit the link and it opens the article--not the main page as you say. Its titile is Technicalities: Suspension Damping, and it is in the section Home»Motorcycle Tech Tips.

 

I recently wrote to Manitou to ask the difference between the trail tuned ABS+ of Minute forks and the standard XC ABS+ of R7 forks.

They sent me a useful document that explains the different configurations (XC, trail, linear) and how to tune the ABS+ damping system. It has lots of interesting graphs and drawings.

This document isn't in their website, but they told me I can publish it. It is very informative and I think it could be helpful. You can find it here: ABS+ Tuning REV 3-10-2011.pdf

Whats odd about the link is that my stock shim stack is not listed IMO, One of the best links posted on this site.:thumbsup:

 

I'm actually curious which fork gets which stack-configuration...

Is manitou planning on offering a shimpack/tuning kit?

 

The fork sagged excessively. Running enough pressure to keep it in the top of the travel like it should would make using all the travel impossible. It wasnt the platform either, as I had gutted the ball assembly. It was effectively a 130mm fork with abs+. With IT, I had it at about 145mm.

Manitous cs told me making an abs IT minute would be impossible.. its obviously not, but something funny happens with the IT spring. If theres a factory IT ABS fork, they might have retuned the negative chamber or something.

That is interesting. I have a 160 Nixon IT that originally came with an intrinsic damper. Worked great but wanted to try TPC+ (as I had it before in my X-vert super and loved it!). While it works well, I can't help but think that the intrinsic, with it strong bottom out control and progressive nature worked better with the IT system.

 

I'm actually curious which fork gets which stack-configuration...

I'm not sure, but I think it should be like this:

- Production XC Stack: Marvel, R7, Tower, Match;
- Production Trial Stack: Minute;
- Production Jump Stack: Circus.

I would have said that Tower had the same stack as Minute (being the same fork as Minute but for 29er), however Manitou's webpage doesn't specify trail tuning.

Is manitou planning on offering a shimpack/tuning kit?

They told me that the document comes with Manitou's new tuning kit they are selling. So yes, I think there is already a tuning kit on offer.

 

I'm not sure, but I think it should be like this:

- Production XC Stack: Marvel, R7, Tower, Match;
- Production Trial Stack: Minute;
- Production Jump Stack: Circus.

I would have said that Tower had the same stack as Minute (being the same fork as Minute but for 29er), however Manitou's webpage doesn't specify trail tuning.

Finally pulled the HSC stack from my 2011 Minute Expert to see what shim stack i have. Turns out it came stock with the XC stack, not the Trail stack.
I had a total of 2 shims on top of the piston (diff than the OP) & the normal 1 below like the OP.
Just thought i'd share. i'll be calling Manitou to see what i can do about ordering some more shims to play with.

Oh and it looks like Manitou switched the piston (HSC) from an anodized alum to red plastic....not a big deal, but my 2011 is definetly diff than the OP.

sent from my hand-held computer