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How often to add tubeless sealant? (newb questions!)

30K views 18 replies 13 participants last post by  ghort5  
#1 ·
So I recently converted both of my bikes to tubeless - my FS Stumpjumper FSR with Forte Xenduro rims using the Gorilla tape ghetto method (AC stems, no rim strips) and my HT Giant 29er with DT Swiss wheels using DT's conversion kit.

I am wondering a few things - first, as the title says, how often, roughly, should I need to add sealant to the tires? I realize this likely relates to how often I ride, if I puncture tires, etc, but I am just looking for a ballpark here. Also, will I need to add the entire volume of sealant again, or is it a lesser dose?

I ask because out of curiosity, I took my front wheels off this week to check and see if the "liquid" sound was still present when I shake - it was on the FS bike, but not the 29er and I am wondering if this means I need to add more sealant?

Second newb question - how much pressure loss is expected or acceptable for a tubeless setup. I ride an average of 1-2 times a week (usually split time between both bikes). I notice that over the course of a week or two, both bikes will lose around 10-15 PSI. Not a big deal - I re-inflate, the tires hold air well and I'm off...

Any help would be great!

Thanks.
 
#3 ·
Thanks. Good info to know. Regarding the lack of liquid sound when I shake the tire - I guess I was under the assumption I should always have some liquid sealant sloshing around, and if not, then it was time to refill. Just trying to confirm this or get some recommendations.

I'm not sure if the sealant got "used up" because it was the first mounting/sealing of the tires or not.
 
#4 ·
http://www.notubes.com/FAQ.aspx

How long will the sealant last in my tire?

The sealant should last anywhere from 2-6 months or longer. However, there are many factors that the time will depend on: temperatures in your area, weather and humidity conditions, how often you ride, where you store your bike (cooler is better), tire casing thickness, number of punctures the sealant has already sealed that you never knew you had, etc. One quart will seal approximately 16 tires and one pint will seal approximately 8 tires.
 
#7 ·
Sorry, if this is a threadjack but I cant start my own thread yet. When refilling a tubeless with stans sealant do you have any trouble getting the bead to seal back? I was told that having an air compressor would help but wanted to know what others do because I dont want to buy a compressor unless really needed.
 
#8 ·
Not really a hijack, but you are resurrecting a thread that's almost a year old! Not a big deal though. :D

Anyway, it all depends on what valves you are using. The valves in Stans strips and most other tubeless presta valves have a removable core. So check yours, there will be small flats on the valve body just below the nut on the top of the valve. If that's the case get yourself a 2oz syringe and a piece of rubber tubing that fits snug over the valve and also the end of the syringe, remove the valve core, load the syringe and simply inject fresh sealant into the tire. Or you could just get a Stans Syringe, Universal Cycles -- Stans Injection Syringe . Not cheap, but easier than finding the bits yourself.

If you are using a set up with a Schrader valve, like a split tube set up then just remove the valve core and inject the sealant. Valve core removal tools are available at most auto stores.

No need to unseat the bead in either case.

If none of the above apply, and you have to unseat the bead, then you may or may not need a compressor. All you can do is try. Once a tire has been set up tubeless sometimes the bead will re-seat easily with a good floor pump. Sometimes it won't. Like I said, all you can do is try it and see.

Good Dirt
 
#13 ·
No worries man! Your keeping it on topic which is cool. I never went the syringe route myself, always just popped the bead. It really depends on your tire/rim/pump setup. Some pumps are better than others and can get the bead to seat easily. I've used a buddy to put pressure on the tire in the spots where bubbles pop up when trying to air up with a hand pump before. Just have to pump like crazy and shout out orders and hope he's good at following directions! I always recommend using soapy water to lubricate the bead, makes it way easier to see where air is coming out and get things lined up easier. Load up a spray bottle with some dish soap and water and hose it down, 409 or Simple Green in spray bottles work too. Worst case scenario get a schrader valve screw on adapter (costs a few bucks for one at your LBS) and some spare quarters and get to the closest gas station with an air pump. Most of those will get you way more psi than a hand pump and you'll have your hands free to apply pressure at those trouble spots.
 
#10 ·
Just curious, when the sealant "dries-out", what is its consistency? Is it a solid like caulk or gelatinous? Is this "dried-out" sealant useless for puncture sealing or is it somewhat "self-annealing" and therefore functional? If its totally useless, shouldn't it be removed before adding more sealant?

Just thinking aloud . . .
 
#15 ·
I pulled a tire off not too long ago that was close to a year & a half old. I was surprised to find some of the Stan's was still liquid- I had not put any new in for probably 6 months. I'm in TX & last summer was BRUTAL. Alot of the old Stan's was like wet moss on the inside. I tried to clean it out to keep as a backup but it was too tedious.