Congrats - I like my 2018 X2. Off the shelf (what Ibis said they shipped with their HD3's) valving has me running 0 HSC and a few clicks up on the LSC. Really like the easy to reach but firm holding lever to dial in some HSC when needed.

 

If any other HD3 owners are interested in upgrading to the X2 shock, I've got a brand new, never mounted 2018 Fox Float X2 shock with climb switch for sale in the classifieds for $400.

2018 Fox X2 shock with climb switch - MTBR Classifieds

 

What are you running instead and why?

 

I'm still running the stock Fox DPS. I never mounted the X2 because the more I read about it, the more convinced I became that I was too heavy for that shock. I weigh about 250 lbs geared up.

 

I read about that. The one I got came with the new 300PSI sleeve. Wonder if you could talk Fox into giving you one, especially if they were still rated for 300PSI when you got it.

If the DPS is treating you well, it may not matter.

 

I've got a question for you: I just serviced my Fox DPS shock yesterday, and once again I had a terrible time trying to remove my shock and reinstalling it. I scratched up the paint around the swing arm where the clevis attaches. I don't understand how you are supposed to remove the clevis without scratching the paint. I'm not strong enough to pull the clevis apart, so I use force to pull the arms of the clevis upward which scratches the paint.

I also lost the o-ring which goes around the yellow sleeve where the stepped bolt fits into the clevis. I assume that everyone will lose that o-ring because it's not obvious that the o-ring is there in the first place. Hmmm...I think I ordered a bushing kit from Ibis when I built up my frame. I assumed the bushing kit was for the top end of the Fox DPS shock, but now that I read the description I think the bushing kit is for the clevis to swing arm attachment, so I should have a spare o-ring. That leaves me wondering: what bushing do we need for the top end of the shock? Okay, I found it: Fox Shock Reducer Hardware - Ibis Cycles Online Store. I don't know which bushing kit I ordered--I'll have to check.

Edit: I've got the bushing kit for the clevis to swing arm attachment, so I've got 4 spare o-rings.

 

I don't remove the clevis. I support the bike in my stand to keep the suspension extended. I remove the front mounting bolt and drop the shock down in the front. I then remove the shock mounting bolt in the clevis and slide the shock forward and remove it. Never bang anything up.

 

Here's some pictures in case they help.

I loosen the shock bolt in the clevis before actually removing the front bolt.

Once the front bolt is out and you lower the shock, there is room to remove the top rear mounting bolt. You can then remove the shock either forward or pivot to the side a bit and remove.

To install, I put the top rear bolt in while the shock is still down. Then lift the front mount into the frame and insert the front bolt.

There is room under the clevis for the torque wrench.

 

I remove the front mounting bolt and drop the shock down in the front.

I tried that but I could not get the top of the shock to drop down. The edge of the carbon where the shock mounts to the frame nestles into an indentation in the top of my Fox DPS shock.

Then I removed the lower shock mount bolt to see if I could find a little wiggle room, but no luck. So, I unscrewed the clevis to swing arm bolts, and while wrestling with the clevis my shock fell down onto my chainring and got nicked. So, yeah, a complete disaster.

On my previous SC Blur LT2 I just had to unscrew the two shock mount bolts, which were both like the upper shock mount on the HD3, and the shock came out. Super easy.

 

When I bought my frame it had a DPS, kind of remember that. I let the air out so I could pull it back and drop it.

 

I let the air out so I could pull it back and drop it.

I always let the air out of my shock when I'm working on it--320 psi seems pretty dangerous, and next time I'll try pulling on the top of the shock to compress it. My shock still has a decent amount of resistance in it when all the air is out, so I don't know if that will work, but thanks for the tip!

 

I had trouble getting my clevis off and nicked the paint also. The clevis bushings were super tight. I’m on my fourth shock — a DB Air (not inline) which works well when I have the sag set right.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk